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A 



C'r'< 



ALICE 



GRAND DUCHESSOF HESSE 



PRINCESS 



GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH AND LETTERS 



NEW YORK: 
GEORGE MUNKO, PUBLISHER, 

17 TO 87 Vandewater Street. 



> 



>\ ^\^ 



DEDICATED 

TO 

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS 
THE HEREDITARY GRAND DUKE 

AND TO 

THEIR GRAND DUCAL HIGHNESSES 

THE PRINCESSES 

VICTORIA, ELIZABETH, IRl&NE, ALIX 

OF HESSE AND BY RHINE 



TBS LIBRARY! 

•7 CONGRESS I 

NH^SHINGTON I 



PEEF ACE. 



The great affection with which, my dear Sister has ever been 
regarded in this country, and tlie universal feeling of sympathy 
shown at the time of her death, lead me to hope that the publication 
of this volume miy not be unwelcome, containing as it does extracts 
from her Letters to my Mother, together with aTbrief record of her 
married life. 

The short Memoir here translated from the German, with which 
the letters are interwoven, was written, as will be seen at a glance, 
not as presenting anything like a complete picture of my Sister's char- 
acter and opinions, but merely as a narrative of such of the incidents 
of her life as were necessary to illustrate and explain the letters 
themselves. 

In these days, when the custom has become general of publishing 
biographies of all persons of note or distinction, it was thought ad- 
visable, in order that a true picture might be given of my Sister, that 
a short sketch of her life should be prepared by some one who was 
personally known to her, and who appreciated the many beautiful 
features of her character. The choice fell upon a clergyman at 
Darmstadt, Dr. Sell. 

It would have been premature and out of place to attempt any- 
thing like a complete picture of a character so many-sided, or of my 
Sister's opinions on the aftairs of Europe, in which she took the 
deepest interest, and on which she formed opinions remarkable for 
breadth and sagacity of view. The domestic side of her nature might 
alone for the present be freely dealt with; and to help Dr. Sell in 
delineating this, my Mother selected for his guidance the extracts 
from my Sister's letters to her which appear in the present volume. 
There was no thought at first of making these extracts public, but 
they were found to be so beautiful, and to be so true, an expression 
of what my Sister really was, that, in compliance with the request 
of the Grand J)uke her husband, they were allowed to be translated 
and published, so that her subjects might see in them how great 
reason they had to love her whom they had lost. 

The letters in their original form are here given to the English 
public, and I am sure that all who read them wUl feel thankful to 
my Mother for thus granting them a closer insight into my dear 
Sister's beautiful and unselfish life. 

They will see in them also, with satisfaction, how devoted she was 
to the land of her birth — how her heart ever turned to it with rever- 
erice and affection as the country which had done and was doing for 
Liberty and the advancement of mankind more than any other couu- 



IT PKEFACE. 

try in the world. How deep was her feeling in this respect was tes- 
tified by a request, which she made to her husband in anticipation 
of her death, that an English flag might be laid upon her cofiin; ac- 
companying the wish with a modest expression of a hope, that no 
one in the land of her adoption could take umbrage at her desire to 
be borne to her rest with the old English colors above her. - 

In any case 1 feel confident that the perusal of these letters must 
deepen the love and admiration which has always been felt for my 
beloved Sister in this country, where she ever thanked God that her 
childhood and youth had been tended with a wise love, that had 
foste^'ed and developed all those qualities and tastes which she most 
valued and strove to cultivate in her later years. 

1 had written these words, when another beloved member of our 
family, whose name often recurs in my Bister's letters, was suddenly 
taken from us, and from our country. Writing of my dear Brother 
to my Mother (February 1, 1868), she said, "May God spare that 
young bright and gifted life to be a comfort to you for many a year 
to come!" That life, which then hung trembling in the balance, 
was mercifully spared, not indeed for many a year, but long enough 
to make my Brother more beloved by his family and friends, and to 
enable him to give to his country some token of the good gifts with 
whicn he was endowed. As he was the last of us to see my dear 
Sister in life, so he has been the first to follow her into the Silent 
Land. 

^ HELENA. 

Cumberland Lodge : 
15th April, 1884. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 



CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 

1843-1862. 

" I ever look back to my childhood and girlhood as the happiest time of my 
life." (13</i Jime, 1869.) 

Princess Alice, as she is ever called in England, was born at 
Buckingham Palace on the Both of April. 1843. She was the third 
child and second daughter of Queen Victoria and Albert, Prince 
Consort. At her christening, which took place at the Palace ou the 
2nd of June, she received the names of Alice Maud Mary. Princess 
Sophia Matilda of Gloucester, niece of King George 111., and sister- 
in-law to the Duchess of Gloucester, was one of her godmothers, and 
her Royal parents chose the name of Maud, which is the same as 
Matilda, on account of its being an old English name borne by the 
Empress Maud, and other British princesses. The name of " Mary " 
was chosen because the little Princess was born on the Duchess of 
Gloucester's birthday. 

The Archbishop of Canterbury officiated at the christening. The 
sponsore were: the reigning King of Hanover, Ernest Augustus; the 
Hereditary Prince of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha; Princess Sophia Ma- 
tilda of Gloucester, sister-in-law xo the Duchess of Gloucester, niece 
of George III. ; and Feodora, Princess of Hohenlohe-Langenburg, 
half- sister of the Queen. 

The christening was, as the Queen hei-self told her uncle, the 
King of the Belgians, when writing to him on the 6th of June, " a 
very imposing ceremony. Nothing could have gone ofi better, and 
little Alice behaved extremely well."* 

Though twenty-two years only have passed since the wholly un- 
expected death of Prince Albert deprived the Queen of her devoted 
husband, the Royal children of a most loviiig and beloved father, 
and the whole nation of one of its wisest counsellors, his life, in the 
admirable biographical memorial by Sir Theodore Martin, forms al- 
ready part of history, and by it we are enabled to form a just esti- 
mate of the perfect character and great intellectual abilities of the 
Prince, whom his daughter, Princess Alice, revered through life as 
hei highest ideal. 

Prince Albert, the second son of the then reigning Duke of Co- 
burg, was the very picture of manly chivalrous beauty. He was 
very young, not yet twenty-one years old, when he became the Con- 

* Life of the Prince Consort, by Sir Theodore Martin, vol. i. p. 166. 



6 ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

sort of the Queen of Eagland, wlao was only (hree months older. 
Bat by his strength of character and rare energy of intellect, com-* 
bined with a thorough self-control and an unswerving devotion to 
the duties of his position, he succeeded in gaining the love and es- 
teem of a nation which, though it keeps watch over its rights and 
privileges with peculiar jealousy, knows also how to show great gen- 
erosity, when once it has learnt to trust and to love. 

With his wonderful power of mastering new and difficult subjects 
he made himself familiar with the history and pulicy, the so- 
cial and agricultural conditions, the industries and commercial lela- 
tions of his adopted country. In his position of intimate confiden- 
tial adviser to the Sovereign he showed the greatest tact, and gained 
the affection and respect of the Ministers, who succeeded one another 
at the head of affairs ; whilst the more he became known the more 
his genuine worth was appreciated by the nation at large. 

Chief of all, two nations have acknowledged with grateful admira- 
tion, that under his influence there grew up in the midst of the 
most brilliant Court in Europe a domestic family life, so perfect in 
its purity and charm that it might well serve for a bright example to 
every home in the land. Whilst sharing with the Sovereign all the 
labors and the cares of state, the Prince made suitable changes and 
practical arrangements in the Royal Household, and, by steadily ad- 
hering to principles which he had once recognized as the best, he 
succeeded in making life happy and peaceful to all around him. 
Thus it was that the Royal Family of England, whether residing in 
the splendid palaces at Windsor, in London, or at Osborne, the love- 
ly country seat in the Isle of Wight, or at Balmoral, surrounded by 
the sterner scenery of the Scotch Highlands, was enabled to enjoy a 
life of perfect tranquillity amidst the political tempests of the most 
turbulent decade of our times. 

The childhood of the Princess Alice was a very happy one, and 
much favored by circumstances. When she was a year old, her fa- 
ther mentioned her as "the beauty of the family, " and as an ex- 
tremely good and merry child. Her mother adds, " She was a very 
vain little person. ' ' 

She developed naturally. At first she was not thought to be so 
highly gifted as later years proved her to be. Her father often used 
to speak of her as " poor dear little Alice," as if he had to take her 
part. She soon became a great favorite with all around her. Lady 
Lyttleton, who up to 1851 was intrusted with the supervision of the 
I Royal children, and to whose pen we owe so many accounts of that 
] happy family life, writes as follows on the little Princess's fourth 
birthday: — 

"Dear Princess Alice is too pretty, in her low frock and pearl 
necklace, tripping about and blushing and smiling at her honors. 
The whole family, indeed, appear to advantage on birthdays; no 
tradesman or country squire can keep one with such hearty simple 
affection and enjoyment. 07ie present 1 think we shall all wish to 
live f urthei oft': a live lamb, all over pink ribbons and bells. He is 
already the greatest pet, as one may suppose. 

" Princess Alice's pet lamb is the cause of many tears. He will 
not take to his mistress, but runs away lustily, and will soon butt at 



ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 7 

her, though she is most coaxy, aud said to hiin in her sweetest tones, 
after kissing tiis nose often, ' Milly, dear Milly! do you like me?' " 

One of the main principles observed in the education of the Royal 
children was this — that though they received the best training of 
body and mind, to fit them for the high position they would event- 
ually have to fill, they should in no wise come in contact with the 
actual Court life. The children were scarcely known to the Queen's 
ladies-in-waiting, as they only now and then made their appearance 
foi a moment after dinner at dessert, or accompanied their parents 
out driving. The care of them was exclusively intrusted to persons 
who possessed the Queen and Prince Consort's entire confidence, and 
with whom they could at all times communicate direct. The Roj^al 
parents kept themselves thoroughly informed of the minutest detail 
of what was being done for theu- children in the way cf training and 
instruction. 

After the first years of childhood were past, the Eoyal children 
were placed under the care of English, French, and German 
governesses, who, again, were under a Lady Superintendent, and 
accompanied the children in their walks and watched over them 
during their games. 

To the lessons in foreign languages music and drawing were soon 
added.for which the young Princess showed a decided talent.* ' ' Her 
copybooks were always neatness itself, and she wrote a very pretty 
hand." "Fresh, blooming, and healthy, escaping most of the ill- 
nesses of childhood, cheerful, merry, full of fun and mischief," she 
delighted in all bodily exercises, such as gymnastics, skating, &c. 
Above all, she was passionately fond of riding and of horses. She 
preferred playing with her brothers, and was bold and fearless as a 
boy. With all this, however, she soon showed proofs of real kind- 
ness of heart and of tender consideration for others. " 1 remember 
well," a former dresser of the Queen's relates, " meeting the Royal 
children playing in the corridor, and, as 1 passed on, the Prince of 
Wales making a joke about my great height, the Princess said to 
her brothers, but bo that I should hear it: 'It is very nice to be 
tall ; Papa would like us all to be tall. ' " " Her kindness of 
heart showed itself in all her actions when a child. When- 
ever she in the least suspected that anybody's feelings had been 
hurt, she always tried to make things smooth again." " At Christ- 
mastime she was most anxious to give pleasure to everybody, and 
bought presents for each with her own pocket-money. She once 
gave me a little pin -cushion, and on another occasion a basket, 
and wrote on a little card with a colored border (always in German 
for me), ' For dear Frida [now Madame Miiller], from Alice,' 
and brought it me herself on Christmas Eve. 1 felt that she had 
thought how much 1 must have missed my home that day." 

The first journeys on which she, with her elder sister and brother, 
was allowed to accompany her parents are vividly described in the 
Queen's Journal. They were those to Ireland, in 1849, and, in 1850, 
to the Highlands; and to the beauty and grandeur of Highland 
scenery she remained through life an enthusiastic devotee. 

* The memoranda in this paragraph are communicated by the Crown Prin- 
cess of Germany. 



8 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Her intellectual faculties and (lie deeper qualities of her character 
did not in her case, as, indeed, generally happens with high-spirited 
health}^ children, develop very early ; but almost from the first she 
showed those qualities of disposition which win all hearts and lend 
a charm to daily life. 

Little theatrical pieces performed by the Royal children on festive 
anniversaries in the family — partly, too, with a view of gaining 
facility in foreign languages — were the field in which the young 
Princess decidedly distinguished herself. No child ever performed 
the part of the High Priest Joad in Racine's Athalie with more dig- 
nity, and with a more pleasing intonation; and a more delightful 
German Red Ridinghood* than the Princess never appeared upon 
the stage. 

Of one of these performances, given in honor of the Queen and 
Prince's wedding-day in 1854, Baroness Bunsen gives the following 
description in her biography of Baron Bunsen. A tableau represent- 
ing the Four Seasons had been studied and contrived by the Royal 
children. " First appeared Princess Alice as the Spring, scattering 
flowers, and reciting verses, which were taken from Thomson's 
Seasons ; she moved gracefully, and spoke in a distinct and pleas- 
ing manner with excellent modulation, and a tone of voice sweet 
and penetrating like that of the Queen, "f 

It was during these years that Princess Alice formed her warm 
friendship for the Princess Louise of Prussia, now Grand Duchess 
of Baden, who records her first impressions of the young Princess 
in the following words : — 

"She was at that time most graceful in appearance— charming, 
merry and amiable; and though always occupying a subordinate 
place to her very gifted and distinguished sister, there never was the 
least semblance of a disagreement. Alice's cheerful disposition and 
her great power of observation showed themselves very early in the 
pleasantest manner, and she had a remarkable gift of making herself 
attractive to others. Her individuality was less decided and promi- 
nent than that of her sister, and she had a special charm of childhood 
grace. Our walks and drives together, the life in the schoolroom, 
the games in the corridors, or in dear old Baron Stockmar's room — 
these and all the pleasure and enjoyment of being together with the 
two sisters will ever remain amongst the happiest and most lasting 
of my recollections." 

The opening of the First Great Exhibition in 1851 — Prince Albert's 
own creation — was the occasion of a visit of the Prince of Prussia 
(the present Emperor of Germany) and his family to the English 
Court. This visit was repeated in 1853. Meanwhile an active cor- 
respondence had sprung up between the young friends, in which 
Princess Alice took a most active part. 

" Alice was now drawn moi'e into the circle of the grown-up mem- 
bers of the family ; but, in spite of this, she retained all the fascina- 
tion of her charming graceful ways. A great vein of humor showed 
itself in her, as well as a certain sharpness in criticising people who 

* In a little piece of that name by Madame Jonas. 
t Bunsen's it/e, ii. 328. 



ALICE, GSAXD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 9 

were not congenial to her. Many a little conflict took place in the 
schoolroom; but while the individualities of the sisters became more 
and more distinct, their happy relations to one another remained im- 
changed. She was a great favorite with her brothers and sisters, 
though thej' knew she was fond of mischief. 

" To a naturally engaging manner quite exceptional joyousness 
and power of showing affectionate emotion imparted an especial 
charm, which revealed itself in the fine lines of her face, in her 
graceful movements and a certain inborn nobleness and dignity. 
Her attachment to my parents, ' Uncle Prussia ' and ' Aunt Prussia ' 
was truly touching." 

In 1855 Princess Alice had her first serious illness — scarlet fever — 
caught from her younger sister. Princess Louise. She recovered 
easily, but for some time afterward a certain delicacy was observa- 
ble. The accounts at that time are unanimous in describing the 
peculiarly sweet development of her disposition, and the manifes- 
tation of a true womanly interest in the works of charity and mercy. 
The feeling of acting independently for the good of others had been 
aroused many ways in the Royal children. The Swiss Cottage at 
Osborne, in like manner, with its museum, kitchen, store-room and 
little gardens, was made the means of learning how to do household 
work, and to direct the management of a small establishment. 

The parents were invited there as guests, to partake of the dishes 
which the Princesses themselves had prepared ; and there, too, each 
child was allowed to choose its own occupation, and to enjoy per- 
fect liberty. 

The life in the Highlands, free from the restraint of Court life, 
brought the Royal children into closer contact with the humbler 
classes, and called into plaj^ their sympathies for the poor. 

They were permitted to visit the humblest cottages — nay, even en- 
couraged to do so. There it was, no doubt, that a feeling of pity for 
and an ardent desire to help the poor, the sick, and the needy, were 
firet aroused in the Princess. We know how these early impressions 
led in later life to her founding some of the noblest and most benefi- 
cent institutions. 

The blessings of a happy family life — which generally those only 
are allowed to enjoy who live in happy obscurity from the great 
world — were fully appreciated by the Princess, as we may see from 
her later letters, abounding in gratitude to her parents and brothers 
and sisters, and from the frequent references which she makes to 
this period of her life. 

The visits of the grandchildren to their beloved grandmother, the 
Duchess of Kent, ofd in years but }''oung in spirit, at her residences 
at Frogmore (near Windsor), and Abergeldie (near Balmoral), had a 
peculiar charm for them. 

The first excursion th^ Princess made out of her native land was 
to Cherbourg,* when, with her brothers and sisters, she accompan- 
ied her parents. The lovely scenerj'' about Cherbourg has become 
familiar to us through the descriptions given by the Queen. 

A great change in the life of the Princess took place through the 
engagement of the Princess Royal to Prince Frederick William of 

* In 18.57. See the Life of the Prince Consort, vol. iv. 



10 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Prussia. Hitherto the Princess had in a great measure shared her 
sister's studies and artistic occupations, and had had the same com- 
panions, faking quietly and naturally the second place. Now her 
sister's departure for a new home wrought an entire change in her 
life, throwing upon her, as it did, new responsibilities as now the 
eldest daughter at home, and placing her in a new position in rela- 
tion to her parents, and particularly to her father, whose constant 
care it was to imbue her with that sincerity and earnestness of pur- 
pose without which, to use his friend Baron Stockmar's words, " it 
was impossible to fill one's position in life happily, worthily, and 
with dignity. ' ' 

The closer intercourse with her father laid the foundation of that 
deep and intelligent love of plastic art and of music, for which she 
had already as a child shown a decided talent. Her appreciation of 
all that was best in the arts was fostered by the many treasures by 
which she was surrounded at Windsor Castle, and also by prosecut- 
ing her studies and practice in music along with the Prince Consort. 

The many great and stirring events of those years, the disturbance 
of Europe through the Revolution of 1848 and 1849, and the Cri- 
mean war, took place when the Princess was already old enough to 
feel their gravity; and served to awaken and foster the keen interest 
which she took in later years in all political occurrences. 

Another great European conflict was approaching, just about the 
time of her Confirmation, which took place on the 21st of April, 
1859. Besides having been prepared for it by the Dean of Windsor 
(the Hon. and Very Rev. G. Wellesley), the Prince Consort himself 
had given the Princess instructions, as he had previously done to 
the Princess Royal, from A Maniial of Beligion and of the History of 
the Christian vhurch, by Carl Gottlieb Bretschneider (formerly 
" General Superintendent " in Gotha). The Prince's object in this 
was to encourage her in serious thought, and in independent reflec- 
tions on religious questions. 

The ceremony of the Confirmation, which was performed by the 
Archbishop of Canterbury, had barely been concluded, when the 
news arrived of the threatened invasion of Sardinia by Austria, 
which finally ended in. the Austro-ltalian war, so disastrous to Aus- 
tria, of 1859. 

The Queen makes the following remarks on this event in a letter 
to her uncle, the King of the Belgians : — 

..." But this did not in the least disturb our dear child's equa- 
nimity. She was in a most devotional state of mind— quiet, gentle, 
self-possessed and deeply impressed by the importance and solem- 
nity of the event. She answered admirably at her examination, and 
went through the ceremony in a very perfect manner." * 

Not long before this the Queen had given iier own opinion of her 
daughter in the following words : — 

" She is very good, gentle, sensible, and amiable, and a real com- 
fort to me. 1 shall not let her marry as long as 1 can reasonably 
delay her doing so. " f 

* Life of the Pi-ince Consort, vol. iv. p. 429. t Ibid. p. 427. 



ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 11 

In June, 1860, the Queen and Prince Consort received numerous 
guests at Windsor Castle for the Ascot races, amongst others the 
King of the Belgians and the two Princes, Louis and Henry of 
Hesse, sons of Prince Charles of Hesse and nephews of the reigning 
Grand Duke. After they had left England, the Prince Consort men- 
tioned to his valued friend Baron Stockmar, that there was no doubt 
Prince Louis and Princess Alice had formed a mutual liking, and 
that he quite expected it would lead to further advances from the 
young Prince's family. 

Judging by the favorable impression which the manly and attract- 
ive Prince of twenty-three had made, the probable result was eagerly 
loolced for. 

Before long a letter from Princess Frederic William from Berlin 
announced that she had been in communication with Prince Louis's 
mother, Princess Charles of Hesse (cousin of the Prince Regent of 
Prussia), who had informed her of her son's great admiration for 
her sister. It was arranged that, after the journey of the Queen and 
Prince Consort to Germany that autumn, the young Prince should 
pay a second visit to England ; and leave of absence for him was 
to be obtained from the Prince Regent of Prussia.* This was 
done, and he arrived at Windsor Castle in November. On the 30th 
of November the Queen wrote as follows in her Diary : — 

"... After dinner, vphilst talking to the gentlemen, I perceived 
Alice and Louis talking before the fireplace more earnestly than 
usual, and when 1 passed to go to the other room, both came up to 
me, and Alice in much agitation said he had proposed to her, and he 
begged for my blessing. I could only squeeze his hand and say 
' Certainly,' and that we would see him in our room later. Got 
through the evening working as well as we could. Alice came to 
our room . . . agitated, but quiet. . . . Albert sent for Louis to his 
room; he went first to him and then called Alice and me in. , . . 
Louis has a warm, noble heart. We embraced our dear Alice, and 
praised her much to him. He pressed and kissed my hand, and 1 
embraced him. After talking a little, we parted; a most touching, 
and to me most sacred, moment. ' ' f 

As this was entirely a marriage of affection, the happiness of the 
" young people " was very great. 

Prince Louis stayed over Christmas, which this year seemed 
brighter to the whole family, from the accession of what her father 
termed " a beloved newly-bestowed full-grown son." " Our dear 
Bridegroom," as the Prince Consort calls the young Prince, left on 
the 28th of December. The parting was tearful, but full of hope, 
as he was to return in the spring. 

During the first happy weeks after her engagement. Princess Alice 
had spent the greater part of her evenings with her beloved grand- 
mother, the Duchess of Kent, either reading or playing on the piano 
to her, as the Duchess's health did not allow of her dining at Wind- 
sor Castle. 

* Prince Louis of Hesse was at this time serving in the Prussian Guards at 
Potsdam. 

t Life of the Prince Consort, vol. v. p. 253. 



12 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

The Duchess's condition had become worse during the first months 
of the new year (1861), and she died on the 16th of March at the age 
of seventy -four in the presence of her beloved and loving daughter, 
whose happiness and affection had been the joy of her life, and also 
of her equally beloved son-in-law, and the Princess Alice. On this 
sad occasion, which she felt most deeply. Princess Alice showed the 
comfort and help she was fitted to be to her faipily in times of sor- 
row and anxiety. 

The Queen communicated to Parliament in a " Message " the 
contemplated marriage of the Princess. The announcement was re- 
ceived with general satisfaction. When, shortly afterward, the ques- 
tion of the Princess's '' settlement " was laid before the House of 
Commons, the dowry of 30,OOOL, with an annuity of 6000^. , was 
voted without a dissentient voice. " She will not," writes her care- 
ful father, " be able to do great things with it." 

In May Prince Louis arrived at Osborne on a visit. Soon after, 
however, he fell ill with the measles. Prince Leopold caught them 
from him, and was very seriously ill. 

In the following month the whole family were for the last time 
together, including the two sons-in-law * and the two grandchildren 
from Potsdam. 

Prince Louis paid another visit to England in September, when 
he took part in those delightful expeditions in the Highlands, which 
were to be the last the Prince Consort made.f 

Li Deceinber, in the midst of preparations which he was making 
for Princess Alice's future household, and for a journey of her 
brother. Prince Leopold, to Cannes, the Prince Consort fell ill. 
Princess Alice was often with her father during his illness, reading 
to him, and in intimate communication with her mother. Soon, 
however, the illness developed into low fever, and the Prince, worn 
out by over- work and anxiety, had not strength to resist it, and died 
peacefully on the 14th of December, in the presence of the Queen, 
the Prince of Wales, and the Princesses Alice and Helena. During 
the days of unspeakable sorrow wliich followed upon the death of 
the Prince Consort, it was Princess Alice above all who was a real 
support to her broken-hearted mother. The unanimous opinion of 
eye-witnesses as to what the Princess went through and achieved at 
this time is truly astonishing. 

" Herself filled with intensest sorrow at her beloved father's death 
— and what a father! what a head of a family! what a friend and 
adviser to his wife and children ! — she at once took into her own 
hands everything that was necessary in those first dark days of the 
destruction of that happy home. All communications from the 
Ministers and household passed through the Princess's hands to the 
Queen, then bowed down by grief. She endeavored in every way 
possible, either verbally or by writing, to save her mother all trouble. 
The decision to leave Windsor for Osborne directly after the Prince's 
death, according to the urgent wish of the King of the Belgians, and 

* This is not quite correct. Prince Louis had left for Germany before the 
others arrived, 
t See Leaves from a Journal. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 13 

wliicli it was so dififlcult and painful for the Queen to make, was ob- 
tained by tbe Princess's inlluence>" 

The gay, bright girl seemed all at once tp have changed into the 
thoughtful woman, 

" It was the very intimate intercourse with the sorrowing Queen 
at that time which called forth in Princess Alice that keen interest 
and understanding in politics for which she was afterward so dis- 
tinguished. She also gained at this time that practical knowledge 
•for organizing, and the desire for constant occupation, which in her 
public as well as in her private life became part of herself. The 
Princess suddenly developed into a wise far-seeing woman, living 
only for others, and beloved and respected by the highest as well as 
by the lowest. " * 

It was at this time that the Times said of the Princess: " It is im- 
possible to speak too highly of the strength of mind and self-sacri- 
fice shown by Princess Alice during these dreadful days. Her Royal 
Highness has certainly understood that it was her duty to be the 
help and support of her mother in her great sorrow, and it was in a 
great measure due to her that the Queen has been able to bear with 
such wonderful resignation the irreparable loss that so suddenly and 
terribly befell her. ' ' 

The young " bridegroom " did not remain absent in those days, 
but arrived without delay. 

A touching trait is told by the same near relation of the Princess 
whose memorandum has just been quoted. As she was placing 
wreaths and flowers over the dear dead Prince, and both knelt down 
near him, she said in a heartrending voice, " Oh! dear Molly, let us 
pray to God to give lis back dear Papa!" 

The letters published in this volume will show tJiat the feeling of 
that irreparable loss never left her through life, and our impression 
cannot be a false one, that it was this loss which brought out the 
deep earnestness of her character, and v, hich made her feel that life 
was no light thing, but a time of probation to be spent in earnest 
•work and conscientious fulfillment of duty. 

She felt it to be a sacred duty to foster the recollections of her girl- 
iood, and to carry out the principles with which her father had im- 
bued her, whether in the cultivation of art and science, the encour- 
agement of art manufactures, of agriculture and general education, 
in the tasteful and practical arrangement of her own house, in bet- 
tering the condition of the lower and working classes by improving 
their homes and inculcating principles of health, economy, and do- 
mestic management. In short, in every way open to her, did the 
Princess try to walk in her father's footsteps, and so to do honor to 
bis memory. 

It was but natural that during the first weeks of her great sorrow, 
and of her many new duties, the thought of her own future should 
bave been put into the background. The preparations for her mar- 
liage, however, as well as for her household, were continued, accord- 
ing to the known intentions of the Prince Consort. The marriage 

* Memorandum by the Grand Duchess of Baden. 



14 ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

was solemnized at Osborne on the 1st of July at one o'clock. The 
Archbishop of York performed the ceremony in the absence of the 
Archbishop of Canterbury, who was prevented by illness from being 
present. 

Besides her sorrowing mother, the Crown Prince of Prussia, all 
her brothers and sisters, the parents and brothers and sister of the 
bridegroom, and a number of princely relations were present. The 
Duke of Saxe Coburg Gotha, in the place of her father, led the bride 
to the altar, whilst the bridegroom was accompanied by liis brother. 
Prince Henry. At Ihe conclusion of the ceremony, the Queen with- 
drew to her room. The guests left the Isle of Wight in the after 
noon, whilst the newly-married pair went with a small suite to St. 
Clare, near Ryde (belonging to Colonel and Lady Catherine Har- 
court), where they remained three days. 

On the 9th of July Prince and Princess Louis of Hesse left Eng- 
land, accompanied by the fervent prayers and good wishes of a de- 
voted people, who never forgot what their Princess had been to them 
in their hour of trouble. 

What they felt found apt expression in the following sonnet^ 
which appeared in Puncli at the time. 

Dear to us all by those calm earnest eyes, 

And early thought upon that fair young brow ; 

Dearer for that where grief was heaviest, thou 
Wert sunshine, till He passed where suns shall rise 
And set no more ; thou, in affection wise 

And strong, wert strength to Her who even but now 

In the soft accents of thy bridal vow 
Heard music of her own heart's memories. 

« Too full of love to own a thought of pride 
Is now thy gentle bosom; so 'tis best: 

Yet noble is thy choice, O English bride ! 
And England hails the bridegroom and the guest 

A friend — a friend well loved by him who died. 
He blessed your troth : your wedlock shall be blessed. 



m HER NEW HOME. 

1863—1865. 

" Our life is a very happy one. I have nothing on earth to wish for. . . . ^ 
To be able to make a bright and comfortable home for my dear husband is my 
constant aim." (14^^ Feb.-lst March, 1864.) 

1862. 

Meanwhile sorrow had fallen on the Grand Ducal family of 
Hesse also. Some weeks before the Princess's marriage (May 25) 
the Grand Duchess of Hesse (Princess of Bavaria) had died — a 
woman beloved for her amiable and generous qualities, deeply re- 
gretted by her husband, the Grand Duke Louis HI., and mouroed 
by all who knew her, high as well as low. Nevertheless, prepara- 
tions had been made to give a brilliant reception to the newly -married 
pair. The whole countrj' looked forward with anxiety to the arrival 
of the young Princess, of whom so much had been heard, and who^ 



ALICE, GEAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 15 

though English, was known to have a thoroughly Bympathetic feeling 
for Germany. 

The Prince and Princess made a short stay at Brussels, and arrived 
at Bingen, on the Hessian frontier, on the 13lh of July. 

A special train took them on to Mayence, where the first oflScial 
reception took place. The Rhine was crossed in a gayly-decorated 
steamer, and at the last station hefore Darmstadt the Grand Duke 
and all the family received the Prince and Princess and accompanied 
them to Darmstadt. 

At half-past four in the afternoon the young man-ied couple made 
their state entry into the town through streets decorated with triumphal 
arches, flags, and flowers, amidst the peals of' bells and the enthusi- 
astic cheers of the assembled crowds, receiving and acknowledging 
the many marks of respect and affection with which they were 
greeted. 

A mounted guard of honor headed the procession. The schools, 
the difi;erent guilds, the choral societies, the Turnvereine (gymnastic 
societies), and thousands of town and country folk lined the streets 
through which the Prince and Princess passed. 

The impression produced upon everyone by the young Princess's 
grace and sweet maidenly beauty, and bright, winning, yet truly dig- 
nified, manner, was very great, and inspired the fairest hopes of 
what she would prove in her new hoine. What her own first im- 
pressions of that home were are given in the letters which follow. 

The circumstances of her new life were certainly very different 
from those to which she had been accustomed as an English Princess. 
What she may have felt more keenly, as time went on, in the small 
but often-recurring differences between English and German life, 
did not oppress her at first. She had determined to make herself at 
home in her husband's country, and she very soon contrived to 
stamp on every room in her house the impress of her fine taste. That 
house was of the most unpretending character, situated in a quiet 
quarter of the town, near the palace of Prince and Princess Charles 
of Hesse. They had few servants besides those who came with them 
from England. 

A short visit to her uncle at Coburg, a lengthened stay at Auer- 
bach — wliere the Prince and Piincess had a small country-house 
lent them by the Grand Duke — and excursions to Heidelberg and 
Carlsruhe, occupied the summer months. In September they went 
to Rheinhardtsbrunn in Thuriugia to meet the Queen, and it was 
then settled that they should spend the winter and spring in Eng- 
land with Her Majesty. The house the Prince and Princess were 
living in at Darmstadt was so small, that plans had at once to be 
made for a new palace of their own. 

On the 10th of November they left Darmstadt, traveling by Cob- 
lenz and Cologne to Antwerp. Here the Queen's yacht Victoria 
and Albert awaited them, and brought them to England, where they 
met with a most hearty reception from all classes. 

Royal Yacht : July 9. 
Beloved Mamma, — Before leaving the yacht 1 must send you a 
few lines to wish you once more good-by, and to thank you agaia 
and again for all your kindness to us. 



16 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OE HESSE. 

My heart was very full when I took leave of you and all the dear 
ones at home; 1 had not the courage to say a word — but your lov- 
ing heart understands what 1 felt. 

Darmstadt : July 13. 
Yesterday, after we reached Bingen, all the Hessian .officers of 
state received us. At every station we received fresh people, and 
had to speak to them. At Mayence also the beautiful Austrian 
band played whilst we waited, in pouring rain, which only ceased 
as we reached Darmstadt. The station before, the Grand Duke, 
Prince and Princess Charles with their children, Prince Alexander 
and his wife, received us — all most kind and cordial. 

At the station we were again received; the whole town so prettily 
decked out; the Burger [Burgesses Escort] rode near our carriage; 
countless young ladies in white, and all so kind, so loyal : in all the 
speeches kind and touching allusions were made to you, and to our 
deep grief. I believe the people never gave so hearty a welcome. 
We two drove together through the town; incessant cheering and 
showering of flowers. We got out at Prince and Princess Charles's 
house, where the whole family was assembled. 

We then went to our rooms, which are very small, but so prettily 
arranged, with such perfect taste, all by my own dear Louis; they 
look quite English. 

We then drove to Bessungen for dinner ewfamille. . . . 

We were listening to twelve Sangervereine (Choral Unions) sing- 
ing together yesterday evening — two hundred people; it was most 
beautiful, but in pouring rain. Some came upstairs dripping ta 
speak to us. The Grand Duke gave me a tine diamond bracelet he 
and his wife had ordered for me, and showed me all over his rooms. 

To-morrow we receive the Standesherren [Princes and Counts] and 
the gentlemen of both Houses. 

J^ thoughts, rather our thoughts, are constantly with you, 'be- 
loved Mamma. Please give my love to all at home; it is impossible 
to write to them all. 

July 16. 

... It is extremely hot here. The last two days we rode out 
at eight in the morning in the wood, where the air is very pleasant, 
near the ground where the troops are drilled On Monday ^e 
looked on, and the soldiers were so much flattered. 

At half past one on Monday we received the gentlemen of the 
Upper House, then the Lower House, then the Flugel-adjutanten 
[aides-de-camp], then the Stadtvorstand [Town Council], then about 
seventy officers, then a deputaion of the English here. All these 
people 1 had to speak to en grancle toilette, and at lour we drove to a 
large dinner at the Schloss. The Grand Duke led me, and 1 always 
sit near him. 

Yesterday at three the whole family drove to Seeheim, a lovely 
place in the mountains, to dinner with the Grand Duke. In the 
two villages we passed, flowers were showered upon us, and the 
Pfarrer [clergyman] made a speech. 

I am really deeply touched by ihe kindness and enthusiasm shown. 
by the people, which is said to be quite unusual. They wait near 
the house to see us, and cheer constantly — even the soldiers. 

We then drove to tea, which is always at eight, to Jugenheim to 



ALICE, GUAi^D DUCHESS OF HESSE. 1? 

Prince Alexander, whose birthday it was, and did not gei home 
till ten. 

The whole family are very amiable toward me, and Prince Alex- 
ander is most clever and amusing. 

Darling Louis is very grateful for your kind messages. We talk 
and think of you often, and then my heai't grows very heavy. 
Away from home 1 cannot believe that beloved Papa is not there; 
all is so associated with him. 

July 19. 

Beloved Mamma, — Many thanks for your last kind letter, and 
all the news from home; dear Baby [Princess Beatrice] is the only 
one you have mentioned nothing of, and 1 think of her so often. 

Some people are coming to us at one, and then the whole Mini- 
sterium [Administration]. It is really so difficult to find something 
to say to all these people, and they stand there waiting to be 
spoken to. 

Yesterday we received a deputation from Giessen, with a very 
pretty dressing-case they brought us as a present. 

On Thursday we went incognito with Prince Alexander and his 
wife to Frankfurt. The town is decked out most beautifully, and 
countless Schiitzen [riflemen] are walking about in their dress. We 
dined at the Palais and then sat in the balcony. 

I have just taken leave of dear Lady Churchill and General Sey- 
mour.* They have made themselves most popular here, and the 
people have been very evil to them. 

Louis and I have begun reading Westward Ho together. 

The Grand Duke went all the way to Kranichstein for me the 
other day, and walked about till he was quite hot. He has forbid- 
den my visiting the other places until his retm-n, as he wishes to 
lead me about there himself. I do not see very much of the other 
relations save at meals ; and, having our o"\vn carriages, we two drive 
together mostly alone. We have tea usually out of doors in some 
pretty spot we drive to. 

These lines will find you in Windsor. 1 went out this morning 
and tried to find some of those pretty wreaths to send you, but could 
get none. Please put one in St. George's f from me. It is the first 
time you go to that hallowed spot without me; but in thought and 
prayer 1 am with you. May God strengthen and soothe j^ou, be- 
loved Mamma, and may you still live to find some ray of sunshine 
on your solitarj'- path, caused by the love and virtue of his children, 
trying, however faintly, to follow his glorious example! 

I do strive earnestly and cheerfully to do my duty in my new life, 
and to do all that is right, which is but doing what dear Papa would 
have wished. 

July 30. 

Thousand thanks for your dear long letter of the 18th just re- 
ceived. How well dol understand your feelings! 1 was so sad 
myself yesterday, and had such intense longing after a look, a word 
from beloved Papa! 1 could bear it no longer. Yet lioio much 

* Afterward Marquis of Hertford, who died on the 25th of January, 1884. 
+ St. Gteorge's Chapel, Windsor, where the Prince Consort rested until re- 
moved to the Mausoleum at Frogmore. 



18 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

worse is it not for you ! You know, tliough, dear Mamma, Tie is 
watching over you, waiting for you. The thought of the future is 
the one sustaining, encouraging point for all. " They who sow in 
tears shall reap in joy;" and great joy will be yours hereafter, dear 
Mamma, if you continue following that bright example. . . . 

We usually ^et up about a quarter or lialf past seven, and take 
some coffee at eight. Then we either go out till ten or remain at 
home, and till twelve 1 write and arrange what I have to do. 
' At one, when we return from breakfast, we usually read together. 

I have still a great many people to see, and they usually come at 
two. 

At four is dinner, and at half past five We are -usually back here, 
and occupy ourselves till six or seven, then drive out somewhere for 
tea at eight, walk about and return at a quarter or half -past ten. We 
do not waste our time, 1 assure you, and Louis has a good deal to 
do at this moment. 

Mr. Theed's bust of dear Papa must be veiy lovely. 1 am curious 
to hear what you tliink of Marochetti's.* It will be very sad for 
you to see. 

A fortnight already 1 am here, and away from my dear home three 
weeks! How much I shall have to tell j^ou when we meet. My 
own dear Mamma, 1 do love you so much! You know, though 
silent, my love and devotion to you is deep and true. If 1 could re- 
linquish part of my present happiness to restore to you some of 
yours, with a full heart would 1 do it; but God's will be done! God 
sustain my precious mother! is the hourly prayer of her loving and 
sympathizing child. 

July 24. 

. , . You tell me to speak to you of my happiness— our hap- 
piness. You will understand the feeling which made me silent 
toward you, my own dear bereaved Mother, on that point ; but you 
are unselfish and loving and can enter into my happiness, though I 
could never have been the first to tell you how intense it is, when it 
must draw the painful contrast between your past and present ex- 
istence. If I say 1 love my dear husband, that is scarcely enough — 
it is a love and esteem which increases daily, hoxirly; which h<j also 
shows to me by such consideration, such tender loving ways. 
What was life before to what it has become now? There is such 
blessed peace being at his side, being his wife ; there is such a feel- 
ing of security; and we two have a world of our own when we are 
together, which notJiing can touch or intrude upon. My lot is in- 
deed a blessed one; and yet what have 1 done to deserve that warm, 
ardent love, which my darling Louis ever shows me? I admire his 
good and noble heart more than I can say. How he loves you, you 
know, and he will be a good son to you. He reads to me every day 
out of Westward Ho, which 1 think very beautiful and interesting. 

This morning 1 breakfasted alone, as he went out with his regiment. 
I always feel quite impatient until I hear his step coming upstairs, 
and see his dear face when he returns. 

Yesterday, and the previous night, I thought of you constantly, 

* The recumbent statue of the Prince Consort, now in the Mausoleum at 
Frogmore, 



ALICE, GllAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 19 

and of our last journey together to dear Balmoral. Sad, painful 
though it was, 1 liked so much being with you, trying to bear some 
of your load of sorrow with you. From here 1 share all as if 1 
were really by your side; and I think so many fervent prayers can- 
not be offered to a merciful loving God without His sending allevia 
tion and comfort. 

Please remember me to Grant, Brown, and all of them at home in 
dear Scotland, and tell them how much I wish, and Louis also, 
that we were there, changed though everything is. 

July 35. 
. . . People say we may still have the Palais, but 1 doubt it. 
1 am going to tell the Grand Duke that we return to England in 
autumn (not only for your sake, but principally because 1 do_ not 
wish to incommode our parents any longer, and because in the winter 
we could not even receive people here). 

The only thing 1 shall regret in our not remaining here is, that the 
people feel it so much, and they are most kind; but they will see 
and understand that it cannot be otherwise, and that it does not arise 
from ill will on our part. 

. . . Cecile and Michael* were here yesterday, so kind and so 
full of real sympathy toward you, which they begged me to express 
to you. He has such warm feelings; and they admired and loved 
dear Papa, though they saw him but little. 

Darmstadt: August 1. 
. . . My heart feels" ready to burst when 1 thinli of such 
sorrow as yours. 1 pray my adored Louis may long be spared to 
me. If you only knew how dear, how loving he is to me, and how 
he watches over me, dear darling! 

To morrow we go to Ooburg, which was an old pi'omise. Dear 
Uncle sent only two days ago to say he left Coburg on the 5th, and 
would we not come before? You will understand that, happy be- 
yond measure as I am to go there, a lump always comes into my 
throat when I think of it — going for the first time with Louis to 
dear Papa's house, where but recently he showed us everything him- 
self. f Dear Mamma, 1 think 1 can scarcely bear it— the thought 
seems so hard and cruel. He told us as children so much of Coburg, 
spoke to us of it with such childlike affection, enjoyed so much tell- 
ing us every anecdote connected with each spot; and now these 
silent spots seem to plead for his absence. 

To see the old Baron f Stockmar] will be a great happiness, and 
tnat Louis should make his acquaintance. 

Oalenberg bei Coburg : August 4. 
Once more in dear Coburg, and you can fancy with what feel- 
ings. Everything reminds me of beloved Papa and of our last 
happy visit. 

We are living here, and yesterday we spent all the afternoon and 
dined at the Rosenau. Itr was a lovely day, and the view so beauti- 

* Grand Duke and Grand Duchess Michael of Russia. The Grand Duke 
Michael is uncle of the present Ennperor of Russia. 
t This was in the autumn of 1860. 



20 ALICE, C4RANI> DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

ful. We went all over tlie house and walked about in the grounds. 
We walked to dear Papa's little garden, and 1 picked two flowers 
there for you, wliich 1 inclose. 

Every spot brought up the remembrance of something dear Papa 
had told us of his childhood; it made me so sad, I can't tell you. 
TJncle Ernest was also sad, but so kind and affectionate, and they 
both seemed so pleased at our having come. 

Everything about dear Papa's illness, and then of the sad end, 1 
had to tell. 1 lived the whole dreadful time over again, and won- 
der, whilst 1 speak of it, that we ever lived through it. 

A.t nine o'clock Church service was in the pretty little chapel. 
Holzei read, and Superintendent Meyer preached a most beautiful 
sermon, the text being where our Saviour told His disciples they 
must become as a little child to enter into the kingdom of heaven. 
He spoke with his usual fervor, and it was most impressive. 1 saw 
him afterwaii'd, and he inquired very much after you. 

We are going after breakfast to the I'estung, and then Louis and 
1 are going to see the dear Baron [Stockmar]. 

Darmstadt : August 6. 
Dear beloved Mamma, — Can you give me no ray of hope that 
you in some way, bodily or mentally, feel better? It makes my 
heart ache bitterly, to hear those sad accounts you give of yourself, 
though 1 well know what for you life without Mm must be ! God 
comfort you ! is my constant prayer. 

We saw the dear old Baron for some time. The meeting was 
sad on both sides ; he was very kind, but so desponding as to every- 
thing ! In England and abroad he looks at everything in a black 
lisrht, and was full of complaints about himself. He asked much 
after you, and is anxious to see you again. 

August 9. 

Next Monday we are going to Auerbach, to live there for a 
little time. It lies in the Bergstrasse, and is very healthy. The 
Grand Duke allows us to inhabit one of the houses. 

August 16. 
.... How 1 long to read what Mr. Helps has written 
about Papa! What can it be but beautiful and elevating, if he has 
rightly entered into the spirit of that pure and noble being? * 

Oh, Mamma ! the longing I sometimes have for dear Papa surpasses 
all bounds. In thought he is ever present and near me; still we are 
but mortals, and as such at times long for him also. Dear, good 
Papa! Take courage, dear Mamma, and feel strong in the thought 
that you require all your moral and physical strength to continue the 
journey which brings you daily nearer to Home and to Him ! I know 
how weary you feel, how you long to rest your head on his dear 
shoulder^ to have him to soothe your aching heart. You will find 
this rest again, and hoAv blessed will it not be ! Bear patiently and 
courageously your heavy burden, and it^will lighten imperceptibly 
as you near him, and God's love and mercy will support you. Oh, 

* This refers to Mr., afterward Sir, Arthur Helps' introduction to the Col- 
lected Addresses and Speeches of the Prince Consort, which was then about to 
be published (Murray, 1862). 



ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 31 

could my feeble words bring you the least comfort ! They come 
from a trusting, true and loving heart, if from naught else. 

Auerbach : August 16. 
. . . We do feel for you so deeply and would wish so much 
to help you, but there is but One who can do that, and you linow 
whom to seek. He will give you strength to live on till the bright 
day of reunion. . . . 

Auerbach : August 21. 
. . . Our visit to Giessen* went ofE very well. The people 
were most loyal. We went to see the Gynmasts, and Louis walked 
about amongst them, which pleased them very much. He is very 
popular there, and 1 am very glad we both went, for it made a good 
impression. 

We drove to Louis' property, Stauffenberg, a beautiful (alas! 
ruined) castle, which by degrees he is having'restored, and which 
will be a charming house tor us, if it is finished, which can 'only 
be done gradually. 

Auerbach : August 23. 
. . . Try and gather in the few bright things you have re- 
maining and cherish them, for though faint, yet they are types of 
that infinite joy still to come. 1 am sure, dear Mamma, the more you 
try to appreciate and to find the good in that which God in His love 
has left you, the more worthy you will daily become of that which 
is in store. That earthly happiness you had is indeed gone for ever, 
but you must not think that every ray of it has left you. You 
have the privilege, which dear Papa knew so well how to value, in 
your exalted position, of doing good and living for others, of carry- 
ing on his plans, his wishes into fulfillment, and as you go on doiiig 
your duty, this will, this must, 1 feel sure, bring you peace and com- 
fort. Forgive me, darling Mamma, if I speak so openly ; but my love 
for you is such that 1 cannot be silent, when 1 long so fervently to 
give you some slight comfort and hope in your present life. 

1 have known and watched j^our deep sorrow with a sympathiz- 
ing, though aching heart. Do not think that absence from you can 
still that pain. My love for you is strong, is constant; I would like 
to shelter you in my arms, to protect jon from all future anxietj^, 
to still your aching longing! My own sweet Mamma, you know I 
would give my life for you, could 1 alter what you have to bear! 

Trust in Qod! ever and constantly. In my life 1 feel that to be 
my stay and my strength, and the feeling increases as the days go 
on. My thoughts of the future are bright, and this always helps lo 
make the minor worries and sorrows o^ the present dissolve before 
the warm rays of that light which is our guide. 

Auerbach : August 25. 

. , . To-day is the Ludwigstag, a day kept throughout the 

country, and on which every Ludwig receives presents, &c. ; but we 

spend it quite quietly. Louis' jjarents and the others are coming to 

breakfast, and remain during the day. Louis is out riding. We 

* During a Musical and Gymnastic Festival. 



22 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

always get up early. He rides whilst I write, and we then walk 
together and breakfast somewhere out of doors. 

We went to the little church here yesterday, which is very old, 
and they sung so well. 

1 drew out of doors also, as it was very fine; but it is very difficult, 
as it is all green, and the trees are my misfortune, as 1 draw them so 
badly. I play sometimes with Christa;* she plays very well. 

August 26 [Prince Consort's Birthday]. 
With a heavy heart do I take up my pen to write to you to-day 
— this dear day, now so sad, save through its bright recollections. 1 
cannot bear to think of it now, with no one to bring our wishes to, 
with that painful silence where such mirth and gayety used to be. 
It is very hard to bear, and the first anniversary is like the com- 
mencement of a new epoch in our deep sorrow 

When your dear present was brought to me this morning, 1 could 
not Jake my eyes from it, though they were blinded with tears. Oh, 
those beautiful, those loved features! There wants but his kind 
look and word to make the picture alive! Thousand thanks for it, 
dear Mamma. 

flow trying this day will be for you! My thoughts are constantly 
with you, and 1 envy the privilege the others have in being near you 
and being able to do the least thing for you. 

The sun shines brightly in the still blue sky; how bright and 
peaceful it must be where our dear Spirit dwells, if it is already so 
beautiful here. . 

September 5. 

. . . Two days ago, Louis and 1 went to Worms. Whilst 
he went to his regiment, which the Grand Duke came to inspect, I 
went to the Dom, which is most beautiful ; and then went in a little 
boat on the Rhine, which was charming. It took us, driving, an 
hour and a half from Auerbach to Worms 

Auerbach : September 7. 
. . . For Louis' birthday we are going to Darmstadt; It is 
getting cold and damp here, and the house is small. We take our 
meals in another house, and it is cold to walk over there of an 
evening. Think of us on the 12th. It was such a happy day last 
year.f 

1 have such Heimweh [yearning] after beloved Papa; it is dread- 
ful sometimes when I thmk of him and of our home. But he is so 
happy in his bright home, could we but catch a glimpse of him 
there. Dear Grandmamma [the Duchess of Kent], too, is con- 
stantly in my thoughts lately. I can see her before me — so dear, 
kind, and merry. As time goes on, such things only mingle them- 
selves more vividly with one's usual life; for it is their life which is 
nearest us again, and not their death, which casts such a gloom o7er 
their remembrance. 

Auerbach: September 11. 

. . . H;ow beautiful Heidelberg is! we went all over the 
Castle, and with such glorious weather. There is one side si ill 

* The Princess's lady, Baroness Christa Schenk. 
+ Prince Louis was then at Balmoral. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 23 

Standing, built and decorated by a pupil of Michael Angelo, wbich 
dear Papa admired so much. How do 1 miss not being able to talk 
to beloved Papa of all 1 see, hear, feel, and think! His absence 
makes such a gap in my existence. 

Daraistadt : October 13. 
. . . Our visit to Baden was charming, and dear Fritz and 
Louise* so kind! Louis and 1 were both delighted by our visit. 
The Queen, the Duchess of Hamilton, and Grand Duchess Helfine 
were there, besides dear Aunt [Princess Hohenlohe], and Countess 
Bliicher. The two latter, dear and precious as ever. 

We left yesterday morning ; spent three hours with Grand Duchess 
Sophie, who is the most agreeable, clever, amiable person one can 
imagine. It gave me real pleasure to make her acquaintance. Aunt 
Feodore's house, though small, is really very pretty, and her rooms 
are hung full of pictures. I saw "Winterhalter also, in his lovely new 
house, which he has gone and sold, saying it was too good for him. 
He has painted a most beautiful picture of the Grand Duchess Hel^ne 
— quite speaking. 

... 1 am going to make my will before leaving. 1 do not like 
leaving (for England) without having done something. 

Darmstadt : October 1". 
First of all, thousand thanks from Louis and me tor your having 
allowed dear Arthurf to come to us. I cannot tell you what pleas- 
ure it has been to me to have that dear child a little bit. He has won 
all hearts, and 1 am so proud when they admire my little brother, 
who is a mixture of you and adored Papa. 

Darmstadt : October 33. 
. . . We intend probably leaving this on Saturday, the 8th, re- 
maining until the 10th at Coblenz, from whence we go direct in 
eleven hours and three-quarters to Antwerp, leaving Antwerp the 
morning of the 12th, to reach Windsor that evening or the next 
morning. 

We always continue reading together, and have read Hypatia, a 
most beautiful, most interesting, and very learned and clever book, 
which requires great attention. 

1 have the great bore to read the newspapers eveiy day, which 1 
must do; see Dr. Becker:}: from eleven to twelve; then 1 write, and 
have constantly people to see, so that 1 have scarcely any time to 
draw or to play. 1 also read serious books to myself. 

Louis would like to go to Leeds and Manchester from Osborne, 
as he wants to go to London from Windsor. I shall accompany him 
sometimes. 

October 25. 
As you come later to Windsor, we shall not leave till the 10th, re- 
main the 11th with the Queen, then go direct to Antwerp. If the 
weather is bad we shall wait. Then on the 14th or 15th we shall 



* Grand Duke and Grand Duchess of Baden. 
+ Duke of Connaught, then twelve years old. 
X The Princess Alice's private secretary. 



24 ALICEj GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

be at Windsor, wliicli we prefer to coming to Osborne. We hope 
this will suit you. 

All are full of lamentations at our departure, and for so long, 
which is most natural; but they are very kind. We have a family 
dinner in our little room to-day, which is large enough for a few 
people. The Grand Duke has quite lost his heart to Arthur, and 
Bertie [Prince of Wales] pleased him also very much. 

In talking together last night, Louis said what i feel so often, 
that he always felt as if it must come right again some time, and 
we should find deai Papa home again. In another home we shall. 

October 30. 
The Grand Duke was quite overcome when 1 gave him the photo- 
graphs, and with Baby's [Princess Beatrice's] he is quite enchanted, 
and wishes me toJell you how grateful he is, and how much he 
thanks you. You cannot think hoio pleased he was, and the more so 
that you sent them him. He has a warm heart and feels very much 
for you, and takes warm interest in allmy brothers and sisters. 

1 am glad you are going to see dear Fritz of Baden ; he will be so 
pleased. We shall see Louise at Coblenz. 

The plans for our house are come, and even the simplest is far 
above what we poor mortals can build. 

November 6. 
. . . Yesterday, Mrs Combe, widow of George Combe and 
daughter of Mrs. Siddons, came to see me and was some time with, 
me. Such a clever, amiable old lady. It gave me such pleasure 1o 
see and talk with her. Will you tell Sir James Clark so, as she is 
an old friend of his? 



1863 



Each visit to hex old home seemed to give fresh life to Princess 
Alice, and it can therefore be easily understood how great her hap- 
piness was at being again under her mother's roof and care, there to 
await the realization of her fondest hopes. 

It was also a great comfort to the Princess to spend the first anni- 
versary of her father's death with her family around her. 

On the 18th of December, 1862, the remains of the Prince Consort 
were placed in a temporary sarcophagus, in the center of the newly- 
erected mausoleum at Frogmore in the presence of the Prince of 
Wales, Prince Arthur, Prince Leopold and Prince Louis of Hesse. 

Prince Louis occupied much of his time during his long stay in 
Enjtland in making a number of interesting visits to the chief indus- 
trial centers, and to the military arsenals and depots. 

Princess Alice met with a carriage accident on the last day of the 
old year, which happily was followed by no bad consequences. 

On the 10th of March, 1863, the Prince of Wales was married to 
the Princess Alexandra of Denmark at St. George's Chapel, Windsor 
Castle, in the presence of the whole Royal family. It was the first 
Royal maiTiage which had been celebrated in that chapel since the 
marriage of Henry I. in 1123. 

Soon after, on Easter Sunday, the 5th of April, 1863, Princess 



ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 25 

Louis of Hesse gave birth to a daughter at Windsor Castle. This 
event was made known next day at Darmstadt by the firing of 
twenty-one guns. The best possible news continued to be received 
of the well-doing of mother and child. 

The little Princess was christened on the 27th of April at Windsor 
by the Hessian Court chaplain, Bender. She received the names of 
Yictoria Alberta Elizabeth Matilda. The Princess Alexander and 
Henry of Hesse represented the Grand Ducal family at the christen- 
ing. 

Princess Alice completed her recovery during a stay at Osborne in 
May, and while there was able to accompany the Queen on a visit 
to the Military Hospital at Netley. 

After a short stay in London, Prince and Princess Louis of Hesse 
and their little daughter returned to Darmstadt. They spent the 
summer months at Kranichstein, a shooting-lodge near Darmstadt, 
belonging to the Grand Duke. The Princes employed her time in 
becoming better acquainted with her adopted country, its inhabitants, 
their customs, and ways of thinking. 

The Congress of German Potentates and Princes at Frankfort in 
August brought the Princess in contact with many crowned heads. 
She proved herself her father's true child in regard to politics. The 
Prince Consort had always longed for an united Germany, with 
Prussia at its head, and a Liberal Constitution. Princess Alice's 
letters will show how truly German her feelings were in the Schles- 
wig Holstein question, which at that time, owing to the death of 
King Frederick VII. of Denmark, and the claims made by his suc- 
cessor. King Christian IX., to the succession in the Duchies also, 
assumed a European interest, and led to consequences of permanent 
importance in the history of Em'ope. The accounts of the manner 
in which the Prince and Princess Louis endeavored to fulfill their 
social duties throw a significant light iipon the way in which the 
young Princess discharged her duties as the mistress of her home. 

In August the Princess met Queen Victoria at Coburg: and after- 
ward had the happiness of receiving Her Majesty and her sisters 
Helena, Louise and Beatrice, and her brother Alfred, on a short visit 
at Kranichstein. 

A few weeks later the Prince and Princess with their child joined 
the Queen at Balmoral, where nearly all the members of the Royal 
fa"lnily were assembled. 

In November they returned to Darmstadt, where, during theu' 
absence, the new jDalace had made rapid progress, and was roofed in. 
It was built on a site given by the Grand Duke, and after plans de- 
signed by the Princess herself. The arrangement of the interior was 
entirely carried out by herself in a manner both practical and ar- 
tistic. 

In December, Prince Louis' only sister, Anna, was engaged to 
be married to the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, an event 
which gave great satisfaction at the time. The Princess spent her 
first Christmas in Germany this year — 1863. 



26 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Marlborough House : May 14. 
Dearest Mamma, — Our parting this morning was most painful 
to both of us— from you to wliom we oioe so much, and whom we 
love so dearly. 

May God comfort and support you, beloved Mamma, on your sad 
and weary pilgrimage! 

Marlborough House : May 16. 

1 could not get your dear face and your sweet voice out of my 
mind for an instant, and everywhere I thought 1 must see you or •. 
dear Papa. It seemed so strange; I had the tears in my eyes all 
day. The worst was the Opera, for 1 had never been without you 
or Papa, and all was the same and yet so different! It was very try- . 
ing to me; and so will the Drawing-room be to-day. ... 1 saw 
Lady Jocelyn, Duchess of Manchester, Sir Charles Locock, and Lord 
Alfred Paget, to show them Baby, and all find her like what we all 
were. How much we have to thank for in her name. Your affec- 
tion for her and all you have done for her liave touched us more 
than I can say. It seemed to me quite wrong to take her from you. 
On Wednesday, Alix [Princess of AYales] and myself go to the 
studios. This morning we drove in Battersea Park. 

May 19. 
. . . The Drawing-room was long, but Alix and 1 were not so 
tired, considering the length of time, for we stood, excepting 
twenty minutes, in, the middle, when there was a block and the peo- 
ple could not come. 

In to-day's letter you mention again your wish that we should 
soon be with you again. Out of ten months of our married life five 
have been spent uuder your roof, so you see how ready we are to be 
with you. Before next year Louis does not think we shall be able 
to come; at any rate when we can we shall, and 1 hope we shall be 
able to see you for a day or two in Germany to divide the time. 

Darmstadt : May 23. 
. . . Baby* has been so much admired, and all the clothes you 
gave her. 

Darmstadt: May. 
1 sha'n't have time to write more than a few words, as we have 
just returned from church, and are going to Mayence till Wednes- 
day. The Grand Duke came all the way to Kranichstein yesterday , 
to "go about with us, and see how to arrange it comfortably. He is .' 
most kind, and sat an hour with me. \ 

We have received two deputations this morning, and my things, [ 
which ought to have been here before us, only arrived to-day. 

Mayence : June 2. 

There was a large dinner yesterday ; the Nassaus dined here, 

and this morning we have been to Biebrich. The Duke and Duchess, 

Nicolas Nassau, Marianne of Prussia, f her sister the Duchess of 

Altenburg, and Landgrave William were there. They were most 

* Princess Victoria of Hesse. 

t Princess Frederick Charles, mother of the Duchess of Connaught. 



ALICE, GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 27 

"kind and civil. We hurried back in time for dinner. The Grand 
Duke is most kind, has taken me everywhere about himself — into 
the Dom, into several shops, &c. 

Now when I return I shall have to unpack and pack again for 
Kranichstein, and arrange the house there, which has not been lived 
in for eighty years, so that for writing 1 have barely a moment. 

1 have good accounts of Baby, whom all the old gentlemen run 
out of their houses to look at, when she walks in the garden, and 
try to tell Moffat [her nurse] what they think of her, but she of 
course understands nothing. 

Darmstadt: Junes. 

I write to you to-day, as Louis is going for all day to Worms to- 
morrow, and 1 am going to Jugenheim to Uncle Alexander. It is 
already warm here, and we are going in a day or two into the coun- 
try. 

"The Queen of Prussia passes through here to-day, and I shall 
probably hear from her what her intentions are about England. I 
have received a splendid bracelet from the Empress of Russia — for 
Baby's picture. She is said to be far from well. 

Darmstadt : June 6. 
. . . Louis was away from four o'clock yesterday morning 
till eleven at night. He was at Worms with Uncle Louis. Tuesday 
is his bii'thday, and we shall very likely go on Monday to Maj^ence, 
as Uncle Louis is always wishing for us. 

1 took a walk at Jugenheim yesterday with Uncle Alexander, his 
wife and children, of more than two hours, and it was so beautiful, 
and numberless little birds singing. Uncle Alexander was so grate- 
ful for all your kindness, and was above all so charmed with you. 
It always makes me so happy to be able to talk about you, and to 
hear you appreciated as you ought to be, darling Mamma. 

June 8. 
. . . Baby sits up quite strong, and looks about and laughs. 
She has got on wonderfully, and she is so good. She was an hour 
with us yesterday evening wide awake, and so good. She is as well 
and as strong as any child could be. To-day we go to Mainz, and 
to-morrow night from thence to Kranichstein. All our beds must 
be moved meanwhile, as there are none in the house. 

Kranichstein : June 12. 
Louis went at six this morning to Darmstadt for the inspection 
of his regiment by Uncle Louis. Princess Charles's birthday is on 
the 18th. The Grand Duke will be at Friedberg, and we are to go 
for the da3^ which will be rather tiring, as it is a good way by rail 
and back again, and we have to wait an hour at Frankfort. 

Louis is going to take his seat in the Chamber on the 23rd. He 
was unable to do so last year, as we left for England two days be- 
fore the time. 

June 19. 
. . . You ask me again if 1 occupy myself much and seri- 
ously? Not a moment of the day is wasted, and I have enough to 
read and to think about : what with the many and different papers. 



38 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

and interesling books. Dr. Becker comes daily, and 1 have a good 
deal to look after. 

We have a dinner to-day — Prince and Princess Charles, Uncle 
Adalbert, Anna, William, and the suites. 

June 23. 
... You will be amused to hear that I have taken a little 
black (a Malay) into my service. He is a dear good boy, was brought 
over two years ago by a gentleman, to whom he was given away by 
his own parents as a mark of gratitude for some service done. This 
man has had him here two years, but has never had him taught any- 
thing. He has no religion, and can neither read nor write. 1 am 
going to have him taught, and, later, christenea. He is very intel- 
ligent, thirteen years old. 

We shall remain here for the present ; we go about a good deal 
seeing things near by, and then it is the first time we have our house 
hold and stable, so that on account of Haushaltung [housekeeping], 
&c. , we are going to remain here for a little time. It is very pleas- 
ant besides, and constant moving is far too expensive for us. We 
give dinners here, which are also useful, as 1 know so few people. 
Some of the Standesherren are coming to-morrow, and later some of 
the Abgeordneten [Deputies] of the Second Chamber, which will give 
us an opportunity of malting the acquaintance of some of the Lib- 
erals of the country. 

1 cannot get lid of my rheumatism, which is so unpleasant. 

Louis is very busj'' ; he reads to me sometimes out of Lord Macau- 
lay's last volume of the English History, which I had not yet read. 
Twice a week Louis takes drill with his cavalry regiment, and he 
has to ride out at six in the morning, as it is some way off. 

June 27. 
... 1 bathe every morning and swim about; there is a nice 
little bathing-house. 

I hear Baby shrieking out of doors; she does not cry very much, 
but she is very passionate. She was vaccinated two days ago by Dr. 
Weber, and I am going to be done next week ; the small-pox is at 
Darmstadt, and a man died of it yesterday. Louis is very industri- 
ous and busy ; he has all the papers of the Stande [State papers] to 
read and look through, and reads other useful books, besides papers 
and other things which he must read. He wrote to Lord Derby to 
express his thanks for having been made a Doctor at Oxford. He 
takes a great deal of exercise, riding, walking, rowing, swimming. 
We get up at six every morning and go to bed after ten. 

Louis has always a good deal to do at home, and a good many 
things which would never be expected of him in England. He 
knows the necessity and importance of working. I hope next month 
Uncle Ernest* will come to us for a day on his way back from 
Homburg. He has asked us for a few days to the Calenberg whilst 
you are in Germany, and then in the winter we hope to be for a few 
days at Gotha. 

The Lutzows,f and Miss Seymour dine with us to-day. 

* Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha. 

•I- Count Lutzow was at this time the Austrian Minister Plenipotentiary at 
the Court of Darmstadt. 



ALICE, GEA]S'D DUCHESS OP HESSE. 29 

June 30. 

Lady I'ife is at Homburg, and is coming to dine witli us. To- 
morrow all the family and some other people come to dinner. We 
have seen a good manj^ people; we receive in the morning or tor 
dinner. 

Dalwigk gave a large soiree in the woods, with a supper, for us 
last night. All the Standesherren and Foreign Ministers were there. 

To-morrow is our dear wedding-day. With ^hat gratitude do 1 
look back to that commencement of such happiness, and such real 
and true love, which even daily increases in my beloved husband. 
Oh ! ma}^ we not be deprived of it too soon ! 1 admire and respect 
him for his true-hearted, generous, unselfish, and just nature! Oh, 
dear Mamma, if you only knew how excellent he is! I wish 1 were 
good like him, for he is free from any selfish, small or uncharitable 
feelings. You should see how he is beloved by all his people; our 
servants adore him. 1 open my heart to you, who have so warm 
and sympathizing a heart, that even in the midst of such deep grief 
and sorrow as yours will listen to what your children, who love you 
so dearly, long to say. 

Our little one is grown so pretty; she has little pink cheeks, and 
is so fat and so good-humored. 1 often think her like you when 
she smiles. 

July 2. 

You can fancy how much we thought of this day last year, and 
of you and all the love and kindness you showed us then. How 
truly we both love you, and, when we can, how willingly we shall 
come to your side, and be of the least use to you, you know, ior 1 
feel for you and with yoii, more than words can describe. 

Our first large dinner yesterday went off very well. We make 
our arrangements, sitting, &c., all as you aad dear Papa had it, 
which is new here, but, 1 am happy to say, approved of. We al- 
ways dine at four. Baby appeared afterward, and really never cri^s 
when she is shown, but smiles, and seems quite amused. She is 
immensely admired, particularly for her healthy appearance and fine 
large eyes. I really think her like you now; she is very much 
changed, and, when she sits up, looks so pretty and dear. 

To-day we have again a dinner. There are a fine dining-room and 
drawing-room here, so that we can see a good many people. 

July 4. 

Shortly we are going to pay Prince Solms-Lich, the president of 
the First Chamber, a visit. He is very liberal on the whole, rich, 
and a nice old gentleman. He knew Grandpapa in the year 1820, 
also Uncle Charles, Uncle Hohenlohe, Aunt Feodore, and Eliza. 
Lady Fife, Annie, and Mr. Corbett from Frankfort are coming to 
us to-day. 

The Grand Duke of Weimar was here yesterday for dinner at the 
Schloss. 

What you saj"^ about Germanj'- is so true ; and Louis has the real 
uood of his country near at heart. They always have to vote for or 
against what the Second Chamber brings forward, and the other 
day a vote was sent in from the Liberals for an alteration of a Press 



30 ALICE; GUA2?}^D DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Law. Only one voice in the whole Chamber was for it, which was 
Louis', and this produced a very good effect among the Liberals. 
He is no coward, and will say what he thinks, if it is necessary, 
even if all are against him. 

Kranichstein : July 15. 

To-day is Uncle Alexander's birthday, and we have to drive for 
dinner to Seeheim.' To-morrow morning we leave for Lich at five 
in the morning. 

Two nights ago a horrid and schanerUcTies [appalling] event took 
place here. 1 went out about eight down to the pond, which is 
close to the house, to meet Louis. 1 met an odd-looking pale man, 
who neither bowed nor looked about, walking slowly along; and 
when 1 joined Louis he asked me if 1 had seen him, as he had been 
prowling about all the afternoon. We stopped a Jittle longer, when 
at the end our grooms v^^ere running. We rowed on to see what 
was the matter, and on coming near, a body was floating in the 
water, the face already quiie blue and lifeless. 1 recognized him at 
once. Louis and the others with trouble fished him out and laid him 
in our boat tc bring him on shore. It was very horrid to see. We 
brought him on shore, tried all means to restore him to life, but of 
no avail. He was carried into the stable. He had committed sui- 
cide, and we heard afterward that he was a very bad character, 
Tou can fancy that it was very unpleasant to me, to have that dis- 
figured corpse next me in the boat: and it haunts me now — for a 
violent death leaves frightful traces, so unlike anything else. But 
half or quarter of an hour before, 1 had passed that man in life, and 
so shortly after to see him floating by quite lifeless! It brings death 
before one in its worst form, when one sees a bad man die by his 
own hand. The indifference with which the other people treated it, 
and dragged him along, was also revolting to one's feelings; but 
one must be manly, and not mind those things; yet I own it made 
me rather sick, and prevented my sleep that night. 

I am glad we are going away for a few days; the change will be 
pleasant. 

It was such a pleasure to me to have seen dear Lady Frances Bail- 
lie the other day, and she was looking well, though she is very thin. 

You kindly gave me our dear Papa's Farm Book for the Farmers' 
Union here; the people are so touched and pleased. 1 send you the 
letter of thanks to read. 

Lich : July 18. 

. . . "We leave to-morrow afternoon for Frankfort, and the 
next day we go to Homburg on the way home. The Prince and 
Princess are most kind and civil; they have a fine Schloss, and are 
rich. The latter is clever and amiable, and the young people— their 
nephews and nieces — are very nice and very kind. It is a fine rich 
country, and they seem very much beloved. The sister of the Prin- 
cess, Princess Solms-Laubach, nee Blidingen, is here also. Her 
husband was in the Prussian service, and they lived at Bonn whilst 
dear Papa was there. He came to see them and to spend the even- 
ing tnere veiy often. She told me how handsome he then was, and 
how much praised and liked by all. She asked after Rath Flor- 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 31 

schlitz,* after Eos.f and if dear Papa continued later on to be so 
sleepy of an evening, as he was even then. 

Kranichstein: JulySl.' 
Our visit at Lich went oS very well. Everything is so ' vor- 
nehm ' [in such good style] and so well arranged. 

July 23. 

"We are going to give Heinrich^ a rendezvous somewhere, per- 
haps at Kreuznach, which is not very far. On August 1 we are 
going to the north of the country — a part which 1 do not know — and 
on the way we stop at Giessen, where we have been invited to see an 
Agricultural Exhibition. On Monday we give a tea and a dance— 
between fifty and sixty people. The advantage of this place is its 
nearness to Darmstadt, and that there is room enough to receive peo- 
ple. 

The Russian and French embassadors, with their wives, and Mr. 
Corbett and Lord Robert S. K.err, dine with us to-day. 

July 27. 
I have no news to give. To-night we give our first large party 
— seventy people. 

August 1. 

Yesterday we were all day at Rumpenheim : so kindly received ! 
The Landgrave, his two brothers Frederic and George, the Dowager 
Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelilz, her daughter Duchess Caroline, 
Aunt Cambridge, Mary, Augusta and Adolphus ; Fritz and Anna 
of Hesse and good Princess Louise, kindness itself. Aunt Cam- 
bridge was very amiable, and spoke most tenderly of you. To-mor- 
row morning Louis goes to Oberhessen, where 1 join him in two 
days. 1 go to see Uncle Alexander at Jugenheim; go on Monday to 
Friedberg, where there is an asylum for blind people, of which 1 am 
Protectorin [Patroness]. I go to see it, and sleep at the Castle. The 
next day 1 stop on my road to see Marburg, and shall be in the even- 
ing at Alsfeld, where 1 find Louis. The next day 1 go on to Herr 
von Riedsel at Altenburg, where 1 breakfast, and 1 dine and spend 
the night with another Riedesel family at Eisenbach. Louis joins 
me that evening. The nest day we go on through the country, as 
the people are anxious to see us, and the country is very beautiful. 
On Thursday and Friday we shall be at Giessen, on Saturday at 
home. 

Giessen : August 7, 

1 am very hot and tired ; we have only just reached this place, 
and have to go out almost immediately to see the animals and ma- 
chines. 

Our journey has been most prosperous, but rather tiring, and Ihe 
heat quite fearful. We were most kindly received everywhere. 
English, Hessian, German flags everywhere, and " Gesangvereine " 
of an evening. 

* Tutor of Prince Consort during his boyhood and early youth. 
t A favorite greyhound of the Prince Consort's, which he brought to Eng- 
land at the time of his marriage. 
t Prince Henry of Hesse, brother of Prince Louis. 



32 ALICE, GEAFD DUCHESS OE HESSE. 

Last night we slept at Scliotten, and posted from thence to-day 
through a lovely, rich, wooded and mountainous district, the Vogels- 
berg. 

We have had but one room everywhere, and have remained only 
long enough at a place to see it, so that writing has been impossible. 
To-morrow evening we return to Kranichstein, and then I will write 
to you an account oi everything. Here, with no time, and such 
heat and noise, it is impossible. 

Kranichstein : August 9. 
. . . We went, when 1 last wrote to you at Giessen, to see the 
different machines at work, in a crowd close round us and a smoth- 
ering heat. It was interesting, though, in spite of all. The people 
cheered and were very civil. That day, at the meeting of the agri- 
culturists, Count Laubach told me dear Papa's book lay on the ta- 
ble, and is of the greatest use and Interest. 1 am so pleased to have 
been the first in Germany to make known something of Papa's 
knowledge in this science, one of the many in which dear Papa ex- 
ceHed. The people are so grateful to you for having sent it. In the 
evening the president and some other scientific gentlemen came to 
tea with us. 1 was so g'md to see how pleased the people were at the 
interest Louis takes in these things. A procession was really very 
pretty; large carts, decorated with the different agricultural em- 
blems, peasants in their different costumes — it was something quite 
new to me. 

At Marburg, I saw in the beautiful church the grave of St. Eliza- 
beth, the castle where she lived, and many other things which 
Kings] ey mentions in his Saint's Tragedy/. 

This week the Emperor of A.ustria and other potentates came to 
Frankfort. The King of Prussia has refused, so that now, as it is 
not a universal meeting, it will not be what it might have been. 

August 19. 

. . . The Emperor came all the way to Kranichstein to pay us 
a visit, and is vevj amiable, though not very talkative. Archduke 
William, King Max, and the Duke of Brunswick were also here 
yesterday. 

We saw the procession to the Eomer from a small room, already 
filled by twelve Rumpenheimers! It was a very interesting sight. 

August 31. 
. . . This evenins; all the crowned heads nearly are coming to 
the opera, and the Rumpenheimers very likely also. Uncle Ernest 
comes to us for dinner, and we take him with us. 

August 34. 

. . . We dined at Homburg yesterdays afternoon with the old 
Hereditary Grand Duchess of Schwei'in, Louis' great aunt, who" is 
eighty-six, and as fresh and lively as ever. The Duke of Altenburg 
and the Grand Duke of Schwerin were with us, and both of them 
wish to have their respectful duty sent to you. 

[During the months of September and October the Princess was 
in Englanil on a visit to the Queen.] 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OE HESSE. 33 

Buckingham Palace : October 28. 
Thousand thanks for your dear lines! How sad that we should 
be reduced to writing again! It was such a happiness to speak 1o 
you, and in return to hear all you had to say — to try and soothe you, 
and try to make your burden lighter. 1 always fee'l separation from 
you so much, for 1 feel for and with you, more, oh, far more, than 
I can ever express! 1 can only say again, trust, hope, and be coura- 
geous, and every day will bring something in the fulfillment of all 
your great duties — which will bring you peace, and make you feel 
that you are not forsaken, that God has heard your prayer, felt for 
you, as a loving Father would, and that dear Papa is not far from 
jou. 

We remain here to- night, as Louis had a bad sick-headache, tooth- 
ache and so on, and he must rest. "We leave to morrow afternoon. 

Alfie [Prince Alfred] and William (of Hesse) were very well, and 
seem quite happy together. Affie sends love, and William his re- 
spects. 

Darmstadt : November 2. 

Before going out (half -past six) I begin these lines. You will 
have heard what an awful passage we had. Christa and I had one 
of those cabins near the paddle-box, and good old May* was with 
us. Each wave that broke on the ship Christa and 1 groaned, and 
May exclaimed, "Oh, goodness, gracious me! what an awful sea! 
Lord bless you, child, 1 hope it is all safe!" and so on. If we had 
not been so' wretched, and had not looked so awful with those mount- 
ains of waves about us, 1 should have laughed. All the maids and 
Moftat were sick. Baby was sick all over her nice new shawl, 
which was a great grief. 

Uncle Louis and Uncle Gustav received us at the station. My 
parents-in-law don't return till Wednesday. Yesterday Uncle Louis 
gave us a large dinner, and to-day he dines en famille in our house 
with Prince Adalbert of Bavaria, Uncle Gustav, f and ourselves. 

I was quite done up by this journey. At four in the morning we 
changed carriages at Cologne, and did not get here till past twelve 
o'clock — twenty-nine hours under way. 

November 5. 

. . . Yesterday evening Louis and I were at a chemical lecture, 
which was very interesting, by young Hallnachs, the brother of the 
one Becker spoke to you about. 

Our house is getting on very well, and we are often there. 
Louis is very grateful and touched by your kind message, and 
liisses your hand. He is often away for those tiresome Jagdeu 
[shooling-parties] from five in the morning till eight at night, as it is 
some way off. 

November 14. 

lt"is not yet eight, and 1 have such cold fingers. The messenger 
leaves at nine — so I must write now. We are going to Mayence to- 
day, to see a house of our architect, Kraus, which is said to be very 
pretty and very English. 
1 paid Becker and his mother a visit yesterday. Their rooms are 

* 3Irs. Hull, a former nurse of the Princess and her brothers and sisters. 
t Prince Gustav Wasa, first cousin to Prince Charles of Hesse. 



34 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE, 

SO nice, pictures and presents from you and dear Papa in all direc- 
tions, remembrances of past, such happy, years! 

Yesterday also I drove Baby out in my little carriage. She sat on 
Christa's knees and looked about her so much; she went to sleep at 
last. 

November 17. 

. . . Yesterday 1 was all the morning with Julie Battenberg- 
buying Christmas presents. To-day also 1 am much occupied. "We 
get up at seven, with candles, every morning, as this is the best time 
for doing all business, and breakfast at eight. 

November 21. 

. . . The Holstein question, 1 fear, will lead to war, Fritz's* 
rights are so clear. And 1 am sure all Germany will help him to 
maintain his rights, for the cause is a just one. 

I am sure, dear Mamma, you are worried to death about it, which, 
is very hard, for you cannot undo what once exists. Anything only 
to avoid war! It would be a sad calamity for Germany, the end of 
which no one can foresee. 

My Baby has this morning cut her first tooth, and makes such 
faces if one ventures to touch her little mouth. 
■ To day I am going to visit the hospital in the town, which is said 
not to be good or well looked after. 1 want to be able to do some- 
thing for it and hope to succeed, for the people have plenty of 
money, only not the will. The Burgomaster and Gemeinderath [the 
T'own Councilors] will meet me there. 

I have just called into life what did not exist, that is, linen to be 
lent for the poor women in their confinements, and whicli I hope vnll 
he of use to them, for the dirt and discomfort are very great in those 
classes. 

November 28. 
. . . My visit to the hospital was very interesting, and the air 
was good, the place clean and fresh. There were few people dan- 
gerously ill there, and they looked well taken care of. Air and 
water are making their way into these places to the benefit of man- 
kind. 

1 was so much distressed the other day ; for the poor man who fell 
in our house has died. He was a soldier, and so respectable and in- 
dustrious, not above twenty-four. This is already the second who 
has died in consequence of a fall. 

Our visij; to Carlsruhe was very pleasant. The Queen [of Prussia] 
was there, and we spoke so much of you together. She enters quite 
into all your feelings, and perfectly understands all the sad trials 
and difficulties of your position in addition to your just and natural 
grief. 

November 30. 

A few words of love and affection from us both on this dear day 
— the third anniversary of the commencement of all our happiness, 
which dear Papa and you enabled us to form. 

Those happy days at Windsor and those awful days the year after! 
1 assure you the season, the days, all make me sad — for the impres- 
sion of those two years can never be wiped out of my mind. 1 can 

* The late Duke Frederic of Augustenburg. 



ALICE, GRANT* DUCHESS OF HESSE. 35 

write but a few liaes, as to-morrow we leave for Amorbach. and to- 
day 1 go with Louis out shooting. It is cold and fine, as it was two 
years ago. 

Darling Mamma, again and again we thanjj: you and beloved Papa 
for all your love to us at that time. 

Amorbach: Decembers. 

. . . We aiTived here at half -past four yesterday — after a bitter 
cold drive in an open carriage over hard roads, all being frozen, 
since ten in the morning. The country we came through was 
beautiful, though all white, up and down hill all the way, through 
many villages, through woods, &c. The house is large and com- 
fortable, full of souvenii-s ot dear Grrandmamma [Duchess of Kent], 
of Uncle Charles. • 

1 am so pleased to be with Ernest and Marie* — it is a bit of home 
again. 

Darmstadt : December 6. 
. . . Our visit to Amorbach was so pleasant, though the 
weather was bad. I was so happy to be once more with Ernest and 
Marie. Ed wardf was very amusing and good-natured. 1 saw poor 
old Wagner,:]: who wishes me to send you his duty. 

December 8. 
. . . Think, only yesterday evenmg at a concert they played 
Buy Bias, which I had not heard since Windsor. The room, the 
band, dear Papa, all came before me, and made my ieart sink at the 
thought that that belonged to the bright recollections of the past! I 
cried all the way home. Such trivial things sometimes awaken rec- 
ollections more vividly, and hurt more keenly, than scenes of real 
distress. 1 am sure you know what I mean. 

December 18. 

... 1 must close — my tears fall fast, and 1 ought not to make 
you sadder, when you are sad enough already. Pray for me when 
you kneel at Ms grave — pi ay that my happiness may be allowed to 
last long; think of me when you kneel there where on that day my 
hand rested on your and Papa's dear hands, two years ago. That 
bond between us both is so strong, beloved Mamma. I feel it as a 
legacy from him. 

December 23. 

A great pleasure 1 have had in arranging a tree for our good 
servants. I bought all the things myself at the market, and hung 
them on the tree; then 1 also got things for darling Louis. 

December 26. 
. . . We all had trees in one large room in the Palace, and our 
presents underneath it looked extremely pretty. Uncle Alexander's 
five children were there, and made such a noise with their play- 
things. 

Baby had a little tree early at her Grandpapa and Grandmamma's, 
with all her pretty things. 
Many thanks for the turkey pie; we give a dinner to-day in honor. 

* Prince and Princess of Leiningen, 

t Prince Leiningen's brother. 

t Former tutor to Prince Leiningen's father. 



36 ALICE, GRAND DUCKESS OF HESSE. 



1864. 

The year 1864 was a most eventful one for Gerbiany. After a 
severe struggle, the Duchies of Schleswig-Holstein were wrested 
from the control of the German Confederation or Diet at Frankfort,^ 
and occupied by Austrian and Prussian troops. The Princess's own 
life that year was full of joyful events, and no cloud of sorrow came 
to disturb her happiness. 

The marriage of Princess Anna of Hesse, which took place on the 
13th of May, was a cause of great rejoicing to the family. 

During the first months of "the year the Prince and Princess paid 
several short visits to Gotha, Carlsruhe and Munich, and in the 
summer spent three happy months in England. 

On their return to Germany they received numerous guests at 
Kranichstein. But in spite of the many social duties and distrac- 
tions in which the Princess took an active part, she never lost sight 
of more serious duties and pursuits. She became the " Protectress " 
of the " Heidenreich Institution for Lying-in Women," which was 
the beginning of the active interest afterward taken by her in_ all 
sanitary improvements. This interest was heightened by the birth 
of her second daughter, who was born on the 1st of November, 
1864, and christened on the 28th of that month, receiving the names 
Elizabeth Alexandra Louise Alice. The Princess was very proud 
of being able to nurse her child herself, and from this time she took 
up with the keenest interest all questions relating to the physical, 
mental, and moral training of children. She found an able sup- 
porter and independent adviser in Dr. Weber, a very eminent med- 
ical man, resident at Darmstadt. 

January 5. 
, . . The cold here is awful. I skated yesterday, and to-day 
we are going to the pond at Kranichstein. (Very few people skate 
here— only one lady, and she very badly.) Baby only goes out for 
half an hour in the middle of the day, well wrapped up. It would 
not do to keep her quite at heme, as she would become so sensitive 
w^hen first taken out again. Of course when it is windy or too cold 
she stops in. 

January 9. 

I was aghast on receiving Bertie's telegram this morning an- 
nouncing the birth of their little son. Oh, may dear Papa's bless- 
ing rest on the little one; may it turn out like dear Papa, and be a 
comfort and pride to you, and to its young parents! Youi first En- 
glish grandchild. Dear Mamma, my heart is so full. May dear Alix 
and the Baby only go on well ! 

January 16. 

... Baby says "Papa," "Mamma," and yesterday several 
times ".Louis." She imitates everything she hears, all noises and 
sounds ; she gets on her feet alone by a chair, and is across the room 
before one can turn round. Her adoration for Louis is touching. She 
stops always, since the summer, alone in our room, so she never cries- 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE/ 37 

for Moffat [her nurse], and is very happy on the floor with her play- 
things. She is a very clear little thing and gets on very fast, but 
equally in all things, and is as fat as she was. It is so interesting to 
watch the progress and development of such a little being ; and Baby 
is so expressive, she makes such a face when she is not pleased, and 
laughs so heartily when she is contented. She is more like a child 
of two years old a great deal. 

Gotha : January 22. 

After a very cold journey we arrived here on Wednesday 
afternoon. 1 found dear Uncle and Aunt well, Leopoldine (who is 
very dear and nice), and Hermann,* Edward and Marie Leiningen-, 
and Prince Lowenstein here. Only Hermann and Leopoldine live 
in the Castle besides us; the others are all at Uncle's house. 

January 30. 
. . . These poor Schleswig-Holsteiners do what they can to 
liberate themselves frotn the Danish yoke, and to regain their lawful 
sovereign, Fritz. And why is England, who stands up lor freedom 
of countries, who in Italy, where there was less cause, did what she 
could to liberate the country from her lawful sovereigns, to do what 
she can to prevent the Schleswig-Holsteiners from liberating them- 
selves from a king who has no right over them, merely because they 
are unfortunate good-natured Germans, who allow themselves tcr be 
oppressed? 

February 5. 

In the distance, dear Mamma, one really cannot judge correctly 
of reasons for or against things, when one does not exactly know 
how everything stands. 

February 14. 

. . . We have been in sledges to-day, and everybody drives 
about. the town in them; it sounds so pretty, all the jingling bells. 
. . . Shakespeare's words came home to him — 

Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown. 

Thank God, my husband has none! 1 thank the Almighty daily 
lor our peaceful homely life, in which sphere we can do a good deal 
of good to our fellow-creatures, without havjng to mix in those 
hateful politics. 

Our life is a very, very happy one. 1 have nothing on earth to 
wish for, and much as 1 loved my precious Louis when I mariied 
him, still more do 1 love him now and daily; for his character is 
worthy of love and respect, and a better husband or f athei , a more 
unselfish and kind one, there does not live. His love for you, you 
know ; and on our return how glad we shall be to be near you once 
more. 

February 16. 

Louis is in the Chamber to-day from nine till one, long enough 
at a stretch, and immediately after breakfast. We always breakfast 
at eight; then Louis sees the three officers who come every morning 
on his military business, then Westerweller and all othere who have 
business. We usually walk before luncheon, which is at twelve; 

* Prince and Princess Hermann of Hohenlohe-Langenburg. 



38 IlICE, GRAND DUCHESS OJ? HESSE. 

and often drive at two or tliree. At five we dine; at half -past six, 

theater, four times a week, till half -past nine; then we take tea 

together, Louis reads to me and I work. On other week-days there 

are concerts or parties. We are often in our new house, and in the 

garden, arranging things and watching the progress. We also go to 

lectures here, and are much occupied, which makes the day pass so 

quickly. 

^ "^ March 1. 

I have learned much since I married, and, above all, not to be 
dependent on others in my existence. To be able to make a bright 
and comfortable home for my dear husband is my constant aim; but 
even in this one often fails, for self constantly turns up, like a bad 
sixpence. Oh, how dear Papa spoke about that! His whole noble 
life was that one bright example of sacrificing himself to his duty. 
Dear, adored Tapa! such goodness, such love, when one thinks of 
it, must silence all complaints of petty troubles in the mouths of his 
children and servants. You, dear Mamma, are the one who suffers the 
most, though this awful loss has touched all; and to soothe your 
grief and to help you lightens one's own. 
. March 5. \ 

. . . Spring always makes me so we/iTOw^Mg' [sad], 1 don't know \ 
•why; one longs for everything and anything which is out of one's Ji 
reaSi 

I will tell you of something 1 did. the other day; but please 
tell no one, because not a soul but Louis and my ladies know 
of it here. 1 am the patroness of the " Heidenreich Stiftung," to 
which you also gave a handsome present in the beginning. The 
ladies who belong to it go to bring linen to poor respectable 
Wdclmerinnen [women in child-bed], who claim their tissistance. 
They bring them, food, and, in short, help them. All cases are re- 
ported to me. The other day 1 went to one incog, with Christa, in 
the old part of the town— and the trouble we had to find the house! 
At length, through a dirty courtyard, up a dark' ladder into one little 
room, where lay in one bed the poor woman and her baby; in the ' 
room four other children, the husband, two other beds, and a stove. 
But it did not smell bad, nor was it dirty. 1 sent Christa down with 
the children, then with the husband cooked -something for the woDi- 
an; arranged her bed a little, took her baby for her, bathed its eyes 
—for they were so bad, poor little thing!— and did odds and ends for 
her. 1 went twice. The people did not know me, and were so nice, 
so good and touchingly attached to each other; it did one's heart 
good to see such good feelings, in such poverty. The husband was 
out of work, the children too young to go to school, and they had 
only four kreuzers in the house when she was confined. Think of 
that misery and discomfort! 

If one never sees any poverty, and always lives in that cold circle 
of Court people, one's good feelings dry up, and 1 felt the want of 
going about and doing the little good that is in my power. 1 am 
sure you will understand this. 

March 14. 

My own dear precious Mamma, — These words are for the 
16th, the first hard trial of our lives, where 1 was allowed to be with 
you. Do you recollect when all was over [death of the Duchess of 



ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 39 

Kent], and dear Papa led you to the sofa in the colonnade, and 
then took me to you? 1 look that as a sacred request from him to 
love, cherish, and comfort my darling Mother to all the extent of my 
weak powers. Other things have taken me from being constantly 
■with jou; but nothing has lessened my intense love for you, and 
longing to quiet eveiy pain which touches you, and to fulfill, even 
in the distance, his request. 

Oh, darling Mamma, were there words in which 1 could express 
to you how much 1 am bound up with you, how constantly my 
thoughts and prayers are yours, 1 would write them. The sympa- 
thies of our souls can only tell each other how tender my love and 
gratitude to you is, and how vividly 1 feel every new trial or new 
thing with you and for you. . . . 

1 was with another poor woman, even worse o3, this morning, 
and on the third day she was walking in the room and nearly fainted 
from weakness. Those poor people! 

March 26. 
... Yesterday morning at nine we took the Sacrament — all the 
family and congregation together. The others then stopped for the 
rest 6t the service, till after eleven. 1 went home, and returned for 
the English service at twelve. At half -past six, in Ihe Stadtkirche, 
Bach's " Passion " was given. 

April 5. 

To-day is Victoria's birthday. "What a day it was this time last 
year! Baby has her table in the room next to my sitting-room. 
Uncle Louis and the rest of the family expected to breakfast with 
us at twelve. 

Munich: April 11. 

. . . To-day, for the first time since the King's death,* the 
Queen and we all with our Gefolge [suite] dined in the Winter Gar- 
den. It seemed to try her very much, but she is so wonderfully 
quiet that she scarcely shows it. 1 was three hours with her yester- 
day evening. She spoke so kindly of yuu and with such sympathy 
and Interest, and said, when dear Papa died, she had prayed for you 
so much. 

Munich : April 13. 

. . . Between sight-seeing, and going to the Queen's room, and 
being with her, 1 have not a moment scarcely to rest or wi'ite. Yes- 
terday we visited the whole Schloss full of frescoes, and the studios 
of all the fapous painters — so interesting. How dear Papa would 
have enjoyed it! 1 was thinking the whole time w^hat he would 
have thought of certain pictures, and how much he would have 
admired some. But at all times seeing things, and most of all pict- 
ures, is fatiguing. 

Darmstadt: April 21. 

. . . On Monday Louis goes into the country to shoot caper- 
cailzies \_Aner]idhne\. 1 accompany him part of the way, but stop 
at Schweinsberg with Christa's parents. "The air is very good there, 
and we thought the countiy would do me good. 
... "We shall leave probably later [for England], after or just 

* King Maximilian II. of Bavaria had died on the 10th of the preceding 
month of March, The Queen is a sister of Prince Louis's mother. 



40 ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

before your birthday. We have a great deal to do in London for 
our house, for which I should want a week; and from Windsor to 
leave you for a whole week 1 should not like, and to go up con- 
stantly is rather tiring. 

We go from Mayence to Rotterdam by steamer, from thence by 
rail to Antwerp, and then wait for good weather to cross, so that 
we shall be long under way, but quite easily and comfortably. 

April 25. 

. . . We shall leave the week of your birthday. Louis wishes 
us to have a full fortnight in London. 

Schweinsberg : April 28. 

. . . This is a charming country house, in a lovely healthy coun- 
try; the air has already done me much good. Christa's parents are 
charming, clever people, and the life is quiet and refreshing. Ou 
Saturday 1 expect Louis, and then we shall go home. 

Darmstadt: May 14. 
Many thanks for your letter, and above all for your great kind- 
ness about the ships, for which I thank you many times. 

Christa and Becker wrote an account of the wedding,* so I won't 
write any more about it save that it went off very weJl and was veiy 
vorneJini'and well-arranged. ... 

1 have borne the fatigues well ; but two days before, for two days 
and one night, 1 was very unwell. . . . Dr. Weber is a clever man, 
and is melseitig [many-sided] in his views on medicine and treatment 
of illnesses. 1 think you will like him. 

Baby runs alone through two rooms without falling now : she 
learnt it in a week. She will amuse you so much. Yesterday Louis 
drove me and his two brothers in a break, and Baby went with us 
miuch enchanted. 

May 17. 

. . . To-morrow afternoon Fritz and Anna leave. To-day the 
town gives a large ball, to which we all go, and before it there is a 
dinner at the Schloss. 

May 21. 

. . . It is excessively hot, which makes me so tired and weak. 
I am sure you suffered dreadfully from the heat. 

The parting from Anna three days ago was dreadful ; she so dis- 
tressed, and her parents also. . . . They begin their old age alone, 
so to say, for there are no children in their house any more. It 
makes us both very sad to leave them, and seems so unfeeling; but 
we shall return to them soon. What a blessing that you have Bea- 
trice and two brothers, still boys ; and yet, for one alone what an 
anxiety ! 

Marlborough House : May 26. 

Arrived here at half -past eleven, and quite rested. 1 at once write 
to you to thank you for your letter and for the great comfort of the 
ships. I feel so much better already from the air on the Rhine those 
two days, and the fresh sea air, that I have borne the journey this 

* Of the Princess Anna of Hesse with the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg- 
Schw^'in. 



ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 41 

way with but little fatigue. 1 find Bertie and Alix both looking 
well, and the babj^ so pretty and dear. 

I slept during the whole night passage, as I Avent to bed early. I 
had about twelve hours' sleep, which has completely set me up. 
Louis is paying visits. We have lunched, and in the afternoon Ber- 
tie and Alix have promised to call on Lady Augusta and Dean Stan- 
ley, and we join them. Aunt Cambridge and Mary we shall see 
aftei-ward. 

[From May to August the Princess was in England on a visit to 
the Queen.] 

Kranichstein : August 30. 
... I have stood the journej'' well, though 1 am rather fatigued. 
It is very warm. Louis is off to Jugenheim. 1 am to go there to- 
morrow, and it takes my whole day, as it is so far. 1 have seen 
none of the family yet. 1 am so distressed to part from dear Ernest 
and Marie, they were so dear and good all along the journey. The 
weather was beautiful and the passage good. 

September 2. 

... 1 am so glad that, from all accounts, everything went oft 
so very well at Perth;* it must have been most trying to you, and yet 
satisfactory. "We read all the accounts you kindly sent us with much 
interest. 

. . . The Emperor [of Russia] with his second and third sons- 
arrived yesterday. We saw him at the station at Darmstadt, but did 
not join them as the rest of the family did. We go to Jugenheim 
to-day and Baby with us, as little Serge.f who is just Beatrice's age, 
has such a passion for her. The children are very nice, the two 
older sons very big. Uncle Gustav is here, which makes me think 
of you here this time last year. . 

Septemjtei" 13- 

. . . Two days ago we had intense heat, and since great cold— 
the two extremes constantly, which is so unwholesome. The Em- 
peror is very grateful for your message, and sends his best remem- 
brance. . . . There were seven young men to dinner yesterday, 
and your glass was used for the first time and looked so pretty. 

September 17. 

, . . The Emperor and Empress [of Russia] before leaving took • 
a most tender farewell of us, and she gave me their Order. They 
returned to Darmstadt on the 27th for a fortnight, as it is now set- 
tled that the Empress is to spend the winter at Nice, and she may 
not go there till the beginning of October at the soonest, as it would 
be too warm. 

. . . We are in the middle of the second volume of Froude,t but 
it is too detailed to interest you ; you have far too much to do to be 
interested in it. . . . Robertson's beautiful sermons we have also 

* The unveiling of a statue of the Prince Consort. 

1- Grand Duke Serge. 

t The History of England from the Fall of Wolsey to the Death of Eliza- 
beth, 



42 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

read together, and I have discovered that a German translation es- 
ists, and have ordered one. 

Mrs. Hardlnge* leaves me the end of this month, 1 am sorry to 
say ; for she is very nice, discreet and ready to do anything, and not 
at all of the present bad English genre. 

September 20. 
. . . What you say about the poor sisters, and indeed of all the 
younger ones, is true. The little brothers and Beatrice are those 
who have lost the most, poor little things! 1 can't bear to think of 
it, for dear Papa, more peculiarly than any other father, was 
wanted for his children; and he was the dear friend, and even play- 
fellow, besides. Such a loss as ours is indeed unique. Time only 
increases its magnitude, and the knowledge of the want is felt more 
keenly. 

... 1 was yesterday in our little house, arranging and clearing 
out the rooms. We shall have very close quarters, but it will not 
be uncomfortable. 

.> . . 1 often wish dear Papa could have seen what a treasure 1 
have in my darling; but 1 am sure he does see it, and his blessing 
with yours rests on us, tor we seem not separated from either of 
you, our life is so interwoven with yours. 

Where people are unselfish, loving, good, and industrious, like 
my dear Louis, I always feel a certain likeness beginning to grow 
up with our dear angel Father! Don't you? Oh, may we all only 
become like him! 1 struggle so haid, dear Mamma, in the many lit- 
tle trials I daily have, to become more like him. Mj trials melt 
away when 1 think of you, and I wish 1 were great and strong to 
be able to bear some of your great . trials for you. Dear Mamma, 
how I love you ! how we both love you, and would shield you with 
our love from all new blows and trials, you know. God comfort 
you! My heart is often too full to say all that is in it; to tell you 
all my love and devotion, for your own precious sake, and for dear 
Papa's, who left you as a legacy to us all to love and to cherish for 
him. 

September 23. 
To-morrow Louis, 1 and my two ladies take the Sacrament in the 
little church here. 1 wished much to take it before my hour of trial 
comes. Dear Louis read to me yesterday evening Robertson's ser-. 
• mon on the " Sympathy of Christ." 

We have fine autumn weather, and 1 am out as much as 1 
can. . . . I sleep well and bieakfast always at half-past eight; we 
dine at two, and take supper at eight, then my ladies read aloud, and 
1 work or Christa plays, Louis reads his papers, &c. To myself 1 
read Lord Malmesbury's Memoirs, which are very curious, and 
when Louis has time he reads Froude to me. 

Kranichstein : October 4. 
. . . To-morrow dear Uncle Leopold [King of the Belgians] 
comes for a few hours. Louis will go to Darmstadt or Mayence to 
meet him, and 1 will receive him at the station, as none of the fam- 

* Wife of General the Hon. Arthur Hardinge, who was on a visit to the 
Princess, 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 43 

ily know hina. Louis is out shooting with the Emperor. Uncle 
Alexander's throat has already begun to be bad again. 

... 1 am writing quite a confused letter in the midst of house- 
hold troubles, for the Emperor and Empress have just let me know 
that they wish to breakfast here, and Louis is out, and 1 don't 
know where or how to have tne things in our small menage. 

1 must therefore conclude and do my business. 

October 1. 
... 1 had the pleasure of seeing dear Uncle two days ago look- 
ing wonderfully well, and kind and dear as ever. . . . To-day I 
must go to a large fjunily dinner. Fritz and Anna of Hesse, Grand 
Duchess Marie, and Prince and Princess William of Baden, besides 
ourselves, the family, and the Emperor and Empress. 

Darmstadt : October 14. 
We are at length here, in great disorder, and I have been waiting 
half an hour onlj'- for a pen to be found. 1 am tired and not very 
well. ... Augusta [Lady Augusta Stanley] being with you 1 am 
very glad of, and she must be such a comfort to you, for, besides 
being such a friend, she has that peculiar charm of manner which 
all the Biuces possess. 

October 21. 
... I am so grieved about poor Louise; she will want much 
care and attention. 

Lady Car. [Caroline Barrington] is here since yesterday evening, 
to my great delight, and is not looking the worse for her journey. 

October 29. 
. . . To-moirow we expect Vicky and Fritz [Crown Prince and 
Princess of Prussia] for two hours, and later Bertie and Alix ou 
their way back from Amorbach, for a few hours. 1 shall be de- 
lighted to see them. 

- October 31. 
. . . Yesterday we had the pleasure of having dear Vicky and 
Fritz and baby here for two hours, the former well and in suc^ 
good looks, as 1 have not seen her for long. The baby is a love, and 
very pretty. We were very glad after a year's separation to meet 
again, and Vicky was so dear and loving. 1 always admire her 
understanding and brightness each time 1 see her again; and Fritz 
so good, so excellent. Bertie and Alix we expect in a day or two for 
a short visit. It is very cold, but not unpleasant. 1 go out twice a 
day. ^ 

Darmstadt : November 7. 
. . . The little daughter* was but a momentaiy disappointment 
to us, which we have quite got over. We console ourselves with the 
idea that the little pair will look very pretty together. 

November 20. 
. . . We are both very much pleased at the arrangement about 
Brown and your pony, and 1 think it is so sensible. 1 am sure it will 

* The Princess Elizabeth was born on the 1st of November, 1864. 



44 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

do you good, and relieve a little the monotonj^ of your out-of-door 
existence, besides doing your nerves good. I had long wished you 
would do something of the kind; for, indeed, only driving is not 
wholesome. ... I have had two drives, which have done me 
good. . . . My mother-in-law has been kindness itself all along — so 
attentive and yet so discreet. 1 can't be grateful enough. My good 
father-in-law also. . . . Louis' mother is to be godmother, because 
it is customary here to ask some one of the name tne child is to re- 
ceive to stand on the occasion. We liked Elizabeth on account of 
St. Elizabeth being the ancestress of the Hessian as well as the 
Saxon House. 

November 26. 

. . . We probably go to Carlsruhe on Wednesday, the only place 
can well go to near by; we can't take an inn at Baden or anything 
of that sort, and we only go for a week or ten days at most. ... 1 
am very well and very careful ; all people say I look better, and 
have more color than 1 have had for long, and, indeed, I feel strong 
and well, and my fat Baby does perfectly, and is a great darling. 
Affle and Louis and his brother are out shooting. The horrid 
weather has kept me in these three days. 

November 29. 

. . . I ought to mention the christening. My mother-in-law held 
Baby all the time, and it screamed a good deal. Victoria stood with 
us and was very good, only kneeling down and tumbling over the 
footstool every two minutes, and she kept whispering to me, " Go 
to Uncle's" 1 thought so much of the christening last year, when 
Yictoria behaved much better than her larger dark sister. Ella 
measured twenty-three and a half-inches a fortnight ago, and she 
had not grown then. Victoria, 1 believe, was twenty inches. 

Carlsruhe: Decembers. 
. . . Dear Dr. Macleod is coming with Affie to Darmstadt for the 
14th. Vicky and Fritz will be with us also. How kind of him to 
come, and it has made Affie so happy, for he is so devoted to him. 

Darmstadt : December 10. 
. . . We returned here yesterday, after a very pleasant stay at 
Carlsruhe. It was very quiet, and we were always enfamille. We 
had the opportunity of speaking much with Fritz, who is in every 
way so distinguished, and dear Louise is so good and kind. 

I nave very little time to write to-day, as we arrived late lasl night. 
Louis has to be absent to-day, so 1 have a great deal to do. 

December 15. 
I had not a moment to mj^self to write to you yesterday, and to 
thank you for the kind lines you senfme through dear Dr. Macleod. 
He gave us a most beautiful service, a sermon giving an outline of 
dear Papa's noble, great and good character, and there were most 
beautiful allusions to you in his prayer, in which we all prayed to- 
gether most earnestly for you, precious Mamma! 

We talked long together afterward about dear Papa, and about 
you, and though absent were very near you in thought and prayer. 

Dear Vicky talked so lovingly and tenderly of you, and of how 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 45 

homesick she sometimes felt. She was not with us on that dreadful 
day three years ago, and that is so painful to her. Dear Affie was, 
as we all were, so much overcome by all Dr. Macleod said. Yicky, 
Afl3e, Louis and myself sat in the little dining-room ; lie read to us 
there. Fritz had left early in the morning. The day was passed 
quietly and peaceably together, and 1 was most grateful to have dear 
Yicky and Affie with me on that day. My dear Louis wishes me to 
express to you how tenderly he thought of you and with what sym- 
pathy on this sad anniversary. Never can we cease talking of home, 
of you and of all your trials. God bless and comfort you, my own 
dear Mamma! 



1865 

In the month of January of this year the Prince and Princess 
were at last able to carry out their intentions of visiting Berlin, which 
had several times been postponed. The Princess met with the 
gieatest kindness and attention from the King and Queen of Prussia, 
who had been much attached to her since her childhood. 

A great grief fell upon the Grand Ducal family through the death 
of the young Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, Prince 
Louis's only sister, whose recent marriage had given so much satis- 
faction to the family, and who died on the 16th of April, a few days 
after giving birth to a daughter. 

About the same time, the Cesarewitch Nicholas, eldest son of the 
Emperor of Russia, died at Nice. He was his mother's favorite son, 
and had been engaged to be married to Princess Dagmar of Den- 
mark (present Empress of Russia), the sister of the Princess of 
Wales. Princess Alice endeavored with all a daughter's love and 
sympathy to cheer her parents-in-law under their heavy bereavement. 

While the Prince and Princess were absent in. Switzerland at the 
Rigi Kaltbad in the Bernese Alps, Queen Victoria spent one day at 
Kranichstein, and on the 26th of August gathered all her cbildren 
round her at Coburg. On that day the Prince Consort's statue on 
the market-place at Coburg was unveiled. 

The yearly visit to England took place in the autumn, and the 
Prince and Princess spent a longer time than usual in the High- 
lands, where they made many delightful excursions. 

Soon after their return to Germany, the sad news reached them 
of the death of the King of the Belgians. Endeared by his personal 
character to his family and friends, he was also by reason of his 
statesmanlike qualities recognized as one of the most remarkable 
sovereigns of Europe. 

Although Princess Alice had lived but a short tirne at Darmstadt, 
she had already become the acknowledged center of social life in 
that town. Her liberal and independent spirit, conflicting as it did 
with many local prejudices, exposed her to many criticisms ; still, no 
one who came in contact with her could resist the charm of her ap- 
pearance and manner. The Princess had, so to speak, not ' yet taken 
root ' in her adopted country; but, acute and close observer as she 
was, she soon found where her own sphere of occupation lay, and 
what the agencies were by which she could work out her plans. 



46 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Her letters sliow tlie love slie bore to her new family, and the 
many useful enterprises 'which she now initiated for the wellbeing 
of the country. 

January 1. 

. . . Thousand thanks for your dear words, and for the wishes! 
1 was thinking so much of you and of home, when your letter came 
in. It made me so happy 1 Darling Mamma, lean feel so much 
with and for you during these days. 1 was all day on the verge of 
tears, for the very word Neujalir brought Papa and Grandmamma, 
and all at Windsor as in former days, so vividly before me, it made 
my heart ache! That bright happy past, particularly those last 
years, when I was the eldest at home, and had the privilege of being 
60 much with you both, my own dearly loved parents, is a remem- 
brance deeply graven, and with letters of gold, upon my heart. All 
the morning I was telling Louis how it used to be at home, and how 
we all assembled outside your dressing-room door to scream in 
chorus " Prosit Neujalir!" and to give to you and Papa our drawings, 
writings, &c., the busy occupation of previous weeks. Then play- 
ing and reciting our pieces, where we often stuck fast, and dear 
Papa bit his lip so as not to laugh; our walk to the Riding-school 
[where the alms to the poor were distributed], and then to Frogmore. 
Those were happy days, and the verj' remembrance of them must 
bring a gleam of sunshine even to ydh, dear Mamma. Those two 
dinners, when 1 was with you both, were such happy evenings. 1 
am so grateful I remained at home, and lost not a day of those 
happy ones. 

At eight this morning we two went to church ; at half -past three 
there was a large dinner at the Schloss. I wore the bracelet with 
your pictin-es, as I always do on all particular days, for 1 like to be 
able to look at those dear faces. 

January 3. 

We mean to go out sledging. The cold, and all the ground 
being white this last month, has given me such bad ej'es. I can do 
nothing of an evening at all, and reading even by daylight makes 
them so bad that they get qiiite red. The ladies read to me, instead, 
all sorts of instructive things. Louis has already found time to 
read through a whole volume of the Lims of the Engineers* You 
could not have sent anything that would interest him more. He 
thanks you so much for the pretty New Tear's wish also. 

January 14. 
Thousand thanks for your dear letter, for the nice inclosure 
from Dr. Macleod, and for the beautiful sermon by Dean Stanley. 
One remark struck me as singularly applicable to dear Papa, where 
he says: " To die is gain; to be no longer vexed with the sight of 
evil, which they cannot contiol," &c. — for dear Papa suffered when 
he saw others do wrong; it pained that good pure spirit: and though 
we long for him and want him, if we could call him back — even 
you who want him so much, 1 think, would pause before you gave 
vent to the wish that would recall him. . , . 

* By Dr. Samuel Smiles. 



ALICE, GRA.ND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 47 

"WTien trials come what alone save faith and hope in a blessed 
future can sustain one ! 

. . . You can't think how much 1 am interested in every little 
detail of your daily life. Besides, you know it cannot be otherwise. 
Please say kindest things to Brown,* who must be a great conven- 
ience to you. 

January 20. 

. . . The more one studies and tries to understand those won- 
derful laws which rule the world, the more one wonders, worships, 
and admires that which to us is so incomprehensible; and 1 always 
wonder how there can be dissatisfied and grumbling people in this 
beautiful world so far too good for our deserts, and where, after our 
duty is done, we hope to be everlastingly with those we love, .where 
the joy will be so great and lasting that present sorrow and trouble 
must melt away before that sunshine. 

January 33. 

. . . We have rain and warm high wind, and leave at four 
o'clock this afternoon. Ella has her bath as a bed, and Victoria sleeps 
in the bassinet, which is done up with chintz for the occasion. I 
don't think they can catch cold. There is a stove in the center com- 
partment besides. You can fancy 1 feel shy going to Berlin into a 
perfectly new society; and 1 have been so little out on the whole 
since the year 1861. Marie Grancyf goes with us. 

Berlin : January 29. 
. . . The journey went off very well, and we are so hapy to be 
here. Vicky and Fritz are kindness itself, and Vicky so dear, so 
loving! 1 feel it does me good, that there is a reflection of Papa's 
great mind in her. He loved her so much, and was so proud of her. 
The King is, as always, very kind, and so pleased to see us here. 
Louis is very happy to meet his old comrades again, and they 
equally so to see him; and 1 am so glad that he can have this amuse- 
ment at least, for he is so kind in not leaving me— and oui- life must 
be rather doll sometimes for a young man of spirit like him. 

Berlin: February 1. 
. . . AflBe arrived at eight this morning. 1 am sure the King 
will be so pleased at your having let him come now. He is so kind 
to me; it touches me very much, for 1 have never done anything to 
deserve it, 

Berlin : February 4. 
... I have not been sight-seeing anywhere, as it is too cold for 
that. We drive in a shut carriage, and then walk in the Thiergar- 
ten. We spend the whole day together, which is a great enjoyment 
to me, and of an evening we go out together. It is so pleasant to 
have a sister to go out with, and all the people are so kind and civil 
to us. 

Sigismund:}: is the greatest darling 1 have ever seen — so wonder- 

♦ John Brown, the Queen's faithful personal attendant, 
t One of the Princess's ladies in waiting. 
t Then the Crown Princess's youngest child. 



48 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

fully strong and advanced for his age—with such fine color, always 
laughing, and so lively he nearly jumps out of our arms. 

This house is very comfortable, and Vicky is surrounded with 
pictures of you and dear Papa — near her bed, on all her tables — and 
such endless souvenirs of our childhood: it made me quite weMiuthig 
[sad] to see all the things 1 had not seen for seven years, and since we 
lived together as children— souvenirs of Christmases and birthdays 
from you both, and from dear Grandmamma, from Aunt Gloucester, 
&c. It awakened a thousand old remembrances of happy past 
times. 

Berlin: February 7, 
. . . How much do 1 think of you now, the happy Silver Wed- 
ding that would have been, where you could have been surrounded 
hy so' many of us ! Poor Mamma, 1 do feel so deeply for you. 
Oh, may I be long, if not altogether, spared so awful a calamity! 

Morning, noon, and night do 1 thank the Almighty for oiir happi- 
ness, and pray that it may last. 

These lines are for the dear 10th* though they will reach you on 
the eve; and they are to tell you from Louis and myself how ten- 
derly we think of you on that day, and of darling Papa, who made 
that day what it was. It will be a day of great trial to you, 1 
fear. May the Almighty give you strength and courage to bear it ! 
I am sure the dear sisters and brothers who are at home will try to 
cheer you with their different loving ways — above all, little Beatrice, 
the youngest of us all. 

Louis goes to Schwerin to-morrow until Friday. They wanted 
us to go together, but one journey is enough at this time of the year, 

Berlim February 11. 
. . . We have been sledging these two days; it is very cold, 
and the rooms mostly very hot. When we go out of an evening, 
we are packed up from head to foot. My dear Louis returned from 
Schwerin at five this morning, pleased with his visit. He found the 
Castle fine and comfortable, and its inmates very happy. 

Berlin : February 14. 
. . . We leave next Saturday. 1 shall be so sorry to leave dear 
Vicky, for she is often so much alone. Fritz is really so excel- 
lent, it is a pleasure to look at his dear good face ; and he is worked 
so hard — no health can stand it in the long run. 

Berlin : February 17. 
. . . This will be my last letter from here, and 1 only regret 
leaving here on account of parting with dear Vicky and Fritz, 
whom we see so rarely, and usually but for a short time. I have 
passed such pleasant hours with dear Vicky; that is what I shall 
look back to with so much pleasure and satisfaction. 

Darmstadt: February 31. 
I write once more from our dear little home, which 1 find veiy 
cold ; snow and ice everywhere still — it seems as if winter would. 

* The anniversary of the Queen's marriage. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 4S 

never end, "We accomplished our journey very well. Poor Vicky- 
will miss us very much, I fear, in the many hours when she is alone, 
and which we spent together. Writing does not make up for it. 

We give a lai'ge marked ball in the Palace at Fastnacht [Shrove 
Tuesday], which is to-day week. It is the first thing we do for the 
society, and 1 hope it will go off well. 1 found so much to do since 
mj^ retnrn that 1 can write no more. 

Before closing 1 must mention, though, that yesterday evening I 
heard EUjali beautifully given. How I thought of dear Papa! 
Nearly every note brought back to mind observations he made about 
it. I thought 1 could see him, and hear his dear sweet voice turning 
round to me with quite watery eyes, saying, " Es ist doch gar zu 
schon!" [" It is really quite too lovely!"] 

Adored Papa! how he loved this fine music, the harmony in it 
seems like the harmony of souls, and Mendelssohn's music is so 
good, fromm [pious] — 1 mean, it makes one better to hear it. In the 
second part, in an air of Elijah toward the end, 1 found the part 
from which those beautiful responses are taken which Cusins 
arranged, and which Papa liked so much. 

February 27. 
... 1 can write but a very short letter to-day, having so 
much to do for our ball. I have made a sketch of my costume, 
which is the same 1 wore at Berlin at the masked ball of the Put- 
buses. Louis wears part of the Garter costume. 

March 4. 
. . . My parents-in-law leave the middle of this month for 
Schwerin. . . . My mother-in-law fears that Anna will be badly 
managed and treated quite after the old fashion, and she won't be 
able to help her, she fears. Anna is not very strong, and if she is 
starved and kept from the air, it will certainly do her harm. 

1 have written to dear Tilla.* To think of home without her 
seems too sad, but I hope you will invite her sometimes. Everyone, 
liked her in the house, she was so gentle and so kind. I shall never 
forget what I owe her, and 1 ever loved her most dearly. But she 
has never been the same again since 1861. It gave her a dreadful 
shock; she had such a veneration for darling Papa. 

1 hope this year we can show you our house, though it will not be 
far enough advanced for you to live in. For another year, 1 hope, 
we could make you so comforable. 

Darmstadt : March 6. 

... I am reading at this moment a book by Herr von Ar- 
neth — the publication of letters from Maria Theresa to Marie 
Antoinette from 1770-80. 1 recommend it to you. The letters are 
short and interesting, and it would amuse you to take it up now and 
then, when you have a leisure moment. The advice the Empress 
gives her daughter is so good ; she was a very wise mother. 

I have read and studied a great deal about the human body; about 
children — their treatment, &c. It interests me immensely. Besides, 
it is always useful to know such things, so that one is not perfectly 
ignorant of the reasons why doctors wish one to do certain things, 

* Miss Hildyard, the Princess's former English governess. 



50 ALICE, GRA.KD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

and why not. In any moment of illness, before there is iime for a 
doctor to come, one can be able to help one's self a little. 1 know 
you don't like these things, and where one is surrounded by such as 
dear Sir James [Clark] and Dr. Jenner, it is perfectly unnecessary 
and pleasanter not to know a good deal. Instead of finding it dis- 
gusting, it only fills me with admiration to see how wonderfully we 
are made. 

Darmstadt : March 11. 

. . . Westerweller does not accompany ua this time to Eng- 
land; he may join us in June. A former playfellow of Louis, Fer- 
dinand Rabenau, accompanies us. Afiie knows him and likes him. 
We think of starting on the 3rd, and passing by Brussels to see dear 
Uncle Leopold. Uncle Louis is still at Nice, and does not return 
here, it seems, until the Emperor and Empress meet for April 24th 
—the Emperor's biithday. Mj mother-in-law is- very grateful for 
your kind message. She seems very nervous about Anna. 

Victoria is teething, which makes her pale and poorly. Ella's vac- 
cination did not take, and we have the small-pox here. 

March 18. 
My poor children have been confined to the house with dreadful 
colds and coughs. Victoria looks the most pulled, though Ella's 
cough was much more violent. 1 am happy to say that they are 
really better to-day ; but we have snow every day, and that makes 
their recovery slowei. 

Yesterday night part of a large seed manufactury close by, near 
the artillery barracks, was burnt down. The flames were enormous, 
but the damage done was not great. 

My parents-in-law are in Berlin, and after to-morrow they go to 
Schwerin. 

Last night we heard Coslfan tutte given to perfection. The 
music is most charming, and I had never heard it before. 

April 1. 

. . . Since some days the snow is many feet deep; one can 
get about in sledges, and Louis drove me in one with four horses 
this morning. All intercourse by carriage is impossible, and this is 
very inconvenient to the people in the country when their "-Post " 
cannot drive. 

April 4. 

I must begin by telling you how much pleasure your telegram 
has given me. It is like my own dear Mamma to have her arms 
open for those who want her kind support; and 1 can only repeat 
again, that with you, and under your care alone, should 1 like to 
leave my little ones so long! To them, indeed, it will in every way 
be an advantage, and I shall be quite easy in leaving them there, 
where 1 know they will have every care which can be given; and it 
would make us both so happy to feel that in this way we could give 
you some little pleasure. 

Westerweller and Becker both wish very much we may take 
this winter. D. V. , for a journey. As long as we have fewer serv- 
ants and this small house, it, is easy to break up the whole establish- 
ment—later, this will be-less possible. Louis has never been able to 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE, 51 

travel, and the advantage of seein,^ other parts of the world would 
be so great for him. Without me he would not dp it; he says, alone 
he should not enjoy it. 1 urge this journey principally for his sake, 
and 1 hope you will support me in this. Since our marriage we have 
seen nothing, and all who can try to enlarge their knowledge. From 
hooks alone it becomes tedious and less advantageous. 

Victoria is going to have a party of thirty children to-morrow in 
Prince Charles's rooms. The snow is thawing at length, and the 
sun is much too hot. The sudden spring is not pleasant. We have 
been out riding, and this evening 1 shall accompany Louis to the 
Schnepfenstrich [woodcock-shooting*], which in a fine evening, 
when the birds sing, is lovely. . . . 

April 8. 
. . . We shall be delighted to receive you in Kranichstein, 
and if you will send your suite all to Darmstadt we shall be able to 
arrange, though we have not one spare room anywhere, and I feet 
you will be rather squeezed. How 1 look forward to meeting you 
again, after a year of separation, I can't say; and I am so glad that it 
will be under our roof that our joyful embrace will take place. As 
Uncle Louis is to have the Garter, may not Afhe bring it to him 
without ceremony? He would like it so much better, if it can be so. 

On the 17th Louis goes to Oberhessen to shoot capercailzies, and 
he deposits me and the children at Lich on his way, where he will 
join us again for my birthday. 

Anna was safely delivered of a little girl this morning, and is 
doing well. 

April 15. 

. . . We have been very anxious about Anuaf the last few 
days, for she has had fever since the 9th, and shivering still yesterday. 

We have a great deal to do this morning, so 1 can write but 
shortly. 

We have fine weather at length, and are out a great deal. 

Yesterday we took the Sacrament at nine, and numbers of people 
with lis. Tiie service lasted till past eleven, with a pause between. 

April 18. 

This is really a dreadfully sad death in our family, and will be 
a blow to my dear parents-in-law, whicn will weigh them down for 
many a day. They who lived so retired, and to whom the family 
life was all — Anna the pet — " das Prinzesschen, " whom they gave 
up so unwillingly, and with whom they corresponded daily! It will 
be a blank in their existence, which 1 can't bear to think of! Such 
tender loving parents! My poor Louis was dreadfully distressed, 
though he feared the worst all along since we knew that Anna had 
fever. He left with Grolmann, having passed a dreadful morning. 
All the old servants, tutors, friends, came crying to us. Since he is 
gone 1 have passed sad lonely hours: and poor old Amelung| comes 

♦ This sport is practiced in the evening twilight. 

t Prince Louis's sister, the Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin. She 
died on the 16th of April, 1865. 
X Nurse of the Prince Louis and his brothers and aister. 



52 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

and sits in my room, sobbing tliat she should ever bave lived to see 
this day. 

Yesterday morning I went to the Rosenhohe andpicked flowers 
from Anna's garden, and wound a large wreath, which 1 have sent 
to Louis to place on her cotfin. The three brothers feel it dreadfully 
— the first rent in the family circle is always hard to bear, aindsheso 
young, so good, so happy! 1 hear the poor little baby is nice. 

Yesterday night Anna was taken into the Schlosskirche [Palace 
Chapel] upon Louis's arrival, after a journey of twenty-seven hours. 
I hope he won't be ill after all this Gemiithsbewegung [strain upon 
his feelings], and fatigue always upsets him and makes him sick, 
and he feels all so deeply and warmly. It is so shocking. 1 can 
think of nothing else; and I am very low and sad being so alone, 
and the warm weather makes one unwell. 

The poor Cesarewitch has passed a tolerable night. 3. fear he is 
so reduced he can't get through it. The Empress doats on this son, 
and he is so like her. The poor Emperor has left for Nice. 

April 21. 

Oh, it is sad, very sad! Life indeed is but a short journey, on 
which we have our duty to do, and in which joy and sorrow alter- 
nately prevail. Anna was very good, very unselfish, and a true 
Christian, with her gentle, humble spirit, and as such she was loved 
and admired. What rare people my parents-in-law and their chil- 
dren are, 1 can't tell you— -such childlike faith, such pure unselfish 
love to each other; I really feel unworthy to belong to them, and 
they are dear to me beyond description. As I have shared their 
joys, so with all my heart do 1 share their sorrow, and fervently 
pray for them ! You will understand this, darling Mamma. From 
you I have inherited an ardent and sympathizing spirit, and feel the 
pain of those 1 love as though it were my own. To-morrow 1 have 
wished that there should be in the Palace Chapel a funeral service 
at the same time as the funeral at Schwerin, and all the people here 
seemed pleased at my wish. Bender, who taught her, confirmed 
her, and who married her not a year ago in that very church, will 
perform the service. 

Poor Dagmar! what a journey for her, poor child! She begins 
her troubles early enough. 

April 24. 

. . . Many thanks for your kind letter, and for all the kind 
wishes for my birthday. It will be sad and quiet; but 1 hope my 
beloved Louis will arrive to-night, and be with me again— such 
cause for joy and thankfulness. When 1 have Mm, all sorrow is 
turned into peace and happiness. Could I but know you still had 
darling Papa at your side, how light would my heart be ! Once 
when we have all fulfilled our allotted duties, and overcome that 
dark night, then, please God, we shall be together, never again to 
part! 

The sympathy of all does my sorrowing family good, for it soothes 
so much! 1 bad a few lines, so tender, so full of faith, from my 
dear mother-in-law to-day. Since Ella's birth I know to understand 
and love her most dearly. She suffered dreadfully, but no com- 
plaint passes her lips. She consoles her husband, her son-in-law, 



ALICE, GEAN'D DUCHESS OF HESSE. 63 

and this, with her prayer, enables her to hear that which has almost 
broken her heart. 

April 35. 

. . . Dear Louis returned last night well, and bringing good 
accounts of his parents. They remain there still a little longer, to 
arrange Anna's things. At Frankfort, at eleven last night, we met; 
it was so wami. 

The poor Cesarewitch is gone! The Emperor and Empress are 
coming here in ten days; w^hat sad meetings! 

How warm it has been daily since a fortnight, 1 can't tell you! 
, We sit all day in the garden, lake tea there, drawing-lessons, &c. 

i April 29. 

1 thank you so much for your kind sympathizing letter. All 
my family are so grateful for all the kindness and sympathy you 
have shown tUem on this sad occasion. 

To-day Uncle Louis arrives; on Monday the Emperor and Em- 
press, and children. What a sad meeting! They go to Jugenheim 
direct, where last year they were so happy all together. I hear the 
Empress is worn out, mind and body; and she insists, instead of fin- 
ishing her cure, on going in a fortnight to St. Petersburg to meet the 
remains of her child, and to do him the last honors. Louis fears 
that it will be more than her feeble frame can endure. In the Greek 
Church, too, the night Masses are long and exhausting, and she is 
sure to wish to do all. 

We spent my birthday as every other day, and the weather was 
heavenly. I am painting in oil now, and that interests me much. I 
find it much easier than water-colors. 

1 hope Affie will come to pay his respects to the Eussians. If you 
send them a kind message through him, it would please them much. 

May 3. 

. . . How well 1 understand your compassion being alike for 
mourners in all positions of life. It is but right and natural, and I 
can't imagine one's feeling otherwise. 

May 6. 

To-morrow morning my poor parents-in-law arrive. What a 
meeting, and what a return! My father-in-law and the Empress* 
are each other's favorites, and understand each other so perfectly. 
It will be a consolation to both to pour their hearts out to each other, 
and share each other's sorrow. My dear father-in-law wrote to Aunt 
Marie: " Although my heart is sorely depressed, yet it is even more 
filled with gratitude than with sorrow, that the good God has given 
us two such dear children, though but for a brief space." He is so 
touching in his grief. 

May 8. 

I find my dear parents-in-law pretty well, but poor Mamma so 
terribly tired. She was dreadfully overcome in coming home, and 
at the several meetings. He looks much, older, as, indeed, does also 
the poor Emperor, who parted yesterday to go to St. Petersburg. 
Dear Aunt Marie seems very weak, and they both, together with my 

* She was the ouly sister of Priuce Charles of Hesse. 



54 ALICE, GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

parents, make sucli a sad picture to look at. But they aH -like to 
speak of those they have lost. My parents-in-law and we go this 
week to Uncle Louis to Seeheim for three weeks. 

Seeheim ; May IS. 
You can't think what real pleasure your pretty locket gave my 
mother-in-law. She was deeply touched by the kind thought and 
the considerate attention of the gift — with what was engraved on it. 
She was so very much pleased with it, and put it in the moment she 
received it. The photograph is to be put in. To-day, Anna's wed- 
ding-day, it arrived. 

We have been here since yesterday afternoon — my parents-in-law 
and Uncle Louis. The suite are on leave of absence, so we are quite 
enfamille. 

Yesterday, Serge's birthday, we went with Uncle and Aunt to the 
Greek Mass, which lasted more than an hour, We dine daily at the 
Heiligenberg. This morning also we were there with our parents 
and children; and Aunt Marie [the Empress of Kussia] kept Ella 
half an hour on her Jap, playing with her, which the little one en- 
joyed very much, as she is particularly sociable and amiable. Vic- 
toria romped with her cousins— Aunt Marie's two, and Uncle Alex- 
ander's four. 

Seeheim : May 15. 
. . . To-day Michael and Cecile arrive, and on Tuesday the 
Emperor and Empress recommence their journey homeward. The 
return will be for both most trying. Aunt Marie spoke with me 
about her sons, their education, &c., very long last night. Her 
whole life she has studied and lived for Nike [the late Cesare witch],, 
that he might become that which was necessary for his future ; and 
she was much more with him, and they were both much more in- 
timate together, than she is with her other children. AfHe came 
here on Saturday, andl am so glad to have him and hear some news 
of you. At this moment he and William are in the room shooting 
at a target out of the window, which makes no little noise. 

May 20. 
. . . We mean to remain here in the Bergstrasse with our 
parents; it seems to console them; but my father-in-law makes me 
very anxious, and is so nervous. Poor Mamma! so soft, so tired, 
so unlike herself, celafait fitie. 

On the 5th the Grand Duke is going to receive the Garter. You 
shall have an account of all. 

Affle is here, and to-day dear Arthur comes for a few hours. L 
shall be so pleased to see him again, 

Seeheim : May 31. 
. . . Yesterday the Emperor and Empress and children left. 
So sorry to see them go! God knows when we shall all meet here 
again. We have been so much together, and so intimately, that I 
have grown very iond of them, and am very sad at the thought of 
the long and uncertain separation. Dear little Arthur was here, 
looking very well. The wooded hills here are so nice to ride about 
on, and the country is very beautiful. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSB. 55 

May 31. 
I read serious books a ereat deal, and of a Sunday together we 
read out of Eobertson's sermons. In the second series there is one, 
" The Irreparable Past " for young people, so cheering, so encourag- 
ing, so useful. Louis read it to me on his return from Schwerin 
after poor Anna's death. A short life indeed, and it makes one feel 
the uncertainty of life, and the necessity of labor, self -denial, char- 
ity, and all those virtues which we ought to strive after. Oh, that 
I may die, having done my work and not sinned with Unterlassung 
des Gnten [omission to do what is good], the fault into which it is 
easiest to fall. 

Our life being so quiet gives one much time for earnest thought, 
and 1 own it is "discouraging to find how much one fails — how small 
the step of improvement is. 

1 sufier still so much, and so often, from rheumatism. 1 am tak- 
ing warm soda-baths in the morning for it, and am rubbed after- 
ward with towels which have been dipped in cold water and then 
wrung out. It is not very pleasant. 

June 4. 

.- . . The weather is very beautiful, and we had tea yesterday 
at Schonberg, the castle of young Count Erbach, whom Louis pre- 
sented to you at "Windsor. Could you tell us for certain when you 
intend going to Coburg, and when we are expected there, as we are 
going to the sea to bathe for Victoria and myself, and we would 
arrange our time accordingly? 1 require some sea air after the great 
heat, and after baby's weaning; also before Scotland it would be 
good, for I have so much rheumatism. Some sea water will 
strengthen me. 

June 7. 

. . . You know how very Scotch we both are. Louis is de- 
votedly attached to Scotland and his Scotch friends. Do tell them 
so always. But now I must tell you of yesterday. In the morning 
Affie, we, and our suite, drove into town for the investiture. At 
half -past three 1 drove with my ladies, a Kammerherr [Chamber-, 
lain], Becker, &c., to the Schloss, where Uncle Louis received us in 
shorts ! Then Affie and Louis in their whole Garter dress arrived in 
a carriage with six horses and an escort. Uncle Louis, before the 
throne, and the family, Court, corps diplomatique, &c., received 
them. Affie read in English the address, to which Uncle Louis an- 
swered in German; then Affie buckled on the Garter; then Louis 
helped him to put on ribbon, cloak, &c., and fastened the sword on 
him, which was no easy task; but they acquitted themselves to per- 
fection, and went out through the long Kaisersaal backward, bow- 
ing. 

There was a large dinner afterward, at which your health was 
proposed by Uncle Louis, and in return Affie gave his. You have 
made a happy man, and he feels the honor — as he said to me in En- 
glish — " utmostly;" and he wishes me to repeat once more how 
grateful he is to you. . . , 

Affie did not return here last night; he slept at Darmstadt, and 
left this morning for Amorbach. To-day Uncle Ernest Is coming to 
us. but only for one night. As we have again to go into town to 
fetch him, and it is very warm, 1 must close. 



06 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Seeheim : June 15, 
. . . How it will amuse and please us to show the good excel- 
lent Scotchmen our home. It is a pleasure toliear of such devotiois 
and attention to you as Brown's is, and indeed you are so kind to 
him, that his whole happiness must consist in serving so good a mis- 
tress. 

1 think you will be pleased to hear of a most kind and touching 
tribute which the Frauen [women] of Darmstadt have paid me. 
Two hundred and fifty have subscribed to have a splendid picture 
painted for me, by P, "Weber, of Loch Katrine. 1 am to see it ort 
Simday. It is very much admired, and they sent the painter to« 
Scotland to do it, thinking that something from my own country 
would please me most, is it not kind of them? It has given me so 
much pleasure— bul of all things the feeling which has prompted 
them to do it, as it shows me that, though I have been here so short 
a time, they have become attached to me, as I ain with all my heart 
to my new home and country. 

'Now about myself. I have weaned Ella, last Saturday, arid can 
only say that my health has never been so good, nor have I been so 
strong or looked so fresh and healthy as I do now. When Uncle 
Ernest saw me he said I looked agsfin as I did as a girl, only rather 
fatter. 

Ella crawls now, and is very strong; she has- her first two teeth, 
Victoria is very wild, and speaks more German than English. I 
think her rather small, but other people say she is not. She goes 
out walking with her Papa before breakfast quite alone, with her 
hands in her pockets, and amuses him very much. 

June 19, 

Many thanks for your last letter from dear Balmoral. The part- 
ing from that lovely place must always be sad, and there is some- 
thing in mountains which attaches one so much to that scenery. 

Yesterday was a very ti7ing day for my poor mother-in-law (her 
birthday), and she was very low, but, as all along, so resigned, so 
touching in the beautiful way she bears her grief; so unselfish with 
• it, never wishing to make others sad, or to be less interested in their 
concerns than formerly. 

Dear Mary Cambridge has been here, and we enjoyed her visit so 
much. "W e took her back to Frankfort to-day, where we gave her 
and Aunt Cambridge a luncheon in Uncle Louis' Palais. 

June 31. 

It is warm, but very windy and dusty here; we were- nearly 
blinded out riding yesterday evening. 1 am reading that most inter- 
esting History of England by Pauli, in German, which commences 
with the Congress of Vienna in 1815, and is, 1 believe, very detailed 
and correct. It gives a sketch also of the reign of George III., and 
is so well Avritten one can scarcely lay the book down. It is part of 
a work written by the best German professois on England, Russia, 
Italy, France, Spain, and Austria in those years, and I am reading 
them one after another. They are thick books, and eight volumes. 

Kranichstein : July 2. 

We both thank you for your kind wishes tor our wedding-day. 
It was rainy and not fine, but we spent it very happily indoors—Affle 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 57 

and Mary with us. Dr. Weber now wishes (as we should have to 
go from Blaukeuberghe back to Coburg, and then again all the 
journey back), that 1 should not bathe at all this year, as all the good 
would be undone by the hurried journey, and the excitement of the 
cea air might not be good for Victoria. We are all to go instead for 
four weeks to Switzerland, beginning wiih Rigi Kaltbad, and this 
we greatly prefer. We go into the mountains at once for the bracing- 
air. On Saturday until Tuesday we go to Baden for the christening 
of the baby. We both are god-parents. 

Kranichstein : July 10. 
. . . Ella already says, since some time, " Papa" and " Mam- 
ma." and calls herself, and crawls, and is very forward and merry 
— such a contrast tc> Victoria, who is so pale and fair, and noxo thin, 
for Ella's eyes are so dark blue, and her hair of such a rich brown, 
that you would never take the little things for sisters. They are 
very fond of each other, and so dear together, that they give us much 
pleasure. I would not change them for boys, if 1 could; this little 
j)air of sisters is so nice, and they can be such friends to each other. 

1 hope you will be comfortable here, but we are much annoyed 
not to be able to be there to receive you. None of the family will be 
here, save perhaps my mother-in-law with poor Fritz Schwerin, who 
is expected then. 

We mean to start on the 35th, and we go as private people, on ac- 
count of the expense. We are only going to the Oberland, and 
sha'n't go very far about. 

Kranichstein : July 17. 

... It was 95o in the shade yesterday at eight in the morning, 
and 1 think the heat increases. Dr. Lj^on Playfair lunched with us 
yesterday; he is so charming. To-morrow morning at five we go to 
Bonn for the day, and shall be there before ten. The heat is too 
jgreat to go at any other time. We start next Tuesday evdiiing, and 
on Wednesday shall be on the Rigi. 

This morning at six o'clock we rode to the exercising — I on a new 
horse, for two hours and a half over sand without any shade. 

Mary [Duchess of Teck] has been so kind as to give us a boat, 
■which we expect shortly. It is to be christened " Mary Adelaide," 
after her. 

July 24. 

Many thanks for your letter, and for the sad account of Victoria 
Brand's* death. - It is quite shocking, and she was my dearest 
friend of those contemporaries, and the one 1 saw the most of. ' ' In 
the midst of life we are in death;" and the uncertainty of all earth- 
ly things makes life a real earnest, and no dream. Our whole life 
should be a preparation and expectation for eternity. Merry as she 
was, she was yet very serious and thoughtful; but what a loss she 
"will be to her poor parents and husband ! 

1 have made all arrangements for jj-our comfort here. 1 own I do 
not like your coming here when we and the whole family are away 
—it looks so odd. 1 forgot to tell you, in answer to your question 

* Daughter of M. Van de Weyer, the Belgian Minister Plenipotentiary in 
England. She had been thrown out of her carriage, and died from the effect 
■of the injuries received. 



58 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

about Ella's name, that she of course must be called " Elizabeth," 
entrerious only "Ella," for she hears my dear mamma-in-law's 
name 

Rlgi Kaltbad : August 1. 

I am enchanted, delighted with this magnificent scenery. Oh, 
how you would admire it! When 1 am sketching, 1 keep telling 
Louis how much more like you would make the things; one can al- 
ways recognize the places when you draw them. 

We left Darmstadt at eight Wednesday morning, the 26th, slept at 
Basel that night, and we got there early enough to see the fine church 
in a thunderstorm. The next day we only went to Lucerne, as the 
weather was not fine enough to ascend the Rigi. It was a lovely 
afternoon, and the lake of a marvelous green color. The Pilatus was 
quite clear for a few hours. The next morning we two, the chil- 
dren, Moffat, Harriet, the nursery-maid, Logoz and wife, Jager, and 
Beck, our whole party, started in a very crowded steamer for WSg- 
gis. Splendid weather, though cloudy. We then, on horses and in 
chairs carried by three or six men, made our ascent along a wind- 
ing, narrow, steep path, below rocks, past ravines, where little chS- 
lets are situated, and all over the green pasture cows and goats feed- 
ing with bells round their necks. Westerweller was here when we 
arrived; he acts courier, and when we make long expeditions re- 
mains with the children. This is a very roomy hotel, crammed full 
of people, among them some old Austrian ladies whom we see below 
walking on the terrace — very, smart, and smoking. We two have 
been on mules with a guide — such a funny man, who was a soldier 
at Naples, and was at the siege of Gaeta — on all the expeditions 
hereabout. 

To-morrow we leave, and go till Monday to Buochs, on the other 
side of the lake; then to Engelberg, where Uncle Adalbert and his 
wife wilLbe. The children are well; Victoria very troublesome, but 
Ella good and amiable as ever. As 1 am writing at the window, the 
clouds cover the lake and the lower mountains, and 1 can only see 
the quite high ones with glaciers, which are of such a splendid 
shape. 

The color of the Scotch mountains is, 1 think, finer; but here they 
are, first of all, so enormously high, and then such fine shapes, and 
the mountains are studded with trees and rocks down below, and of 
a green color. 

The air is very light and cold, but the sun intense. We are going 
off for the day again on our mules, so 1 must close. Of course 
many funny incidents lake place, which 1 reserve to tell you wher^ 
we meet. 

1 do hope the heat will* be over for your journey, and that it will 
be fine when you are at our dear Kranichstein. Marie Grancy will 
be there to receive you, and do anything which is required. 

Engelberg, Hotel Titlis : August 8. 

These lines 1 send by Becker, and hope you vvill receive them at 
Kranichstein. ... 1 hope you found all you wanted in the rooms, 
and that the meals were as you like them. I ordered all, and wrote 
all down before leaving, as 1 know what you like. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 59 

We were for some days at Bnoclis, a very pretty village; and we 
lived in three detachments in different common Swiss houses, very 
comfortable on the whole, but not smelling very nice, so that I could 
scarcely eat while we were there. 

Yesterday morning, in a very funny two-seated carriage with one 
horse, we left, the children and servants following in a bigger car- 
riage. A nearly four hours' drive through the most beautiful 
scenery, up a narrow valley thiough which the A.a runs, brought 
us here. The last two hom-s are a steep ascent on the side of a preci- 
pice; beautiful vegetation through the wood all the way upward; 
view on the high mountains with snow and glaciei*s close by. On 
coming to the top, there is a narrow and lovely green valley studded 
with peasants' cottages, and in the center a Benedictine Abbey, near 
which our hotel is situated. The valley is of very green grass; the 
tops of the mountains quite rocky, with snow. Lower down, and 
skirting the valley, which is quite shut in by the hills, fine trees; 
several very high waterfalls, in the style of the Glassalt (near Bal- 
moral), only much higher. This Alpine valley is said to give the 
most perfect idea of a'Swiss valley up in the mountains. One can 
ascend the Tillis; but it is said to be dangerous, so we shan't at- 
tempt it. We are very careful, and Louis won't undertake any- 
thing risky. The sceneiy seen from the carriage merely is so splendid 
that one may well be content with that. Unfortunately, today it 
pours, and it is very cold. The children are very well. The jour- 
ney has really done Victoria good, and she begins to have an appe- 
tite, which with her is a very rare thing. 

The next place we go to is Meyringen. We mean to ride there 
over the Joch Pass, hut the children must go back the same way to 
get round, aa there is no other way out of this valley. We will leave 
them then with Westerweller, and go to the Grindelwald, Inter- 
laken, &c. ; and then return home by the 29th probably. The chil- 
dren are living in a cottage here also. 

Pension Belle Vue, Tracht bei Brienz : August 14. 

. . . Our ride from Engelberg over the Joch Pass to Meyringen 
was quite beautiful; but a worse way than any we have ever been 
out on in Scotland. We were eleven hours on the road, and the sun 
was very hot, and the walking on these steep bad paths made one 
still hotter; but we enjoyed it very much, and 1 never saw anything 
grander or more magnificent. ... 1 have made little scribbles 
on the way. ... To day we two witji two horses were to have 
walked and ridden to the Grindelwald, over the Rosenlaui glacier, 
and to have gone on the next day to Interlaken, but the weather is so 
bad that it is impossible, and, not being satisfied with the prices, &c., 
at the hotel' of Meyringen, we came on here, an hour's drive, near 
to the beautiful falls of the Giessbach, which we saw on Sun- 
day. . . . The weather will determine whether we can make an 
expedition to morrow. 

We shall be home on Friday by Thun and Basel, where we sleep. 
What daf are we to be at Coburg, and for how long exactly? 1 be- 
lieve only two or three days. 

The white heather is from above Engelberg, near Brieux. 



60 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Pension Belle Vue : August 15. 
1 have this instant received your dear letter from Kranichstein, 
and, though only just returned from an expedition to the Rosenlaui 
glacier, 1 sit down at once to thank you with all my heart for such 
dear lines. How glad 1 am all was comfoi table, and that you were 
pleased with your day in our nice KranichsteinI 1 am glad you 
missed us a little. . . . But 1 must tell you of to-day. We 
drove to Reichenbach, close to the falls, took a guide and horses, 
and in two hours by a steep stony path got to Rosenlaui. The view 
on the Wetteihorn, covered with snow, and on the Wellhorn, which 
Is a rugged rock on the othei side of it, the white sparkling glacier, 
is quite beautiful. The shapes and immense height of the mountains 
are so imposing. 1 look, admire, wonder; one can't find words to 
express what one feels. How you would admire the scenery ! Papa 
was so fond of it all. 

Kranichstein : August 21. 

These will be my last lines until we meet. We returned here 
well, having unfortunately, though, much rain from Interlaken to 
Basel. At Thun we M^ere in the same hotel as Blanche and Made- 
moiselle Bernard, and to-morrow we expect Uncle Nemours, Mar- 
guerite, and Alencon, whom we asked to dinner on their way 
to Frankfort. 1 am mostly at the Rosenhohe with my mamma- 
in-law, as she is quite alone. 1 was in town with her, and read to 
her this morning; she is ever so dear and kind. 1 do love her so 
much. Ever since Ella's birth we have been drawn so closely to 
each other, and I admire her also now that 1 know and understand 
her. There is so much beneath, so much Qemuth, tenderness, and 
delicacy of feeling, it is indeed a blessing to have such people as 
they are for parents-in-law. 

September 1. 

Uncle George was here yesterday. Vicky remains with us till 
the 5th, and it gives me so much pleasure to be able to repay her for 
her hospitality this winter. 

We were at the christening of Becker's baby, which went off so 
well. In the morning we had had to go through High Mass for the 
inauguration of the Grand Duchess's monument in the Catholic 
church. 

Poor papa-in-law, who went to bathe for his headache, has had 
such a return of his cough that he is coming back here on Monday. 
1 hope they will go to Switzerland later. 

Kranichstein September 8. 

. . . After having missed the train they intended to come by, 
Bertie and Alix arrived at 'three o'clock. They dined with us. 
Louis then took him to the theater, and 1 drove her about. 

My poor father-in-law's throat is very bad, and gives him much 
pain. I am really very anxious about him. 

We leave to-morrow afternoon at four, and shall spend the fol- 
lowing day at Ostend, embarking in the evening. Till the end of 
the week we intend stopping in town, and if Bertie and Alix remain 
longer we shall leave by the limited mail (for Balmoral.) 

Inverness : October 8. 
This is a very fine town, and the country is very beautiful. 
We took a walk this morning, and shall drive this afternoon. It 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 61 

was thought better not to go to a kirk, as the people seemed to look 
out for us. 

Again a thousand thanks for having arranged this nice journey for 
us, which we enjoy so much. 1 thought so much of you and dear 
Papa yesterday during our ride.* 

Sandringham : November 16. 
... I am pleased that the children are well under your roof. 
1 know they have all they can want. Bertie had such a bad tooth- 
ache yesterday : Louis also a little ; the cold air must V e the cause, for 
it is so sharp here. 

Alix and I practice together for an houi of an evening. . . . Alix 
drove me down to the sea the other day, and a most alarming drive 
it was, for the horses pulled, and to our astonishment the coachman 
suddenly alighted between us, with his feet in the air, from the back 
seat, and caught hold of the reins — it was too funny. 1 hope to be 
near your again on Saturday. 

Coblenz : November 25. 
. . . Having just a quarter of an hour to myself before leav- 
ing this, 1 hasten to write to you a few lines to tell you that we 
have traveled quite well so far. May will have told you about 
our passage. 1 have been sick ever since, which is dreadful. 
Henry and William joined us at Bonn, and came here with us. 

The Queen was- most kind. We spent the evening most pleas- 
antly C7i/aw^^7fo with her, and whilst we dined alone together she 
had to go to a town ball. 

Darmstadt : November 28. 
... 1 find my father-in-law looking better, 1 am happy to 
say, though far from strong; and alas! one of his lungs is affected. 
Though, with care, one can^ guard him from evil consequences, still 
of course it is an anxious thing. All the family are very grateful for 
your kind messages, and send their respects to you. 

. . . The children are very well, and Victoria said to my 
mother, " Meine Grossmamma, die Koniginn, has got a little vatch 
with a birdie, ' ' and she is always speaking of all at Windsor, but 
principally of the things in your room. 1 am so glad that you are 
pleased with the children's picture. I admire it so much. 
It is warm and damp here. ... 1 have a great deal to do. . . . 
We have been over the new house yesterday, and alas! found 
many things not quite what they were intended to be. . . . 

Darmstadt : December 5. 
Many thanks for your letter received yesterday, with the account 
of Lenchen's Verlobung [betrothal]. I am so glad she is happy, 
and 1 hope every blessing will rest on them both that one can possibly 
desire. 

1 had a letter from Marie Brabant two days ago, where she says 
dear Uncle's [King Leopold's] state is hopeless; but yesterday 
she telegraphed that he was rather better. What a loss it would be 
if he were to be taken from us, for his very name and existence, 
though he takes no active part in politics, ai-e of weight and value. 

Yesterday 1 was painting in oils, and 1 copied my sketch of the 

* See Leaves from a <7oi(raoZ— Grantown, 1860. 



62 ALICE, GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Sluggan, and, if it be in any way at all presentable and fit to give, 
1 will send it to yon, 1 hope it won't be very Chinese, for our 
sketches had a certain likeness to works of art of that country. 
Louis is very busy here. He has begun his military duties; he Jias 
the command and- Verioaltung [administration] of the Cavalry 
Brigade. To-day he has to go to the Chamber, and he is going to 
attend the different offices — home department, finances, justice, &c. 
— so as to get a knowledge of the routine of business. . . . Louis of 
Portugal and family passed through here yesterday, and went to 
Frankfort. 1 have inquired if they are there still, and if they are 
we shall try to see them. 1 am so curious to see Marie Pia. . . . 

All our Hoptaat [Court circle] lay their good wishes forLenchen's 
engagement at your feet 

Dai-mstadt : December 8. 
We are so grieved and distressed at dear Uncle Leopold's alarm- 
ing state, and have given up all hope, the accounts are so bad. . Oh, 
were there but a chance for you, or for any of us who love him so 
dearly, to be near him during his last hours! 

December 11. 
Many thanks for your letter. Alas, alasl beloved Uncle Leopold 
is no more! How much for you, for us, for all, goes with him to 
the grave ! One tie more of those dear old times is rent ! 

1 do feel for you so much, for dear Uncle was indeed a father to 
you. Now you are head of all the family — it seems incredible, an^ 
that dear Papa should not be by your side. 

The regret for dear Uncle Leopold is universal — he stood so high 
in the eyes of all parties ; his life was a history in itself — and now 
that book is closed. Oh, it is so sad, and he is such a loss! 1 am 
almost glad this sorrow has fallen into those days already so hallowed 
by melancholy and precious recollections. How I recollect every 
hour, every minute of those days. In thinking of them one feels 
over again the hope, the anxiety, and lastly the despair and grief of 
that irretrievable loss. The Almighty stood by you and us, and 
enabled us to bear it, for I always wonder that we lived through 
that awful time. 

The future world seems so like a real home, for there are so many 
dear ones to meet again. There is something peculiarly sad in the 
death of the last one of a large family — to feel that none is left to 
tell of each other, and of their earlier life, which the younger ones 
could know only through their ^ips. 

December 15. 
Many thanks for your letter. 1 was so anxious to hear some- 
thing of our beloved Uncle's end; it seems to have been most 
peaceful. 

There will be many Princes at Brussels, 1 believe. 

How much I thought of you and of dear Papa on the 14th ! Dear 
Louis leaves me this afternoon. He will reach Brussels at five to- 
morrow morning, and remain over the Sunday. 

The accession of a new King and the honors that have at once to 
be paid are so painful, following so closely on the death of one we 
have loved and known in that position. As the French sa.y : " Le 
Roi est mort. Vive le Roi!" 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 63 

December 20. 
... I was sitting up for Louis till half-past eleven with 
Countess Blucher — who leaves to-day, and has spent a few days with 
me — when he, and to my astonishment Bertie also, came into the 
room. The next day, alas! he had to leave again at four; but still, 
short as his stay was, it was a token of his constant love for me, and 
it touched me very much, for 1 ever loved him so dearly. 

Everything went off well at Brussels, as you will have heard. 
The more 1 realize that we shall never see beloved Uncle Leopold 
again, the sadder 1 grow. He had, apart -from all his excellent 
qualities, such a charm as I believe we shall seldom find again. 

The dear Countess is well. We made the dining-room into a bed- 
room for her, and we dined downstairs. I was so afraid of her get- 
ting cold, if she lived out of the house. 

Darmstadt : December 34. 
. . . How 1 wish beloved Uncle were brought to Windsor to 
rest there as he had wished ! I wondered so much that everything 
had taken place at Laeken, knowing that dear Uncle had wished it 
otherwise. 

Uncle Louis wishes me to thank you once more for the Christmas 
eatables, and my mother-in-law likewise for the lovely little frame 
and photograph. They are both much touched by this kind atten- 
tion on your part. 

Christmas Day. 
... To me Christmas is always sad now, and for Louis and his 
family it was so likewise this year; my parents-in-law felt it veiy 
much. We went to the Military Church at eight this morning. It 
is the service we like best; but it was bitterly cold, everything snow 
white. 

1 hope my little picture, though very imperfect, found favor in 
your eyes. It gave me such pleasure doing it for you, thinking of 
you and our expedition the whole time 1 was doing it. 

December 30. 
This is my last letter this year. In many ways a happy one has 
it been, though it has deprived us of many dear and near ones. Each 
year brings us nearer to the Wiedersehen [reunion with the dead], 
though it is sad to think how one's glass is running out and how lit- 
tle good goes with it, compared to the numberless blessings we re- 
ceive. Time goes incredibly fast. 

E^ery earnest and tender wish from us both is yo\irs, dear Mamma, 
for this coming year with its expected events. May God's blessing 
rest on this new union which is to be formed in our family, and 
may dear Lenchen be as happy as all those who loved her can wish ! 
I am so sorry to think that 1 shall probably not see her again until 
she is married; but I am glad for her sake that the Brauistand [the 
betiothal period] is not to be long. 

I send you a locket with EUa's miniature, which I hope will please 
you. 



64 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 



AT HOME AND AT WOBK 

1866-1872. 

" Life is meant for work, and not for pleasure " {2Qth August, 1866). 

1866. 

This year, which brought such important changes to the political 
life of Germany, was also in many ways full of sorrow and trouble 
to the Princess, and the hard and painful struggle through which 
Germany passed affected her very nearly. 

During the early part of the year, the new palace was completed, 
and in it the Princess had the satisfaction of seeing her wishes real- 
ized, and of feeling both comfortable and " at home." She was also 
able during this new year to extend the field of her practical use- 
fulness. 

Princess Alice attended some very interesting lectures on the ne- 
cessity of providing special asylums for poor idiots, delivered by a 
very clever and enterprising ^' orthodox " clergyman from the Oden- 
waid. She took up the idea most warmly, and determined to found 
such an institution herself, but in doing this found herself face to 
face with very serious difficulties. The lecturer and those who sided 
with him wished that any institution of this kind should bear a 
strictly religious stamp. The Princess did not agree in this view. 
She wished to separate the religious from the practical part of the 
work. She wished people to feel that they were bound to help to 
alleviate sickness and suffering (in whatever form) out of mere love 
to their fellow-creatures, and not only as the fulfillment of a reli- 
gious duty. "While the Princess always acknowledged the value of 
religious motives in carrying out works of charity, she felt strongly, 
in this particular case, that the treatment of idiots should be left to 
the medical profession, without any foreign interference. 

A committee was formed of persons who shared the Princess's 
views, and who were commissioned by her to take the necessuiy 
steps for carrying out her plans. By far the most difficult part of 
the work fell to her own share — namely, that of finding the neces- 
sary funds To obtain these she. organized a Bazaar in her new 
palace. This was a totally novel proceeding in Germany, and well 
calculated to attract, a large number of visitors. The Bazaar was 
opened on the 6th of April, and lasted four days. The "Princess 
with Prince Louis and her brother, Prince Alfred, took an active 
part in it. The result surpassed utmost expectations, a success 
mainly due to her own personal efforts, and to the charm which she 
exercised over all. At the close of the Bazaar she was not only able 
to announce that she had realized the sum of 16.000 florins, but that 
she had also gained the conviction that the whole country supported 
her in her undertaking. 

In spite of the success of this Bazaar, the Princess was in later 
years opposed to a repetition of such an expedient, as she felt — what 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 65 

many do — that people often come on such occasions for their own 
personal amusement rather than to aid the charity. 

The war of 1866, which was the consequeace of the imfortunate 
conflict about the Duchies of Schleswig-Holstein, was viewed by the 
Princess with feelings in whicJi personal interests and attachments 
conflicted with political convictions. She was so truly German that 
she felt most keenly the struggle between Germans and Germans, or, 
as she herself says in one of her letters, " brother against brother." 

At times she could not help being downcast, because she saw how 
much her husband and her husband's country suffered from it, and 
because she foresaw how disastrous to South Germany the results 
of such a war must be. Prince Louis himself was soon obliged to 
assume his command in the field. 

The Princess gave birth to a third daughter on the 11th of July, 
during the most anxious days of that trying time. Prince Louis had 
happened to be home on leave for a few days when the event took 
place; but he was obliged to leave the Princess on the 14th of July, 
and to go at once into action at Aschafienburg. As the South-Ger- 
man troops had to retreat, all communication with his home for 
some time was cut off. 

On the 21st of July the Prussians under General von GSben en- 
tered Darmstadt. Prince Louis' parents, who were the only rela- 
tions remaining in Darmstadt, were daily with the Princess. On 
the 8th of August, whilst on her way home from visiting her parents- 
in-law, the Princess unexpectedly met the Prince in the street. He 
had obtained leave of absence during a short armistice. The joy of 
this meeting can easily be pictured! The Prince and Princess 
together visited the wounded; and on the 10th of August the Prince 
was appointed by the Grand Duke to the command of the Hessian 
division then in the field. By the Grand Duke's wish the Prince 
went for two- days to Berlin, and then joined the troops in Rhenish 
Hesse. He took up his quarters in the " Gelbe Haus " at JSTierstein- 
Oppenheim, and the Princess courageously shared them with him — 
in spite of the cholera then raging there. On the 12th of September 
—Prince Louis' birthday — the little Princess was christened at 
Darmstadt by the military chaplain ; she received the names Irfine 
(Peace) Louise Marie Anna. The same day peace was ratified at 
Berlin — that peace for which the brave mother of the child had so 
ardently longed. 

The Cavalry Brigade which the Prince had commanded stood 
sponsors to the child. 

11 was only on the 20th of September that the Prince and Princess 
with the Hessian division made their public entry into Darmstadt. 



January 2. 
1 am at the head of a committee of ladies out of the different 
classes of society to make a large bazaar, in which all the country Is 
to take part, for the Idiot Asylum. It is very difficult— all the more 
as 1 have never had anything to do with sucli things in my life. . . . 
1 wanted, for the first public thing I undertake, to take in all prin- 
ciples, and my mother-in-law has given her name to it. I have 
chosen the committee out of different sets— half adelig [people of 

8 



QG ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

rank] half bilrgerlich [of the citizen class], and all these ladies, half 
of whom I dicf not know before, come and sit in my small room and 
discuss — and, as yet, do not disagree. 

January 6. 
. . . The people here are so much pleased that my Louis takes 
such active part in all his duties — military and civil, for he attends 
the different offices, and as General, 1 hear, he keeps great order 
where there were until now disorder and great abuse of power. Of 
course, 1 see him much less, and some days scarcely at all. 

On the 14th we go to Gotha for about a fortnight, without the 
children. 

Gotha: January 19.; 

Dear Uncle and Aunt are well, and we are very happy here, for 
they are always kindness itself to us. Uncle looks very well, but 
he grows very stout, 1 think. We saw the Braut von Messina 
[Schiller's] so well given two nights ago. 1 thought so much of 
dear Papa, who admired it greatly; and Uncle Ernest told me he 
had it given for you, when you first came here. 

Gotha : January 22. 

Two nights ago Uncle, Louis and I, with a very clever old 
actress, read a piece together. Louis resisted at first, but it went 
very well. You can't imagine how mild it is. 1 have the windows 
always open. Gustav Freitag is here. 1 am always glad to see 
him. He is a good friend to Uncle, and he is ^o honest and straight- 
forward. 

Gotha : January 26. 

I shall be very sorry to go away from here — the whole atmos- 
phere does one good. Dear Uncle is so amusing; he speaks of in- 
teresting things, and has interesting people. 

Our Quaker acquaintances have sent me a great deal for the 
Bazaar, and an old gentleman who heard of it, lOOZ. ! I could not 
believe my eyes. They are always so generous : and, hearing of my 
undertaking a work of this sort, they sent me this spontaneously. 
Is it not kind? 

Darmstadt: February 1. 

It is spring weather here altogether — quite warm when one comes 
out of the house. It is so unnatural. The children enjoy it, and 
are out a great deal, looking so well and strong: 1 wish you could 
see them. The little one is growing up to hex sister very fast, and 
actually wears the frocks Victoria wore last year. 1 wish you could 
hear all the extraordinary things Victoria saj^s. Ella is civil to all 
strangers — excepting to my mother-in-law. or to oldladies. It is too 
tiresome. Tliere is a large ball given by the officers at their Casino 
to-night, to which we must go. It will be crowded and hot. Our 
house gets on tolerably. The housekeeper, a Berlinerinn, comes on 
tlie 20th, and we are told that we can go mto the house next month. 
1 can't help doubting it, and I regret leaving this nice little house, 
where our first happy years have been spent. 1 am so. glad that you 
have at least been in the new house, so that 1 can always think that 
, you are no stranger to it, which makes me like it much better. 



ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 67 

February 10. 
... I am happy to think you are quiet at Osborne after all you 
had to go thi"ough. The emotion and all other feelings recalled by 
such an event "must have been very powerful and have tried j^ou 
much.* It was noble of you, my darling Mamma, and the great 
eftort will bring compensation. Think of the pride and pleasure it 
would have given darling Papa — the brave example to others not to 
shrink from their duty; and it has shown that you felt the intense 
sympathy which the English people evinced, and still evince, in your 
great misfortune. 

How to-day recalls those bright and happy former years! There 
is no cloud without a silver lining, and the lining to the black cloud 
which overshadows your existence is the bright recollection of the 
past blending into the bright hope of a happy future; a small part of 
it also is the intense love of your children and nation, which casts a 
light around you which many live to enjoy and admire, and which 
few — if any — possess like you. 1 wish 1 could have sent a fine nose- 
gay of orange blossoms for to-day, but they could not have arrived 
fresh, so 1 gave it up. 

Louis sends his tenderest love, and wishes me to say how much his 
thoughts with mine are to-day constantly with you. He is very in- 
dustrious, and has a great deal to do now, and, 1 hear, does all very 
well. 

Darmstadt : February 15. 

How dear of you to have written to me on the 10th — a day of 
such recollections! That last happy wedding-day at Buckingham 
Palace, how well 1 remember it, and all the previous ones at Wind- 
sor, when we all stood before your door, waiting for you and dear 
Papa to come out. You both looked so young, bright and hand- 
some. As I grew older, it made me so proud to have two such dear 
parents! And that my children should never know you both 
together — that will remain a sorrow to me as long as 1 live. 

Darmstadt : March 10. 

. . . Your idea of Friedrichroda for us was so good, but alas ! 
now even that will be impracticable, on account of money. Louis 
has had to take up money again at Coutts's to pay for the house, 
and the house is surety. 

He must live so economically — not going anyioliere, or seeing many 
people, so as to be able to spare as much a year as we can. England 
cost us a great deal, as the visit was short last time. We have sold 
four carriage horses, and have only six to drive with now, two of 
which the ladies constantly want for theater, visits, etc. ; so we are 
rather badly oft in some things. But 1 should not bore you with 
our troubles, which are easy to bear, 

March 16. 

How trying the visit to Aldershot must have been, but it is so 
wise and kind of you to go. 1 cannot think of it without tears in my 
eyes. Formerly that was one of the greatest pleasures of my girl- 
hood, and you and darling Papa looked so handsome together. 1 so 

* The opening: of Parliament by the Queen {or the first time after the deatli 
of the Prince Consort. 



68 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

enjoyed following you on those occasions. Such moments 1 should 
like to call back for an instant. 

Our house here is quite empty, and the demenageme7it creates such 
work. To-morrow night we sleep for the first time in the new 
house. 

March 17. 

I write from our dear little old house. May dear Papa's and 
your blessing rest on our new home, as 1 am sure it will, it is full 
of souvenirs of you both — all your pictures, photographs of dear 
brotheis and sisters and home. It reminds me a little of Osborne, of 
Buckingham Palace, a little even of Balmoral. Could I but show it 
to darling Papa! If 1 have any taste, 1 owe it all to him, and 1 
learned so much by seeing him arrange pictures, rooms, &c. 

At half -past seven we go into our house to-night. Bender is to 
say a prayer and pronounce a blessing, when we with all our house- 
hold are assembled in hall; only Louis' parents and William besides 
ourselves. Yours and dear Papa's 1 pray to rest on us. 

March 20. 

That [the death of the Duchess of Kent] was the commencement 
of all the grief; but with darling Papa, so full of tenderness, sympa- 
thy and delicate feeling for you, how compaiatively easy to bear, 
compared to all that followed! 

. . . We are very comfortably established here, and I can't fancy 
that 1 am in Germany, the house and all its arrangements being so 
English. When can we hope once to have you here? Of course 
tJiat is the summit of our wishes. Your rooms are on the east side 
and very cool — as you always go abroad when it is hot, and suffer 
so much from the heat. 1 shall die of it this year, as my rooms are 
to the west. 

March 24. 

. . . Our Grana-Uncle of Homburg has just died, SO that Hom- 
burg falls to Uncle Louis now. But all the things of the Landgra- 
vine Elizabeth go to Princess Reuss, and her [Aunt Elizabeth's *] 
rooms are full of beautiful miniatures, oil-paintings, and ornaments 
en masse, like Gloucester House. 

1 shall be so glad to see dear Affie. His rooms are to be ready by 
this evening. The house is very comfortable, but the weather is 
awful — wind, rain, and sleet. In spite of it the house is so cheerful. 

How sorry 1 am for you that dear Auntf is gone. As she was so 
well this time, it will be a reason moi-e for her returning soon to 
you. 

Dear Lady Frances Baiilie was with me on Thursday, so dear and 
charming. 

April 3. 

. . . We are living in such a state of anxiety and alarm. War:): 
would be too fearful a thing to contemplate — brother against 
brother, friend against friend, as it will be in this case! May 

* Princess Elizabeth of Great Britain and Ireland, Princess Alice's grand' 
aunt. 

t Princess Hohenlohe. 

X War between Prussia and Austria was now imminent. 



ALICE, GEAXD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 69 

the Almighty avert so fearful a calamity! Here, at Mayence and 
Frankfort, it will begin, if anything happens, as there are 
mixed garrisons; and we must side with one against the other. 
For Henry, who is still here, it is dreadful. He can't desert at such 
a moment, and yet if he slioulcl have to draw his sword against his 
country, his brothers fighting on the other side! Fancy the compli- 
cations and horrors of such a war! 

For Vicky and Fritz it is really dreadful ; please let me hear by 
messenger what you hear from them. 1 am sure you think of us in 
these troubled times. What would dear Papa have said to all this ? 
1 long to hear from you, to know that your warm heart is acting for 
Germany. 

March 26. 
. . . The dear old Queen Marie Amelie* is gone to her rest at 
last, after a long and so stormy a life! Claremont is now also altered. 
How sad those constant changes are! It reminds one again and again 
that we are on a journey, and that the real home is elsewhere. All 
those who work hard and love their fei low-creatures meet again, 
and the thorny path will be forgotten which leads to the happy 
meeting. I sincerely mouin for the dear Queen, and she was so kind 
10 me always. I am glad she was one of Victoria's godmothers. 

April 7. 

. . . Our Bazaar goes off wonderfully: 7,000 Sorins the first day, 
and to-day again a great deal. Affie was invaluable in arranging, 
selling, and assisting in every way. There have been crowds these 
two daj^s, as in England : something quite unusual for the quiet in- 
habitants of this place. They have shown so much zeal and devo- 
tion that I am quite touched by it, as 1 am more or less a stranger 
to them. 

April 25. 

Thousand thanks for your dear lines and for the money and 
charming bas-relief of you, which 1 think very good. I thought so 
much offormer birthdays at home in Buckingham Palace. They 
were so happy. We did nothing in particular, merely dined at 
Kranichstein with Uncle Louis in the afternoon. It vvas warm and 
fine. ' 

The money will go at once to Louis' man of business toward pay- 
ing off the furniture, and is, indeed, very, very acceptable, more so 
under present circumstances than anything else you could give us; 
and that part of the furniture will then all be your present. 

May 3. 
. . . The prospect of war seems to be nfiaring realization. It will 
be so dreadful if it does. God be with us, if such a misfortune be- 
fall poor Germany ! These prospects have already done much harm 
to trade. The large manufactories send awaj' their superfluous 
workmen, and they sell next to nothing. Most unpopular amongst 
high and low, and amongst people of all opinions, this civil war 
will be. . . . 
I have made all the summer out-walking dresses, seven iu num- 

* Widow o£ King Louis Philippe. 



70 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE, 

hex, with paletots for the girls — not embroidered, but entirely made 
from beginning to end; likewise the new necessary flannel shawls 
for the expected. 1 manage all the nursery accounts, and everything 
myself, which gives me plenty to do, as everything increases, and, 
on account of the house, we must live very economically for these 
next years. 

It is so kind of you to give Dr. Priestley his fee, otlierwise I 
would have had scruples in giving so large a sum for my own com- 
fort. 

If there is a war then, and Louis is away, what shall 1 do? This 
is my constant dread and apprehension. As long as he comes home 
safe again — that is all I shall think of. Please God to spare me that 
fearful anxiety, which weighs on me now alreadj^; for he, having 
only a brigade, could not keep out of danger, like Fritz in Schles- 
wig. 

I put my trust wholly in the Almighty, who has watched over 
and blessed our life so richly thus far — so much, much more than 1 
ever deserved, or can deserve; and He will not forsake us in the 
hour of need, I am sure. 

These dangerous times make one very serious and anxious; the 
comfort of faith and trust in God, who does all well and for the 
best, is the only support. Life is but a pilgrimage — a little more or 
a Jittle less sorrow falls to one's lot; but the anticipation of evil is al- 
most as great a suffering as the evil itself, and mine always was an 
anxious nature, so 1 cannot banish the thoughts which all the 
dreadful chances of war force upon one. 

May 7. 
... I am so sorry for poor Louise and Beatrice, and whooping 
cough is a nasty thing, though 1 wish we could complain of that as 
our sufferings here. Anxiety, worry without end ! 

Uncle Alexander returned from Vienna two days ago. The Em- 
peror, Uncle Alexander Mensdorfl, all frantic at being forced into 
war, but fearing now no more being able to prevent it. Cannot the 
other three Powers interfere and step between at this dangerous 
crisis — proposing a Congress, or anything, so as to avert this calam- 
ity? 

Henry, who was here on six weeks' leave, as he and Uncle Louis 
were to have gone to Russia (which now, of course, they won't do), 
had suddenly to return to Bonn, as his regiment is made mohil. 
Uncle Alexander receives the command of~lhe 8th Armeecorps, 
which 1 suppose and hope will be stationed somewhere near here, as 
Louis is in that, and is to go. He means to go to Berlin this after- 
noon for a day to see Fritz, and tell him how circumstances now 
force him to draw his sword against the Prussians in the service of 
his own country. The whole thing is dreadful, and the prospect of 
being left alone here at such a moment (for all our people, nearly, 
will accompany Louis) is dreadful? If I were only over my troubles 
I should not be so anxious, so nervous and unhappj^, as I must say 
the anticipation of all these dreadful things makes me. Gould I fol- 
low in the distance! But now that is impossible, and I have not a 
single older married person near me. When dear Louis goes, of 
course Westerweller goes too. I still pray and hope against hope 
that there may be no war; even if all the troops are assembled, I 



ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 71 

hope that the other Powers will interfere, and not look on whilst 
these brothers cut each other's throats. It is such an unnatural, 
monstrous war! 

The death of Lord and Lady Rivers is dreadful for their children, 
but how blessed for themselves! I hope Lady Caroline [Barrington] 
will pass by here, which will be a great pleasure to me, though she 
saj^s she can but stop two days, as you wish her to be home by the 
15th. 

May 18. 

. . . How glad I am to hear that Lord Clarendon is still hopeful! 
Here as yet, though there is no distinct reason for it, save the repug- 
nance of all to this civil war, all still hope to avoid the war. Every 
day we have occasion to hear how the Prussians detest this war — 
army and all — and there are constant rows, with the Landwehr in 
particular. Men of forty, who have families and homes to look after, 
are taken away with their sons ; and those who have horses are also 
taken, with their horses; so that the wife and children sit at home, 
unable to do anything for their land. It is ruining numbers, and 
murmurs get louder and louder. A revolution must break out if 
this continues. . . . 1 do pray 'mc»s</e?'®e?i% that the King will list- 
en to the just advice, in no way. derogatory to his dignity, of plac- 
ing the liated question of the Duchies before the Confederation; but 
1 fear he won't. If he would only listen to that advice and disarm, 
all Germany would do i t at once — only too gladly — forgetting all 
the losses in the happiness of peace restored. Forgive my stupid 
letter, but we live really so in tne midst of these affairs, on which 
our existence will turn, that 1 can think of nothing else. 

Austria can't hold out much longer, and the country is getting 
very violent against the King and Bismarck. The Emperor is less 
able to concede and keep peace. 

Now good-by, dearest Mamma. We are so grateful, to you for 
taking the children, if anything comes to pass. 

May 22. 

. . . Anything you hear of Vicky and Fritz, will you write to 
me? . . . The cloud" grows blacker every day, and the anxiety we 
all live in is very great. But I ought not to write to you to-day of 
such gloomy things, which, thank God, you only see and hear of 
from the other side of the water. 

MayS5. 

. . . The Duke and Duchess of Nassau were here yesterday. 
They, like me, are in such an unpleasant position, should it come to 
blows, which I still hope may be aver ted— for whj^ should we harm- 
less mortals be attacked? 

... TV e shall be beggars very soon, if all goes on as it promises 
to do; it is quite dreadful, and the want of other people (and dis- 
satisfaction) increases. ... I have ordered a good traveling-bag 
for Louis, for much the same reason that some people take out an 
umbrella in fine weather to keep off the rain, and this is to be 
against a war. ... 1 have a sort of Ahnung [presentiment] that it 
won't come to the worst — for us at least — and here we shall keep so 
quiet, only on the defensive, if attacked. 



72 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

May 28. 
. . . Tliere seems a little chance of the dreadful prospects being 
bettered. How 1 do pray it may be the commencement of a better 
time; and that, if peace be established, it may be so firmly, so that 
one may not live in the daily dread of new quarrels re-opening be- 
tween the two countries. ... 

The man who built our house has nearly been made bankrupt, and 
wants money from us to save him from ruin, and we can scarcely 
manage it. The ruin this preparation for war, and consequent ces- 
sation of all speculations, buildings, or trade, has brought on people 
is dreadful, and of course increases. . . . 

June 8. 
. . . How precious are your words of love and sympathy and 
the hope you still hold to, that war may somehow be averted! It 
does me good to hear it; and 1 know how much, and how lovingly, 
your thoughts dwell with dear Vicky and with me during this time 
of trial. ... 

June 13. 
. 1 fear if the Bund orders the mobilization, and goes against 
Prussia, our troops will be the first to go, and then Louis may get 
orders to be oft any day. It is too dreadful! I live in such dread 
that he may to go ijust before, or at the very moment of, my con- 
finement. ... 

1 hope Scotland will do you good. Please God, when you return, 
matters may be better. If Austria and Prussia would only fight out 
their quarrel together; but the latter has taken refuge with the Bund 
now, because she wanted it. 

Darmstadt June 15. 
. . . The serious illness of poor little Sigismund* in the midst 
of all these troubles is really dreadful for poor Vicky and Fritz, and 
they are so fond of that merry little child. 

We have just received the news that the Prussians have crossed 
our frontier and established themselves at Giessen. The excitement 
here is dreadful, and it is very difficult to keep people back from 
doing stupid things — wanting to attack, and so on, which with our 
force alone would be madness. 

Louis — as always — remains quiet; but we live in a perpetual 
fever, alarms being sent, being gehstzt [stirred up] from Vienna, as 
they want the Bund to go with them at once. It is a dreadful time. 
I anticipate it will be the close of the existence of the little countries. 
God stand by us! Wilhout the civil list Uncle Louis and the family 
are beggars, as all the private propertj^ belongs to the country. 

It is so kind of dear Lady Ely to offer to come. I shall be very 
glad of it, for from one day to another 1 don't know what Louis' 
duties may be; and, when I am laid up, it is so pleasant to .have 
some one who can write to you. 

June 18. 
These lines I send by our children, whom you so kindly will 
take charge of — alas, that the times should be such as to make this 
necessary! In your dear hands they will be so safe; and if we can 

* Son of the Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia. See ante, p. 47. 



ALICE, GRAlSriX- DUCHESS OE HESSE. 73 

give you a little pleasure in sending them, it would be a real conso- 
lution in parting from them, which we both feel very much. 

The state of excitement here is beyond description. Troops arriv- 
ing, being billeted about — all will be concentrated from here to 
Frankfort. Two days ago the Bund telegraphed for Uucle Alexan- 
der to come, as the Prussians were advancing; we, of course, were 
all unprepared, and the confusion and fright were dreadful; bat, 
thank God, tht^y retreated again, when they got wind that troops 
were assembling. . . . 

June 24. 
. . . The state of affairs is awful ; perpetual frights and false 
news arrive. The Prussians are coming from Wetzlar or Bingen; 
all the bustle and alarm for necessary defense, it is really dreadful. 
Louis' chief has his staff at Frankfort. ■ Louis' cavalry brigade is 
there likewise, so he has his adjutant, &c., there, and does his work 
early in the morning at Frankfort, returning here in the afternoon, 
which has been kindlj^ allowed on account of me. 1 remain here, 
of course, as near dear Louis as 1 can; and now that the children are 
gone, I have only myself to look after. ... 1 have not the least fear, 
but my anxiety about Louis will be verj^ great, as you can imagine. 

. . . Collections are already being made fnr the hospitals in the 
field, and the necessary things to be got for the soldiers. Illness and 
wounds will be dreadful in this heat. Coarse linen and rags are the 
things of which one can't have enough, and I am working, collect- 
ing shirts, sheets, &o. ; and now 1 come to ask, if you could send me 
some old linen for rags. In your numerous households it is collected 
twice a year and sent to hospitals. Could 1 beg tor some this time? 
It would be such a blessing for the poor Germans ; and here they are 
not so rich, and that is a thing of which in every war there has been 
too little. Lint I have ordered from England by wish ui the doctors; 
and bandages also they wished for. If you could, through Dr. 
Jenner, procure me some of these things, 1 should be so grateful. . . . 
Four dozen shirts we are making in the house. Every contribution 
of linen, or of patterns of good cushions, or any good bed wnich in 
the English hospitals has been founa useful, we should be delighted 
to have. . . . For the moment the people beg most tor 7xigs ; our 
house beiuij: new, we ha\e none. I am tolerably well, and cannot 
be too thankful for good nerves. Louis is very low at times, nerv- 
ous at leaving me; and for him 1 keep up, though at times not 
without a struggle. May the Almighty watch over us, and not 
separate us, is my hourly prayer! 

In your hands we feel the children so safe, though we miss them 
much. It is so kind of you to have taken them, and they are strong 
and healthy. ... 

June 85. 
Two words by Lady Ely's courier. 1 am so glad she is here. 
She performed the journey in a day and night without difficulty; 
and Christa, who merely came from Cassel, took three days coming 
by road. 

Alas! to-morrow Louis' division moves on into the country to 
make room for other troops, and he must go. It will be too far for 
him to return — save with special permission for a few hours — so we 
shall have to part. My courage is beginning to fail me, but 1 bear 



'i'4 ALICE, GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

up as best I can. God knows what a bitter trial it is! He is just in 
front, so the first exposed. William is to go in Uncle Alex, 's staff, 
and my poor mamma-in-law is beginning to break down now. We 
try to cheer each other. The wiiole thing is so hard: against her 
countrymen — there where Louis has served. The whole thing is so 
contrecKur, and the Prussian soldiers dislike it as much as we do. 

1 am going to Frankfort with ever so many poor wives to take 
leave of their husbands, who march to-day. 

The heat is awful. 1 have no time to think of myself, or 1 dare- 
say 1 should have heat, &c., to complain of. Being still off and on 
with Louis, and having things to do, keeps me up ; but when he is 
gone, and 1 have no man here to reassure me, it will be dreadful. 

1 must close. . . . Letters from home tiow are such a pleasure; do 
let any one write to me sometimes to give me news of you all. 

Your own child, 

Alice. 

Darmstadt: July 1. 
. . . The parting now was so hard ! and he feels it so dreadfully. 
I can scarcely manage to write. The heat, besides. Is overpowering. 

Our dear wedding-day four years ago! Four years of undisturbed, 
real, and increasing happiness. How 1 thank and bless the Almighty 
for them, and how fervently 1 pray that we may live over this most 
bitter trial ! 

. . . 'WTiether Henry is engaged or not we don't know, and 
can get no news of him. At any rate he is cut off from news of us 
and the rest of Germany; and, as our army is moving, and he is on 
the extreme wing, at any moment he may find himself opposite to 
his own brothers and countrymen. It is most painful, and has been 
to my poor father in-law a great shf)ck, as we all hoped he had got 
away. Please let my brothers know this. They will feel for this 
unheard-of position for three brothers to be in. . . . 

Dear Lady Ely is a comfort and support to me, and it was quite a 
relief to Louis to leave her with me. We are both so grateful that 
she came. Christa is quite out of sorts about her country, and sees 
everything black. Marie is low about her brother; and we are so 
in the middle of it all, that an English person who has no one con- 
cerned in it all is really a relief 

1 am so glad that you are pleased with the little ones. You will 
be sure, 1 know, not to let them get in the way of infection, if there 
is still any. 

July 3. 
. . . Poor Vicky! She bears her trial [the death of her son, 
Prince Sigismund] bravely, and it is a heavy one indeed. This 
dreadful war is enough to break one's heart. Those lives sacrificed 
for nothing — and what will be the end of it all? All our troops are 
gone now, too, and, what is so unpleasant, of course we here don't 
know where they go to — where they are. Letters are fetched by the 
Feldpost, and as they are chiefly not near the railroads— at least not 
Louis — we cannot telegraph. At sucli a moment 1 know dear Louis 
fidgets dreadfully for news, and 1 not less. Since he has gone I 
have heard nothkig. 

At length, letters from Henry have come. He never received until 



ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 75 

the 29 til the telegram his parents begged the King to send him on 
the 18th, for the King said he did not know where he was— thought 
he was in Russia! He has been in all the engagements, wondering 
why, as was originally arranged, no order came for him to leave. 

Tarn so very uncomfortable, and it wants courage and patience 
and hope, under such circumstances, to bear all. Of course anxiety 
about beloved Louis is the chief thing, and longing for news. The 
Prussians are collecting a large army near Thtlringen, in which direc- 
tion ours are marching. Probably Uncle Ernest against ours! He 
might so well have remained quiet, and sent his troops to Mayence, 
as was settled. 

For dear Lenchen's wedding-day receive every warm and affec- 
tionate wish. May God's blessing rest on their union! I am so 
glad you are pleased with the dear children. I have already found 
that likeness in Ella to Affie's picture by Thorburn, but she is so like 
dear Louis. 

July 6. 

. . . There seems a chance of an armistice. I trust it is so, and 
that peace will ensue. The enormous bloodshed on both sides this 
fortnight is too awful to think of. Poor Austria! it is hard for her. 
But as she is said to be ready to cede Venice, then at least the Italian, 
war will be at an end. 

Surely the neutral Powers will try and prevent Austria and Prussia 
beginning again; it is too horrid! 

The rest of Germany now must knock under; but that is better 
than again shedding so much blood on the chance of getting the 
upper hand. 

I have had some lines from dear Louis from the north of Hesse. 
He is well; how I do hope now that they won't come to blows. 

How kind of you to give the children frocks for the wedding! 
Will you kiss the dear little ones from me? I miss them very much. 

[In a letter dated July 11, 1866, Prince Louis announces to the 
Queen the birth of a strong, healthy girl, with " dark eyes and brown 
hair."] 

Darmstadt : July 19. 
Beloved Mamma, — What a time I have passed during these 
eight days since Baby's birth! Firstly, 1 have to thank the Almighty 
for having preserved my own sweet and adored husband, and for the 
blessing of having had him by me, so dear, so precious, during my 
confinement. After three days he had to go, and when he got near 
Aschaffenburg found fighting going on. We could hear the guns 
here. The Prussians shot from the roofs of the houses; they fought 
in the streets; it must have been horrid. Our troops retreated (as 
had always been intended) in perfect order. The wounded were 
brought in here the following day. The 18th and 14th they fought. 
Louis was there on tljg 14th ; since then 1 have not seen him — God 
knows when I shall again. 

The Prussians have taken Frankfort, and they are at home here. 
No communications allowed; get no papers or letters; may send 
none ! An existence of monstrous anxiety and worry, which it is 
impossible for those to imagine who have not lived ttirough it. 

1 had a letter from Louis from the Odenwald this morning, writ- 



'J'e ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OP HESSE. 

ten yesterday. They expected to pass Amorbach to-day. They are 
trying to meet the Bavarians, who are never to be found. 

1 long for a letter from you. We have none at all, and 1 have 
had none from you since Baby's birth. The people, who are such 
cowards and so silly, fly from here in all available droschldes. 

How 1 pray some end may soon came to this horrid bloodshed! 
Ah! the misery around us you can't imagine. Henry has never re- 
ceived his discharge, and has gone unscathed, in spite of being so 
exposed through all these battles. 

1 myself am very well, and I don't give way, though the anxiety 
about Louis leaves me no peace. 

Baby is well and very pretty. The time she came at prevented a 
thought of disappointment at her being a girl. Only gratitude to 
the Almighty filled our hearts, that 1 and the child were well, and 
that dear Louis and 1 were together at the time. The times are 
hard; it wants all a Christian's courage and patience to carry one 
through them ; but there is one Friend who in the time of need 
does not forsake one, and He is my comfort and support. God bless 
you, my own Mamma, and pray for your child, 

Alice. 

Friday, July 27, 9 o'clock p.m. 
At this moment the messenger has arrived, to leave again at five 
to-morrow morning. A thousand thanks for your dear letter, the 
first 1 have received since Baby's birth ! 

To-night (since Sunday no news of Louis) at length 1 have heard 
that dear Louis is well. These last four days they have been fight- 
ing again. 1 had a few lines from him. These last two nights he 
slept in a field, and th^ country is so poor, that they had nothing 
but a little bread during two days to eat. ISTow the Prussians, hav- 
ing made peace with Austria, and having refused it to us, are ad- 
vancing on our troops from three sides. 

I can scarcely write: this anxiety is killing me, and my love has 
been so exposed! All are in admiration of his personal bravery and 
tender attention to the suffering and want of all around. He never 
thinks of himself, and shares all the dangers and privations with the 
others. 

Louis says they long for peace. He disapproves the different 
Governments for not now giving way to Prussia, and begs me to use 
my influence with Uncle Louis to accept Prussian conditions to 
spare further bloodshed. 

From all parts of the country the people beg me to do what 1 can. 

The confusion here is awful, the want of money alarming; right 
and left one must help. As the Prussians pillaged here, 1 have 
many people's things hidden in the house. Even whilst in bed I 
had "to see gentlemen in my room, as there were things to be done 
and asked which had to come straight to me. Then our poor 
wounded — the wives and mothers begging 1 should inquire for 
their husbands and children. It is a state of affairs too dreadful to 
describe. 

The new anxiety to-night of knowing a dreadful battle is ex- 
pected, perhaps going on, in which dear Louis again must be! I 
can scarcely bear up any longer; 1 feel it is getting too much. God 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 77 

Almighty stand by us! My courage is beginning to sink. 1 see no 
light anywhere; and my own beloved husband still in danger, and 
we cannot hear, for the Prussians are between us and them. Any- 
thing may have happened to him, and 1 can't hear it or know it! 1 
could not go to him were he wounded. 

What 1 have suffered and do suffer no words can describe — the 
sleepless nights of anxiety, the long days without news — lioio I pray 
it may soon end, and dear darling Louis be spared me! 

In these days 1 have so longed to hear from you. It would have 
been such a comfort, and I longed for it much. 

If we live, and peace is restored, the country and everything will 
be in such a mess, and ooth of us in such want of change, that we 
must go somewhere; but we shall then, I fear, be next to ruined. 
You can't think what war in one's own country — in a little one like 
this — is! The want is fearful. I must go to bed, as it is late. 1 am 
well, so is the little one; but I can't sleep or eat well all along; and 
the worry of mind and much to do kef^p me weak. 

Oh, that we were together again! Good-by, beloved Mamma, 
These next days 1 fear will be dreadful. May the Mmighty watch 
over dear Louis! You will pray lor him, won't you? 

P. 6', — The standard of Louis' cavalry regiment, which they did 
not take with them, and whicn is usually kept at the Schloss, Is in 
my room for safety. 

P orgive the shocking writing, but I am so upset to-night, since 
my messenger of Tuesday returned with Louis' letter. 

Darmstadt: August 4. 
. . . The linen, &c. , for the wounded has arrived, and been 
so useful; a thousand thanks for it! Matters here change from one 
day to another, and 1 hope Louis may soon be able to return with 
the troops. Uncle Louis I do hope and pray will then return, and I 
hope he will regain the favor which he has lost, for any change 
now would be dreadful. 

My father-in law is really in such a state since these events, and 
his nerves so shattered, that my mother-in-law trembles for him, 
and tries to keep him out of all. He is so angry, so heartbroken at 
the loss of Oberhessen, which is probable, that hie wishes not to out- 
live it. My poor mamma-in-law burst into tears this morning in my 
room, where this scene took place. 

I have just returned from having been to inquire after the 
wounded at the different hospitals and houses, which are filling fast, 
as they can be brought from Aschaffenburg, Lauf ach, &c. As soon 
as I am better, 1 will go to them myself ; but the close and crowded 
wards turn one easily faint. 

Becker saw Louis three days ago, and accompanied him to 
Munich for a day. I hear he is well, though for six nights he had 
slept out of doors, and the last three nights it had poured inces- 
santly; and all that time — on account of ours not having a truce, 
and expecting to be attacked — they were, being such a mass to- 
gether, without provisions, barely a morsel of bread. I am so dis- 
tressed about poor Anton HohenzoUern and Obernitz; so many 
acquaintances and friends have fallen on both sides, it is dreadful! 

'The town is full of Prussians. I hope they will not remain too 



78 ALICE, GRAISTD DU<)HESS OF HESSE. 

long, for they pay for nothing, and the poor inhabitants sufter so 
much. There is cholera in the Prussian army, and one soldier lies 
here ill of it. 1 hope it won't spread. 

August 18. 
... It is fearful. Those who have seen the misery war 
brings with it, near by — the sufferings, the horror— know well what 
a scourge it is. May the Almighty spare our poor Germany this 
new evill 1 forgot to thank you in Louis' name, as he had told me, 
for your letter, which he found here on his return. He is to-day 
still at Berlin, and we are so grateful for your having written to 
good Fritz. What he can do 1 know he will. 

Uncle Louis is still at Munich, and I don't think he will abdicate; 
besides, he is at this moment doing what his country wishes. 

1 received a letter from Julie Battenberg, saying what Uncle Alex- 
ander had written to her about Louis: " Le Prince Alexandre 
m'ecril qu'il a obtenu du Grand Due la demission de Perglas " 
(who commanded the troops so badly), " et la nomination du Prince 
Louis en commandement de nos troupes; il me dit k cette occasion 
que votre Mari pendant cette triste campagne s'est fait aimer et ap- 
precier de tout le monde, qu'il s'est fait une excellente reputation, 
et qu'il sera regu ^ bras ouverts par la tro\ape." ... It is a 
large command for one so young, and with so little experience — all 
the more so, as we don't know how long peace may last. He is sent 
to Bei'lin, as the country all look to Louis to prevent new evil; and 
all this without poor Louis having any direct position of heir to be 
able to enforce his opinion He has no easy life of it. 

The horse you gave Louis he rode in the different engagements, 
and praised him very much. He stood the fire quite well, but not 
the bursting of the shells close by. 

About the children, the 23rd is quite soon enough for their de- 
parture. 

We shall not call baby " Irene," unless all seems really peaceful, 
and at this moment it does not look promising. 1 am very sad and 
dismayed at the whole look-out. My mother-in-law was so pleased 
with your letter, and thanks you warmly for it. 

Nlerstein, Gelbes Haus : August 17. 
This dear day makes me think so much of you, of home, and of 
those two dear ones whose memories are so precious, and who live 
on with us, and make me often think that we had parted only yes- 
terday. 

We are so pleased at your sayings that you claim Louis as your 
son. He always considers Jiimself in particular your child, and if any- 
thing helps to stimulate him in doing his duty well, it is the sincere 
wish of being worthy to claim and deserve that title. Darling Papa 
would be proud of him, and pleased to see how earnestly he takes 
his duties, and how conscientiously and unselfishly he fulfills them, 
for he has had and still has many trials — things 1 can tell you of 
when we meet again. 

Life is such a pilgrimage, and so uncertain is its duration, that all 
minor troubles are forgotten and easily borne, when one thinks what 
one must live for. 

Before leaving Darmstadt yesterday to come here, we went to 



ALICE, GKAND DUCHKSS OF HESSE. 79 

see some of the wounded again. One poor man had died since I 
"vas last there: he had been so patient, and had suffered so much. 
Another had had an operation performed and wtis verj'^ low — he was 
crying like a child. 1 could scarcely comfort him, he held vaj hand 
and always moaned out, " Es brennt so " [It burns so]. Such nice 
people most of those young men are — very young, and for that 
class so well educated. All who are well enough are reading. 

I must praise the ventilation and cleanliness in the different hos- 
pitals; in these things they have made wonderful progress here. 

We are here iu Rheinhessen, as Louis has to take his command. 
This place, Nierstein, lies betwefti Worms and ]Vlayence, and all our 
troops are quartered about here. Louis' staff is at Worms, where 
he himself is to-day, and was already last night. 

He was more hopeful about the prospects for Oberhessen on his 
return from Berlin, and had been so kindly received by dear Vicky 
and Fritz. 

When Louis wrote his Farewell to his cavalry brigade (who are so 
sorrj" to lose him), as a remembrance that he and they had stood in 
the field together for their first campaign, he asked these two regi- 
ments, officers and men, to stand sponsors to Baby, as she was born 
duiing that time, and they are delighted, but wish the child to have 
one of their names ! AVe wait till the troops can come home to 
christen Baby, on that account. ... 1 don't think we shall be 
here very long. Whenever the Prussians leave Darmstadt, we can 
return. 

Nierstein, Gelbes Haus : August 21. 

. . . We are here still, and all our troops, and Louis has a 
great deal to do. To-morrow the armistice is over, and at present 
we have no news as to its prolongation or the settlement of peace; 
but it must be one or other. A little private war of Prussia against 
us would be absurd and impossible, so the troops remain quartered 
in the different villages about here. The country here is so rich 
and fertile, the villages so clean, with such good houses; but the 
people are blessed with children to an extraordinary extent! It is 
the most richly populated part of all Germany, and there are more 
people on the square mile than in England. 

The change of air— though it is but two hours from Darmstadt — ■ 
has done me good, and if later, through your great kindness, a little 
.loumey should be possible to us, it would be very beneficial to both 
of us. 

This house is quite close to the Rhine, and this instant our 
pioneers have come by from Worms on their pontoon bridge singing 
a quartette, about twenty or thirty men. It looks so pretty, and they 
sing so beautifully. On their marches the soldiers always sing, and 
they have so many beautiful songs, such as : " Der gute'Kamerad." 
The Germans ure such a, (/emiii/dich [simple, kindly, sociable] people. 
The more one lives with them, the more one learns to appreciate 
them. It is a fine nation. God grant this war, which has produced 
so many heroes, and cost so many gallant lives, may not have been 
in vain, and that at length Germany may become a mighty, power- 
ful Power! It will then be the first in the world, where the great 
ideas aud thoughts come from, free from narrow-minded prejudice, 



80 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

and when once the Germans have attained political freedom, they 
will be lastingly happy and united. 

But the present state of things is sad, though one should not 
despair of some good resulting from it. 

Gelbes Haus : August 29. 
... The children anived well and safe, and in such good 
looks. It was a great pleasure to see them again; and I tried to 
make Victoria tell me as much as possible of dear Grandma and 
uncles and aunts, and when she is not absent-minded she is very 
communicative. How much we tffank you, darling Mamma, for 
having kept them and been so good to them, I can't tell you. This 
change has been so good for them; for now there are both cholera 
and small-pox at Darmstadt, which is still full of Prussian soldiers.. 
More have come, and our peace is not yet concluded, i hope it is no 
bad sign, and that the hopes of losing less will not disappear. 

We were only- in Darmstadt for the day when the children arrived, 
and we go there for a few hours to-morrow on business. Louis has 
a great deal to do, and all the military things are in his hands. 

1 am not feeling very well. The air here after a few days is relax- 
ing, and 1 begin to feel more what a strain there has been on my 
nerves during this time. I have such a pain in my side again. 
Mountain air Weber wants me to have, and quiet, away from all 
bothers ; but 1 fear that is impossible now, on account of Louis not 
being able to leave — and then financially. 

1 have some Heimweh [home-sickness] after dear England, Bal- 
moral , and all at home, 1 own, though the joy of being near dear 
Louis again is so great! But life is meant for work, and not for 
pleasure, and 1 learn more and more to be grateful and content with 
that which the Almighty sends me, and to find the sunshine in spite 
of the clouds; for when one has one's beloved, adored husband by 
one's side, what is there in the world that is too heavy to bear? My 
own darling Mamma, when I think of darling Papa and of you, and 
that he is n"ot msible at your side now, I long to clasp you to my 
heart, in some way to cheer the loneliness which is a poor widow's 
lot. Oh, none in the world is harder than that! 

Darmstadt: August 31. 
. . . Thank you for telling me how you spent that dear day; it 
must have been peaceful antl solemn, the beautiful country har- 
monizing well with the thoughts of that great and beautiful soul 
which ever lives on with us. He remains nearer and nearer to me, 
and the recollection of many things dear Papa told me is a help and 
a stay in my actions, particularly of late. The separation seems so 
short. 1 can see him and hear him speak so plainly. Alas! my 
children have never seen him. Through you, darling Mamma, and 
in your rooms, and at your side, they must learn to know him, that 
they may become worthy of their descent. 

Yesterday we saw the children. Victoria is not quite well, but 
Ella is well, and won't leave me when I come into the room; she 
keeps kissing me and putting her fat arms round my neck. There 
is each time a scene when I go away. She is so affectionate : so is 
dear Victoria. 1 send j'ou a photograph of oux" smallest, who is such 
a pretty child, and very good. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 81 

The peace is not concluded j'et; more Prussians have been quar- 
tered in and around Darmstadt. The people are very angry at this 
lasting so long. . , . They believe It is Strafeinquartierung [done to 
punish us]. Nothing is settled as to what we keep or lose, and we 
know and hear nothing. Waiting here, uncomfortably lodged, the 
troops impatient to go home, as they have nothing to do, gets veiy 
irksome. 

Gelbes Haus : September 8. 
... At last the peace is concluded, though not yet ratified. 
The terms are not so bad. We lose the Hinterland and the Domains 
there, as also the whole of Hesse-Homburg — in all sixty-four thou- 
sand souls — pay three millions contribution, besides having kept a 
large part of the Prussian army sis weeks for nothing, which cost 
the countiy twenty-five thousand florins daily. For Oberhessen we 
go into the North-German Bund, and half the army is under Prus- 
sian command, which will make a dreadful confusion. Louis would 
prefer having it for the whole, particularly in anticipation, alas ! of 
a coming w^ar. 

The railroads, posts, and telegraphs also become Prussian; and 
they demand, besides, some fine old pictures, books, and manu- 
scripts, which had once belonged to the Kolner Dom, and were made 
a present uf to this country j'ears ago ; and for our Domains no 
EnUchddigicng [compensation]. In exchange for Homburg we get 
some small places— amongst others, Rumpenheim. 

When the peace is ratified and the money paid, the Prussians leave 
the country, which must now be very shortly. Until then Louis 
must stop here, and as he can only get leave now and then to go to 
Darmstadt, and that always uncertain. Baby's christening is still im 
possible, as Louis must be there. She will be called " Irene Louise 
Marie Anna." 

« (Jelbes Haus : September 11. 

. . . Tired of constantly putting oft and waiting, we settled yes- 
terday to have Baby christened to-moiTow, as it is Louis' birthday, 
and to go for the day to Darmstadt. Though the Prussians are still 
there, some of the godfathers are coming over, otherwise it will be 
quite quiet. 

. . . How true and sad is what you say, dear Mamma, about life 
and its trials! Alas! that it should be you, dear loving kind 
Mamma, who have had to drink so deeplj'^ of that cup of bitterness. 
Those who possess all they love, as 1 do, can, however, feel all the 
more keenly, and sympathize more truly with you for what j'ou have 
lost, though it is a grief we do not know. How 1 do long always to 
alleviate this grief for you, dearest Mamma; but that is the world's 
trial. None can bear the burden for you. One must cany it one's 
self ; and it wants patience and courage to bear such as j^oui-s, dear 
Mamma. I feel for you now more than ever since during that month 
1 feared from day to day my happy life might be brought to a vio- 
lent close, and anticipated all the misery that might come, but which 
the Almighty graciously averted. 

Darmstadt : September 16, 
. . . Thai you sent Louis, besides the pretty souvenir, the money 
lor something in the house is really so kind. Our whole dining- 



82 ALICJ:, GBAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

room we consider your present, and it is furnished as like an En- 
glish one as possible. 

The name Irene,* through other associations, is one my parents-in- 
law and we like; it stands, besides, as a sort ot recollection of the 
peace so longed for, and which 1 so gladly welcomed. It will always 
remind us of the time, and of how much we have to be grateful for. 

Darmstadt : September 24. 
. . . We are settled here again ; our troops have, returned and 
Uncle Louis likewise. The former were received most warmly by 
the inhabitants and showo-ed with nosegays — Louis also, who rode 
at their head. We saw them all in front of the Schloss, and it was 
sad to see the thinned ranks and to miss the absent faces we knew 
so well. On the 13th and 14th of July at Frohnhofen, Laufach, and 
Aschaflenburg, out of 8,000 we lost 800 men and 11 officers, and of 
the officers just those who were very intimate with the Prussians, 
aad who wished Germany to be united under Prussia. 

This afternoon we are going to see after the poor wounded, some 
ot whom are still very ill with such horrible wounds. So much 
suffering and pain and grief to those poor people, who are innocent 
in this unhappy war! 

If only now the other sovereigns will forget their antipathies and 
the wrongs they have suffered from Prussia, and think of the real 
welfare of their people and the universal fatherland, and make those 
sacriiices which will be necessary to prevent the recurrence of these 
misfortunes! 

The poor Homburgcrs marched by with our troops, and their tears 
and ours fell as we saw them (who had fought so bravely under 
Uncle Louis) for the last time before they become Prussians, and 
return to their homes as such. 

My parents-in-law are gone to Switzerland. Henry is become 
Colonel of the 3nd Guard of Uhlans at Berlin. 

October 1. 
... I can but write a few lines, as we are going with the chil- 
dren to Uncle Alexander to Jugenheim for a few days. The change 
of air is wanted for Ella, who is still pale; and Irene has never had 
any change yet, and is also rather pale. 

Wei were at Frohnhofen and Laufach a few days ago to see where 
the unfortunate engagement was, and visited the graves of our 
soldiers. In the middle of a field there is a mound, below which 
some eighty men and officers lie, and so on. It makes a very sad 
impression, for as our troops retreated, and they were buried by the 
people, none know which of the common soldiers or even which of 
the officers lie in the different places. We found some balls, and 
things the soldiers had thrown off during the fight. In one grave in 
the church j'^ard, the wounded who died afterward are buried. 1 
asked who lay there, and the gravedigger answered, " Ein Preuss' 
und ein Hess' liegen dort beisammen " ["A Prussian and a Hessian 
lie there together "], united in death, and fallen by each other's 

* The Princess Charles had a sister, who died when a child, who had borne 
that name. 



ALICE, GEAND DUCHKSS OF HESSE. 83 

hands, perhaps. Some of the officers who accompanied us, and had 
not been there since the engagement, were much overcome on seeing 
the graves of their comrades. I put wreaths and flowers on them, 
and ordeietl crosses where we linew who lay there. 

The wounded here are recovering, and 1 go often to see after 
them. 

As you say, this large Prussia is by no means an united Germany; 
but, nevertheless, I think the duty of the other German sovereigns, 
in spite of all, is to unite with Prussia and place themselves under 
her, so as to make her imite with Germany. Otherwise, the next 
opportunity, they will be annexed. 

Heiligenburg:, Jugenheim : October 7. 
. . . We return to town to-day, leaving the children for another 
week, as the air on the hill is so delicious. Louis has so much to do 
that he can't remain away longer, though he went at half-past seven 
every morning to his office, returnmg for luncheon. 

Darmstadt : October 32. 
On Thursday we are going toWaldleiningenfor a fortnight and 
take Victoria with us. The two little girls knew your photograph 
at once, and began, of course, to talk of you and of England. 

Waldleiningen : October 31. 
... It is quite beautiful here. We found dear Ernest, Marie 
and children well; the former so kind and dear, as they always are. 
Victoria and Alberta get on tolerably together. The liitle boy is 
splendid, so strong and fat. 

The Castle is so" fine and lies just in the midst of mountains and 
woods, and thefe are walks without end — many of them reminding 
me so much of Scotland. 

The Nichels came to see us, and Marie and 1 played with Nichel; * 
it reminded me so much of the good old times to see him. 

Ella's birthday is to be kept when we return. She is too small to 
know the difference of the day. 1 thank you beforehand for the 
locket for her with dear Papa's picture. The children always speak of 
their two Grandpapas — dear Grandpapa in Heaven, and dear Grand- 
papa in Darmstadt. Victoria, hearing Papa so often mentioned, and 
seeing his pictures about everywhere, asks no end of questions about 
him. 

Darmstadt : November 14. 

I am better, thank you, but 1 am so weak without the least reason, 
and dreadfully chilly. Still, I go out regularly in all weathers and 
take exercise, but of an evening I am quite knocked up. 

We always breakfast at half -past eight, as Louis gets up early and 
prefers it; so that 1 lead a very healthy life, and in spite of that am 
not well. A change quite into another climate for a few months 
was what 1 really required ; but it was impossible. On tliat ac- 
count, dear Mamma, 1 shall hope to have full three months in Eng- 
land, when we come, and perhaps part of the time with Bertie, if he 
can have us. I went through a great deal this summer during my 

* Formerly one of the Koyal Baud in England. Madame Nichel had been a 
dresser of the Duchess of Keuts. 



84 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

conflneraent. The excitement and the will to keep well kept me so 
at the time, but I feel it now, alas! and show it, too, for I am get- 
ting so thin again. 

Darmstadt: November 21. 

Dear Vicky's birthday. She will think how happily she passed 
it at Windsor last year, and, though she has another child, it cannot 
replace to her what the other one was. 

How glad 1 am to hear you praise dear Alix! She is so good, 
tactvoll [full of tact] and true. 1 love her very much. 

I had the pleasure of seeing dear Countess Blucher for a few hours 
here last Sunday. She came during a dreadful snowstorm. The 
young King of Bavaria is coming here for the day to-morrow. . . . 

The large pictures from Homburg — George 111., Queen Charlotte, 
George IV., William IV., and the Duke of York e7ipied—\]nc\e 
Louis has given us, and now that 1 have given these good people, 
whom 1 don't like, the best places in our rooms, I should so much 
like you and dear Papa, which you promised me some years ago 
from the last Winterhalters, or from those in the Garter dress. 

1 look forward so much to seeing dear Bertie here, if oniy for a 
few hours. 1 suppose Monday or Sunday, if he travels day and 
night, as he leaves on Friday; it is a very long and cold journey. 

November 23. 
A thousand thanks for the precious book,* and for your dear 
lines. The former 1 have nearly finished. I got it yesterday morn- 
ing;, and you can well imagine that every spare moment was devoted 
to its study. 

1 think it very well done, and I am only sorry that General Grey 
cannot continue it, as the other persons, 1 believe, did not know 
dear Papa. The longer 1 live, the more 1 see and know of the world, 
the deeper my tender admiration grows for such a father. It makes 
me feel myself so small, so imperfect, when 1 think that I am his 
child, and am still so unworthy of being it. How many people here 
who like to hear of dear Papa ask me about him, and you can un- 
derstand with what pride and love 1 tal k of him, and tell them 
things which make them all share our sorrow at not having him here 
any more! But if eyer a life has outlived a man, dear Papa's has 
done so. In my thoughts and aims he ever remains the center 
and the guiding star. Dear beloved Papa, he never half knew, how 
much, even when a foolish child, 1 loved and adored him. His 
great life will be a model for many and many for generations to 
come, and his great thoughts and aims can leave none idle who 
knew them. 

You kindly ask how 1 am. Better, thank you, since 1 have begun 
some bark — quinine 1 can't take, or else 1 should have been well 
sooner. 

Victoria 1 am teaching to read — in playing with cards with differ- 
ent letters on them. 

November -30. 

To-day it is six whole years since we were engaged to each other 
in the Red Drawing-room at Windsor, when we in dear Papa's little 

* The Early Years of the Prince Contort, by the late General Grey, 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 85 

room afterward received your and dear Papa's sanction to it. And 
the following- year — how sad that already was, for darling Papa was 
beginning to be unwell. How constantly do 1 think of you, beloved 
Mamma, during that fortnight of anxiety and sorrow! God merci- 
fully spared you lo us, though for yourself it was the commence- 
ment of the sad and lonely existence you lead without dear Papa. 

1 am sure it is good for little Henry * to be this winter with you 
in England: the Berlin climate is very unwholesome. Health is 
such a blessing. If one has children, the first wish is they should 
be healthy, lor ill health influences all, and nothing more than tem- 
per. * , 

We intend, if possible, going for a day or two to Carlsruhe. Poor 
Louise and Fritz went through so much that is painful this sum- 
mer. . . . 

I read an immense deal now of serious, and what some call dry, 
books; but it is a great resource to me, and the thought ot standing 
still, if one does not study, urges me on. The long winter evenings 
we always spend together, and twice in the week receive in the even- 
iug, when 1 play on the piano duets with such as play on the violin, 
and pass the evenings very pleasantly. 

Carlsruhe : December 6. 

Thousand thanks for your dear letter ! I congratulate you on all 
having gone off so well at Wolverhampton,! and am very grateful for 
the account. Dear Bertie's visit is over, and it has been a very great 
pleasure to us to have seen hiui again, and to have him under our 
own roof — where we at length had an opportunity, in a small way, 
to return his hospitality and constant kindness to us. God bless 
him, dear brother! he is the one who has from my childhood been 
so dear to me. 

We have come here, and 1 think it has pleased good Fritz. Louis 
seems very well. 1 saw Lady Fanny Baillie yesterday, looking dear 
and pretty as ever. It is a pleasure to look at her sweet face. 

Carlsruhe: December 11. 

As every year during these days my thoughts are with you, and as 
each year brings round again the anniversary of that dreadful mis- 
fortune, it seems more and more impossible that five years should 
already have elapsed, since He whom we all love so tenderly was 
taken from our sight. How I thank the Almighty again and again, 
as this season I'eturns, that He spared you to us, when at such a mo- 
ment we trembled for your precious life, fearing that two such unit- 
ed in life even in death couldnot be parted. What should we poor 
children, what would the country have done, had that second mis- 
fortune come over us! Yet is seemed selfish and unkind to wish for 
your loving wife's heart the solitary widow's existence. How 
bravely and nobly you have borne it ! 

We leave this to-morrow morning, and have spent pleasant days 
here. There was much talk about' together, and Fritz is so excel- 
lent and so wise, that 1 am always glad to hear him. Dear Louise 
is well and in good looks, and most kind. 

* Son of the Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia. 

t The uncovering of the monument to the Prince Consort. 



86 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Now 1 must end, beloved Mamma. God bless you and comfort 
you, and in these days let sometimes the thought of your absent 
child, who was at your side during that dreadful time, mingle with 
the recollection of the past! 

Darmstadt: Dec. 14. 
Beloved, precious Mamma, — On awaiting this morning, 
my first thoughts were of you and of dear darling Papa! Oh, how 
it reopens the wounds scarcely healed, when this day of pain and 
anguish returns! This season of the year, the leafless trees, the cold 
light, everything reminds me of that time! 

Thousand thanks for your dear letter received yesterday. Well, 
only too well, do 1 remember every hour, almost every minute, of 
those days, and 1 have such an inexpressible longing to throw my 
arms round your neck and to let my tears flow with yours, while 
kneeling at that beautiful grave. 

The tender love and the deep sorrow caused by His loss remained 
ever with me, and will accompany me through life. At the age I 
then was, with its sensitive feelings, it made an impression which, 1 
think, nothing can efface — above all, the witnessing your grief. 
Happily married as I am, and with sucli a good, excetlent and lov- 
ing husband, how far more can 1 understand now the depth of that 
grief, which tore your lives asunder! I played our dear Papa's 
, organ under his beloved picture this morning, and my heart and my 
thoughts were in dear England with you all. 

We found our children well on your return, and Irene prospers 
perfectly on her donkey's milk. 

My mother-in-law is so much pleased with the book,* and it has 
interested her very much. She came to see me early this morning 
on account of its Deing the 14th. She is always so kind and full of 
attentions. 

Darmstadt: Dee. 17. 

How dear of you to have written to me on the 14th: thousand 
thanks for your letter! How much 1 thought of all on that day you 
can imagine; also what good it did me to know, that you still 
thought of me so kindly with those recollections. 1 am so sorry to 
hear that you are so suffering. 1 hope Osborne will do you good, 
and that rest and quiet will refresh you. 

Darmstadt: Dec. 21. 

... 1 hope by this time that you are quite recovered, though 
this mild damp weather js not made to give one strength. I feel it 
so much also, and am really only kept alive by steel, for off and on 
1 am so weak, that 1 nearly faint if 1 have to stand any time, and 
this is so unpleasant. 

... 1 am trying to found what is no small undertaking: a 
" Frauenverein, " to be spread ail over the land in different commit- 
tees, the central one being here under my direction, for the purpose 
of assisting the International Convention for nursing and supporting 
the troops in time of war, which was founded at Geneva, and to 
which this country also belongs. The duty in time of peace will be 
to have nurses brought up and educated for the task, who can then 
assist in other hospitals or amongst the poor, or to nurse the rich, 

* General Grey's Early. Years of the Prince Consort. 



ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 87 

wherever they may be required, in time of war. This committee of 
women has to collect all the necessary things for the wounded and 
for the marching troops, has to see to their being sent to right 
places, &c. 

All these things were done by private people in this war, and, 
though quantities of things were sent the whole plan was not organ- 
ized, so that there was want and surplus at the same time. 

In time of peace these things should be organized, so that, when 
war comes, people know where to send their things to, and that no 
volunteer riurses go out, who have not first learnt tlieir business. 

The same thing exists in Baden, in Bavaria, and in Prussia, and 
here it is much wanted. But all these undertakings are difficult, 
particularly in the choice of persons to assist one. Still 1 hope I 
shall be able to do it. My mother-in-law helps me, and I hope be- 
fore long to be able to begin. 

The Elector is coming here on a visit to-day, and Uncle Alexander 
returned from Petersburg last night. 

Darmstadt : December 25. 
... 1 have a dreadful cold, and am not very well besides, so 
I can but scribble a few lines. To-day we go to the Beseheerung 
[distribution of Christmas gifts] to the wounded in three hospitals. 
Of course it will be very hot. 

Hemy is here for a few days. He looks so handsome in his new 
uniform with his dark beard. H^e has grown so good-looking these 
last few years, and he is so excellent. I am very fond of him. He 
is likewise so much gayer than formerly. 

The good eatables you sent will be given to-night, when. Louis' 
parents and brothers come to us for dinner. 

The children have a party for their tree. 

Darmstadt : December 30. 
. . . May the Almighty give you every blessing of peace and 
comfort which the world can still give you, till you gain that greater 
blessing and reward above all others, which is reserved for such as 
my own sweet mother! May. every blessing fall on my old dear 
home, with all its dear ones! May peace, and the glory which peace 
and order bring with it, with its many blessings, protect my native 
land; and may, in the new year, your wise and glorious reign, so 
overshadowed by dear Papa's spirit, continue to prosper and be a 
model and an ornament to the world ! 

This year of pain and anxiety, and yet for us so rich in blessings, 
draws to a close. It moves me more that ever as its last day ap- 
proaches. For how much have we not to thank the Almighty — for 
my life, which is so unworthy compared to many others, the new 
life of this little one, and above all the preservation of my own dear 
husband, who is my all in this life. 

The trials of this year must have brought some good with all the 
evil : good to the individual and good to the multitude. God grant 
we may all profit b}' what we have learnt, and gain more and more 
that trust in God's justice and love, which is our guide and support 
in trouble and in joy! Oh, more than ever have 1 felt in this year 
that God's goodness and love are indeed beyond comprehension! 
... 1 am really glad to hear that you can listen to a little 



88 ALICE, GKAXD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

music. Music is sucli a heavenly thing, and dear Papa loved it so 
much, that 1 can't but think that now it must be- soothing, and 
bring you near to him. . . . 



1867. 



The experiences of the late war had shown the necessity for an 
efficient and widespread organization foi aid to the sick and wounded 
on the battlefield. Already in 1865 a society had been formed in 
Hesse, with Prince and Princess Charles as its patrons, in accord- 
ance with the resolutions passed at the Geneva Convention in 1863, 
and had done good work in the last war. The nursing of the 
wounded had hitherto been undertaken by " Deaconesses," Sisters 
of Mercy, and Orders of a kindred nature. 

After the close of the war, those at the head of the committee (or 
societj^) made themselves responsible, so far as lay in their power, for 
the wounded and disabled, and for the families of those who had 
fallen in the war. It was, however, felt to be very desirable that 
other committees should be formed throughout the country for the 
purpose of training speciallj^-qualifled nurses. 

The Princess was deeply interested in this question — indeed, her 
whole attention had been directed to it since the beginning of the 
war, after she had seen what was done in Baden under the direction 
of the Grand Duchess. She had also before her Ihe example of Flor- 
ence Nightingale, and the good she had done during and after the 
Crimean War. The Princess was naturally fond of nursing, and of 
all that had to do with it, and she therefore eagerly took up the idea 
of founding a Frauen-Verein or " Ladies' Union " — an idea which, 
under her auspices, was soon most successfullj'' carried out. 

She wished lay women and ladies of all classes to join in this 
undertaking, so that the nursing should not be confined, as hereto- 
fore, to religious orders only. After much consultation a committee 
was formed in 1867, consisting of six ladies and four doctors, with 
the Princess as President. The central committee of the " Ladies' 
Union "was to be at Darmstadt, under the Princess's direction. 
The other committees spread over the whole country. Its object 
was to assist " the nursing and supporting of the troops in times of 
war," and in times of peace to " train nurses, to assist other hospi- 
tals, or amongst the poor, or to nurse the rich " — in fact, to help 
wherever help was required. In 1868 the members belonging to the 
" Ladies' Union " had greatly increased, and in 1869 they reached the 
number of 3,500. 

The duty of the local committees consisted in collecting money 
and all necessary materials for the wounded or for the troops on 
the march. The central committee did its best in times of peace to 
direct the general attention to this most important question by lect- 
lu-es on the subject, delivered by medical men. 

At the time ' the Princess started this undertaking she was also 
much occupied with another all engrossing subject — viz., the im- 
provement of the condition of poor unmarried women and girls, as 
well as the education of girls in general. The Princess found an 
able assistant in Fraulein Louise Buchner— a most distinguished 



ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 89 

aullioress, aud the champion of women's rights, more particularly 
of the higher education of women. 

With her help the Princess formed another committee for the en- 
couragement of " Female Industry." A permanent Bazaar was es- 
tablished on the 25lh of November, 1867, called after the Princess, 
, " The Alice Bazaar," for the purpose of receiving and disposing of 
articles of needlework at their proper value, and also for obtaining 
employment for women of all classes. The " Bazaar " soon became 
a floiu'ishing institution. 

At the beginning of the year 1867 the Prince and Princess went to 
Gotha, where they met the Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia for 
the first time since the war. They then went for a few weeks to 
Berlin. After the threatening rumors of war caused by the Luxem- 
bourg question had been dispersed, the Emperor Napoleon invited 
all the Sovereigns and Princes of Europe to visit the great Interna- 
tional Exhibition at Paris. Prince and Princess Louis, amongst 
others, accepted the invitation, and were at Paris at the same time 
as the Emperr r of Russia, the King of Prussia, and the Crown 
Prince and Pr-incess of Prussia. The Prince and Princess visited 
many other places of interest and note at Paris besides the great Ex- 
hibition. All institutions for art had a great attraction for her, and 
she took up the idea most warmly of foimding Schools of Design in 
her own country, as she hoped they would exercise a good influence 
there. 

During the Prince and Princess's visit the great review of the Im- 
perial troops in the Bois de Boulogne took place; and on that day, 
too, the happily unsuccessful attempt on the Emperor of Eussia's 
life was made. 

After attending all the festivities at the Imperial Court, where the 
Prince and Princess received every possible attention and kindness 
from the Emperor and Empress, they left Paris on the lOlh of June, 
and, having met their children at Calais, crossed over to England. 
During this stay in England the Princess visited the German and 
many other Hospitals, aiid she also assisted in doing the honors for 
the Queen at several Court festivities. She was present at Windsor 
and Osborne during the visits of the Sultan, who had been so cor- 
dially received in England, and in whose honor a great naval review 
at Spithead was held. 

Prince and Princess Louis returned to Darmstadt in the first days 
of August; and, having established their children there, they left for 
St. Moritz in the Engadine, where they intended to spend a month, 
and where the Princess was to take the baths. 

Whilst there they made several excursions, traveling about quite 
simply, like any other tourists. 

On their way to Germany, the Prince and Princess spent a few 
days with the Grand Duke and Grand Duchess of Baden on the 
island of Mainau on the Lake of Constance. During the autumn 
the Princess met several of her own brothers and sisters. She also 
went to Cassel to meet the Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia, 
who were returning from a visit to England. 



90 ALICE, GRAN-D DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Gotha : January 15. 
... It is a great happiness to be with dear Yicky and Fritz, 
and the future— that whicli is to be feared, that which must inevi- 
tably come — is of course our constant talk. Whatever comes, our 
position, and that of other small sovereigns, must undergo a change, 
which for the older ones will be very hard, and which they will ever 
feel. Even dear Louis, who is so sensible and reasonable, says he 
has been brought up with particular rights, which for centuries 
have been ours, and he feels sore that he is never to inherit them. 

Dear aunt seems very well, and is ever liKe a second mother to us, 
so loving and kind; also dear uncle. Papa's and your children are 
dear to him almost as though they were his own; and he lives to 
see us with our families and in our homes, whereas darling Papa 
does not. T esterday the Brant von Messina was given — that beauti- 
ful piece which Papa was so fond of. 1 thought so much of you. 

On Thursday Yicky and Fritz go to Berlin. We remain here un- 
til bunday afternoon, as on Sunday is the Ordensfest; and as many 
(vill be decorated who fought against us, Louis thought it better to 
arrive after the ceremony. Hermann is here still. He has been to 
see Feo,* who has been very ill. Fritz William [the Crown Prince] 
saw Ada and Fritz Holstein at Carlsruhe and Fritz and Anna of 
Hesse — all four turned out of their countries 

I am delighted to hear of dear Arthur having passed so good an 
examination. How proud you must be of him! And the good 
Major, f who has spared no pains, 1 know — how pleased he must 
be ! Arthur has a uniform now, 1 suppose. 

Berlin : January 26. 

. .^ . We remain here a little longer, probably until the follow- 
ing Saturday, as the King, owing to his cold, could not see us often, 
and begged us to remain longer. 

I savr Amalie Lauchert:]: here two days ago, looking as well and 
channing as ever. 

Little Vicky is such a darling, very like her poor little brother — 
so merry, so good, one never hears her cry — and it is really a com- 
fort to Vicky to have that dear little thing. Poor Vicky is very sad 
and low at times. 

After intense cold it is quite warm, like spring, which is very un- 
wholesome and tiring. 

Darmstadt: February 16. 

... 1 think 1 can understand what you must feel. I know 
well what those first three years were — what fearful suffering, tear- 
ing and uprooting those feelings which had been centered in beloved 
Papa's existence! It is indeed, as you say, " in mercy," that after 
the long storm a lull and calm ensues, though the violent pain, 

* Princess Feodore Victoria Adelaide Paulina Amalia Maria, daughter of 
Queen Victoria's sister, the Princess Hohenlohe-Langenburg-, and wife gf the 
Hereditary Prince, now the Duke of Saxe-Meiningen. She died at the age of 
thirty-three, on the 10th of February, 1872. 

t Major Elphinstone, Prince Arthur's Governor from 1859, now Sir Howard 
Elphinstone, K.C.B. 

% Princess Amalie of Hohenlohe-Schillingsfiirst, niece of Queen Victoria's 
late brother-in-law. Prince of Hohenlohe-Langenburg, married to an artist, 
Herr Lauphert. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 91 

whicli is but the reverse side of the violent love, seems ouly to die 
out with it, and that is likewise bitter. Yet, beloved Mamma, 
could it be otherwise? There would be no justice or mercy, were 
the first stage of sorrow to be the perpetual one; and God grant that 
time may still soothe and alleviate that which it cannot change! I 
can only imagine what the loss must be, if 1 measure it by the pos- 
session of that one adored being, who is the center and essence of 
vay existence. 

Darmstadt : February 28. 
. . . Yesterday we had a very interesting lecture in our house 
about Art in Venice by a young Swede [Herr von Molin], who has 
been studying three years in Italy. We had the room full of people, 
artists and professors, who liked to listen. 

. . . All the natural cleverness and sharpness in the world won't 
serve nowadays, unless one has leai'nt something. 1 feel this so 
much; and just in our position it is more and more required and ex- 
pected, particularly in a small place where so much depends on the 
personal knowledge and exertions of the Princes. 

Darmstadt : March 8. 
, . . The knowledge of dear sweet Alix's state makes me too 
sad. It is hard for them both, and the nursing must be very fatigu- 
ing for Mrs. Clarke. I am so distressed about darling Alix that 1 
really have no peace. It may, and probably will, last long, which is ■ 
so dreadful.* 

March 28. 

. . . We mean to have some children on the 5th, so that Vic- 
toria can have a party. 

My father-in-law is better again, I am happy to say. The warm 
weather did him good at once. 

Darmstadt: April 1. 

... I could not write the other day, as I had a good deal to do 
with two committees for charities, which had to be got into order, 
and which took up a great deal of my time. 

Cold, hail, snow, and rain have returned; and Ir5ne has got a 
cold, which most people here have. The weather is so unpleasant. 

We shall stop here in town until we go to England, as we have 
now^here to go to before. It is a pity for the children to have no 
country air, and they miss the flowers in their walks. 1 can't praise 
Orchardf enough. Such order she keeps, and is so industrious and 
tidy, besides understanding so much about the management of the 
children's health and characters. 

Darmstadt : April 5. 
Thousand thanks for your dear letter, and for the kind wishes for 
Victoria's birthday! 1 pray she may be a worthy granddaughter and 
goddaughtei of my darling Mamma! 1 shall never forget that day — 
your kindness to us, and the tender nurse you were. ... 

Victoria means to dictate a letter to you; she is so much pleased 

* The Princess of Wales was suffering at the time from rheumatic fever and 
rheumatism. 

+ Their nurse, who is still (188-1) with the youngest child, Princess Alix. 



93 ALICE, GRA^-D DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

with her presents. Ir&ne has not a tooth yet, and is not very fat, 
poor little thing ! but she is fresh and rosy, and, 1 think, strong. 

This last week the excitement here has been dreadful, as all an- 
ticipated a war with France on account of Luxemburg. I fear 
sooner or later it will come. May the Almighty avert sucn a calam- 
ity! 

"The Moriers were quite in ecstasies about your handsome present. 
The christening* went off very well. 

April 8. 

. , . We have just returned from church, and to-morrow morn- 
ing we all take the Sacrament at nine o'clock in the Schlosskirche. 
Professor Jowett is here on a visit to the Moriers, and is going to 
read the service on Simday. 1 have not had an opportunity to at- 
tend our English service since we were at Windsor, excepting one 
Sunday at Berlin with Vicky and Fritz. 

People think now, the evil of war is put off for a few weeks, but 
that is all. Henry is here for Easter, and says the same from all he 
heard at Berlin. 

April 21. 

. . . How I wish you may be right in not believing in war. 1 
always fear it is not Luxemburg, but the intense jealousj'' of the 
French nation, that they should not be the first on the Continent, 
and that Germany is becoming independent and powerful against 
their will. Then, again, the Germans feel their new position, and 
assert their rights with more force because unanimous, and neither 
nation will choose to give in to the other. 

The war would be totally useless, and sow no end of dissension 
and hatred between the two neighbor countries, who, for their own 
good as for that of mankind, ought to live in peace and harmony 
with each other. 

We seem drifting bact to the Middle Ages, as each question is 
pushed to the point of the sjvord. It is most sad. How dear Papa 
would have disapproved of much that has happened since 1862! 

Is the Catalogue which Mr. Ruland sent some time ago to Mr. 
Woodward for dear Papa's Raphael Collection in print now?f So 
many people know of its coming out, and are anxious to see it, as, 
indeed, 1 am likewise, for it is the only complete colled ion in the 
world, and the world of art is anxious to know all about it, Will 
you, perhaps, let me know through Mr. Sahl,t as I believe it is 
already a good while since you approved of its being published, and 
gave the orders for its being printed. 

May 2. 

As yet none dare to be sure of the peace, but all live again since 
there are more chances for its being maintained. But then, I trust it 
will be a permanent peace, not merely a putting off till next year! 

The French press was so very warlike, and it always talks of the 
French honor not being able to allow such a mighty empire as the 
German is becoming to gain the upper hand; and then rectification 
of her frontiers, always wishing for the Rhine. 

* Of their child, to whom Queen Victoria stood sponsor. 

+ This Catalogue was not completed and made public till 1876, 

X Her Majesty's private librarian. 



ALICE, GKAKD DUCHllSS OF HESSE. 93 

Poor little Anna of Mecklenburg is here ; it seemed so sad to see 
the dear liltle child come alone to inhabit the rooms its Mamma had 
never returned to. She looks delicate, very fair, but with dark, 
thick eyebrows and eyelashes; rather shy and silent, for she has no 
little children to play with in her home. My two led her about at 
once, and tried to amuse her. Ella, who is five months older, is a 
head taller and twice as broad. 1 am so afraid they will be too 
rough with her, for dear, fat Ella is very strong, and by no means 
gentle. 

Annchen has an old nervous nurse, who is too frightened about 
her. It is a great responsibility, where there is no mother. It looks 
so sad! 

May 13. 

1 must tell you something in confidence of what has taken place 
here with regard to Louis. . . . Since Louis took the command last 
August, and since the Convention with Prusoia has been settled, 
Louis has been opposed by Uncle Louis and the Kriegsministerium 
[War Department], in doing all the things which he thought abso- 
lutely necessary, and which toward Prussia the Grand Duke had 
promised to do, so as to get the troops into the necessary order and 
organization. Here the Government is, Louis has reason to fear, once 
more playing a false game toward Prussia, and all his true friends 
and a small party of the clever-thinking people have encouraged him 
in the idea that, to serve his country, he may and must not be im- 
pl icated in the present sad and desperate state of affairs. 

It has cost him a great struggle to make up his mind to ask Uncle 
Louis to accept his resignation, which he has been obliged to de- 
mand, as he felt that under present circumstances he could not 
fulfill what was desired of him. 

Uncle Louis may refuse to let him go; then he intends to ask for 
leave until the 1st of October, the date when the Convention must 
be carried out, when he hopes and trusts the King will send a Prus- 
sian general to put all in order. 

Uncle Louis and his Umgebung [the people about him] will all be 
against my Louis, as they think it a shame and injustice to give up 
any of their rights, and that it is unpardonable of Louis to act^up to 
what he has always said. He is so good a nephew, that all this will 
be dreadfully painful to him; but he is quite convinced that his duty 
to his country and his future demands this step of him. He is 
obliged to go away from here, as he does not think it right for him 
to be always in the opposition to Uncle Louis, and as he cannot gain 
by it what the country and the troops require. Oq account of all 
these reasons he considers it right to leave. 

He wished me to write all this to you, as he knows you will 
understand and not disapprove the confidence he bestows on one on 
whose opinion he quite relies. He looks forward so much to coming 
to England, as he is worried and harassed by all that has happened. 
In all this he has again shown, as of old, that he always places Am- 
self and his wishes and feelings in the background, and that to serve 
others and to do his duty are the sole aims of his existence. He will, 
as soon as he has received an answer from the Grand Duke, tele- 
graph to you to settle our plans. The children are overjoyed at the 
prospect of seeing their dear Grandmamma again. 



94 ALICE, GRAl^D DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

1 am not up to very much, I don't always feel quite strong; but 
the change will do me good, 1 am sure. 

May 16. 

The Grand Dufee has not as yet consented to Louis' resignation. 
Louis has made conditions, under which it will be possible for him 
to remain, if Uncle L. consents. The first condition is to have a 
Prussian officer at his side. The Grand Duke declared he would 
sooner lose his country than give his consent to that. Louis has now 
officially written his letter of requirements, and sent it. But, what- 
ever happens, he will be able to get a short leave, he thinks, by the 
beginning of June. 

May 19. 

The military affair is at length settled. Uncle Louis has given in 
to the points Louis demanded, and he retains his command. All are 
astonished at Louis' unlooked-for success in this aifair, and as 
Uncle L. would not have a Prussian General, and had no one here 
to take in Louis' stead, who could do things well, he had to agree 
and to allow what Louis was justified in asking. Louis' firmness 
and decision have done great good, and all are tliankful to him for 
it, though others, who ought to do as he has done, have never shown 
the courage. 

Louis is laid up with the most awful nettle-rash all over face and 
body, and is so unwell with it. He has had it now three days. 
Altogether since the winter, or rather since the war, he has had so 
much cause for vexation, that he lias been constantly unwell; and 
each time he is much worried he has an attack of illness. 

May 29. 
... I presided at my committee of seven ladies and four gen- 
tlemen a long while yesterday, and to-morrow I have my other one, 
which is more numerous. It is an easy task, but 1 hope we shall 
have good results from our endeavors. 

Paris : June 9. 

I really am half killed from sight-seeing and fgtes, but all has in- 
terested me so much, and the Emperor and Empress [of the French] 
have been most kind. Yesterday was the ball at the Hotel de Ville, 
quite the same as it had been for you and dear Papa, and there were 
more than 8000 people there. It was the finest sight I have ever 
'seen, and it interested me all the more, as 1 knew it V7as the same as 
in the year when you were at Paris. 

Every morning we went to the Exhibition, and every evening 
there was a dinner or ball. It was most fatiguing. To-morrow 
morning we leave, and had really great trouble to get away, for the 
Emperor and Empress and others begged us so much to remain for 
the ball at the Tuileries to-moirow night; but we really could not, 
on account of Wednesday's concert,* as we should barely arrive in 
time. 

The attentat on the Emperor of Russia was dreadful, aad we were 
close by at the time. The Empress can't get over it, and she does not 
leave Uncle Sache'sf side for an instant now, and takes him every- 
where in her carriage. 

* At Buckingham Palace, t The Emperor of Russia, 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OP HESSE. 95 

To-flay we are going with the whole Court to Versailles. Dear 
Vicky is gone. She was so low the last days, and dislikes going to 
parties so much just now, that she was longing to get home. The 
King [of Prussia] wished them both to stop, but only Fritz re- 
mained. How sad these days will be for her, poor love! She was in 
such good looks ; everyone here is charmed with her. 

[Puring the months of June and July, 1867, the Princess with her 
family was on a visit in England.] 

Darmstadt: August 4. 

We arrived here at midnight on Friday and 1 was so knocked 
up . . . that I was incapable of doing anything yesterday. 

. . . My poor Willem* was buried yesterday. Everyone re- 
grets the poor child, for he was very dear. 1 miss him so much 
here, for he did everything for me, and liked being about me and 
the children. All our servants went to the burial. It quite upset 
me here not to find him, for 1 was really attached to him, and he 
learnt so well, and was in many ways so nice, though of course 
troublesome too at times. How short life is, and the instant one is 
gone, he is so wiped away for others, and one knows so absolutely 
nothing about the person any more! Were it not for a strong faith 
in a future, it would indeed be cruel to bear. No one of the family 
is here. We leave to-morrow for Zurich, where we shall be at ten 
at night; the next day to Chur and the next day to St. Moritz. 

St. Moritz : August 1. 

With perfect weather we accomplished our journey perfectly, and 
were enchanted with the beautiful scenery from Zurich here, not to 
speak of this place. 

The first day— 5th — we left Darmstadt at 11 a.m., and did not 
reach Zurich till eleven at night. We got two little rooms in the 
Hotel Baur, but the whole place was full. The next morning after 
breakfast we weut to look at the lovely lake, which is green and 
quite transparent. It was a beautiful warm morning. We left by 
rail at ten, partly along the lake of Zurich and then along the Wal- 
lenstadter See, which'is long and narrow, with high perpendicular 
mountains down to the water — very wild and picturesque. This 
lake likewise is of that marvelous green color. We reached Chur at 
three that afternoon — a pretty small town, situated close up against 
a mountain. We visited a beautiful old church there, which con- 
tains fine old pictures and relics; it was built in the time of the Re- 
mans, and is still the chief church of the bishopric. 

The next morning we two, with Sarah, Logoz and Our footman, 
left at six o'clock in a diligence (we both sitting in the coupe in 
front) with four horses, for here the road is the grandest one can 
imagine, perpetually ascending for two hours, and then descending 
again, always along precipices, and the horses at a quick trot turn- 
ing sharp round the corners— which 1 assure you, is a trial to the 
best nerves. We drove over the Julier Pass, which was a road al- 
ready used by the Romans, and which is almost the highest in Switz- 

* The Princess's servant (see ante, p. 28). The boy was brought {rom Java 
by Baron Schenk-Schmittburg. His father was a negro, his mother a 
Javanese. 



96 ALICE, GRATSTD DUCKESS OF HESSE. 

erland. One passes close to the lop of the mountains, wliicli have 
snow on them, and arp wild and rug.^ed like the top of Lochnagar. 
Lower down, the mountains are covered with bright green grass and 
fir-trees, but rocks look out everywhere, and there are constantly- 
lovely waterfalls. 

After crossing the Pass, we drove down — very steep, of course 
nothing on the edge of the road, always zigzag, and at a sharp trot 
— for some distance down to Silva Plana, where the view over the 
valley and lakes of the Engadine, where St. Moritz lies, is beyond 
description beautiful. 

We reached this m the evening at six o'clock, the weather being 
most beautiful. The Curhaus is below the town, and looks like a 
large asylum. It is overfilled with people. We have two rooms, 
but our people as yet none, though they hope for some to-morrow. 

1 saw Dr. Berry, a little Swiss man, and he recommended me to 
take the baths twice a week, besides drinking the waters; which 1 
have begun this morning at seven o'clock, the usual hour, as one 
has to walk up and down a quarter of an hour between the glasses. 
The bath 1 took at ten. It is tepid and also iron water, which bub- 
bles like soda water, and makes one feel as if insects were crawling 
over one. 

Lina Aumale is here, the Parises and Nemours. Fritz and Louise 
[of Baden] leave to-morrow. This afternoon we drove with them, 
m two funny little " VVageli " with one horse, to Samaden, where 
Louise went into the hotel to see Mme. d'Usedom, who was lately 
upset with her carriage off the road, as there is no barrier, and hurt 
herself severely. We saw her brother likewise. 

1 have sent you a nosegay of Edelweiss and other Alp flowers. 1 
hope it won't arrive quite dead. You must fancy them alive, and, 
if they could speak, they would tell you how much 1 love you, and 
how constantly 1 think of you, and of my dear, dear home! 

St. Moritz: August 11. 
. . . All the Orleans left this place suddenly yesterday, as there 
are three cases of scarlatina in the house. We consulted the doctor 
immediately, whether he thought it safe for Louis to remain, he 
never having had it, and he said " Perfectly, as we are at the other 
end of the house, and out nearly all day." 

Victor and Lolo [Count and Countess Gleichen] are here, and we 
went out drawing together yesterday; but it is too difficult here. _ I 
think constantly how much you would admire this place: it is in- 
deed exquisitely beautiful — much the finest scenery 1 have ever seen. 
It is very "^ild, and reminds me in parts of dear Scotland. 

You say that our home in England is dull now for those who like 
to amuse themselves. It is never dull, darling Mamma, when one 
can be with you, for 1 have indeed never met a more agreeable 
charming companion. Time always fiies by, when one is with you. 
1 hope it is not impertinent my saying so. 

St. Moritz : August 13. 
... I knew you would feel for me at the loss of my pooi' 
Willem. Of course one must feel that sort of loss more than that of 
many a relation, if one knew the latter but little. I said to Louis at 



ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 97 

the lime, that Willem's death distressed me more than would that 
ot several relations who were not intimate with me. . . , 

Yesterday we and the Gleichens went to the Rosegg Glacier, and 
to get there had to go from Pontresina in little Bergwagen, which 
are strong miniature Leiterioagen without springs, and we went over 
a horrid path with quantities of stones, so the shaking was beyond 
description. 

Victor and Lolo go mostly with us, and we always dine together. 

1 talve three glasses beginning at seven in the morning, and a bath 
at eight. One lies in a wooden thing, covered over up to one's chin 
with boards, and remains so twenty minutes. 

We lunch at twelve, and dine at half -past six, and go to bed early. 
We are out nearly all day long. It is very warm, the sun scorching ; 
mj' face is quite red-brown, in spite of veils and parasols. 1 feel 
already very much better, and Louis says my face is quite fat. I 
wish we could remain longer than the end of the month, but Louis 
must be home. 

1 hope you notice the pains I take with my writing, for you com- 
plained of it at Osborne — I fear, justly — and 1 am trying to improve 
it again. 

St. Moritz : August 16. 
Yesterday we made a beautiful expedition, which it may amuse 
you to hear of, as in an exaggerated waj'^ it reminded nie of our nice 
Scotch ones. The evening before, we left with Victor and Lolo 
(without servants) about eight o'clocli for Pontresina. The country 
looked more beautiful than ever in the brightest moonligiit. We 
found two very small but clean rooms in an hotel outside the 
village. 

The next morning we got up at half past four, dressed, and break- 
fasted, then got on four horses with most uncomfortable saddles, 
with our guide, Adam Engler, an amusing man, most active and 
helpful. We saw the sun rising over the snow-covered mountains, 
and the valleys gradually coming out clearer. 

We were to ascend the Piz Languard, a mountain 1,200 feet high. 
We rode for two hours by a worse and much steeper road than up 
the Glassalt, then walked over rocks, sand, and slippery grass, so 
steep that one could not look up to see where one was going to, quite 
precipitous on each side, leaving snow and glacier below us. The 
last bit has a sort of immensely high steps hewn in the rock. After 
an hour and a half's hard labor we reached the summit, which is 
rocky and small — enormous precipices all round. Poor Lolo was 
giddy for some time, which was very unpleasant. The view from 
the top is most extensive. The Italian, Swiss, and Tja-olese Alps 
are all to be seen, but the view was not very clear. We rested and 
ate something, and drank some Lochnagar whisky. The sun was 
getting intense. We commenced our descent at eleven o'clock, and 
had to walk the whole way back, for one can!t ride down. We did 
not reach Pontresina till nearly four, as we had to rest several times, 
our limbs ached so, for there is no level ground the whole way, and 
the stones slip, and it was very hot. 1 had quite sore feet with 
blisters all over, so that the last hours were really agonizing. But it 
is a thing to have done, and the view amply repaid one, though one 
does not feel tempted to do it a second time. I feel very well, ex- 

4 



98 ALICE, GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

pepting my face (which is still burning and quite red), and my un- 
fortunate feet. 
Poor Christa wiote to me yesterday, and says:— 

" 1 must also tell your Royal Highness that 1 have received a let- 
ter in her own hand froai Her Majesty the Queen. 1 cannot express 
how deeply this has moved me and filled me with gratitude. God 
bless the Queen for her rare human love; for surely there is no one, 
who in such a position as hers has preserved a heart liiie hers, so 
full of kindness and sympathy for others. ' '* 

Dear sweet Mamma, your kind and sisterly words have been 
balsam to many a wounded heart, and many are the blessings that 
have been craved for you from above by hearts filled with thankful- 
ness for your true sympathy. 

St. Moritz : August 21. 

. . . Now I will tell you of our expedition. Louis and 1, Victor 
and Lolo, and a guide with each a small bag, left this early on the 
morning of the 17th (dear Grandmamma's birthday) in a carriage 
for Pontresina; from thence, in two of those shaky Bergioagen, over 
■ part of the Bernina Pass, past the magnificent Morteratsch Glacier, 
■which we saw pcrfeclly. The euide told us he had been there with 
Professor TyHclall, and that the latter had observed, that the glacier 
advanced a foot a day in the warm weather, and old people recol- 
lect it having been a mile higher up. We soon left the high-road, 
and all vegetation, save grass, for a bad path into the Val da Fain. 
The heat was again intense. We lunched and rested, and then took 
the horses out of the caits for us ladies to ride. The scenery was 
wild and severe, until we began again to descend, and came down 
upon the lovely Livigno Valley, which is Italian, and covered with 
brown chalets. We reached the village of Livigno, with only 
wooden huts, by six o'clock, and turned into a fugny little dark inn, 
in w^hich we four found one small but clean room for us — most 
primitive. As the inhabitants speak a sort of Italian, we had the 
greatest ditticulty to make ourselves understood. Victor cooked 
part of the dinner, and it was quite good. 

We all slept — 1 resting on a bed, the other thi'ee on the floor — in 
this little room, with the small window wide open. 

The next morning we left at nine, and drove on no road in such 
a small carriage — of course, no springs — our husbands at first get- 
ting a lift on the horses, without saddles; then on foot up a steep 
•and dangerous ascent. Splendid weather, but too hot. We went 
over the Pass of the Stretta: a more ditficult and rough ground 1 
never crossed in my life, but splendid scenery. We came on a view 
which was glorious — such enormous snow-coveied mountains and 
glaciers, with the green valleys deep below looking on Italy and the 
Tyrol. 

We reached Bormlo by seven, anfl took up our residence at a bath- 
ing-place, quite magnificently situated, very high up — also Italian. 
Tiie next morning we started early in carriages, and went over the 
Stelvio Pass. There, nearly at the risk of my neck, 1 picked for the 

* We give this extract in a translation, instead of the original German. 



ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 99 

first time some Edelweiss, which I am very proud of, as it is always 
difficult and rare to get. 

"We got down to St. Maria, which is at the uppor end of the Mlins- 
terllial ami belongs to Switzerland. In the afternoon, dreadfully 
hot, I was very thirsty and drank off a glass of milk; but how it 
tasted! It was goat's milk; thi- people keep the cow's milk tor but- 
ter and cheese. We remained the night there, and left the next 
morning for here, by Zernetz and Of en. To get trom one valley into 
another,* one has alwa3's to ascend and descend enormous heights, 
and always by narrow paths at the edge of precipices. We enjoyed 
our tour immensely, and got on perfectly without servants. Pack- 
ing up my things, though, every morning was a great trouble, and 
the bag would usually not shut at first. The trees growing here are 
splendid larches and arven*; the latter grow only in these very high 
regions and in Siberia. Victof and his wife are most amiable and 
pleasant traveling-companions and pleased with everything; not 
minding to rough it, which we had to do, 

SeWoss Mainau : August 30. 
. . . We left St. Moritz at seven, and reached Chur at seven in 
the eveuins-. The next day we came on here to Louise of Baden. 
Fritz is at Carlsruhe. This place is veiy lovelj'', though, alasl the 
fine mountains are gone, which one always misses so much. 

I thought of you more than 1 can say on the dear 26tli, and 1 felt 
low and sad all day. Dear Papa! Time has not jet accustomed us 
to see each anniversary come roimd again, and he still remain away. 
It is so inexpressibly hard for you, and you must feel such intense 
longing for the dear past. There remains a future that is the only 
cunsolation. 

To-day we went with Louise by carriage, and then across part of 
the lake to the property of tlie Emperor Napoleon, Arenenberg, which 
the Empress gave him eight years, ago, and which was his home 
with his mother, and where she died. Every picture and bit of 
furniture is replaced as it was when the Emperor lived there, and he 
■was there himself and replaced everything. It is quite a page m 
history to see all the things that surrounded the Emperor in the days 
of his misfortune. 

Darmstadt: Septembers. 
... I spent three days and two nights with dear Alix at Weis- 
baden, and I find her leg decidedly better. ... It is a little less hot 
today, but much hotter even now than we ever have it in England. 
Slallmeister Meyerf came to see us yesterday, and we took him out 
riding, which made him quite happy. Au}^ one who reminds me 
of the good old times bei'ore the 14th of December does me good; 
it is a pleasure to speak about those past so happy days! When they 
came to a close, 1 lost the greater part of my joyousness, which, 
though I am so happy, has never returned. A. certain melancholy 
and sadness sometimes overcomes me, which 1 can't shake off; then 

* A kind of dwarf tree— half pine, half juniper— which prrows in the higrhest 
repions of the Alps, and supplies most of the soft wood used by the Swiss 
wood-carvers. 

t Riding-master to the Prince Consort and the Queen from 1840 to 1871. 



100 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

I have HeimweJi after adored Pppa to sucli an extent that tears are 
my only relief. 

Darmstadt : September 20. 
. . . The King of Prussia's visit went oflE very vs^ell here, and 
both high personages seemed pleased to have got over the meeting. 
The King came most kindly to see us, and went over all our rooms, 
which seemed to amuse him. . . . Yesterday evening Sache and 
Minnie* arrived and we intend going over to see them all_ to-mor- 
row. 

Louis will retain the command, but, accoi'ding to the King's ad- 
vice, has demanded a Prussian General Stabschef [Chief of the Staff], 
which will be a great assistance to him. 

At the sale of the Homburg things I bought a lovely miniature of 
dear Grandmamma in a black velve^ gown, with a red shawl over 
her shoulder — shortly after her marriage, I think. 

Darmstadt : October 3. 

Yesterday evening I returned" from Wiesbaden, leaving Alix 
well, but having caught a bad cold myself. The children have 
equally heavy ones. 

Darmstadt : October 8. 

Many thanks for your letter just received, and for the review of 
dear Papa's Life, which is excellent, and which 1 sent on to Aunt 
JFeodore, as you desired. I have been laid up for a week with influ- 
enza, and am only about again sinc;p yesterday, thougii not out of 
the house. 1 am quite weak from it. The whole house is laid up 
with bad colds, and Baby can't shake hers oft at all. The cough is 
so tiring, and she. whoops whenever she coughs. Poor Jager, who 
is, alas! we fear, consumptive, broke a blood-vessel two days ago, 
and is dangerously ill, to the great grief of all in the house. He is 
our best servant, and so devoted; he never would take care of him- 
self, as he could not bear letting any one but himself attend on Louis, 
We have just got a Diahonissin [Deaconess] to nurse him; on ac- 
count of his great weakness he can't be left alone one instant. 

Sir William, Lady and Charlotte Knollys have been on a visit to 
us; also Lady Geraldine Somerset for two nights. They are all in- 
terested to see our house. 

Uncle George has made me a present of one of the horses the 
Sultan sent him. 

Darmstadt : October 10. 

I can't find words to say how sorry I am that dear sweet Arthur 
should have the small-pox! and that you should have this great 
anxiety and worry. God grant that the dear boy may get well over 
it, and that his dear handsome face be not marked! Where' in tlie 
world could he have caught it? The Major kindly telegraphs daily, 
and you can fancy, far away, how anxious one is. 1 shall be very 
anxious to get a letter with accounts, for I think constantly of him, 
and of you. My parents-in-law wish me to tell you how they share 
your anxiety, and how they wish soon to hear of dear Arthur's con- 
valescence; of course my Louis likewise, for he shares all my feel- 

* The Cesarewitch and Cesai-ewna. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 101 

ings, being a real brother toward my Geschtmster [brothers and sis- 
ters]. 

We both paid the King of Prussia our respects at Frankfort this 
morning, principal!)'' to tell him that Bertie had been so grieved at 
the ill success of his intended visit, as the Queen begged us to do. 

I am better to-day, but Ella and Ir^ne can't snakeofi: their colds, 
and poor Ella is altogether unwell. Victoria is all right. 

We are going on the 18th to Baden for Fritz's birthday. 

Darmstadt : October 14. 
How glad 1 am to see by your letter that darling Arthur is going 
on so very well. One can't be too thankful; and it is a good thing 
over, and will spare one's bein.a; anxious about him on other occasions. 

Bertie and Alix have been here since Saturday afternoon, and 
leave to-moi'row. They go straight to Antwerp, and Bertie is going 
back to Brussels to see the cousins. 

The visit of the Kiug went off very well, and Alix was pleased 
with the kindness and civility of the King. 1 hear that the meeting 
was satisfactory to both parties, which I am heartily glad of. Bear- 
ing ill will is aWays a mistake, besides its not being right. 

Dear Alix walked up our staircase with tAvo sticks, of course very 
slowly, but she is improving wonderfully, though her knee is quite 
stiff. 

Poor Jager is a little better, and the momentary danger is past, 
though 1 fear he cannot ultimately recover. How hard for poor 
Katrinchen ! There is much sorrow in the world, and how often 
such a shaie falls to the best and gentlest! 1 of course go to see 
him daily, but it always goes to my very heart to see that attached 
and faithful creature dying slowly awaj^ How is Brown's sister? 

We hope that Countess Blucher will return here with Vicky and 
me from Baden for a few days, as it is an age since Vicky has seen 
her. 

Dear Alix is writing in my room at this moment, and is so dear 
and sweet. She is a most lovable creature. 

Darmstadt : October 23. . 

1 have had the pleasure of having Augusta and the Dean [Stanley] 
here since yesterday, but they leave again this morning. 

The King of Prussia is here to-day. and there is u. large dinner for 
him in the Schloss, and he is kind enough to come and see me after- 
ward. 

The accounts of poor dear AuntFeodore are so sad, and I hear she 
does not look well, and is so low about her eyes and being unable to 
see you again after so long a separation. She seems alone and lonely, 
with old age and sickness coming over her. If 1 had been well, I 
should have gone to see her. 1 am much better these last days. I 
can breathe much better, but the dreadfully swelled ankles and 
wrists remain as bad as before, and cause a great discomfort and 
even pain. 1 never had this before. 

Schweinsberg : October 34. 

Dear Vicky and Fritz left us yesterday morning. It is such a 
pleasure to rne to think that they, like Bertie and Alix, know my 
house, and that they have lodged under our roof. When -will you, 



102 ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

darling Mamma? It ever again you go abroad and wish to rest on 
your way, all in the world we have is at your disposal. How happy 
that would make ns! 

We ourselves left at four yesterday afternoon, remaining the night 
at Marburg, and leaving at a quarter to five in the morning, so that 
Louis could reach Alsfeld in time to join the shooting-party. We 
parted at Kirchhain, and I came here with Christa lo her mother's 
house — so sad and enanged since three years ago. It is most kind 
of them to have taken me up here, and the bracing air will do me 
good. They knov? that 1 can understand what a house of mourning 
is, and that I don't want to amuse myself. 

Ella cried on parting with us yesterday, and wanted lo get into 
the train with us. 

Victoria is going to have a little lesson every other day, when I go 
back, from Mr. Geyer, who taught poor Willem, and who teaches 
little girls particularly well. She must begin in my room, as it is 
better not to have lessons in the nursery, I think. Vicky and 1 spoke 
much together about education and taking a governess. I thought 
to wait a year (for financial reasons), and I think it time enough 
then — do not you? 

Darmstadt : October 26. 

. . . We arrived late at Baden, and Vicky and Fritz, who had 
had two long days' journey, were very tired; but we had to go to 
dress at once, to go to a soiree at Madame Viardot's, which lasted till . 
midnight, and at which the King and Queen were present. Her 
daughters and scholars sang a little operetta she had composed, 
which was very pretty. 

1 hope the inauguration of the statue went off as well as the 
weather would permit. 

November 15. 
. . . It is so good and wholesome not always to be one's own 
master, and to have to suit one's self to the wish of others, and, above 

all, to that of one's mother and sovereign. feels it as such, and 

often told me so, regretting how seldom such was the case. 

The Moriers are often with us, and we value them much; they are 
such pleasant companions, and such excellent, clever people. 

Darmstadt: December 6, 1867. 
. . . The visit to Claremont must have been quite peculiar for 
you; and 1 can fancy it bringing back to your mind the recollec- 
tions of your childhood. lu spring it must be a lovely place, and, 
wilh gayer papers on the walls, and a little modern ' comfort, the 
house must likewise be very pleasant. Ella, who was breakfasting 
with me just now, saw me dip my Bretzel in my coffee, and said: 
" Oh, Mamma, jrou must not! Do you allow yourself to do that?" 
because I don't allow her to do it. She is too funny, and hj no 
means quite easy to manage — a great contrast to Victoria, who is a 
very tractable child. Ella has a wonderful talent for sewing, and, 
when she keeps quiet a little while, sews quite alone and without 
mistakes. She is making soraethino; for you for Christmas, which 
she is quite excited about. Victoria's lillle afternoon lesson answers 
admirably, and is the happiest time of the day for her. She can 
read words already. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 103 

We have snow and ice, and no sunshine since some lime, and it is 
not inviting to take the dull walks in the town. But I make a rule 
to }iO out twice a day, and keep nearly the same hours as at home. 

The account of your visit to Lady Palmerslon and to her daugh- 
ter is most touching. It is so inexpressibly sad for grandmother and 
motlier, for it is unnatural for parents to survive their cliildren, and 
that makes the grief a so peculiar one, and very hard to bear. 

December 9. 
. . . During the long winter days, when Louis is away some- 
times four times in the week from six in the morning till six in the 
evening, and then when he returns from his shooting has his work 
to do, 1 feel lonely. 1 am often for several hours consecutively 
quite by myself; and for my meals and walks only a lady, as she is 
the only person in the house besides ourselves. It is during these 
hours, when one cannot always be reading or at work, that 1 should 
wish to have some one to go to, or to come to me to sit and speak 
with; but such is not the case, and it is this I regret — accustomed 
as I was to a house full of people, with brothers and sisters, and, 
above all, the chance of being near you. 1 always feel how willing- 
ly I would spend some of those hours with or near you— and the sea 
ever lies between us! When Louis is at home and free — for in the 
morning I don't see him — then I have all that this world can give 
me, fcr I am indeed never happier than at his dear side; and time 
only increases our affection, and binds us closer to each other. 
We have deep snow now and sledging the last two da3's. 

December 12 
Before going to rest, I take up my pen to write a few loving words, 
that they may reach you on the morning of the 14th. The sound of 
that date brings with it that sad and dreary lecoUection which, for 
you, my poor dear Mamma, and for us, time cannot alter. As long 
as our lives last, this time of year must fill us with saa and earnest 
feelings, and revive the pain of that bitter parting: 

I ought not to dwell on those hours now, for it is wrong to open 
those wounds afresh, which God in His mercy finds little waj'S and 
means to heal and soo(he the pain of. 

Dear darling Papa is, and ever will be, immortal. The good he 
has done; the great ideas he has promulgated in the world; the 
noble and unselfish example he has given, will live on, as I am sure 
he must ever do, as one of the best, purest, most Godlike men that 
have come down into this world. His example will, and does, stimu- 
late others to higher and purer aims; and I am convinced that darling 
Papa did not live in vain. His great mission was done; and what 
has remained undone he has j^laced in your dear hands, who will 
know, best how to achieve his great works oi love and justice. 1 
shall think much, ver}' much, of you on the 14th. and you will be 
more in my prayers than ever. Think also a little of your most 
devoted child! 

Darmstadt : Christmas Day. 
We missed poor Willem so much in arranging all the things; and 
poor Jager's illness was also SMd. AVe gave him a tree in his room. 
He looks like a shadow, and his voice is quite hoarse. 



104 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

To two hospitals, the military and the town one, I took presents 
yesterday, and saw many a scene of suflering and grief. My chil- 
dren are going to give a cei tain numbei of poor children a Bescheer- 
ung on New Year's Day. It is so good to teach them eai'ly to be 
generous and kind to the poor. They even wish to give some of 
their own things, and such as are not broken. 

Your many generous presents will find their use at once, and the 
Christmas pie, &c., be shared by all the family. The remembrances 
of those bright happy Christmases at Windsor are constantly before 
me. None will ever be again what those were, without you. dear 
Papa, and dear kind Grandmamma. 

Darmstadt : December 27. 
... 1 am sure you will have felt under many a circumstance in 
life, that if any momentary feeling was upon you, and you were 
writing to some one near and dear, it did you good to put down 
those feelings on paper, and that, even in the act of doing so, when 
the words were barely written, the feeling had begun to die away, 
and the intercourse had done you good. 



Although the winter season brought many social duties with it, 
the Princess's active personal attention to all those good works and 
institutions which she had called into existence never flagged. N"o 
subject of interest or importance escaped her, and her time was 
always fully occupied. In April she met the Crown Prince at Gotha, 
where Prince Louis also came, on his return from Munich, to fetch 
her. She spent the months ot June and July in England with her 
three little girls, either at Osborne, Vvindsor, or in London. The 
return journey to Darmstadt was made by water as far as Mayenee. 
Tne autumn was spent at Kranichstein, in the neighborhood of which 
the maneuvers of the Hessian division took place, at some of which 
the Princess was present. 

On the 35th of November, to the great joy of the parents and the 
country, a son and heir was born — "a splendid boy." At his 
christening, on the 28th of December, he received, at the special de- 
sire of the Grand Duke, the names Ernst Ludwig — which had been 
borne by so many of the old Landgraves of Hesse. The sponsors 
were the Queen of England and the King of Prussia. 



Darmstadt : January 34. 
. . . To-night 1 am going to act with two other persons in our 
dining-room a pretty little piece called Am Klavier, but 1 fear 1 shall 
be very nervous, and consequently act badly, which would be too 
tiresome. 
1 have never tried to act in anything since BothkdppcMn. 

February 1. 

What a fright the news of dear Leopold's dangerous attack has 
given us! Mr. Sahl's letter to Becker arrived yesterday afternoon 
containing the bad news, and he spoke of so little hope, that 1 was 



ALICE, GEAJTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 105 

so upset and so dreadfully distressed for the dear darling, for you, 
poor Mamma, and for us all, that 1 am quite unwell still to-da3^ 

When your telegram came to-daj'', and Louise's letter, I was so 
relieved and only pray and hope that the improvement may continue. 
May God spare that young bright and gifted life, to be a comfort 
and support to you for many a ^ear to come! 

Had 1 only had a telegram! for, the letter being two days old, until 
your telegram came I passed six such agonizing hours ! Away from 
home, every news of illness or sorrow there is so difficult to bear — 
when one can share all the anxiety and trouble only in tliouglit. 

The day passes so slowly without news, and I am always looking 
toward the door to see if a telegram is coming. Please let me hear 
regularly till he is quite safe; 1 do love the dear boy, as 1 do all my 
brothers and sisters, so tenderl}'! 

How J wish you had been spared this new anxiety ! Those two 
days must have been dreadful! 

Darling Mamma, how I wish 1 were with you! God grant that in 
future you may send us only good news. 

Louis and my parents- in-law send their respectful love and the 
expression of their warmest sympathy, in which the other members 
of the family join. 

February 3. 
How glad and truly thankful I am, that the Almighty has saved 
our darling Leopold and spared him to you and to us all! For the 
second or even third time that life has been given again, when all 
feared that it must leave us! A mother's heart must feel this so 
much more than any other one's, and clear Leopold, through having 
caused you all his life so much anxiety, must be inexpressibly dear 
to you, and such an object to watch over and take care of. Indeed 
from the depth of my heart 1 thank God with you for having so 
mercifully spared clear Leo, and watched over him when death 
seemed so near! 

You will feel deeply now the great joy of seeing a convalescence 
after the great danger, and I know, through a thousand little things, 
how your loving and considerate heart will find pleasure and conso- 
lation in cheering your patient. 

That for the future you must ever be so anxious is a dreadful 
trial, but it is to be hoped that Leo will yet outgrow this strange ill- 
ness. 1 am sure good Archie * takes great care of him, and by this 
time he will have gathered plenty of experience to be a good nurse. 

Baby is better, but her poor head and face are perfectly covered 
with spots, and she was in despair with the smarting and itching, 
and of course rubbed herself quite sore. Ella has it slightly since 
this morning. 

Darmstadt : February 13. 

. . . First let me wish you joy for the birth of this new grand- 
son, f born on your dear wedding-day. 1 thought of you on the 
morning of the lOlh, and meant to telegraph, but those dreadful 

* Archibald Brown, his valet, younger brother of the Queen's personal at- 
tendant. 

t Prince Waldemar of Prussia, fourth son of the Crown Prince and Princess. 
He died of diphtheria on the 27th of March, 1879. 



106 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

neuralgic pains came on before I had time to look about me, and 
really laid me prostrate for the whole day, as they lasted so very 
long. I have never felt so unwell, or suffered so much in my life, 
and this moment, sitting up in Louis' room, 1 feel more weak than 
1 ever felt on first getting up after my confinements. Quinine has 
kept me free from pain to day, and 1 hope will do &o tomorrow. 1 
have been in bed a week and "touched absolutely nothinsr all the time. 
Yesterday evening, as throughout the day, 1 had had (but much 
more slightly) a return of these agonizing attacks, which seized my 
left eye, ear, and the whole left side of my head and nose. 1 got up 
and sat in Louis' room, I could only bear it for two hours, and all 
but fainted before 1 reached my bed. If 1 can get strength, and 
have no leturn of pain, 1 hope to go out after to-morrow. 1 could 
not see the children or anyone during this week, and always had my 
eyes closed, first from pain, and then from exhaustion when the 
pain left me. I really thought 1 should go out of my mind, and you 
know I can stand a tolerable amount of pain. 

February 17. 

... I am so distressed that you remained so long without 
news. 1 was really for a whole week quite incapable of any idea 
about anything, and had mostly my eyes shut, and was constantly 
alone, as 1 could not bear anyone in the room. 

General Plonsky, the Corps Commandant from Cassel, came here 
unexpectedly, and Louis, being under his command, was so taken 
up during those days, besides an immense deal of military business, 
that I never saw him more than a few minutes in the morning; and 
during his free time in the afternoon he sat, like the best nurse in 
the world, near my bed in the darlt room, putting wet rags on my 
head and trying by every possible means to alleviate my pains. He 
was touching in the great care he took of me. Louis and fJarriet 
did all for me, and 1 could bear no one else about me. You see, 
poor Louis had no time to write, and he always thought that I should 
be well the next day and write myself. 

Darmstadt : February 24. 

To my and, 1 fear, dear Vicky's great disappointment. Dr. 
Weber won't let me go to Berlin, and wants me to go to Wiesbaden 
for a cold-water cure instead. The latter will be intensely dull, as I 
shall be there for four weeks all alone; but I believe it will be very 
beneficial, as with every year I seem to get more rheumatic, which 
at my age is of course not good. 

We shall hope to be able to come to Windsor, middle of June, as 
you desire. The exact time you will kindly let us know later. 

Darmstadt : Mai-ch 9. 
. . . Louis left yesterday morning for Munich. It is a twelve 
hours' journey. There is a procession on foot at the funeral, going 
to the church through the town, which will last about two hours, 
and then a very long ceremony in the large, cold Basilica.* 

Darmstadt: March 14. 
I send you a few lines to-day for the 16th, the anniversary of 
the first great sorrow which broke in upon your happy life. How 

* At the funeral of King Louis I. , who had died at Nice on the 29th of February. 



ALICE, GllAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 107 

well do 1 recollect how 1 accompanied yoa and deai* Papa down to 
Frogmore that niglit, our dinner in the flower-room, the dreadful 
watching in the corridor, and then the so painful end! Darling- 
Papa looiied so pale, so deeply distressed, and was so full of tender 
sympathy for yoti. He told me to go to you and comfort you, and 
was so full of love and commiseration as 1 have never seen any man 
before or after. Dear, sweet Papa! that in that same year we should 
live together through such another heartrendiny; scene again, and he 
not theie to comfort or support you, poor Mamma! 

It sometimes, even at this distance of time, seems nearly impossi- 
ble that we should have lived through such times, and yet be alive 
and resigned. 

God's mercy is indeed great; for He sends a balra to soothe and 
heal the bruised and faithful heart, and to teach one to accommodate 
one's self to one's sorrow, so as to know how to bear it! 

Darmstadt : April 2. 
. . . Louis is in a most unpleasant crisis with the Ministry and 
the Grand Duke. I don't know how it will end. 

Darmstadt: Aprils. 
Only two words to-day, as ray heart is so full of love and grat- 
itude to you who took such care of me this day five years ago, who 
heard "Victoria's fi.rst cry, and were such a comfort and help to us 
both. All these recollections make Victoria doubl)^ dear to us, and, 
as in this world one never- knows what will happen, 1 hope that you 
will always watch over our dear child, and let her be as dear to you 
as though slie had been one of us. 

We have spent the day very sadly and quietly together. Louis' 
affairs have taken such a turn that he has been obliged to tender the 
Grand Duke his resignation, as he does not consider it compatible 
with his honor to remain under existing circumstances. He has 
made a great sacrifice to his duty and honor, but doing one's duty 
brings the reward with it of a clear conscience. 

April 3. 

. . . The King of Prussia has sent General von Bonin here to 
speak seriously with the Grand Duke, and prove to him through 
papers, &c., that he has not kept his word, and that he has beeu 
very badly advised, and that Louis was quite in the right. The 
result has been that the poor Grand Duke is scandalized at the state 
of affairs, and that he really seems to have been more in the dark 
than was supposed. He gives Louis the command again, sends 
away the whole Kriegsministerium [War Department], to be re- 
organized more simply, and with other people, according to Louis' 
proposals; and so all military affairs will be in order, and Louis have 
much greater power to ctiry out all that has to be done. 

We are so pleased at all having turned out thus far well, and 
know that you will share our feelings. Louis gets more work and 
a great responsibility; but he has proved himself so capable in every 
respect, so active and hard-working, that 1 think and trust he will 
overcome all difficulties. 

1 go alone to Gotha, and Louis will follow as soon as he can, so 
as to spend my birthday there. 



108 ALICE, GllAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

1 am so distressed at dear, good Sir James [Clark's] illness. 1 
hope and trust that this precious old friend will still be spared for 
a few years at least. 

Gotha : April 35. 

... It is now eleven years since I spent my birthday with 
dear Vicky, and she has been so dear and kind, and dear Aunt and 
Uncle likewise. We spend the day quite quietly together, and the 
bad weather prevents any expeditions. 

After to-morrow we go home. 

Darmstadt: May 4. 
Accept my best thanks for your last letter written on dear Arthur's 
birthday. The playing of the band 1 am sure gave him pleasure; 
but it would be too painful for all ever to have it again on the. ter- 
race as formerly. There are certain tunes, which that Marine Band 
used to play, which, when 1 have chanced to hear them elsewhtre, 
have quite upset me, so powerful does the recollection of those so 
very happy birthdays at Osborne remain upon me! Those happy, 
happy days touch me even to tears when I think of them. What a 
joyous childhood we had, and how greatly it was enhanced by dear, 
sweet Papa, and by all your great kindness to us! 

I try to copy as much as lies in my power all these things for our 
children, that they may have an idea, when 1 speak to them of it, 
of what a happy home ours was. 

I do feel so much for dear Beatrice and the other younger ones, 
who had so much less of it than we had ! 

Darmstadt : May 11. 
For your sake I am sorry that my condition should cause you 
anxiety, for you have enough of that, God knows. But 1 am so 
well this time that 1 hope and trust all may go well, though one is 
never sure. It is this conviction which I always have, and which 
makes me serious and thoughtful, as who can know whether 
with the termination of this time my life may not also terminate? 

This is also one of the reasons why 1 long so very much to see you, 
my own precious Mamma, this summer, for 1 cling to you with a love 
and gratitude, the deplli of which 1 know I can never find words 
or means to express. After a year's absence 1 wish so intensely to 
behold your dear, sweet, loving face again, and to press mv lips on 
your dear hands. The older 1 grow the more 1 value and appreciate 
that mother's love which is unique in the world; and having, since 
darling Papa's death, only you, the love to my parents and to 
adored Papa's memory is all centered in you. 

Louis has leave from the lllh of June to the 11th of ^LUgust. 

Uncle Ernest is coming here today for the day from Frankfort, 
where he has been to a cattle-show. Uncle Adalbert is here, so 
much pleased with having seen you again, singing the praise of both 
Lenchen and Louise, which of course I joined in, as it is such a 
pleasure to hear others admire and appreciate my dear sisters. 

Darmstadt : May 14. 
I know you will be grieved to hear that we all have had the 
grief of losing good, excellent Jager.* He was, on the whole, better 

* A footman, much valued by the Prince and Princess. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OP HESSE. 109 

and was out daily, aud he went to bed as usual, wlien iu the middle 
of the night he called one of the men, and before they could come 
to his assistance he expired, having broken a blood-vessel. Poor 
Kaliinclien's despair and grief were quite heartrending, when we 
went together to see our true and valued servant for the last time. 
1 was so upset by the whole, that it was some days before I got over 
it. We made wreaths to put on his colBn, which was covered with 
flowers sent from all sides, aad we both were at the door with our 
servants when he was carried out, and tried to console the poor un- 
fortunate Braui [Bride], who remained at home. 

He was the best servant one could find; never, since he has been 
in our service, had he been found fault with by anyone. He was 
good, pious, and gentle, and very intelligent. The death of a good 
man, who has fulfilled his allotted duty in this world as a good 
Christian ought, touches one deeply, and we have really mourned 
for him as for a friend, for he was one in the true sense of the word. 
Jager rests alongside my poor Willem, in the pretty little cemetery 
here; a bit of my heart went with them. 

Fritz, on his way%aGk from Italy, spent a few hours with us, and 
told us much of his journey. He heard the strangest rumors of 
France intending to break out in sudden hostilities with Germany, 
and asked me what you thought of a probability of a war for this 
summer. 1 hope to God, that, nothing horrid of that sort will hap- 
pen! Do you think it likely, dear Mamma? 

Darmstadt ; May 19. 
My OWN DAKLiNG AND MOST PRECIOUS Mamma,— The Warmest 
and tenderest wishes that grateful children can form for a beloved 
parent we both form for you, and these lines but weakly express all 1 
would like to say. May God bless and watch over a life so precious 
ana so dear to many! It is now six years since 1 spent that dear day 
near you, but 1 hope that some time or other we shall be allowed to 
do so. Our joint present is a medal for you with our heads. We had 
it made large in oxidized silver on purpose for you. I myself have 
braided aud embroidered witn Christa's help (who begged to be 
allowed to do something for you), a trimming for a dress, which I 
hope you will like and wear! It took a deal of my time, and my 
thoughts were so much with you while 1 was doing it, that 1 quite 
regretted its completion. 

We are having a bracelet with our miniatures and the three chil- 
dren's in it made for you, but unfortunately it is not finished, so we 
shall bring it and give it to you ourselves. 

Darmstadt : May 29. 
. . , The intense heat remains the same, and becomes daily 
less endurable here in town — the result on my unfortunate person 
being a very painful rash which itches beyond all description. 1 
hope it won't increase. 

How 1 envy you at Balmoral 1 the very thought of that air makes 
me better. 

Osborne : August 6. 
I was just sitting down to write to you when Ernest came in 
with your dear letter. Thousand thanks for it! These parting 
lines wUl be such a dear companion to me on our journey, 1 can't 



110 A.LICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HES8B. 

tell you how raucli 1 felt taking leave of you this time, dear 
Mamma; it always is such a wrench to tear mj^self away from you 
and my home again. Where 1 have so, oh, so much to be thankful 
and grateful to you for, I always fear that i can never express ray 
thauks as warmly as 1 feel them, which Ido indeed from the bottom 
of my hearl. God bless you, darling Mamma, for all your love and 
kindness; and from the depth of my heart do 1 pray that nothing 
may cause you such anxiety and sorrow again as you have had to 
bear of late. ... 

When I left you at the pier the return to the empty house was so 
sad! It felt quite strange, and by no means pleasant, to be here 
without you and all the others. We lunched alone with Victoria, 
and dined in the hot dining-room with the ladies and gentlemen, 
sitting on the terrace afterward. 

It has rained all the morning, and is most oppressive. As it is so 
foggy, we have to leave at two ; but there is no wind. 1 hope the sea 
will be quite smooth. I am sure you must feel lonely and depressed 
.on this journey, poor Mamma; but the change of scene and beauti- 
ful nature enjoyed in rest and quiet must surel^ do you good. 

Kranichstein : August 10. 
. . , We left Osborne at two on Thursday in rain and wind. 
The children and 1 were dreadfully sick on bour after starting, but 
the passage got smoother later: and, though I was very wretched in 
every way, 1 was not bick again. The same sort of weather on the 
Alberta next morning, but it cleared up later. The Rhine steamer 
was verj?^ comfortable, and Dr. Minter accompanied us to Dordrecht. 
The last afternoon and night on board 1 suffered dreadfully. Since I 
arrived here, I am better, but not right yet. Had it not been for 
your great kindness in giving us the ship, 1 am sure 1 should not 
have got home right. This awful heat adds ' to my feelings of 
fatigue and discomfort. 

Kranichstein : August 11. 

1 have just received your letter from Lucerne, and hasten to 
thank you- for it. 

How glad I am that you admire the beautiful pcenerv, and that 1 
know it, and can share your admiration and enjoyment of it in 
thought with you! It is most lovely. The splendid forms, and the 
color of the lake, are two things that we don't know in dear Scot- 
land, and which are so peculiar to Swiss scenery. 

Louis is in town from eight till our two-o'clock dinner, and has a 
great deal to do. 

For your sake as for my own 1 long for a respite from this unbear- 
able heat, which is so weakening and trying. 

Kranichstein : August 16. 
. . . How satisfactory the accounts of dear good Arthur are? 
From the depth of my heart do I congratulate you on all that Col- 
onel Elphinstoue says about h's character, for with a real moral 
foundation, and a strict sense of duty, and of what is right and 
wrong, he will have a power to combat the temptations of the world 
and those within himself. I am sure that he will grow up to be a 
pride and pleasure to you, and an honor to his country. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. Ill 

Brown must have been glad to be allowed to continue wearing his 
kilt, and, as it is a national diess, it is far more natural that he 
sliould give it up nowhere. I am sure that he and Annie* mast 
admire the place. 

Kraniclisteiu: August 26. 
I have just received your dear letter, and am so pleased to hear 
that you enjoyed your excursion, and that j'ou have now seet) the 
sort of wild scenery Liuh up in the mountains, which 1 lliink so 
beautiful and graad in Switzerland. For all admirers of that siyle 
of scenerjr tUere is nothing lo be compared to Switzerland. 

Since it became cool again, I have land neuralgia in my head, and 
1 have had a dreadful sty, which had to be cut open, and made me 
quite faint and sicli for the whole day. In spite of it I went to the 
station here, wiih a thick veil on, to see the Russian relations pass 
two days ago. The Emperor looks even more altered and worn since 
last year, and is suddenly grown so old. 

Kranichstein : September 4. 
. . . How too delightful your expedilions must have been! 
I do rejoice that, throuirh the change of wentlier, yon should have 
been able to see and enjoy all that glorious scenery. WithoiU your 
good ponies and Brown, &c., you would have felt how difficult such 
asce'Jts are for common moiMals, particularly when the horses slip, 
and finally sit down. 1 am sure all this will have done j^ou good; 
seeing such totall}^ new beautiful scenery does refresh so immensely, 
and the air and exertion — both of which you seem to bear so well 
now — wili do your health good. 

Yesterday we both were two hours at Jugenheim. To-day the 
two little cousins are coming to see my children. 

Louis' business is inci easing daily, and until the 19th, maneuvers, 
inspections, &c., won't be over. He will even have to be away on 
his birthday, which is a great bore. There is a great review' for the 
Emperor on Saturday. 

September 15. 
. . . Like a foolish frightened creature as I am, I have 
worpied myself so much about this sudden talk of war and threaten- 
ing in all the French papers, saying that October, November, or 
thereabouts would be a good time to begin. Do tell me, if you 
think there is the least reasonable apprehension for anything of that 
sort this year I have such confidence in your opinion, andyou cau 
imagine how in my present condiiion 1 must tremble before a recur- 
rence of all 1 went through in 1866! 

1 am so grieved that you should have been so unwell on the jour- 
ney borne. Dear beautiful Scotland •will do you good. 1 envy your 
going there, and wish 1 could be with you, for 1 am so fond of it. 
Remember me to all the good people. 

Darmstadt: October 28. 
. . . The Queen of Prussia is coming to lunch with us on 
Saturday on her wa}^ to Cot)lenz. 

1 have a cold these last days, and Victoria is still confined to the 
house with her swelled neck. She had quite lost her appetite, and 

* Mrs. McDonald, the Queen's first wardrobe-maid. 



112 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

I tried some porridge for Jier, which she enjoys, and I hope it will 
fatten her up a little, for she is so thin and pale. Would you please 
order a small barrel of oatmeal to be sent to me? Dr. Weber thinks 
it would be very good for Victoria, and one cannot get it here. 

Darmstadt : November 20. 

It is with the greatest interest that I read about the Mauso- 
leum,* as 1 was very anxious to know whether all would be'linished. 
Havmg been present before at all the important steps in the progress 
of this undertaking, 1 feel very sorry to be absent at the last, and 1 
shall be very impatient to see it all again. 

Winter has quite set in now here, and when there is no wind the 
cold is very pleasant. 

Darmstadt : December 4. 

Thousand thanks for all your dear kind wishes, for your first 
letter to me, for the one to Louis, and finally for the eatables 1 1 
can't tell you how touched, how pleased we both are at the kind in- 
terest all at home have shown us on this occasion. It has really 
enhanced our pleasure at the birth of our little son, to receive so 
many marks of sympathy and attachment from those in my dear 
native home, and in my present one. My heart is indeed overflow- 
ing with gratitude for all God's blessings. 

"The time itself was very severe, but my recovery is up to now the 
best I have ever made, and I feel comparatively strong and well. 

The girls are delighted with their brother, though Victoria was 
sorry it was not a sister. Darling Louis was too overcome and 
taken up with me at first to be half pleased enough. Baby is to be 
called, by Louis' Uncle Louis' wish, Ernst Ludioig, after a fonner 
Landgrave ;f then we would like you to give the name of Albert; 
Charles, after my father-in-law; and William, after the King of 
Prussia, whom we mean to ask to be godfather. The christening is 
most likely to be on the 28th or thereabout. 

1 am on my sofa in my sitting-room with all your dear photos, 
&c. , around me, and your pretty quilt over me. 

December 12. 
. . . Every new event in my life renews the grief for dear 
Papa's loss, and the deep regret that he was not here to know of all, 
to ask advice from, to share joy and grief with, for he was such a 
tender father, and would have been such a loving grandfather. 

You, darling Mamma, fill his place with your own, and may God's 
support never leave you and ever enable you to continue fulfilling 
the many duties toward State and family! The love of your chil- 
dren and people encircles you. 

Darmstadt : December 18. 
. . . The presents you intend giving Baby will delight us, 
and in later years I can tell him all about his Grandpapa, and how 1 
wish and pray he may turn out in any way like him, and try and 
aim to become so. 

1 think it would be best, perhaps, if you asked my mother-in-law 
to represent you and hold Baby. 1 think it would pain her, should 

* The Royal Mausoleum at Frogmore. 
i- Who died on the 8th of November, 18^5. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 113 

any oue else do it, and 1 will ask lier in j'our name, if you will 
kindly telegraph to me j'^our approval. 

I am Sony Arthur cannot come, it would have given us such 
pleasure had it been possible. 

The greater part of Baby's monthly gowns have been put away, 
as from the beginning they were too small. He is so very big. 

Christmas Day. 
. . . Louis thanks you thousand times, as we do for the 
charming presents for the children. They showed them to everyone, 
shouting, " This is from my dear English Grandmamma;" and Ella, 
who is always sentimental, added; " She is so very good, my Grand- 
mamma. " Irdne could not be parted from the doll you gave her, 
nor Victoria from hers. Baby was brought down, and was wide 
awake the whole time, looking about with his little bright eyes like a 
much older child. 

We spent a very happy Christmas eve, surrounded by the dear 
children and our kind relations. 

Darmstadt : December 29. 
. . . Prince Hohenzoilern with three gentlemen was sent by 
the King, and the former dined with us after the ceremony. All 
went off so well, and Biby, who is in every way like a child of two 
months, looked about him quite wisely, and was much admired by 
all who saw him. 

I am so sorry that you have never seen my babics since Victoria, 
for I know you would admire them, they look so mottled and 
healthy. Ty^eather permitting. Baby is to be photographed to-mor- 
row. 



1869. 



The winter passed quickly amidst many occupations. 

In May the Prince and Princess, with their children, went on a 
visit to the Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia at Potsdam, where 
they spent four happy weeks. Whilst they were there, the Viceroy 
of Egypt paid a visit to Berlin Later in the summer they went to 
Silesia, and spent some time at Fischbach, a property belonging to 
Princess Charles of Hesse, whose sister, the Queen of Bavaria, and 
brother, Prince Adalbert of Prussia, joined them there. Dur- 
ing their stay, the Prince and Princess' made excursions into the 
neighboring mountains, and ascended the Schneekoppe; and the 
Prince and his brothers visited the battletield of Konigsgriitz. On 
the way back to Darmstadt they visited Dresden, to see the King and 
Queen of Saxony at their country seat, Pillnitz, an hour's drive from 
Dresden. 

In August, the King of Prussia for the first time personally in- 
spected the Hessian troops. The Prince commanded the troops at 
the maneuvers in L'pper Hesse, at the conclusion of which they 
paraded before the King of Prussia at Bergen. 

Some weeks later the Prince and Priticess of Wales and their 
family paid Prince and Princess I^ouis a visit at Kranichstein. The 
opening of the Idiot Asylum built by the Princess took place on the 



114 ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSK. 

15th of October in her presence and that of the Prince. It had been 
arranged that Prince Louis should accompany the Crown Prince of 
Prussia on his journey to the East, on the occasion of the opening 
of the Suez Canal. He started on the 9th of October for Venice. 
The two Princes visited Corfu, Athens, and Constantinople, and 
were received with every possible honor in the capitals of Greece 
and Turkej''. They went on to Jafla, and thence to JeiU'^alem, Heb- 
ron, Damascus, and Baalbec, and finally, on the 15th of November, 
they arrived at Port Said, where they met a large number of other 
Princes. A -journey up the Nile as far as the first and second cata- 
racts brought their travels to an end. They returjied home by way 
of Naples, and through Italy. 

During the absence of the two Princes, the Crown Princess of 
Prussia and Princess Alice, with her little son, went to Cannes. 
Whilst there, the Princess devoted herself entirely to the care of her 
child. Being together with her sister, and in that sunny country, 
made up somewhat for the long separation from her husband. The 
Princes joined the two Princesses at Cannes shortly before Christ- 
mas. The next year saw them all at home again. 



Darmstadt ; January 8. 
. . . Dear charming Lady Frances [Baillie] is on a visit with 
us, and 1 enjoy having her so much. We talk of old times at Frog- 
more, and so many pleasant recollections. 

1 am glad that you like Baby's photograph, though it does not do 
him justice. He is a prettj^ baby, on the whole, and has a beautiful 
skin, very large ej^es, and pretty mouth and chin; but his nose is not 
very pretty, as it is so short at present. He is a dear good child, 
and, though immensely lively, does not give much trouble. He is 
a great source of happiness to us, and 1 trust will continue so. 

Darmstadt : Januai-y 13. 
... Is not the death of Leopold's son shocking?* Such suf- 
ering, such a struggle for months between life and death; and 
for the poor parents to have in the end to relinquish their child, their 
only son ! 1 think it heartrending. May the Almighty continue to 
support them even now, as he did these many months! 1 cannot 
say how much and truly 1 feel for them both. This world is full of 
trials, and some seem to be called upon to suffer and give up so 
much. Faith and resignation alone can save those hearts from 
breaking, when the Durden must be so heavy. 

A few days ago at two o'clock we had another shock [ot earth- 
quake], and it seemed as if the house rocked; at the same time the 
unearthly noise. I think it uncommonly unpleasant, particularly 

this repetition. 

January 30. 

Our thoughts and prayers are so much with you and dear Leo- 
pold on this day [his Confirmation]. May the Almighty bless and 
protect that precious boy, and give him health and strength to con- 
tinue a life so well begun and so full of promise! 

* The only son and heir of the King of the Belgians, 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 115 

It seems to me quite incredible, the eighth of us should already 
be old enough to take this step in life, and to have his childhood in 
fact behind "liim. Dear Papa's blessing surely rests on him, and his 
spirit is near you as you stand there alone by the side of his child, 
about whom he always was so anxious. 

February 5. 

. . . Beloved Papa's cast arrived a' few days ago, and stands 
in my bedroom. 1 think it very beautiful, and thank you so 
warmly for having sent it me. 

Poor Orchard, whose leg is very painful and swelled, is to go to 
bed for a week for entire rest of the limb. You can imagine how 
inconvenient this is, as we have only Eaima and Kathrinchon for 
the others and Baby. You will be amused when 1 tell you, that 
old Ameluug is coming to sleep with baby, a.nd take charge of him; 
but she is too old and out of practice to be able to wash and dress 
him morning and evening besides, so 1 do that, and it is of course a 
great assistance to all, my being able to do it, and I don't mind the 
trouble. Of a morning, as Louis is usually out riding or at his 
office, I take Victoria and Ella out, who are very good little girls 
and very amusing. 

Darmstadt : March 8. 

. . , We shall go to Potsdam the first week in Maj^, and from 
there go for a weeli or ten days to Fischbach. Mj' mother in-law, 
Tante Mariechen, and Uncle Adalbert are all going to spend my 
mother-in-law's birthday there. 

The Moriers are going to England in the first days of April, and 
I hope that you will see them. We see a good cleal of them, and 
like them both much. He is wonderfully clever and learned, and 
takes interest in everything; and she is very agreeable, and a most 
satisfied, amiable disposition — always contented and amused. 

March 19. 
1 thought of you so much on the 16th. From that day dated 
the commencement of so much grief and sorrow; yet in those daj^s 
you had one, darling Mamma, whose first and deepest thought was 
to comfort and help you, and 1 saw and understood only then lioio 
he watched over you, and how and everywhere he sought to ward 
off all that was painful and strange from you, and took all that pain 
alone for himself, for your sake! I see his dear face— so pale, and 
so full of tears, when he led me to you early that morning after all 
was over, and said, " Comfort Mamma," as if those words were a 
Torhedeutung [presage] of what was to come. In those days, 1 
think he knew how deep my love was for you, .and that, as long as 
I was left in my home, my first and onlv thought should be you and 
you alone! Tliis I held as my holiest and dearest duty, until 1 had 
to leave you, my beloved Mother, to form a home and family for 
myself, and new ties which were to take up much of my heart and 
strength. 
But that bond of love, though 1 can no more be near you, is as 

Btrong as ever. 

Darmstadt : March 23. 

. . . Yesterday it was very warm, and to-day it snows; the 
weather continues so changeable and many people are ill. Ella has 



116 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

again had oue of her bad attacks in her throat, but, thank God, it 
passed away very soon. Two nights ago she could not speak— bare- 
ly breathe — and was so uncomfortable, poor child. It makes one so 
anxious each time; but I hope she will outgrow it, when she is six 
or seven years old. 

Victoria is already now composing a letter for your birthday. 1 
won't have her helped, because I should like youtoseehei own 
ideas and style— it is much more amusing. 

March 26. 
. . . We had such an unexpected pleasure the other day in the 
visit of good General Seymour, and I was so pleased to see some one 
who had seen you lately, and who could give me news of my home. 
He had not been here since he came with us after our marriage, and 
was of course interested in seeing everything. 

April 2. 
, . . The constant anxiety ahout the children is dreadful ; and 
it is not physical ill one dreads for them, it is moral: the responsi- 
bility for these little lent souls is great, and, indeed, none can take 
it lightly who feel how great and important a parent's duty is. 

Darmstadt : April 5 
. . . Thousand thanks for your dear letter, and for all the tender 
wishes for our dear child's birthday! The child born under your 
roof and your care is of course your particular one, and later, if you 
wish to keep her at any time when we have been paying you a visit, 
we shall gladly leave her. 

Victoria is so delighted with what you sent her, and sends her very 
warmest, thanks and her tenderest love. She is in great beauty just 
at present,. as she is grown stouter; and 1 look with pleasure on 
those two girls when they go out together. They possess, indeed, 
all we could wish, and are full of promise. May the Almighty 
protect them and give them a long life, to be of use and a joy to 
their fellow -creatures! 

April 16. 

, . . Kain and wind have at length cooled the air, for this heat 
without any shade was too unpleasant. Louis left at five this morn- 
ing to inspect the garrison at Friedberg and Giessen, and then to go 
to Alsfeld to shoot Auerhahne [capercailzies]. He will return on 
the 21st or 82nd probably. 

"W e shall indeed be so pleased, if later you wish to have any of the 
granddaughters with you, to comply with any such wish, for I often 
think so sadly for your dear sake, how lonely it must be when one 
child after another grows up and leaves-home; and even if they re- 
main, to have no children in the house is most dreary. Surely you 
can never lack to have some from amongst the many grandchildren; 
and there are none of us, who would not gladly have our children 
live under the same roof where we passed such a happy childhood, 
with such a loving Grandmamma to take care of them. 

April 35. 

. . . May 1 only know the way to give my children as much 
pleasure and happiness as you have ever known to give me! 

The dinner of family and suite Js here in the house to-day — or 
rather 1 should call it a luncheon, as it is at two o'clock. 



ALICE, GRAJSTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. Ill' 

The Irish Church question, I quite feel with you, will neither be 
solved nor settled in this way; and instead of doing something 
which would bring the Catholics more under the authority of the 
State, they will, 1 fear, be the more powerful. It seems to me that 
one injustice (with regard to the Protestants) is to be put in the place 
of a former one, instead of doing justice to both, which would not 
have been an impossibility through some well-considered settlement 
and giving in on both sides. Such a diangement requires so much 
thought and wisdom, and, above all, impartiality. 

May 3. 
. . . My children are, on the whole, very well behaved and obe- 
dient, and, save by fits and starts, which don't last long, very man- 
ageable. 1 try to be very just and consistent in all things toward 
them, but it is sometimes a great trial of patience, I own. They are 
so forward, clever, and spirited, that the least spoiling would do 
them great harm. 

How glad 1 am that the dear Countess [Blllcher] is with you 
again; she is the pleasantest companion possible, and! so dear and 
loving, and she is devoted to you and dear Papa's memory as never 
anyone was. 

Potsdam : May 25. 
How much we thought of you yesterday, 1 can't say! Lord Au- 
gustus Loftus lunched with us three and the elder children; and we 
drank your health, the band playing " God save the Queen!" All 
our girls had wreaths of natural flowers in honor of the day. 

Potsdam: June 1. 
. . . To-day is regular March weather, and the palace is cold 
and draughty. 

We were in Berlin yesterday, to visit the Gewerbe-Museum [In- 
dustrial Museum]; then luncheon at Lord Augustus Loftus's, and 
from thence to the Victoria Bazaar and Victoria Stift, and then home. 

It is always so tiring to see things at Berlin; an hour's rail there 
and the same back takes so much time. Before returning, we paid 
a short visit to Baron Stockmar and his wife, who is very pleasing, 
and seems to suit him perfectly. They look as if they had always 
belonged to each other. 

Potsdam ; June 13. 
Our time here is soon drawing to a close, much to my regret; 
for the life with dear Vicky — so quiet and pleasant — reminds me in 
many things of our life in England in former happy days, and so 
much that we had Vicky has copied for her children. Yet we both 
always say to each other, no children were so happy; and so spoiled 
with all the enjoyments and comforts children can wish for, as we 
were; and that we can never (of course, still less I) give our children 
all that we had. I am sure dear Papa and j'^ou, if you could ever 
hear how often, how tenderly, Vicky and I talk of our most beloved 
parents, and how grateful we are for what they did for us, would in 
some measure feel repaid for all the trouble we gave, and all the anx- 
iety we caused. I ever look back to my childhood and girlhood as 
the happiest time of my life. The responsibilities, and often the 
want of many a thing, in married life can never give unalloyed hap- 
piness. 



118 ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

We are looking for a governess for the two elder girls for next 
year, and a lady with the necessary knowledge and character, and 
yet of a certain rank, is so ditflcult to find. 

Potsdam : June 19. 

Louis went two days ago to Fischbach for his mother's birth- 
day, and returns to-morrow morning. Yick}^ was very low yester- 
day : she has been so for the last week, and she tola me much of 
what an awful time she went through in 1866, when dear Siggie 
[Sigismund] died. The little chapel is very peaceful and cheerful, 
and full of flowers. We go there e?i 2)assant nearly daily, and it 
seems to give dear Vicky pleasure to go there. 
Vicky goes on the 7th of July to Norderney, 

Fischbach, Schlesien : July 2. 

We arrived here in this exquisitely lovely country two days ago, 
and were received by our parents-in-law and Aunt Mariechen, whose 
guests we are in the pretty old Castle of Fischbach, surrounded by 
linfi old trees, with a view on the beautiful Riesengebirge, which re- 
minds me a little of Scotland, and also of Switzerland. The val- 
leys are most lovely and the numberless wooded hills, before one 
reaches the high mountains, are quite beautiful. The trees are 
splendid and the country looks very rich and green. 

All the people of the village and the neighborhood came out to see 
us and our children, and old servants of Louis' grandparents, who 
were so delighted and pleased tbatland my children should be here, 
and that they should have lived to see the yoimger generation. 

We are out seeing the beautiful spots nearly all day long. The 
weather is fine, and not very warm, so that one can go about com- 
fortably. Yesterday we went over for tea toErdmanusdorf. If only 
dear Vicky and Fritz were there now! We must hope for another 
year to be there together. The p rting from them, who had made 
our sejour under their hospitable roof such a very happy one, was 
very sad, and Ibe pourinii- rain was in accordance with our feelings. 
AVe left them and dear lovely Potsdam and the pleasant life there 
with much regret, and many a blessing do I send bacli in thought to 
its dear inmates. 

Yesterday afternoon we were at Schmiedeberg. We went to see 
a very interesting carpet- manufactory, worked by hand, and all by 
girls, and a very simple process, much like making fringe, which 
you used to do and then make footstools of after Beatrice's birlh. 

Yesterday our wedding-day — already seven years ago — made me 
thinli so much of Osborne, and of you, darling Mamma, and of all 
that passed during that time. It was a quiet wedding in a time of 
much sorrow, and 1 often thlnlc how trying it must have been for 
you. 

Kranichstein : July 21. 

Yesterday after eighteen hours' very hot railway journey, we ar- 
rived here all well. Many thanks for your letter, which I received 
at Dresden. It was impossible to write, as 1 had to pay visits and to see 
things, during those two days. 

The Crown Prince and Princess received us at the station; the fol- 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 119 

lowing day we paid our visits. I found Marie* in bed looking very well, 
and her baby, tied up in a cushion, seemed a nice child. Iler other chil- 
dren are very pretty; the eldest girl is like George, and the little one 
has a quantity of fair curls, like Louis of Portugal's boy. In the after- 
noon of that day the King and Queen came to see us, and were very 
kind. She is very like the Queen Dowager of Prussia, her twin 
sistt-r, and her other sister, Queen Marie, is very like her twin 
sister, Archduchess Sophie. As they are first cousins, and very 
fond ones, of my father-in-law, they consider themselves of course 
as our aunts. 

1 went to see the picture-gallery, which has some exquisite pict- 
ures, tliough the Sistine Madonna surpasses all others, and the fa- 
mous Holbein, of which the Dresden gallery has been for long so 
proud, is now recognized as a copy, and the one that belongs to my 
mother-in-law as the original. We visited the Grline Gewolbe [the 
Green Vaults], where the magnificent jewels and other treasures are 
preserved, and the King was kind enough to lead us over the rest of 
the castle himself, including his own rooms, in one of which the 
life-size pictures of his last four daughters (all dead) stand, of whom 
he cannot speak without tears. How dreadfully he and the poor 
Queen must have suffered these last years! 

Uncle Louis is at Friedberg, and intends remaining there all next 
month, till the maneuvers are over. Alice Morie;' will accompany 
me. 

Kranichstein : July 25. 
Thousand thanks for your kind letter which I received yester- 
day, at the same time that the beautiful chnslenir>g present for Er- 
nest arrived! Thousand thanks for this most beautiful and precious 
gift for our boj', from Louis and from myself! We are so pleased 
with it! It is to be exhibited here, and it will interest and delight 
all who see it, I am sure. 

I have just received a letter from Bertie, announcing his arrival 
here for the 28th. We shall be greatly pleased to see them all; but 
we have so little room, and our house in tow n is all shut up and 
under repair, so that we shall have some trouble to make them com- 
fortable and shall be quite unable to do it as we should wish. But 
1 trust they will be lenient and put up with what we can offer. 

The heat is veiy great, though this place is comparatively cool. 

Kranichsteiu : July 29. 

Dear Bertie and Alix with their children arrived at Darmstadt 

after ten, and we brought them here by eleven o'clock last night. 

They are all looking well, but Bertie has shaved off his beard, which 

does not suit him. Dear Alix is unchanged, and certamly no fatter. 

The children are very dear and pretty, but my boy is as tall as lit- 
tle Louise, and of course much bigger. I am so delighted to see 
them all again; it is such a great plcasiu-e, as you can well imagine. 

The pony you kmdly sent us has just arrived, and to the great de- 
light ot ail the children, who send their best thanks. We are all 
lodged very close together: Bertie and Alix, our bedroom and my 

* Princess George of Saxouy, Infanta of Portugal, who died in February, 
1884. 



120 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

dressing-room; we both, my sitting-room, and the passage-room;, 
then come the diflerent children. No gentlemen or ladies are in the 
house, as it was utterly impossible. 

Kranichstein : August 11. 
. . . Yictoria has often ridden on Dred, and also the other girls, 
on a Spanish saddle, and he goes very well. They delight in him. 
Baby rolls about the room anywhere now, and tries to crawl prop- 
erly. He calls Papa, and tries no end of things ; he is very forward, 
and is now cutting his fifth tooth, which is all but through. 

Friedberg : August 26. 
On this dear day I must send you a few words. The weather is 
so beautiful, and the sun so bright, as it used to be at Osborne in 
former years. 1 don't care for the sun to shine on this day now, as it 
can't shine on Him whose day it was. It makes one too wehtioiltMg 
to think of darling Papa on those happy birthdays, and it must be 
more so for you than for any of us, poor Mamma. 

Yesterday was Ludwigstag ; all the town decorated with flags, 
illumications, &c., and English flags and arms with the Hessian 
everywhere. 

We started on horseback along the high road at half -past seven 
this morning, and did not get off till one. A lovely countiy and 
very interesting 'to see. To-morrow we shall have a very long 
march, and the night Alice Morier, I and William (Louis is unde- 
cided) will spend at Prince Ysenburg's at Biidingen. The next 
morning we have to ride off at half -past five, and a long day back 
here. 

Kranichstein: September 11. 

. . . What charming expeditions you must have made in that 
lovely country!* What 1 saw of it some years ago I admired so 
intensely. You can well be proud of all the beauties of the High- 
lands, which have so entirely their own stamp, that no Alpine scen- 
ery, however grand, can lessen one's appreciation for that of Scotland. 

The day before yesterday we went to Mayence to see a " Gewerbe- 
Ausstellung " [Industrial Exhibition] of the town, which was very 
good and tastefully arranged. From there we went to Frankfort to 
our palace, for a rendezvous with Aunt Cambridge, Uncle George, 
Augusta and Fritz Strelitz. 1 showed them the children, and after- 
ward, when our relations left, we took our children to the Zoolog- 
ical Garden, which delighted them. 

Many thanks for the grouse, which has just arrived, the first since 
two years ago! 

Darmstadt: October 3. 
... I am very glad that you also approve of Louis' journey, 
which 1 know will be so useful and interesting for him, though it 
was not possible to attain this without parting from each other, 
which is, of course, no small trial for us, who are so unaccustomed 
to being separated. But we never thought of that when we consid- 
ered the plan of Louis joining Fritz, which was my idea, as travel- 

* This refers to the Queen's stay at Inverfcrossachs, and the excursions to 
the neighborhood. These are described in More Leaves from a Journal of a 
Life in the Highlands, Seaside Library No. 16T8. 



ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 121 

ing in new^ countries is so good for a man, and Louis may never find 
so good a chance again. 1 am looking forward very much to seeing 
Geneva — where we soend a day — and the south of France, and, 
above all, seeing the sea again. Fritz passes through here to-mor- 
row. Louis starts Saturday morning, via Munich, for Venice, 
where he will join Fritz next Sunday afternoon, and spend the fol- 
lowing Monday there before they go to Brindisi. Vicky comes here 
with her children on the 12th or IHth, and a suite of twenty-five 
people. She goes on w.ith the big boj'S to Baden, and I follow with 
the other children on the following day. I don't like separating 
Victoria and Ella, who like being together; the three girls will be so 
well taken care of at their grand parents. ' 1 have written down rules 
for meals, going out, to bed, to lessons, &c. ; and my mother-in- 
law, who never inteiferes, will see that all is carried out as I wish. 
I shall miss them so much, but having one child at least is a com- 
fort; and Baby is beginning to talk, and is so funny and dear, and 
so fond of me that he will be compauj^ to me when 1 am alone. 1 
take no one but Orchard, Eliza, Beck, and my Haushofmeister 
[Steward], who used to be with Lord Granville. 

Darmstadt: October 11. 
Yesterday morning at eleven we had the hard sepai'ation from 
each other, which we both felt very much. My own dear, tender- 
hearted Louis was quite in the state he was in when we parted at 
Windsor in 1860 after our engagement. He does not like leaving 
his children, his home, and me, and really there are but few such 
husbands and fathers as he. To possess a heart like his, aud to call 
it my own, 1 am ever prouder of and more grateful for from year to 
year. Nowadays young men like Louis are rare enough, for it is 
considered fine to neglect one's wife, and for the wife also to have 
amusements in which her husband does not share. We sisters are 
singularly blessed in our husbands. 

Dear kind Countess Bllicher has been here the last two days — such 
a happiness to me just now, for the house feels far too lonely. 

Graud Hotel, Cannes : November 5. 
... I have this instant received another letter from dear Louis 
from Constantinople, giving the accounts of what they did and saw 
there until the ?9th ult., when they left for Jafta. He seems de- 
lighted, and very greatly interested with all he has seen. Louis 
thought so much of the Sultan's English visit in 1867, on seeing 
him again. He found him more talkative than then. He saw also 
several of the suite who were in England. They went to Scutari, 
into the Black Sea, and visited all in and near Constantinople, and 
on the last day they visited the Emperor of Austria, who had just 
arrived. There is something very funny in hearing of these Royal- 
ties, one after another, all running to the same places. They must 
bore the Sultan considerably. 

This journey will be of great advantage to dear Louis, who has 
never had an opportunity (through marrying so young) of traveling 
like others. 

This afternoon we went to see poor Princess Waldeck. She is 
sfffl in great grief at the loss of her eldest daughter, who suffered so 



122 ALICE, GRANT) DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

long, and knew she was dying, and boi'e her lot with auch lesigna- 
tion and surh goodness. She was only fifteenand a-half, 1 think. 

1 was very much pleased to see Lord and Lady Russell again the 
other day. We hope to be able to pay them a visit at San Remo, 
though one can't go and return in the same day. 

The country has looked too lovely to-day ; the sunset is always 
most beautiful, for It sets behind the Esterel mountains, which lie to 
the right from this bay, and have a very lovely jagged form. 

1 am reading to Vicky a new Life of Napoleon, by Lanfrey, 
which is very well and impartially written. 

Cannes : December 14. 
. . . The heavenly blue sea, stretching so far and wide, is in 
accordance with one's feelings, and tlie beauties of nature have 
always something comforting and soothing. . . . 

The Duke of Arsryll's sister, with his pretty daughter Victoria, 
are here, and we have been twice to see them, and are distressed 
that they should be so anxious about the dear Duchess, of whom 
the news to-day is worse. How dreadful, should anything happen 
to her, for her husband and for the many children! 

The Eburys and Lord Dalhousie have likewise arrived here, but 
we have not seen them yet. 

To-morrow we had intended leaving this, but during the night 
poor Vicky had the dreadful fright of Waldie's being tatven ill with 
the croup. Thank God, he is better this morning, but our journey 
will have to be put off for a few days, so that Vicky cannot now 
reach Berlin in time for Christmas. As we don't wish to spend that 
day en route, we have telegraphed to our husbands, who reached 
Naples to-day, to ask whether they will not join us here, that we 
may all spend Christmas together before leaving. 

This is all unsettled, and I will telegraph as soon as aaything is 
definitively arranged. Rollet* is here to-day, and spends this day 
in quiet with us. 

Cannes : December 20. 
We both had the happiness yesterdaj'" of receiving our dear hus- 
bands safe and well here after so long a separation. 

They had been to Naples and Pompeii, and Louis went for a day 
to Rome, so that he has seen an enormous deal, which is very in- 
structive for him, and will be such a pleasure for him to look back 
upon in later years. 

1 am so glad that Louis has had the opportunity of making this 
journey; and it seems to have done his health good*lso, for he looks 
very well. 

The journey back is so long and difficult for me to manage alone 
with Louis— as Vicky's people, particularly in the nursery, have 
helped mine — that I am obliged to wait until the 26th, and to go 
with Vicky and Fritz, for they travel slower than I would do if I 
went with Louis, who goes back direct day and night. The doctor 
would not consent to ray traveling with Ernie from this warm cli- 
mate into the great cold so fast, and during the night, for he is cut- 
ting four back teeth at this moment. 

• Madame RoUande, formerly the Princess's French governess. 



ALICE, GEAKD DUCHESS OF HESSK. 123 

The day before yesterday we visited Lord Dalhoiisie and Lady 
Christian, and found him very gouty, but in good spirits. Lady 
Ebury and Oggie* cainc to see us this" afternoon. Prince and Prin- 
cess Frederic of the Netherlands and their daughter have arrived 
here. The poor Princess is so weak, and loolis Jike a shadow. 

Hotel du Jura, Dijon : December 28. 
Just as we were leaving Cannes your last letter reached me. for 
which many thanks. It was cold the morning we left Cannes, very 
cold at Avignon, where we soent the night, and still colder, and 
snow and frost, on reaching this place yesterday evening. We and 
the children are all well, and the poor little ones are very good on 
the journey, considering all things. In an liour we leave for Paris, 
rest there to-morrow and then go to Cologne, where 1 shall take 
leave of dear Vicky and Fritz, and go straight home. 1 have been 
so much with dear Vicliy this year, that the thought of parting from 
her costs me a great pang, the more so as I do not think it likely 
that 1 shall meet her in this new year. 

On New Year's eve 1 arrange a Christmas-tree for all my chil- 
dren, and ia advance 1 thank yon for all the presents yau have been 
kind enough to send us, and which we shall find at Darmstadt. . . . 



1870. 



At the beginning of this year, and soon after his return from the 
East, Prince Louis was laid up with scarlet fever, and, soon after. 
Princess Victoria and the little Prince took the same illness. 
Though the attack was a severe one, all made a good recovery, and 
no ill effects remained behind. Princess Alice undertook the nurs- 
ing entirely herself. During this time of enforced seclusion from the 
social world her intercourse with the ftmious writer and theologian, 
David Friedrich Strauss, was a source to her of great interest and 
enjoyment. 

The Princess became acquainted with this remarkable man in 
the autumn of 1868 at her own particular desire, and after 
considerable hesitation on his part. Strauss had spent the win- 
ter of 1866 at Darmstadt. lie returned there again in the spring of 
1868, and remained there till the autumn of 1 872. His own account 
of his acquaintance with the Princess was by her wish not published 
at the time, but has been since, with the consent of liis family and 
that of the Grand Duke. From this the following nan-ative is taken 
almost verbatim: — 

" Although I was entirely unaccustomed to associate with per- 
sons of high rank, 1 soon felt entirely at ease with this lad}'. Her 
simplicity, the kind manner in which she met me, and her keen 
bright intellect made me forget all differences of social position." 

Strauss visited the Princess very often, and their conversations 
lasted sometimes for hours. He himself speaks of them as " most 
delightful and refreshing." 

* Miss Grosvenor, Lady Ebury's daughter. 



124 ALICE^ GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Very often they read aloud, and this no doubt led to a suggestion 
from Strauss, that he should write down notes about Voltaire— 
whose works they were studying — and afterward read them to the 
Princess. She entered readily into this plan. "Her idea was to 
have a select circle of listeners. Besides herself and one of her 
ladies, with whom she was very intimate, Prince Louis, and the 
English Minister then at Darmstadt, Mr. [now Sir Robert] Moiier, 
weie to be present." The illness of Prince Louis prevented this 
plan from being carried out. 

"She, however, asked me," Strauss writes, "to come and see 
her, if 1 was not afraid of infection. She said that the next few 
weeks Avould be very solitary ones, and it would be of great value 
to her if 1 felt disposed to put up with her as sole audience for my 
lectures on Voltaire. To this 1 was only too willing to agree." 

The manuscript took the form of seven lectures, and the author 
was rewarded for his pains " by the keen interest and unwavering 
attention of his listener." 

After repeated revisions the printing of the work on Voltaire be- . 
gan. Strauss gives his own account of this in the following 
extract : — 

" When it first occurred to me to write something on Voltaire for 
the Princess in the form of lectures, I naturally cherished the hope 
that, when the little book was printed, I might obtain her permission 
to dedicate it to her. As the work progressed, however, this hope 
became fainter, and by the time the book was ready 1 had entirely 
given it up. 

"1 could only take iDleasure in my work, if I felt 1 had been per- 
fectly sincei-e; if, instead of condemning Voltaire, as is usually the 
case, 1 stood up for him upon essential points — nay, even went so 
far as to intimate that here and there he had seemed to me not to 
have gone far enough. 

" The Princess might naturally have scruples about allowing a 
book of such a tendency to be dedicated to her, considering her posi- 
tion and what was due to it; and to ask her to allow the book to be 
dedicated to her seemed forbidden by that discretion which 1 was 
bound to observe. The thought then struck me of writing with my 
own hand into the copy of the book which J. gave her the Dedication, 
in the terms in which it now stands printed on the second page of 
the volume. Meanwhile, on the one hand, the friendly intercourse 
with the Princess continued, whilst on the other the printing of the 
book advanced. One day in the most kind manner she told me how 
much she felt she owed to our acquaintance, and how much it had 
helped to clear her views in many ways. I, on my part, expressed 
to her in all sincerity the animating and exhilarating influence which 
our intercourse had exercised upon myself, and, in pariicular, how 
it had cheered and encouraged me in my labors on Voltaii'e. 

" ' It would be n.ce if you would dedicate your book to me,' the 
Princess rejoined. How agreeably surprised I was can easily be 
imagined 1 acknowledged without hesitation how this had been 
my first intention, but that 1 had given it up out of regard for her, 
not wishing to expose her to misinterpretation. The Princess re- 



ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 135 

plied that the fear of being misunderstood would never prevent her 
from doing what she thought right. I pointed out, that the matter 
must be Tvell and carefully considered, and that, first and foremost, 
she must obtain her husband's consent. Her answer was that .she 
had no fear on that point; but that she would of course consult him 
about it. I told the Princess that I had made several changes and 
additions since 1 first wrote the lectures. 1 would therefore bring 
her the proof sheets as soon as they were ready, partly that she 
might glance over the whole again, and partly that she might draw 
the" Prince's attention to any doubtful passages. They would then 
be able to form their own opinions. 

' ' 1 sent her the proof sheets, and received them back from the 
Princess on the 11th of Jime, 1870, with the following letter: — 

* ' ' Dear Hekr Professor, — I return you your Voltaire with many 
thanks. My husband read through the fifth chapter of it yesterday ; 
he does not think that its contents are such as to justify my refusing 
the dedication. The value which 1 place on the dedication of your 
book will always be far greater than any little unpleasantness which 
might possibly arise fi'om my accepting it. 

" 'Alice.' 

" The dedication was thus imqualifiedly accepted, but now — in 
what words should I put it? 1 had got accustomed to the form in 
which I had meant to write it myself into I he copy 1 wished to pre- 
sent to the Princess. 1 intended saying that I had written lectures for 
the Princess, and that she had allowed me to read them aloud to her. 
Would not this make the Princess, so to speak, an accomplice of this 
objectionable book? Could I state this publicly? I felt myself 
bound to leave to the Princess the choice betueen this dedication and 
a more formal one, in which these allusions were omitted. Upon 
this the Princess sent me the following answer: — 

" ' 1 should not like any change made in what you have written 
on the fix Sit page, and am greatly touched at your kind dedication. 

" ' Alice.' 

" "When 1 was at last able to send her my book in its complete 
form with the Dedication printed, I received the following note 
from her, written from Kranichstein, on the 27th of June, 1870: — 

" ' 1 have not been able till to-day' to thank you for your Voltaire 
received yesterday. The book itself is the cause of the delay, as I 
•devoted my spare time to reading over what you had yourself read 
to me so beautifully last winter. I seemed to hear your voice and 
all your oljservations again. 1 must thank you once more for that 
great enjojnuent, and for the kind terms of j'our dedication. 

" ' Alice.' 

" Seldom have the negotiations about the dedication of a book 
been carried on in a way like this, and seldom has a Royal Princess 
shown herself so courageous and amiable. " 

All must agree in ^is opinion, from whatever point of view they 
look at the subject. It was like the Princess's straightforward nature 



126 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

boldly to acknowledge to the world her friendship for Strauss, 
even at the risk of incurring the most unfavorable criticisms. 
Strauss says, further, in his Memoirs: — 

" The memory of the Princess Alice will be inRpparably con- 
nected, as long as 1 live, with one of the mo>;t gratifying episodes of 
my lite— the writing of my worli on VoUaire." 

To this must be added that though, as time went on, the Princess 
agreed less and less with Strauss's avowed religious views, and 
especially differed considerably from those enunciated in his book 
The Old and the Neio Faith, she never thouglit otherwise of Strauss 
than with gratitude and esteem, as one in whom she had met with the 
most beautiful cuaracteristics of the best German scholarship — viz., 
unliinchina: sincerity, combmed with a rare gift of saying what it 
has to say clearly and pleasantly, and a winning modesty' of personal 
demeanor. 

In the end of March the Prince and and Princess with their fam- 
ily went to ]Vla3^ence tor change of air after the scai'let fever. The 
Princess went, much into society during her stay there; but this did 
not prevent her from making use of every possible opportunity for 
furthering those institutions which she ha*! so much at heart. She 
visited the hospitals at Mayence, Offenbach, and Giessen, and had 
many consultations with the heads of these various hospitals with 
a. view to possible improvements. 

The quiet, happy time at Kranichstein during the summer was 
suddenly brought to an end by the declaration ot war between 
Trance and Germany. Prince Louis had to go to the front with his 
division, which, together with another division, formea the Ninth 
Army Corps, and part of the Second Army, commanded by Prince 
Frederick Charles of Prussia. The Princess took leave of her hus- 
band on the 25th of July. She, however, saw him again once or 
twice before the final leave-taking, on the 1st of August. 

On the 15th of August the Hessian division for the first time en- 
countered the enemy, before Metz, and on the 16th took part in the 
battle of Mars-la-Tour. During the terrible battle of Gravel otte, 
on the 18th of August, Prince Louis and his division occupied a 
central position in the irresistible force, which drove Marshal Bazaine 
back into Metz, and held him imprisoned there with an iron grasp. 

On the 19ih Prince Louis and the troops encamped on the battle- 
field, and he had the pleasure of meeting his brother Henry. Prince 
Louis tool? part-, in the battle of Noisseville on the 31st of August, 
when General Manteufiel commanded the troops engaged. He and- 
his division also formed part of the army investing Metz, partly do- 
ing out- post duty, and partly servinsr in the reserve. 

On the 8lh of October, whilst the Prince was in command of his 
division at Gravelotte, where the troops were concentrated in hourly 
expectation of a sortie ot the French from Metz, he received the 
news of the birth of a second son, who had been born on the 7th. 

Ever since the Prince's departure the Princess had remained " at 
her post " in Darmstadt, helping, comforting, and advising all 
around her. She was proud to be the wife of a German olhcer serv- 
ing in the field in such & cause, though her life foi' the present was 



ALICE, GRA.KD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 187 

full of anxiety and care. She worked, like any other woman, to 
alleviate as best she could the sufferings of tlie sick and the wounded, 
and giving aid to those who were plunged inio destitution by the 
war. Whilst she was living with her children at Kranichstein the 
" Httlfsverein," or Coramitte of Aid, had its head-quarters in her 
palace at Darmstadt. Slie herself went there every day,- visited all 
the hospitals, also the ambulances at the railway station, and super- 
intended the organization of " Commitlees of Aid" all over the 
country. The Committees which she had organized long previously 
now proved themselves an untold blessing. 

The " Alice Society for Aid to Sick aiid Wounded " had sixteen 
trained nurses ready for work at the beginning of the war. Through 
the voluntary help of some of the best doctors and surgeons, who 
arranged classes at different places for the instruction of all those 
who were anxious to help to nurse during ihe war, the number of 
nurses was increased by degrees to one hundred and sixly-four. 
These were sent to the different hospitals in Hesse, to ambulances 
near Metz, to the hospital trains, and the hospitals on the steamers. 

In her own palace the Princess arranged a depot for all necessaries 
required for the sick and wounded. Later on another was established 
in the Grand Ducal palace. Besides the many regular nurses, a 
number of women and ladies joined together to serve out refresh- 
ments, during the night as well as the daytime, to the wounded, 
who were constantly passing through Darmstadt and halted at the 
railway station. Similar committees were, thanks to the Princess's 
own initiative, formed all over the country. 

One of the hospitals at Darmstadt, erected by the English jSTalional 
Red Cioss Society, and supplied with English surgeons, received the 
name of 'The Alice Hospital." Under a special arrangement it 
was subsequently taken over by the Hessian military authorities. In 
this hospital, as "in others established independently of the "Alice 
Society," women and girls of all classes lent their aid. 

Simultaneously with the aid to the sick and wounded, those who 
had been rendered widows, orphans, or destitute b}' the war were 
cared for tUrongh the Princess's exertions: and " The Alice Society 
for the Educaiion and Employment of Women " did good service. 
Out of this Society sprung the " Alice Lyceum," which was intend- 
ed for the intellectual culture of women of the higher classes. Lect- 
ures were to be delivered in it on all the interesting subjects of the 
day. This Lyceum continued for some years to attract a more or 
less numerous audience. In the first wmier of its existence lectures 
on English and German Literature, Ihe History of Art, German 
History, and Natural History were given. The lady at the head of 
it was Fraulein Louise Biichner. Its subsequent failure was caused 
by numerous external difficulties, and not because the original idea 
for which it had been founded had proved otherwise than sound. 

The little new-born Prince continued to thrive, and Ihe Princess 
made a comparatively quick recovery. The Crown Princess of Prus- 
sia, who was then living at Homburg, came constantly to see her . 
sister; and later on, in November, they went together to Berlin. The 
christening ot the little Prince, who'was to Jjear the name of the 
victorious general of VVeissenburg and Worth, was deferred till his 
father's return. 



12.S ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Prince Louis had garrisoned Fort Bt. Privat on the- 39th of Octo- 
her, and saw the 173^000 French prisoners and ln3.perial Guard pass 
before Prince Frederick Charles of Prussia. 

On the 30th the troops marched further into the interior of the 
country. Troyes was reached on the 10th of November, a few days 
later Pontainebleau, and soon after the troops confronted the " Army 
of the Loire " at Toury. The battle of Orleans took place on the 3rd 
and 4th of December, 'and on the 5th the victorious troops made the 
entry into the town. Part of the Hessian division moved along the 
left bank of the Loire, and fought the engagement of Montlivault 
on the 9th of December; the other part of it surprised and took pos- 
session of the Castle of Chambord, with five guns and many pris- 
oners. Blois was soon after taken; and fiom the 10th of December 
till the 14th of February, 1871, the headquarters were at Orleans. 
During the expedition against General Chanzy the Hessian division 
alone guarded the line of the Loire from Gien to Blois. 



January 8. 
. . . My three girls have had fearful colds— Ella bronchitis, 
which Ernie also took from her, and during twelve hours we were 
in the very greatest anxiety about him: the difficulty of breathing 
and his whole state caused great alarrn. Thank God, he is now 
quite convalescent ; but those were hours of intense suffering for me, 
as you can imagine. Weber is most attentive and most kind on such 
occasions, and in such moments one is so dependent on the doctor. 

. . . Some very good lectures have been given here lately, under- 
taken by a committee, which we are at the head of, and of which 
Mr. Morier is a member. They have been a great success hitherto, 
and we are going to one to-night by Kinkel, who in 1848 was a 
refugee in England, and is now a professor at Zurich. 

January 16. 
Beloved Mamma, — We are very grateful for your kind in- 
quiries, and for your letter received this morning. The violence of 
the fever and the great pain in the throat have abated, and dear 
Louis is going on favorably. The nights aie not good as yet, and 
his head pains him. 

1 am cut off from all intercourse with anyone in the house, on 
account of the dear children; and I trust they may escape, for they 
still cough, particularly Ella and Ernie. 1 see Christa when I am 
out Walking, not otherwise, as she comes in contact with the part of 
the house where the children live. I read to Louis, aadplay to him, 
as my sitting-room opens into the bedroom. 1 keep the rooms well 
aiied, and not hot, and at night I sleep on a sofa near his bed. The 
first two nights were anxious ones, and 1 was up all night alone 
with him; but now, thank God, all snems to be going well. . . . 

January 30. 

I am happy to say that all is going on well. Louis has no more 

fever, but his throat is still far from well ; it has still the character 

of diphtheria, though in a mild form — a sort of skin and bits of 

blood come away when he coughs. He is a very good patient, and 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 129 

I leave him very little alone save ■when 1 take my walks, which ia 
this high cold wind are very unpleasant. I hear Ella is still so 
hoarse and coughs, and Victoria is not quite well. Orchard writes 
to me every evening, and Dr. Weber sees them in the morning be- 
fore he comes downstairs. 

This instant Weber tells me that Victoria has the scarlet fever, 
and I have just been up to see her. She suffers very much, poor 
child; the fever is very high and the rash much out. It is too late 
now to separate the others, and those who are- not predisposed will 
escape; but those who are inclined to take it have it in them by 
this time. 
I It is a source of great anxiety. Orchard and Emma have never 
had it. . . . 

January 23. 

I was very glad to get your dear lines of the 22nd, full of sym- 
pathy for me during this anxious time. Victoria's fever has been 
very high; and so much discomfort and pain, with a dreadful 
cough, which she has had for the last six weeks. She is very low, 
and cries every now and then from weakness, &c., but is a very 
good patient, poor little one. Amelung comes every afternoon and 
sits with her, and she is a great favorite with the children, as she 
knows countless pretty stories. 

Louis is not out of bed yet, on account of his throat, &c. ; but he 
is much better, though in this treacherous climate, which is pro- 
verbially bad for throats and lungs, 1 fear that even with the great- 
est care there is a risk. 

The other children are as yet well, though I don't think Ella look- 
ing well; she has still a cold, and is as hoarse as when I came home. 
Ernie is all right again, and looks the best of them all. I doubt 
their escaping, though it is quite possible, as they did not take it 
when Victoria did. I keep the rooms fresh, and continually aired. 

All the balls and parties are going on here now. Of course, 1 can 
neither go anywhere nor receive anyone, on account of the infection. 
It is a wearisome time indeed, and being so much in sick rooms and 
so little out begins to tell upon me. How kind of you to send the 
- l)ooks! Louis will be delighted. I have just read to him Russell's 
book of Bertie and Alix's journey, and am now reading to him a 
new Life of Napoleon, by Lanfrey, which is very well WTitten— • 
more against than for Napoleon. Of course, newspapere and the 
Memie des Leux-Mondes 1 read to him besides. . . . 

January 31. 

. . . Though dear Baby has had two bad, restless nights, yet I 
am happy to say tbat he has the illness so slightly, with so little 
fever or sore throat, that we are in great hopes it will get no worse. 
He is cutting his back teeth just now, which is the worst moment 
possible to be ill in. 

Victoria looks veiy hollow-eyed, pale and wretched, poor darling, 
but is in good spirits now. The other two are as yet free. The 
weatner is most beautiful — frosty and clear — and 1 have been skating 
daily for the last six days, which does me much good, and enables 
me to see people again. This afternoon 1 have a large party on the 
ice at Kranichstein, and this is always a great amusement to the 
young people. . . . 



130 ALICE^ GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Mayence: April 10. 
. . . Yesterday evening we had to give a large party here, half 
to the military, and the other to the civil authorities and to the Bilr- 
ger [citizens].' It went off well; but the amount of speaking, as one 
must speak to all, and the effort to remember who they all were — 
they having been all presented at once — was no small exertion. . . , 

Mayence: April 15. 
. . . Lady Car. .[Barringlon] wrote to me how very grateful 
Mrs. Grey was to you for your great kindness and consideration.* 
In trouble no one can have a more true and sympathizing friend 
than my beloved Mamma always is. How many hearts has she not 
gained by this, and how many a poor sufferer's burdens has she not 
lightened! ... 

April 25. 

Thousands thanks for your dear loving lines ! I kissed Ihem a 
thousand times, and thank you so much for the quite lovely statuette 
— a little gem, which everyone has been admiring this morning. The 
shawl and little ornament gave me also great pleasure, and the col- 
ored photographs of the rooms — in short, all and anything from such- 
dear hands must give pleasure. . . 

June 35. 

... I am proud of my two girls, for they are warm-hearted 
and gifted, too, in appearancef Victoria's facility in learning ia 
wonderful, and her lessons are her delight. Her English history and- 
reading she has learned from me. 1 give her a lesson daily, and 
Bauerlein f can tell you how much she has learned. . . . 

I read a great deal, chiefly history and deeper works; and 1 have 
one or two very learned acquaintances with whom to read or to have 
books recommended by. 

My two committees always give me no end of work, and I have 
tried to have many improvements made in the girls' schools of the 
different classes; and some of these things, by dint of a deal of 
trouble, are prospering, and I hope in time to come will prove their 
worth. There is a great deal to be done, and in the hospitals 1 have 
been able to get some very necessary changes made. I tell you all 
this, fancying it may perhaps interest you a little bit. . . . 

July 2. 
How grieved 1 am for your sake, above all, and for the poor 
Clarks and ourselves, that dear kind Sir James, that true fatherly 
friend, is no more!! Many thanks for your last letter, which tells 
me of your last visit to him, which I am sure must be a great com- 
fort to you. Oh! how sad to think how many are gone! And for 
you, dear Mamma, this is quite dreadful. 1 can't say how 1 feel it. 
for you! 

Lord Clarendon's death grieves me much also; and it was so sud- 
den. Alice Skelmersdale wrote to me in the greatest distress; he 
had been a most loving father. 

In the midst of life we are in death; and in our quiet and solitary 

* General Grey, Her Majesty's private secretary, had recently died, 
t Miss Bauer, the German governess of the Royal family. 



ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 131 

existence out here, where we see no one, all accords with sad and 
serious feelings, which, amidst the many people and worry you live 
in, must jar with such feelings and make you wish for solitude. 
The accounts you give touch me so much. Many thanks for having 
written so much about dear Sir James ; it is of great value to me. 
Louisbegs me to say, how he shares the grief you all and we must 
leel at such a loss. 

TVhat you say about the education of our girls I entirely agree 
with, and 1 strive to bring them up totally free from pride of their 
position, which is nothing, save what their personal worth can make 
it. • I read it to the governess — who quite enters into all ray wishes 
on that subject — thinking how^ good it would be for her to hear your 
O])inion. ... 1 feel so entirely as you do on the difference of rank, 
and how all-important it is for princes and i^rincesses to knovr that 
they are nothing better or above others, save through their own 
merit; and that they have only the double duty of living for others 
and of being an example — good and modest. This I hope my chiL 
'dren will grow up to. 

July 26. 

When 1 returned home last night really heartbroken, after hav- 
ing parted from my good and tenderly-loved Louis, I found youi 
dear sympathizing words, and 1 thank you a thousand times for 
them — they were a comfort and pleasure to me! 1 parted wiih dear 
Louis late in the evening, on the high road outside the village in 
which he was quartered for the night, and we looked back until 
nothing more was to be seen of each other. May the Almighty 
Tvatch over his precious life, and bring him safe back again: all the 
pain and anxiety are forgotten and willingly borne if he is only left 

It is an awful time, and the provocation of a war such as this a 
crime that will have to be answered for, and for which there can be 
-no justification. Everywhere troops and peasants are heard singing 
" Die Wacht am Rhein " and " Was ist des Deutschen Vaterland?" 
and there is a feeling of unity and standing by each other, forget- 
ting all party quariels, which makes one proud of the name of 
German. All women feel ashamed of complaining, when father, 
husband, or son goes, and so many as volunteers in the ranks. This 
war is felt to be national, and that the King had no other course left 
him to pursue with honor. 

I must be in town by nine o'clock: so much rests on me, and 
there are so many to help — the poor forsaken soldiers' families 
amongst others! I have seen that all is ready to receive the wounded, 
and to send out help. I send out fourteen nurses for the Feld- 
Lazarethe [field-hospitals]. 

How much I feel for you now, for 1 know how truly you must 
feel for German j'' ; and all know that every good thing England does 
for Germany, and every evil she wards off her, is owing to your 
wisdom and experience, and to your true and just feelings. You 
would, 1 am sure, be pleased to hear how universally this is recog- 
nized and appreciated. 

What would beloved Papa have thought of this war? The unity 
of Germany, which it has brought about, would please him, but 
never the shocking means! 



132 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

July 281 
My darling Louis is at Worms, and Henry just in front of him. 
The enthusiasm all along the Rhine is wonderful. They are all hope- 
ful, though knowing well what enormous sacrifices and struggles a 
victory will cost. 

I cannot leave this place until our troops should have — which God 
prevent! — to reti-eat, and the French come! Now is the moment, 
when a panic might overcome the people; and I think it my duty to 
remain at my post, as it gives the people courage and conlidence. 
.My parents-in-law, who have their three sons out, tvould feel my 
absence, and they have the first claim on me. I am in beloved 
Loiiis' home, and hearer to him, if 1 remain. Of course, with dear^ 
Vicky 1 should personally be far better off. But Fritz is not much 
exposed, and she has not that fearful anxiety to such an amount as 
1 have for dear Louis, who, as commander of only a division, must 
be in the very midst of all. Day and night this thought is upper- 
most in my mind. I hope and pray for The best, and bear what is 
sent to me in common with so many others. Work is a Zeo'Streuung 
[distraction], and 1 know dear Louis would prefer knowing me here- 
for the present, and that must be the first consideration to determine 
my actions. 

Louis is well, and, now the dreadful parting is over, I am sure in. 
better spirits, though work and anxiety weigh on him, poor love. 

The children send their love. 1 am pretty well; able to do a great 
deal; headache and sleeplessness are but natural at this moment. 

Augusts. 

Arrived. in our house this morning, 1 was received with the -news 
of dear Fritz's first victory, and that 500 French prisoners had just 
passed through here by rail. 1 know none of ours can liave beeu- 
engaged, but we have not heard if there was an engagement else- 
where. The excitement and anxiety are quite dreadful! Please 
God, my darling is safe, and will pass safely through these dreadful 
dangers— and our many dear friends and acquaintances also! 1 am. 
alwaj^s sending off things for the wounded from our stores, and con- 
tinue working and collecting, and all are most patriotic and United. . 
It is a solemn and great time we live in, and there is something grand 
and elevating in the unity of high and low throughout this great 
nation, which makes one proud of belonging to it. It only all goes 
on well ! 

I am very sleepless, and never without headache, but one haa 
neither time nor wish to think of one's self. My own Louis' safety is 
the all-engrossing thought; and I know, beloved Mamma, that you 
love him truly, and share this anxiety with me. . . . 

August 15. 
A few words by messenger. I have sent a letter by Kanne, who- 
came here yesterday, having seen dear Louis the day before, which 
Was the first direct news I have had from him. Yesterday morning 
he was at Faulquemont. Poor General von Manstein (our Chef), 
when he reached Saarbrilck, found his son had been killed, and he 
had him taken out of the general grave and buried in the church- 
yard. . . . No less than forty French wounded I saw this morning, 



ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 133 

in our hospital, with some Turcos. Some can't speak in any known 
language, and the French dislike having these savages near them as 
much as we do; their physiognomies are horrid, and they steal and 
murder as Handwerk ftheir vocation]. 

So much going about — for 1 go to Darmstadt at half-past eight, 
and remain till half-past eleven in the morning, and in the afternoon 
from five till eight — is getting very fatiguing to me; but the people 
have no time to come out here, and there Is much to see to, and 
many to speak with. 

August 19. 
1 have tried to write as often as I could, but I have only two 
hours to myself during the whole day, through driving in here twice 
a day. Besides the large Hiilfsverein for the " wounded and sick," 
which is in our palace, 1 have daily to visit the four hospitals. 
There is very much to do; we are so near the seat of war. This 
morning we got two large wagons ready and sent off for Pont-^- 
Moussou, where they telegraph from tne battlefield of the 16th they 
are in great want. %ly best nurses are out there; the others are in 
three hospitals: two of them — military ones — were not ready or 
organized when 150 wounded arrived a week ago. . 1 have just had 
a telegram from dear Louis; he is well, and I hope in a day or two 
the least dangerously of the Hessian wounded will arrive. 

Thank God, all goes on successfully; but, indeed, 1 hope 1 shall 
not live to see another such war — it is too shocking by far. We 
have over five hundred wounded; as soon as any are better, they are 
sent north, and worse ones fill the beds— French and German inter- 
mixed. I neither see nor smell anything else but wovmds! and the 
first Anblick [sight], which sometimes one does not escape meeting, 
is very shocking! It was very late last night before I got home. I 
was stopped at one of the hospitals, as a poor soldier had had sud- 
den violent bleeding, and was all but dead, as the doctor could not 
find the artery; but I sent mj^ carriage for another surgeon, and I 
am happy to say he lives, and is recovering. 

As Louis commands the Avhole ot our little armj', a great many 
things concerning the troops come to me from all parts of the coun- 
try, and there is much to do — much more than in my present state 
is good for me; but it can't be helped. 

1 drive hack to Kranichstein by one daily, and am here again be- 
fore five, so 1 hope you will kindly forgive my writing seldomer. 
Becker is engrossed with his duties at the Pliilfsverein ; there is no 
other gentleman with me, and 1 have the household to look after, 
besides. 

August 20. 
My telegram will have told you that dear Louis is until now 
safe. On tlie 16th, in the evening, and on the 17th and 18tb, our 
troops were engaged, and yesterday evening late 1 drove to the sta- 
tion, to speak To General Kehrer, our commandant, and received a 
telegram of the last victory, near Metz— a battle of nine hours, very 
bloody — no mention of names. The people, all excited, crowded 
round my carriage, asked for news — which of our regiments had 
been under fire? 1 could tell them nothing, but pacified them, beg- 
ging them to go to their homes — they should hear as soon as I had 
news. I drove home with an aching heart, and passed a dreadful 



134 ALICE, GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Bight of suspense. At six this morning a telegram from Louis 
(19th); he and his two brothers safe; our loss enormous — seventy 
ofiicers out of one division (ours is Ihe 25th), and Oberlieutenant 
Moller, a great favorite, his adjutant since 1866, very badly wounded. 
I went at once to Darmstadt to Loviis' parents. They were so over- 
come and thankful to hear of tbe safety of their children. This 
continual anxiety is fearful. Now to-day all the poor wives, moth- 
ers, sisters, come to me for news of their relations; it is heartrend- 
ing! We sent off two large wagon-loads to Pont-a-Mousson again 
with provisions, bandages and medicaments, and mattresses to bring 
back all the wounded possible by rail. 1 went the round of the 
hospital, to have all the convalescent Prussians and French able to 
travel sent to their homes, so as to get room, and now we can await 
the sad arrivals. Oh, if it would but end! the misery of thousands 
is too awful I 

Kranichstein : August 25. 
Many thanks for your dear words of the 20th. God knows, 1 
liave suffered much, and the load of anxiety is great! But thou- 
sands of Germans bear this load in unity together for their Father- 
land, and none murmur. Yesterday a poor woman came to me to 
ask me to help her to get to the battlefield, to have the body of her 
only son looked for and brought home; and she was so resigned and 
patient. 

1 see daily, in all classes, so much grief and suffering; so many 
acquaintances and friends have fallen ! It is heartrending! 1 ought 
to be very proud though, and I am so, too, to hear from the mouths 
of so many wounded officers the loud praise of Louis' great bravery 
on the 16th and 18th. Always in front, encouraging his men where 
the battle raged fiercest and the balls fell thickest. He was near our 
troops, speaking to them, directing them, and right and left of him 
they fell in masses. This lasted eight hours ! 

. . . Hourly almost the trains bring in fresh wounded, and many 
and shocking are the sights one sees. 1 only returned here by one, 
having gone to town at half-past eight this morning, and have still 
three hospitals for this afternoon. 

My nurses reached the battlefield in time, and were of great use. 
Louis telegraphed (yesterday's date) from Auboue, between Thion- 
ville and Metz, where they remain in bivouac. ... It is ten days 
since Louis has been in a bed or under a roof. They have no water 
(it is kept for the wounded), and little to eat, but he is very well. 

It is difficult to get news, and. I can never send any that is not 
mostly ten days old ere it reaches him. 

August 26. 

... 1 had a telegrani on the 26th from near Marengo, not far 
from Metz — all well. Louis has not been in bed or under a roof 
since the 16th, and it rains incessantly. 1 hope they won't all be 
ill. He writes mostly on cards, on the hilt of his sword, sitting on a 
box. They cook their own dinner, and on the 16th they were going 
to eat it, when orders came to turn the French left wing and go into 
battle. That night was awful, though the day of the 18th seems to 
have been the bloodiest ever knpwn. Our wounded all tell me so. 
My dear parents-in-law bear up well; but when we three get to- 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 135 

gether we pour our hearts out to each otJier, and then tears which, 
are full of anxiety will flow. 

Kranichstein : September 2. 

I went early to Homburg, as no train go regularly now. I went 
by road from Frankfort, and found dear Vicky well — her little baby 
very pretty and healthy -looking; the other dear children also well. 

How much we had to tell each other! How much to be proud of, 
and how many friends and acquaintances to mourn over! The few- 
hours we had together flew by in no time, and at Frankfort the train 
was unpunctual — outside Darmstadt it waited nearly an hour. A.t 
our palace, where I arrived at ten in the evening, people who were 
going to our Hauptquartier [head-quarters] were waiting. 1 scrib- 
bled a few words to my dear Louis (the first since he received the 
Iron Cross, a great distinction) and packed a few things for him — 
tea, &c. 

September 15. 
Though I am still forbidden to use my eyes, I must send you a 
few words of thanks for your dear letter and telegram. 1 had a 
violent inflammation of eyes and tliroat, with two days' strong fever 
and neuralgia. I am recovering now, but feel the eflects very much; 
my eyes are still bad, and it has reduced my strength, which 1 re- 
quire so much. Dr. Weber has just lost his sister (whom he treated 
in her confinement) from puerperal fever, and he told me he thought 
he must have given it to her, from going to and fro to his wounded, 
for LazaTethfieber [hospital fever] and that were so closely akin. 
You can fancy that in Louis' absence, and with the prospect of 
being alone, without even a married experienced lady in the house, 
this prospect frightened me. It is unhealthy at any time to be for 
one's confinement in a town full of hospitals with wounded, and 
Weber could never give me as much attention as at another time, 
and, should 1 be very ill, there is no authority to say anything about 
what had best be done. On that account your telegram was a relief 
to me. 

September 20. 

. . . Daily 1 hear the mufiled drums of the funeral of some 
soldier or officer being taken past my windows to his last resting- 
place. How deeply I do feel for the poor parents and widows! 

My children are very well, but have absolutely no place where 
they can walk with safety from infection, for the mass of sick troops 
who get out and stop near the Exercirplatz [drill-ground], and the 
hospitals in town. The barrack at the foot of our garden contains 
1200 French prisoners, and many of them ill. It is much to be hoped 
that there will soon be an end to all these things. 1 feel for the Em- 
peror and Empress very much. What ungrateful, vain, and un- 
truthful people the French are! To expose Paris to a siege now 
their armies are beaten, which they think through fine speeches and 
volunteers they can set right again. 

September 22. 

I received your letter through Kanne yesterday, and thank you 
many times for it; also for the little shawls and sash for Ernie. 
Every souvenir from dear Balmoral is a pleasure. 

Good Dr. Hof meister will be very welcome, and 1 know he is very 
clever. Mrs. Clarke is sure to get on well with him, and an older 



136 ALICE, GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

doctor just now, besides being an acquaintance of so many years, Is 
to me indeed a comfort. 1 shall be able also to hear of all at home, 
and of so many things that interest me. Thousand thanlis from 
Louis and from myself for your sending him! . . . 

All, long for peace — the army and the nation — and 1 think so 
great a national war as this need not require part of the foes' terri- 
tory. What little is necessary for the military frontier they must 
take; but ilie union of Germany under one head is a far greater and 
finer end to such a war than the annexation of land! 

. . . War is the greatest scourge this world knows, and that we 
may not live to see it again, is my earnest prayer. 

October 1. 
. . . The children are all well, in spite of the bad air here. 1 
send them out driving of an afternoon, when 1 can best, having 
only one coachman, as ours are with Louis. At present they can't 
manage it often. ... 

October 3. 
. . . Dr. Hofmeister is to both of us a source of real confi- 
dence and comfort. 1 don't think anyone else would have been 
more welcome to me just now, and he can write daily to Louis, and 
letters go usually in two days now. 

I go as little as possible to the hospital now, and, indeed, do noth- 
ing imprudent, you can be sure. ... 

November 12. 
. . . "rhe nerves of my forehead and eyes are still painful; 
and from all sides I am again called upon to look after, settle, and 
advise concerning many things. On that account Dr. Weber and 
ray mother-in law insist on my leaving Darmstadt for a total change 
of scene, &c., for three weeks. 1 have resisted as long as I could, 
as 1 so much dislike going from home now (though 1 do not feel 
up to the work, and yet cannot keep from doing it), but 1 liave 
finally given in, and accept Vickj'^'s kind invitation to accompany 
her for three weeks to Berlin. The journey is long and cold, but 
her company when we are both alone is a pleasure to me, aad I 
shall hear all news as directly there as here. 

. . . Last night I was much overcome. 1 had been sitting at 
the bedside of one of my poor young friends, and he was gasping in 
a too-distressing way. The father held his hand, the tears stream- 
ing down his cheek, the son trying to say " Weine nicht, Papa" 
[" Don't weep, Papa!"]. The poor old father, so proud of his good 
and handsome child, is heartbroken, and they are touchingly united 
and full of feeling for each other. 1 would give anything to save 
his life; but all efforts will, 1 fear, be in vain. Though I have seen 
so many lately die hard deaths, and heard and seen the grief of 
many heartbroken widows and mothers, it makes my heart bleed 
anew in each fresh case, and curse the wickedness of war again and 
again. 

Poor Baby can't be christened yet, as my parents-in-law think 
Louis would not like it during his absence, so 1 shall wait. . . . 

November 17. 
. . . How 1 rejoice to hear that Leopold gains so much 
strength, and that he can be about again as usual. Will you kindly 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 137 

teli him in Louis' name and mine (as 1 am still restricted in all writ- 
ing and reading) that we beg liim to stand godfather to our little 
son?* Baby is so nice and fat now, and thrives very well. 1 think 
you would admire him, his features are so pretty, and he is so pink, 
and looks so wide-awake and intelligent. Ernie, who in general is a 
rough boy, is most tender and gentle to his little brother, and not 
jealous, ... 

Berlin : December 5. 
. . . Yesterday Fieldmarshal Wrangel came to see nae, and 
his words were, ' ' Zu gratuliren dass Ihr Mann ein Held ist, imd 
sich so superb geschlagen hat" ["Accept my congratulations that- 
your husband is a hero, and has fought so magnificently "]. 1 am 
very proud of all this, but I am too much a woman not to long 
above all things to have him saie home again. 

. . . The evenings Vicky and ] spend alone together, talking or 
writing our letters. There is so much to speak of and think about, 
of the present and the future, that it is to me a great comfort to be 
with dear Vicky. It is nearly five months since Louis left, and we 
lead such single existences that a sisler is inexpressibly dear when 
all closer intercourse is so wanting! There is so much, beloved 
Mamma, 1 should like to speak to you about. ... 

The girls are quite well, and very happy with their grandparents. 
The governess— who in the end did not suit for the chilaren — as the 
six months' trial is over, will not remain, and I am looking for 
another one. 

Darmstadt : December 18. 
. . . The children and 1 bore the journey well, and it was. 
not cold. Parting from dear Vicky was a hard moment, and 1 shall 
feel the loneliness here so much, and miss my dear good Louis 
more than ever. The children are, of course, at such a time the 
greatest blessing. There is so much to do for them and to look after 
for tliem; and mine are'^dear good children, and do not give over- 
much trouble. 

Letters I have again received speaK of tlie amount of danger Louis 
has again been daily exposed to, and how his personal courage and 
daring have given 1;he victory in many a fight. God protect him ! 1 
live in (ear and trembling for his precious life, and after 1 hear of 
his being safe through one battle, I take it as a fresh present from 
the Almighty, and breathe freer again, though the fear soon enough, 
gets the upper hand again. 

I have asked Uncle Louis to allow his Benchte [reports] to be 
copied for you. Louis has Kohler and another footman with him, 
that is all — and two coachmen. He rides at all battles the horse you 
gave him in 1866, which he rode during that campaign, and which 
is quite invaluable. It would interest ColoneJ Maude to know this, 
as he bought the horse. My nursery is in very good order, and they 
are all invaluable in their way. 

How is good Dr. Hofmeister's family? Please say many kind 
things to him from me, and tell him that the Baby is getting so nice 

* Prince Frederick William, the " Frittie " of these letters, bom the 6th of 
the previous month of October, and who was killed by a fall from a window 
on the ayth of May, 1873. 



138 ALTCJE, GRAN"D DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

and fat, and is so healthy in spite ol all troubles. Here is a photo- 
graph of him, but not at all flattered. Please give Dr. Hofmeister 
•one of them ! r 

1 have this instant received a letter from Louis dated the 11th! I 
"will have an extra made for you. 1 think it misjht interest Bertie to 
hear something of Louis, whom he can be proud to have as a 
brother-in-law, for 1 hear his praises continually. He has been 
throughout the war, as every other General has been, without a car- 
riage, •&c., like otlier Princes, and has gained the respect and devo- 
tion of his troops. 

Darmstadt : December 19. 

... I hope for this last time, if we are spared and live to 
come over together once more, we may have the joy of showing 
their dear Grandmamma the whole little band. Of course, no 
thoughts of plans can be entertained, and 1 know, after so very long 
a separation, Louis would not be willing again to part from his chil- 
dren. 

My wounded were so pleased to see me again yesterday. Alas! 
many in bed and so ill still! My two in the house are much better, 
and the one who during six weeks lay at death's door is recovering. 
I have seldom experienced so great a satisfaction as seeing this young 
man recover, and the doctors say 1 have been the means of saving 
his life. 

The joy of the old parents will be very great. Since 1 left, there 
are new widows and fresh parents bereft of only children; it is a 
most painful duty to go to them. But 1 know the comfort of sym- 
pathy is the only one in deep grief. 

December 23. 

My warmest and tenderest thanks for your dear and loving let- 
ter, with so many expressions of a mother's love and sympathy, 
which do my heart good, now that 1 feel so lonely and anxious. It 
seems too great a happiness to think of, that of our being allowed 
to come with our children to you, and to Scotland; and you know 
the smallest corner is enough for us, who are by no means particular 
— -neither are our people. If I write this to Louis, it will be some- 
thing for him to look forward to, to cheer him and reward him after 
so hard a time, which he bears so bravely and uncOmplainingl3\ 
This morning 1 have been at the Alice Hospital, which is pros- 
pering. I have been taking my gifts for Christmas to one hos- 
pital after another. Your two capes have delighted the poor suffer- 
ers, and the one wounded for the second time is very bad, alas! My 
wounded officer in the house is recovering, next to a miracle. For 
the two wounded in the house, the children, our household, and the 
children of our servants at the war, 1 arrange Christmas trees. 

We grown-up ones of the family have given up keeping Christmas 
for ourselves. We have too much to do for others, and my parents- 
in-law, like me, feel the absence of the dear ones who are always 
here for Christmas. 

1 am superintending Victoria and Ella's letters to you, which have 
not achieved the perfection wished for. As they are to be quite 
their own, 1 hope you will excuse their arriving a little later. 



ALICE, GRAIS'D DUCHESS OF HESSE. 139 

Darmstadt : December 27. 
. . . Loiiis telegraplied on Christmas day from Orleans, when 
I had sent Clirista's brother with a box of eatables and woolen 
things for his people, and a tiny Christmas tree with little lights for 
the whole party. Louis has sent me a photograph of himselt and 
staff done at Orleans, and I have sent for a copy for you, as it is 
vexy good. On Christmas day it was five months since Louis and 
the troops left. The channing stockings you sent, 1 have sent off 
in part to-daj' to Louis to give to his Stabswache [Staff -guard] ; the 
other things I divide among the wounded and sick. 

My children are all well. The little one sits up, and, though not 
very fat, is round and firm, with rosy cheeks and the brightest eyes 
possible. He is very healthy and strong, and in fact the prettiest of 
all my babies. The three girls are so grown, particularly the two 
eldest, you would scarcel.y know them. They are both very tall for 
their age. Victoria is the height of Vicky's Charlotte, and Ella not 
much less. They are thin, and a change of air would be very bene- 
ficial. 



1871. 

The christening of the little Prince took place quietly on the 11th 
of February, the child receiving the names of Frederick William. 
The sponsors were the Empress of Germany, the Crown Princess, 
Crown Prince, Prince Frederick Charles of Prussia, and Piincess 
Alice's own brother. Prince Leopold. The ceremony took place in 
the absence of Prince Louis, who had been unable to get leave, 
although an armistice had been concluded on the 28th of January, 
which it was hoped would be the forerunner of peace. 

On the 18th of March the King of Prussia, who had meanwhile 
become Emperor of Germany, made his entry into Frankf ort-on-the- 
Main, together with his^son and his whole staff. The Grand Duke 
of Hesse and the members of his family received him there. 

Prince Louis at last obtainad ten days' leave of absence, and 
arrived at Darmstadt on the 21st of March. The parents of the 
Prince had gone to meet him and his brother William a few stations 
beyond Darmstadt, whilst the Princess Alice awaited her husband at 
the Darmstadt railway station. The joy and thankfulness of that 
meeting can well be imagined. Darmstadt was gayly decorated in 
honor of tne Prince's return; and he met with an enthusiastic re- 
ception. 

Prince and Princess Louis were present at Berlin on the 16th of 
June at the triumphal entrj" of the German troops on the conclusion 
of the peace. On the 21st of June the Prince entered Darmstadt at 
the head of his Hessian division. In spite of pouring rain, the town 
presented a most festive appearance. Later on the Ptince and 
Princess and their children went to Seeheim (near Darmstadt), where 
her brother. Prince Alfred, visited them on his return from his three 
years' voj'^age round the world. The Prince and Princess of Wales 
also paid their sister a visit ; and Prince and Princess Louis saw 
much of their Russian relations, who were then staying at Jugen- 
heim. 

In August the family went to the seaside at Blankenberghe, where 



140 ALICE, GRA.KD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

they spent three weeks, and afterward went to London. They 
arrived at Balmoral on the 13th of September, on a visit to the 
Queen, whom they found sufferiug severely. They stayed with her 
till the 1st of November, but the children, who had caught the 
whooping cough, were sent to London sooner. Whilst at Sandring- 
ham, to which the Prince and Princess went on their way back from 
Balmoral, in the middle of November, the Prince of Wales was 
taken ill. Prince Louis had to return to Darmstadt, but the Princess 
remained in England, and shared the anxieties of the very danger- 
ous and protracted illness of her brother, whom she helped to nurse. 
It was the same terrible fever (typhoid) which, ten years before, had 
ended the life of the beloved Prince Consort, and it was so severe 
that the worst was feared. Prince Louis returned to England on 
the very day when the danger was greatest, but he was also able to 
share in the joy and thankfulness when improvement set in upon the 
14th of December. He remained over Christmas, and returned to 
Darmstadt before the year was at an end. 



Darmstadt: January?. 
... In England people are, I fear, becoming unjust toward 
the German troops. Such a long and bloody war must demoralize 
the best army ; and I only say, in such a position how would the 
French have behaved? ..Many French officers say the same, and 
how greatly they respect the German soldier. Hundreds of French 
officers and two generals have broken their word of honor, and run 
away. 1 doubt, whether one in the Gern'^an army would do such a 
thing. The French peasants, often women, murder our soldiers in 
their beds, and the wouadea they have used too horribly many a 
time. Is it a wonder, then, when the men let a feeling of revenge 
lay hold of them? A guerilla war is al way horrid, and no words 
can say how all Germans feel and deplore the present phase of the 
war! I hope and trust that the end may not be far distant. 

One of the poor wounded soldiers whom I gave your cape to is 
dying, and the poor boy won't part from it for an instant, and holds 
it tight round himself. 

Louis continues at Orleans, where they have intrenched them- 
selves, and await with impatience news from Paris which must be 
of great influence for the continuation or ending of the war. 

My days tly past. The children take much of my time — so, loo, 
the house, my two wounded in the house, and the hospitals, to one 
of which 1 go daily. 

Darmst9,clt : January 14. 
. , . How kind of you to work something for Louis; he will 
wear it with such pleasure. Prince Frederick Carl's recent vic- 
tories * and the fresh hosts of prisoners must help to bring the war 
to an end. Germany does not wish to go on, but the French won't 
see that they are beaten, and they will have to accept the visitors, 
who must increase in numbers the longer the French refuse to 
acceded to the German demands. 

I am so low, so deeply grieved for the misery entailed on both. 

* On the 10th, 11th, and 12th of January, 1871, before Le Mans. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. Ill 

-Sides, and feel for the French so much. Our troops do not pillage 
in the way described in English papers. 1 have read far worse 
accounts of what the French soldiers and francs-tireurs do in their 
French villages. 

The poor soldier who had your cape is dead. He died with it 
round him. I was Mrith him in the afternoon, and he had tears in 
Ills eyes, and was very low. In the night he died. This mornmg 
1 was at the station to give things to the wounded and sick who 
came through— a sorry sight. This afternoon 1 am going to a poor 
soldier's widow who has just had twins. The distress on all sides 
is great. 1 help where 1 can. Becker tears his hair. The two 
wounded in the house cost so much. So does everything else: but 
as long as I can, through sparing on myself, help others, I must do 
it — though I have, as things are now, notli ing left. 

I will get a head of Ernest done for your bracelet, and another 
one, so that you may have something; else of him. He is a mag- 
nificent boy, but so huge — such limbs! The Baby is not at all small, 
but near Ernest all the others look small. 

He can't speak properly yet, but he understands everything, and 
has a wonderful ear for music. He sings the " Guten Kameraden " 
without a fault in the time, and is passionately fond of dancing, 
which he also does in time. 

Ir^ne is growing fast also, but the two eldest are quite big girls; 
it makes me feel old when I see them growing up to me so fast. 
Victoria has a very inquiring mind, and is studious, and learns 
easily and well. Since the middle of December I have been with- 
out a governess. 

To morrow 1 go to Mayence to see poor Woldemar * Holstein's 
sister. He is very bad, to the grief of all Mayence, and of all who 
know him. 

Darmstadt: January 16. 

... It is pouring and thawing — most dismal — and my 
thoughts are with our dear ones and our poor troops far away. 
Becker lost his brother-in-law, who leaves a wife (JMatilda Becker's 
sister) and four little children. Each day fresh losses. 

My little Baby ought to be christened, but Louis and mj'- parents- 
in-law always hope that the end of hostilities is near, and that Louis 
can then get leave. Baby's blue eyes are beginning to turn, and 
look almost as if they would be brown. Should dear Grandmamma's 
and Grandpapa's eyes come lip again amongst some of the grand- 
children, how nice it would be! 

1 have but little news to give. 1 go about to the poor soldiers' 
widows and wives — no end of them, with new-born babies, in the 
greatest distress. 

Yesterday 1 saw the mother of the poor young soldier who died. 
She keeps your cape as a precious relic, as it had given him such 
great pleasure. 

January 30. 
Your charming photograph and kind letter arrived this morning 
— thousand thanks for bolh ! How like the photograph, and how- 
pleasing! 1 am so glad to have it. 

* Prince Henry Charles Woldemar of Schleswig-Holstein, Governor of the 
fortress of Mayence. He died on the 20th of January, 1871. 



142 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

The armistice and capitulation of Paris are great events. The 
people are out of their minds with joy — flags all over the town, and 
the streets crowded. 

1 forgot to say in my last letter how grieved 1 was about Beaty 
Durham's* death. It is quite shocking! and those numbers of 
children in so short a time. 1 earnestly hope none of us run such a. 

, chance, for on the whole our children have nol been so close to- 
gether. My last came sooner than 1 wished, and is smaller than his 
brother, but 1 hope now for a long rest. 1 have Baby fed, besides, 

' so as not to try ray strength. He is very healthy and stronar, and is 
more like Victoria and my brothers and sisters than my other chil- 
dren, and his eyes remind me of Uncle Ernest's, and seem turning 

' brown, which would be very pretty, as he is very fair otherwise. 

Your pretty photograph is standing before me, and makes me quite 
absent. 1 catch myself continually staring at it, instead of writing 
my letters. 

Darmstadt, February 2. 
. . . All the many French here are pleased at the capitulation, 
of Paris, and hope that peace is certain. Louis writes to me that 
the inhabitants of Orleans were equally pleased, and consider the 
war over. 1 earnestly pray it may be so. How greatly relieved and 
thankful all Germany would be! 

Louis telegraphed to-day. He has no leave as yet, though he 
hopes for it, Now that there is a prospect of peace, and that the 
fighting is momentarily over, 1 feel quite a collapse of my nerves, 
■ after the strain that has been on them for six whole months. 1 can 
scarcely imagine what it will be when my beloved Louis is at home 
again; it seems too great a joy! Rest and quiet together are what 1 
long for; and 1 fear in the first weeks he will have so much to do, 
and there will be much going on. 

He speaks with the greatest hope of going to Scotland this autumn ;^ 
and, if we are spared to do so, it will be such a rest, and do good to 
our healths, which must feel the wear and tear sooner or later. 

February 11. 
Many thanks for your last kind letter. I thought so much of 
you yesterday, spending the dear lOth for the first time again at 
Windsor. To-day our little son is to be christened, but only the 
family will be present, and my ladies and two wounded gentlemen, 
who can get about on crutches now. .When 1 think that the one 
owes his life to being here, it always gives me pleasure. 

To night ago 1 was awakened by a dreadful noise, the whole house 
and my bed rocking from it; and twice again, though less violently. 
It was an earthquake, and 1 think too unpleasant. It frightens one 
so ; the doors and windows rattle and shake. To-night two slight 
shocks, and one during the day yesterday. 

How I shall miss dear Louis to-day! The seven months will be 
round ere we meet, I fear, and he has never seen his dear little boy. 
It always makes me sad to look at him, though now 1 have every 
reason to hope — please God — that I shall have the joy of seeing 
Louis come home, and of placing his baby in his arms. My heart is 

* Daughter of tlie Duke of Abercorn. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. • 143 

full, as you can fancy,. and, much as I long to see Louis, I almost 
dread the moment — the emotion will be so great, and the long pent- 
■up feelings will find vent. 

I pray that peace may be restored, and that I may not live to see 
MLch a war again, or to see my sons have to go to it. 

I will tell Christa to wrile an account to you of the christening, 
■for Leopold to see also, as he will be godfather. Frederic William 
Augustus (after the Empress) Victor (victory) Louis will be hia 
names. Fritz and Vicky, the Empress and Fritz Carl, are god- 
parents. 

Darmstadt : February 14. 
My bad eyes must again excuse the shortness of these lines, 
which are to thank you many times for j^our last dear letter. 

Christa will have sent you the account of little Fritz's christening, 
■which was a sad day for me, and will have been so for dear Louis 
likewise. We have added dear Leopold's name to the others, as his 
sad life, and the anxiety his health has so often caused us all, endear 
him particularly, and we hoped it would give him pleasure, dear 
boy. 

The elections in the provinces are ail for peace, and only the 
towns for war and a republic. This week is one of intense and anx- 
ious expectation; though the greater portion believe in the restora- 
tion of peace, yet we have no security for it. 

March 6. 
. . . Now dear Louise's marriage draws near, how much you 
must feel it! I think so much of her, of your and of my dear home. 
I trust she will be very happy, which with such an amiable young 
man she must be. 

Louis has received the Order " Pour le merite," which 1 am so 
■glad of for him. The Emperor telegraphed the announcement to 
my motherin-law, with many complimentary words about her sons. 
To have the three sons safe is something to be thankful for, for they 
were much and continually exposed. 1 know nothing of Louis' 
coming. The troops march home, and it will take at least six 
weeks. I hope so much that he may have leave for a fortnight, and 
then return to the troops, to lead them home. 

To-night are the peace illuminations here, which will be very 
pretty. Our house will also be illuminated, and I take the two eld- 
est girls out with me to-night and see it all. It is a thing for them 
iiever to forget, this great and glorious, though too horrid, war. 

March 13. 
I know nothing as yet of Louis' return. 1 fear 1 must wait a few 
weeks lunger. On Wednesday the Emperor, Fritz, and some of the 
Princes pass through Frankfort, and 1 am going there with my par- 
ents-in-law to see them. 

TJie Paris news is not very edifying, and I fear France has not 
seen the worst yet, for there seems to be a fearful state of anarchy 
there. 

I have no news to give, save that Frittie has his first tooth. Ho 
is between Victoria and Irfine, but not like Ernie — not near so big, 
which is really not necessary. I think he is the sort of baby you 
jidmire. 1 go on looking after my hospitals, and now the trains, full 



144 . ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

of Landwelir returning home cheering and singing, begin to pass.. 
JSTow good-by, darling Mamma. I am in thought daily with you: 
during these days, and only wish it had been in my power to be of 
any use or comfort to you just now. 

Darmstadt : April 8. 
, , . We had the pleasure of catching a glimpse of Louise and 
Lome on their way through, but their stay was too short to be able 
to say more than a few words'. They can scarcely help passing 
through here, as they can't go through France, on their way back; 
and if you would allow them quite incognito on their waj^ back to 
pase a day here, it would give both Louise and me the greatest 
pleasure, and entail no other visits. 

The Emperor who kindly gave Louise leave, prolonged it till 
Honday, when he leaves, and for how long is quite undecided. If 
1 could only gp with him! Marie of Saxony has joined George: so 
has Carola [the Crown Princess ot Saxony] her husband ; but our 
division, which is near Chaumont, is in too bad and close quarters 
to admit of my living there. . , . ^ 

Should Louise have to remain very long, I still hope to rejoin 
Jiim — 1 don't care about the little discomfort. 

The new governess, Frl. Kitz, comes on Thursday. She is not 
young, but pleasing-looking — said to be very amiable, and a good 
governess; has been for eighteen years in England, first with Lady 
Palk, and then for ten years with Herr Kleinwart — a rich Germart 
banker In London — v?here she brought up' the two daughters. 

Darmstadt: April 13. 
... Ernie's kilt was sent him by Mr. Mitchell.* He admired 
Ernie so much at Berlin, that he said he would send him a Scotch 
dress, and 1 could not refuse. It is rather small as it is, and I hope 
that you will still give him one, as from his Grandmamma it would 
be doubly valuable. 

Louis has arrived safely at his destination — Donjeux; and we 
both feel the separation very much after having had the happiness 
of being together again.~ 

The Paris battles are too dreadful, and the end seems some way \ 
off yet. 

May 27. 
My thoughts cannot leave unfortunate Paris! "What horrors, and 
enacted so close by in the center of the civilized world! It seems iur 
credible ; and what a lesson for those who wish to learn by it ! 

, Darmstadt : June 8.. 

Louise and Lome are just gone, and it rains and blows, and is 
dreadful. Their visit was so pleasant, so gemiitJilich, and I think. 
Louise looks well and happy. She had much to tell of their journey, 
which seems to have been very interesting. I could show them 
almost nothing, as the weather was so bad. We three went yester- 
day, evening to my parents-in-law, who were most kind to them, ai?> 
they always are to all my relations. 

* The late Mr. John Mitchell, the librarian of Old Bond Street. 



ALICE;, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 145 

Their short stay was a great great pleasure, to me, so cut off from 
home as 1 hate been since three long years. 

Louis will be here in a few days, and we go together to Berlin for 
four days; Louis insists on my accompanying him. On the 24th 
the entry of the troops will be here. 

Seehelm: June 14. 
. . . tara SO glad that the«poor Emperor and Empress are so> 
kindly treated. They deserve to be well used by England, for the 
Emperor did so much to bring Prance and England together. How 
shamefully the French treat them, and speak of them, is not to be 
told; for the French consider themselves blameless, and always be- • 
trayed by others, whom they had made almost Iheir gods of, as long 
as all went well. 

Dear Frittie is getting better — principally his looks, but the illness 
is not overcome yet. 1 have been so anxious about him. The coun- 
try here is more beautiful than ever, and country air and flowers are 
a great enjoyment. Every little walk is up and down hill, little 
brooks, rocks, small green valleys, fine woods, &c. I have not lived 
here since 1865, when Ella was a baby. The children are beside 
themselves with pleasure at the pretty country and the scrambling 
walks, but above all at the wild flowers, in which they are getting 
quite learned. 1 find them in a book for them, and even Ernie 
knows some names, and never calls them wrong. All my children 
are great lovers of nature, and 1 develop this as much as I can. It 
makes life so rich, and they can never feel dull anywhere, if they 
know to seek and find around them the thousand beauties and won- 
ders of nature. They are very happy and contented, and always see, 
the less people have the less they want, and the greater is the enjoy- 
ment of that which they have. 1 bring my children up as simply 
and with as few wants as 1 can, and, above all, teach them to help 
themselves and others, so as to become independent. 

Darmstadt : June 20. 
1 write at the dinner-table, whilst the children finish dinner, as 1 
have not found a spare moment yet, and the rest of my afternoon is 
taken up with the preparations for to-morrow. 

The Empress Augusta has just been here for three hours, quite 
dead-tired with all shQ wont through. 

Thousand thanks for your dear letter received before our depart- 
ure from Potsdam ! Our journey was dreadful. We left in the even- 
ing, and were to have been here at 11 a.m., and through the irregu- 
larity of the trains we only got here at four in the afternoon. 1 am 
quite done up. The fatigues at Berlin were incessant. Anything: 
more grand, more imposing or touching and erhebencl [elevating] 
than the entry of the troops in Berlin I never saw. It was a wonder- 
ful sight to drive for three quarters of an hour through rows of 
French cannon! The decorations were so artistic, so handsome, 
and the enthusiasm of the dense crowds quite enormous. I am glad, 
to have been there; it will be a thing to recollect. The old Em- 
peror, surroimded by the many princes and by his great generals, 
looked so noble riding at the head of his glorious troops. Deputa- 
tions of all the German troops were there. 



146 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS ^OF HESSE. 

It was very hot, and we had to drive every day to Berlin, and 
back in the evening. 

Alas J it is rainy here, and the town is so beautifully decorated; 
three large triumphal arches, and the houses covered with garlands 
and flags. 

1 found the dear children well, though rather pale from the heal. 

Louis left again this morning, but after to-morrow remains here 
for good, which will indeed be a pleasure after such endless separa- 
tions, 

Darmstadt : June 27. 
, . . To-day Aunt Marie of Russia and her children were here. 
Aunt Marie looks thinner than ever, but well ; and Marie dear and 
nice, with such a kind fresh face, so simple and girlish. She gives 
her brothers music lessons during the journey, which she is very 
proud of. She is very fond of children, and of a quiet country life 
— that is the ideal she looks for. The Emperor of Russia comes here 
on the 5th, to join Aunt Marie at Petersthal. Louis' work is inces- 
sant — the selling off of horses, the changing garrisons of the regi- 
ments, the new formation of our division, causes almost more work 
than the Mohilmadiung [mobilization]. The entry was very beauti- 
ful: the decorations of the town most tasteful; not a house or the 
smallest street which was not covered with garlands, flags, and em- 
Tblems. There were large groups of the captured guns, and the 
names of the battles on shields around. Unfortunately, it poured 
nearly all the time, and we were quite drenched. I had the five chil- 
dren in my carriage, and Irene gave wreaths to her godfathers of 
the cavalry brigade. Two days ago we had a large military dinner, 
and have several soriees <~>f that sort to give before we can go into 
the country, which 1 am longing for. We shall probably go lo See- 
lieim, as the summer seems too damp for Kranichstein, 

The middle of August we shall go to Blankenberghe, near Ostend, 
as the doctors wish sea-bathing for Louis, and sea air for me and 
for some of the children, which is very necessary to set us up before 
going to Scotland. We want to remain one or two days and one 
night in London. We require a few things, which make a stay nec- 
essary. If we might be at Bahnoral on the 10th, as Louis' birthday 
is on the 12th, would that suit you? 

Please let me know in time if you think our plans good. This 
will enable us to settle when to go to Blankenberghe, as we can't 
be there longer than three weeks. 

How 1 look forward to seeing you again, and to come home once 
more! It is so kind of you to let us bring the children. The arrange- 
ment of the rooms will do perfectly, and we don't care how we 
are put up, and above all things don't wish to he in the way. 

The weather is horrid — rain and wind incessantly — after having 
been tremendously hot. These sudden changes upset everyone, and 
Frittie has had a very slight return of his ilbaess, 

August 13. 

. . . The newest news is, that my nice excellent Marie Grancy 

5s going to marry. She will be such a loss to me. These last years 

she has been so useful, so amiable, and 1 shall miss her dreadiully. 

She is going to marry Major von Hesse, who was with us in England 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OE HESSE. 147 

the last time, and the weddino; is to be in September. As lie bus been 
ill in consequence of the war, they will go to Italy and spend the 
winter there. 

We leave at eight to-morrow morning, reach Cologne at one 
o'clock, and wait there till ten in the evening, when we continue 
our journey and reach Blankenberghe at eight next morning. Will 
you kindly send a gentleman to Gravesend, who can remain with us 
in London, as we are quite alone? 

Uncle George, Aunt Cambridge, and Mary dined with us at 
Frankfort two days ago. Mary I had not seen for three years; she 
was looking very handsome. 

Blankenberghe : August 17. 
Only two words to say that we arrived safe and well here yes- 
terday after a very hot journey. The hotel is on the beach, where 
we sit all day; there are no walks or anything save the beach, and 
no trees. Our rooms are very small and not very clean; but the 
heavenly sea air and the wind refresh one, and the sands are very 
long. One can ride on donkeys, which enchants young and old chil- 
dren. Everyone bathes together, and one has to take a little run 
before the waves cover one. We bathed with the three girls this 
morning, but 1 felt quite shy, for all the people sit round and look 
on, and there are great numbers of people here. Our children play 
about with others and dig in the sand. Friltie sleeps so well since 
he has been here; his color is beginning to return. 

We have one small sitting-room, which is our dining-room, and 
Louis' dressing-room. 

1 was so sad and upset at taking leave of my dear Marie Grancy 
the other day; a kind true friend and companion has she been to me 
these nine years, and during the war she was quite invaluable to me. 
1 hope she will be as happy as she deserves to be. 

Buckingham Palace : September 10. 
The pleasure of seeing your dear handwriting again has been so 
great ! Thank God that you are going on well. I do feel so much 
for you, and for all you have had to suffer in every way! 1 trust 
entire quiet and rest of mind and body, and any little attention that 
1 may be able to offer for your comfort, will make the autumn of 
real benefit for your health. How I do look forward to seeing you 
again, 1 can't say. . . . 

We propose leaving the evening of the 13th. Bertie and Uncle 
George have arranged for our going to Aldershot on Monday and 
'Tuesday, which interests Louis above all things, and 1 fancied this 
arrangement would suit you best. 

The journey has quite cured Frittie, without any medicine, and 

■ the heat is over. 

... I took Victoria and Ella to the Exhibition, and what en- 
chanted Ella most was a policeman, who was, as she said, " so very 

■ kind " in keeping the crowd oft". It reminded me of " Susy Pusy," 
which dear Papa used to tease me with as a child. 

We dined and lunched with Berlie, who had only just arrived, 
and is gone again. Dear Arthur of course 1 have not seen. 



148 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Bram's Hill Park Camp, Cavalry Brigade, 2nd Division : 

September 12. 

In Bertie's tent 1 write these few lines to thank you in Louis' 
name and my own a thousand times for your dear kind letter. 
Every loving word is so precious to us, and the presents you so 
kindly gave Louis enchanted him. The pin, unfortunately, did not 
arrive. 

How I regret each time 1 hear you speak of your illness! I have 
been so anxious about you. Uncle Louis and my parents-in-law, in 
their telegram of to-day, inquire after you. 

We have had two such interesting days ; the country too lovely, 
each day in a quite diflerent part. We accompanied Uncle George, 
and in tliis way have seen the two Divisions, and through sleeping 
here will be enabled to see the third Division to-morrow before re- 
turning to town. 

1 saw dear Arthur yesterday. He rode with me all the lime, and 
to-day we met him marching with his company. How 1 have en- 
joyed seeing your splendid troops again, I can't tell you; but I shall 
reserve all news till we meet. 

Louis thanks you again and again for your kindness, and only re- 
grets not having seen you himself, but, is very grateful that we were 
allowed to stay a few days at Buckingham Palace, through which 
we were enabled to come here, which to him as a soldier is of the 
very greatest interest. Bertie is full of his work, and 1 think it in- 
terests him immensely. He has charming officers about him, to help 
and show him what to do. To our great disappointment we did not 
see the 42nd Highlanders, the " Black Watch," to-day; but yester- 
day we saw the Argyleshire 91st Highlanders, who gave Louise the 
present. Bertie lent me a charming little horse, but the ground is 
dreadful, and not having ridden for so long, and being on horseback 
so many hours, makes me feel quite stiff. 

Dunrobin Castle, Sutherland : October 19. 
1 wish your telegram had brought me better news of you. 1 
really can't bear to think of you suffering, and so much alone. 1 
feel it quite wrong to have left you, and my thoughts and wishes 
are continually with you, and distract iny aftention from all 1 see 
here. I can't tell you how much 1 feel for you at being so helpless. 
It is such a trial to anyone so active as yourself; but your trial must 
be drawing to a close, and you will be rewarded in the end, 1 am 
sure, by feeling perhaps even better and stronger than you did be- 
fore all youi troubles. 

1 was nearly sick in the train, which is the slowest 1 was ever in 
in my life, and was unable to go to dinner; but a long walk by the, 
sea this morning has quite set me up in spite of the extraordinary 
warmth. 

Sandringham : November 9. 
It is the first time since eleven years that 1 have spent Bertie's 
birthday with him, and though we are only three of our own family to- 
gether, still that is better than nothing, and makes it seem more like 
birthday. Bertie and Alix are so kind, and give us so warm a wel- 
come, showing how they like having us, that it feels quite home. 
Indeed 1 pray earnestly that God's blessing may rest on him, and 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 149 

that he may be guided to do what is wise anff right, so that he may 
tide safely through the anxious ,times that are before him, and in 
which we now live. They are both charming hosts, and all the 
party suit well together. The Westminsters and Brownlows are 
here ; Lady B. is so very handsome. 

We joined the shooting party for luncheon, and the last beats out 
to-day and yesterday; and the weather is beautiful, though cold — a 
very Ijracing air, like Scotland. 



1872. 

The Princess did not return to Darmstadt with her children till 
tlie end of January, passing through Brussels on her way. Prince 
Louis was invested with the Order of the Black Eagle at the 
" Kronungs- und Ordenfest " at Berlin. Many of their relations vis- 
ited the Prince and Princess during the early part of the year. 

On the 6th of June another daughter was born, and* she was 
christened on the 1st of July, tbe anniversary of her parents' wed- 
ding-day. Her names were Victoria Alix Helena Louise Beatrice. 
The sponsors were the Prince and Princess of Wales, the Cesare- 
witch and Cesarewna, Princess Beatrice, the Duchess of Cambridge, 
and the Landgravine of Hesse. 

In August the Crown Prince of Prussia paid his first visit to Darm- 
stadt since the war, and met with a most loyal and hearty reception. 
, In consequence of the death of the Princess Hohenlohe-Langen- 
burg, the beloved half-sister of the Queen, in September, the Prince 
and Princess went to Baden to be present at the last sad ceremony, 
and to see their beloved aunt borne to her rest. 

A fortnight later the general assembly of the various German soci- 
eties for charitable purposes held its fii'st meeting at Darmstadt. 

All these societies, including the " Ladies' tJuion " founded by 
Princess Alice, had. in 1869, joined themselves together to form one 
great body. During the year 1872 the Princess added another In- 
stitution to those she had already called into existence — viz. an Or- 
phan Asjdum. A special committee of ladies were at the head of it, 
to watch over it, and also, if necessary, to advise and help those poor 
orphans who had been boarded out in private families at the expense 
of the parish. This institution has already proved most successful, 
thanks to the readiness with which the authorities met all Princess 
Alice's wishes. 

The general assembl J'' at Darmstadt — the " Frauentag " or "La- 
dies' Diet," as it was called — distinguished itself, not only by the 
extremely discreet and practical manner in which it carried out all 
the many different branches of business which it had undertalcen, 
but also bj^ the presence of several remarkable persons interested in 
its aims and objects, such as Madame Marie Simon, the founder and 
head of the Institution for Training Nurses at Dresden, and three 
English ladies. Miss Mary Carpenter, Miss Florence Hill, and Miss 
Wiukworth. 

The subjects treated of at the general assembly were the admis- 
sion of women to the Post Otfice and Telegraph Service; the lesults 
of the working of F. Frobel's principles for the further employment 



150 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

of women; of " Kindergarten;" the finding of proper localities for 
the exhibition and sale of women's handiwork of all kinds ; nursing 
as a branch of female industry; the provision of better schools for 
girls, and what had been done, and was doing, in England for fe- 
male education and at similar institutions in England. 

The Princess followed all the discussions with the keenest interest. 
She received all the members of the different societies at her owa 
palace, and for each she had a kind and encouraging word. ^ 

None of those present will ever forget the sympathy and encour- 
agement they met with from the Princess. She not only advised and 
suggested things, but herself took the initiative in any important 
question which came under her notice. The general assembly did 
great credit to itself in the eyes of Germany, and, indeed, of other 
countries as well, and its members were encouraged to still' further 
exertions. 

The Princess herself was full of new plans for further good 
works. At the beginning of November Prince and Princess Louis 
were present at the unveiling of a monument erected to the memoiy 
of the Hessian soldiers who fell in the war of 1870. The Princess 
herself placed some wreaths at its base. The 14th of December, the 
anniversary of the Prince Consort's death, the Princess spent with, 
her sister the Crown Princess of Prussia, who had come to Darm- 
stadt from Carlsruhe for the purpose. 



Darmstadt: January 21. 
. . . Louis returns to-morrow from Berlin. He was the first to 
be invested by the Emperor, and has met with great kindness. He 
was very glad to have been there with dear Arthur, who seems to 
please everyone. 

February 5. 

. . . It Is a great pleasure to have dear Arthur here. He is so 
amiable, civil, and nice, and takes interest in all he sees, and is so 
pleasant to have in the house. His visit will be very short, as he 
gives up two days to go to Baden. 

We gave small suppers on two evenings for Arthur, and yesterday 
evening a celebrated most excellent violinist playea quite as well as 
Joachim: a friend of his, and a piipil of Spohr's. "rhis afternoon, 
he is going to play some of Bach's celebrated sonatas with and to 
me. Artliur enjoys music very much, and keeps up his playing. 

There is a dance at Uncle Alexander's to-night, on AVednesday a 
Court ball, and on Friday one at my parents-in-law. 1 can't stand 
the heat at all of an evening, and the rooms are very hot. Louis, 
who has an awful cold, took Arthur to see the barracks, as all mili- 
tary things give him pleasure. 

It is heavenly sunny weather, having been quite dark and foggy 
all day yesterday. 

April 20. 

. . . Louis has been in Upper Hesse the last four days shooting 

AuerJidhne, but as yet unsuccessfully. My mother-in-law is very 

grateful for your kind message, and is better, though weak. She 

has liad a narrow escape from fever. 

Frittle has again endless bruises, with lumps, as Leo used to have; 



ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 151 

but lie is taking iron, as Sii* William [.Tenner] wished, and is strong 
and rosy and well otherwise. I trust he may outgrow this. 

June 17. 
Many thanks for your dear letter and kind wishes for the birth 
of our Baby*— a nice little thing, like Ella, only smaller and with 
finer features, though the nose promises to be long. . . . 

Kind Dr. Hofmeister was most attentive; and of course having 
him was far pleasanter than not, and we owe you great thanks for 
having sent him, Mrs. Clarke has been all one could wish. 

Louis wrote as soon as he could, but this last week he has only 
been home just before his dinner, and was so tired that he invariably 
fell asleep. He has gone out at six, returning at twelve, and has 
had to be out before four in the afternoon, returning at eight. He 
is away again to-day. Until the 15tli of September his duty will be 
important, and he has all the office work besides. It is double this 
year to what it usually is, as all people and things are new since the 
war. 

How sad the loss of those two poor children is, f and the sweet 
little " bairnie " of three! The unfortunate mother to lose two in 
so dreadful a way! 1 am sure it touched Beatrice much to see the 
poor little one; and in a child death so often loses everything that is 
painful. 

We think of calling our little girl " Alix " (Alice they pronounce 
too dreadfully in German) "Helena Louise Beatrice," and, if 
Beatrice may, we would much like to have her as godmother. 

Darmstadt: June 24. 
. . . We both felt so truly for you when we heard of dear Dr. 
Macleod's death, knowing what a kind and valued friend of yours 
lie was, and how fate seems to take one friend after another, and 
before age can claim its right. He indeed deserves his rest, for he 
did so much good in his life! 

1 feel rather weaker than usual this time, and sitting and walking, 
though only a tew steps, tries me a good deal. 1 was out for half 
^n hour yesterday, and I think the air will do me good. 

Louis left at half past five this morning, and will be back by 
■seven, 1 hope, this evening; to-morrow the same. 

1 will add Vicky's name to Baby's others, as you propose; and 
"Alix" we gave for "Alice," as they m.urder my name here: 
" Aliice " they pronounce it, so we thought " Alix " could not so 
easily be spoilt. 

Uncle Alexander is coming back shortly, and says the Empress is 
not to return to Russia this winter, and will be sent to Italy for the 
whole winter. 

The heat has been quite dreadful; there is a little air to-day, 
though. 

■* Princess Alix, born on the 6th of June. 

+ Two children who were carried away by a "spate," while playing at 
Mofcaltrie Burn, near Balmoral (lltli of June, 187-'), and swept into the river 
Dee and drowned. See More Leaves from a Journal of a Life in the High- 
lands. 



152 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OE HESSE. 

August 14. 

. . . Baby is like Ella, only smaller features, and still darker 
eyes with very black lashes, and reddish-brown hair. She is a sweet, 
merry little person, always laughing, with a deep dimple in one 
cheek just like Ernie. 

We are going to Frankfort to-day to give Uncle George and Fritz 
Strelitz a luncheon in our Palais there. Helena Renter comes to us 
for a month to-morrow as lady. 

I hope your Edinburgh visit will go oft well. You have never 
lived in Holyrood since 1861, have you? 

How 1 shall think of you at dear Balmoral, and this time capable 
of enjoying it — not like last time, when you had to suffer so much, 
and were unable to do anything. It quite spoiled our visit to see 
you an invalid. Remember me to all old friends there— to Brown's 
kind old mother, and any who ask after usj 

1 shall think of you on dear Grandmamma's birthday. She is 
nevei forgotten by any of us, and lives on as a dearly-cherished 
memory of all that was good and loving, and so kind. My children, 
have her picture in their room, and 1 often tell them of her. 

Kranichstein : August SO, 

I am very grateful for your telegrams from Edinburgh, and for 
Flora [MacDonald's] letter. It interests me so much to know what 
you did there, and 1 am very glad all went oft so well. The people 
will have been too delighted to have had you in their midst again, 
and 1 am sure you enjoyed the beauty of your fine northern capital 
anew after not having seen it for so long a time. Beatrice seems 
delighted with what she saw. I recollect those many interesting and 
beautiful spots so well.* 

The 18th was tjie anniversary of the dreadful battle of Gravelotte, 
which cost so many lives, to our division especially. We drove into 
town to the military church, which w^as full of officers and men, at 
half-past seven in the morning, and thought much of the f riendc and 
acquaintances in their distant graves, and of the desolate homes, 
until that day so bright. My heart felt too full when we were sing- 
ing Bin' feste Burg, and I had my husbanfl at my side whom the 
Almighty had graciously spared to my children and myself. Grati- 
tude seems barely enough to express the intense depth of what 1 feci 
when I think of that time, and how again and again 1 long to givo 
all and all to my good dear Louis and to our children, for he is all 
that is good and true and pure. 

. . . The children were much distressed at the sad fate of my poor- 
little bullfinch, who piped beautifully. Louis had caught an owl 
and put it in a wooden sort of cage in the room where my bird was. 
In the night it broke the bars and got loose and tore the bullfinch's 
tail out, and the poor little thing died in consequence. 

Of our quiet country life there is little to tell. We are a good 
deal out always with our little people, their pets — dogs, cats, ponies, 
donkeys; it is rathei like a menagerie. 

* For au account of this visit see More Leaves from a Journal.. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 153 

Schloss Kranichstein : September 17. 
... On Sundaj' the Moriers with their children were with us 
for the day. He loolced so wliite and reduced, walks on crutches, 
but retains, as always, his spirits and his lively interest for all 
things. He is a kind, i;^ arm-hearted man, to whom we are both 
attached. Alice feels the loss of her poor sister deeply, and says her 
father has been so cut up about it. 

We took them to races close by, and feared we should be upset, 
the ground being very heavy and uneven, and I was in terror for 
Mr. Morier, who was in my carriage. 

On the 9th there is a large meeting here of the different associations 
existing throughout Germany for the bettering of women's education 
and social position (of the middle class especially with regard to 
trade). Some English ladies are coming, some Swiss and Dutch. 
It will last four days, and be very fatiguing. The programme I 
arranged with my two committees here and the gentlemen at Berlin, 
and they wanted to force me to preside; but for so large an 
assemblage— to me nearly all strangers — 1 positively refused. 1 do 
that in my own Associations, but not where there are so many 
strangers, w^ho all want to talk, and all to cross purposes. It is diffi- 
cult enough to keep one's own people in order when they disagree. 
1 hope and trust 1 have prevented all exaggerated and unfeminine 
views being brought up, which to me are dreadful. These 
Associations, if not reasonably led, tend too easily to the ridiculous. 
3Iy Associations take a great deal of my time and thought, and re- 
quire a good amount of study. 1 hope and trust that what we are 
doing here is the right thing. We have already had some satisfac- 
tory results in the class of Ihe workwomen, and in the reform of the 
schools ; but there are many open questions yet, which 1 hope this 
meeting, with others who work in the same field, may help us to 
solve. 

Will you look through the programme? It would please me so 
much, \i 1 thought you took a little interest in my endeavors here 
in a very small way to follow in a slight degi-ee part of dear Papa's 
great works for the good of others. 

The meeting at Berlin seems to have gone ofi: very well, and has 
pleased all Germans, who hope for a consolidation of peace — so nec- 
essary to them. 

We have an entire change of Ministry at Darmstadt, the first since 
1848, which fills all with hopes for an improvement in all the affairs 
of the Grand Duchy. 

Kranichstein: September 25. 

. . . All sympathize with you, and feel what a loss to j^ou 
darling Aunt * must be — how great the gap in your life, how pain- 
ful the absence of tnat sympathy and love which united her life and 
yours so closely. 

Darling, kind Mamma, 1 feel so acutely for you, that my thoughts 
are incessantly with you, and my prayers for comfort and support to 
be granted you in the heavy trial are warm indeed. You have borne 
80 many hard losses with courage and resignation, that for darling 

* The Queen's half-sister, Feodore, Princess of Hohenlohe-Langenburg, who 
died on the 23d of September, 1872, at Baden Baden. 



154 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE, 

Aunt's sake you will do so again, and knowing lier at rest and peace 
will in time reconcile j'ou to the loss — all the more as her passing 
from this world lo another was so touchingly peaceful. Dear 
Augusta [Stanley] wrote to me, which was a great consolation, and 
we intend going to Baden to pay our last token of respect and love.. 

Darmstadt : October 13. 
... A few words about our doings here may be of interest top 
you. The meeting -^^ent off well, was very large, the subjects dis- 
cussed to the purpose and important, and not one word of the eman- 
cipated political side of the question was touched upon by anyone. 
Schools (those of the lower, middle, and higher classes) for girls were- 
the principal theme; the employment of women for post and tele- 
graph offices, &c. ; the Improvement necessary in the education of. 
nursery- maids, and the knowledge of mothers in the treatment of 
little children; Ihe question of nurses and nursing institutes. 

The committees of the fifteen Associations met Wednesday after- 
noon, and in the evening thirteen of the members came to us to 
supper. 

The public meeting on the following day lasted from nine to twa 
with a small interruption; a committee meeting in the afternoon; 
and that evening all the members and guests came to us — nearly- 
fifty in number The following day the meetings lasted even 
longer, and the English ladies were kind enough to speak— only 
think, old Miss Carpenter on all relating, to women's work in Eng- 
land (she is our guest here). Her account of the Queen's Institute at 
Dublin was most interesting. Miss Hill (also our guest), about the 
boarding-out system for orphans. Miss C. Winkworlh, about higher 
education in England. She mentioned also the new institution to- 
which Louise now belongs, and is a member of it, herself. The 
ladies all spoke very well; the German ones remarkably so. 

There was a good deal of work to finish afterward, and a good 
many members to see. They came from all parts of Germany — 
many kind-hearted, noble, self-denying women. The presence of 
the English ladies — above all, of one such as Miss Carpenter, wha 
has done such good works for the reformatin of convicts — areatly 
enhanced the importance of the meeting, and her great experience 
has been of value to us all. She means still to give a lecture on 
India and the state of the native schools there, before leaving us. 

I have still so much work in hand, that 1 fear my le/.ter is hurried 
and ill -written, but 1 hope you will kindly excuse this. 

To- morrow I am taking Miss Carpenter to all our different schools, 
that she may see how the different systems in use work. Some are 
good, but none particularly so; there is much to improve. 

Louis is gone to Mayence to-day for the inauguration of the 
Memorial which the town has erected to the memory of dear excel- 
lent Waldemar Holstein, for so many years its beloved Governor. 

Darmstadt: October 24. 
You must indeed miss dear Aunt much, and feel your thoughts 
drawn to her, whose precious intercourse was such a solace and 
comfort to you. It is nice for you to have Louise a little to your- 
self. . . . 



ALICE, GEANP DUCHESS OP HESSE. 155 

You ask if my mother-in-law talks with me about the different 
woman's work in which 1 am interested. Of course she do< s. W"e 
are so intimate together, that even where we difter in opinion we yet 
talk of everything freely, and her opinion is of the greatest value to 
me. She has ever been a most Idud, true, and loving mother, 
whom I respect and love more and more. She was much pleased 
and interested in the 'success of the meeting, but is of course as 
averse as myself to all extreme views on such subjects. 

1 have joined to my Nursing Institute an Association for watching 
over the orphans who are boarded out by the State into families, 
where some poor children are unhappy and ill-used. The use of 
such meetings as this one was consists mainly in the interchange of 
experience made in the different branches in other places, which it 
is impossible to carrj^ on by correspondence. 

The schools are entirely different throughout Germany — good and 
indifferent; and those here do not count among the best, as every- 
thing,. through the long misrule of the late Government, is not what 
it ought to be. 

Uncle Louis has a new Ministry now, which, gives everyone cause 
for hope. 

Darmstadt : November 3. 

. . . The weather is awful here-, the wind sounds in the house 
as if one were at sea. 

This article was sent me the other day, and though I half fear 
seeming mibescJieiden [overbold], yet, as you spoke of your feelings 
about women's meetings the other day, 1 venture to send it. 

Ella is writing to you herself to thank you for the lovely bracelet, 
■which gave me as much pleasure as it did her. To think that she 
is already eight! She is handsomer than she was, and a dear 
child. . . , They all give me pleasure, dear children, though of 
■course they have as many faults as others; but they are truthful and 
contented, and veiy affectionate. Having them much with me, watch- 
ing and guiding their education — which, through our quiet and reg- 
ular life, is possible — 1 am able to know and understand their differ- 
ent characters, for not one is like the other. 

Darmstadt : November 13. 

. . . We have the same weather here which you seein to have, 
which for our long journey was not pleasant. We took nearly 
twelve hours going, and as much returning from Metz. For the 
inauguration itself the weather held up. The roads were dreadful, 
and the wide plateau looked dreary and sad — dotted all over with 
^graves, like an enormous churchyard 

The Memorial is a dead lion in bronze, on a plain pedestal, bear- 
ing an inscription on black marble in front, and at the back all the 
names. Deputations of officers and men were present, beside the 
generals, &c., from Metz. The clergyman of the dvision read 
prayers, preached a short and touching sermon, and the band played 
a chorale. Louis spoke a few words, ending with the usual ' ' Hoch ' ' 
for the Emperor and Grand Duke. I thenl aids ome wreaths at the 
ioot of the Memorial from Louis' parents and ourselves, and we 
drove back to Metz across the different battlefields. The villages 



156 ALICE, GKAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

are all built up again and reinhabited, so that few traces of the 
dreadful struggle remain. 

. , , The Empress of Russia wrote the other (Jay that the alliance 
withiviarie* of Mecklenburg is quite impossible, as she won't change 
her religion. 1 hope all other German Princesses will follow her 
example. 

Darmstadt ; December 13. 

Tor the 14th 1 write a few words. From year to year they can 
but express the same; the grief at the loss of such a father, such a 
man, grows with me, and leaves a gap and a want that nothing ou 
earth can ever fill up. 

The deep, intense sympathy for what you, my poor dear Mamma, 
went through then and since, in consequence of your bereavement, 
remains as vivid as ever. God heard our prayers, and sustained 
you, and through the healing hand of time softened your grief, and 
retained you for us, who were too young and too numerous to stand 
alone 

That our good sweet Alix should have been spared this terrible 
grief, when this time last year it seemed so eminent, fills my heart 
with gratitude for her dear sake, as for yours, his children, and ours. 
That time is as indeliblj'^ fixed on my memory as that of 1861, when 
the witnessing of your grief rent my heart so deeply. The 14th will 
now be a day of mixed recollections and feelings to us — a day hal- 
lowed in our family, when one great spirit ended his work on earth 
•^though his work can never die, and generations will grow, up and 
call his name blessed:— and when another was left to fulfill his duty 
and mission, God grant, for the welfare of his own family and of 
thousands !f 

I have not time to write to dearest Bertie and Alix to-day; and as 
1 love to think of them with you on the 14th, so 1 would ask you to 
let them share these lines full of sympathy for them, letting a re- 
membrance of me, who suffered with them, mingle with your united 
prayers and thanks on this solemn day ! 

My little Fritz is at length better, but white and thin, in conse- 
quence of his illness 

Christmas Day. 

Your dear presents gave me so much pleasure; 1 thank you 
again and again for them. The precious souvenir of dear Aunt, and 
my Ernie's picture delight me 1 assure you, nothing has given me 
more pleasure this Christmas. 

Let me also thank you, in Louis' and the children's names (mean- 
while, until they do so themselves), for your kind gifts to them. It 
makes us all so happy and grateful, to be always so kindly remem- 
bered. 

The boys were well enough . to enjoy Christmas, though rather 
pale and pulled — above all, sweet Ernie. 

We gave all our servants presents — the whole household and stable 

* Daughter of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin. Subsequently 
she did marry the Grand Duke Vladimir of Russia, as she was allowed not to 
change her religion. This was the first time such a thing was permitted ia 
Russia. 

t Who would have thought that only six years later the Princess herself was 
to rejoin her father on the same day? 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 157 

— under the Cliristmas-lree, which we made for the children; and 
when the tree is divided, the children of all our servants come and 
share it with ours. It keeps the household as a family, which is so 
important. We have fifty people to give to! 

Dear Beatrice's wishes (cards) pleased the children very much, 
but Frittie lamented for a letter from Auntie " for Frittie. " He 
talks quite well now. 

On Saturday we shall go for the day to Vicky, i don't like leav- 
ing the boys for longer yet. 1 am so glad Vicky gave such a flatter- 
ing account of Baby. She is quite the personification of her nick- 
name " Sunny " — much like Ella, but a smaller head, and livelier, 
with Ernie's dimple and expression. 



TRIALS. 

1873-1877. 

" May the hour of trial and grief bring its blessing with it, and not have 
come in vain ! The day passes so quickly, when one can do good and make 
others happy — and oneleaves always so much undone " (August 2nd, 1883). 

1873. 

This year began brightly and happily to the Prince and Princess, 
for little Prince Fritz, whose healtli had often given rise to serious 
anxiety, seemed stronger and better. In March the Princess at last 
was able to carry out "her long- cherished wish to visit Italy. She 
traveled incognito, accompanied by Miss Hardinge and Hofrath 
Ruland. The journey was made in a comparatively short time, but 
was thoroughly successful. The Princess traveled from Darmstadt 
by ]\luuich and the Brenner Pass to Florence, where she spent thiee 
d'aj's, and from there went straight on to Rome. 

During her stay in the " eternal city " she employed her morniags 
in visiting the many beautiful picture-galleries, the churches, and 
the ruins of ancient Rome. In the afternoons she made longer ex- 
cursions into the neighborhood, visiting the distant churches in the 
Campagna, as well as the celebrated villas of Albani, Ludovisi, 
Borghese, &c. She used to spend her evenings in talking over and 
discussing all the objects of interest she had seen during the day. 
The Princess with her wonderful power of observation was able to 
do a large amount of sightseeing in a comparatively short time. She 
was accompanied by Monsignore Howard (now Cardinal Howard) 
over St. Peter's; and he showed her many interesting parts of this 
glorious edifice, wliich in general are never shown to Protestants. 
At the " Farnesiua," the private palace of Count Bermiidez, she 
was received and conducted over it hy the Count hjinself. The 
ruins of Rome which interested the Princess most were those which 
dated from the time of the first Christians, as far back as the early 
mediaeval period, the catacombs of " San Callisto," and the curious 
church of "San Clemente." Amongst the ' ceremonies of the 
' ' Holy Week ' ' the Princess was greatly struck by ' ' Tne Lamenta- 
tions," whilst others made her ask, as all Protestants do, how the 



158 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

pure simple Christian religion could possibly be so misrepresented. 
After attending all the grand ceremonies of the Church of Rome, 
the quiet service at the German Embassy made a most happy and 
peaceful impression on tlie Princess. She visited the Pope Pius IX., 
who received her with his usual winning kindness.* She also went 
to the Quirinal to pay her respects to Kmg Victor Emanuel, and to 
the Crown Princess of Italy, Princess Margherita. The two Princesses 
drove together through Rome on the occasion of the celebration of 
its "birthday," and witnessed the illumination of the Capitol, Foum, 
and Colosseum. 

On the 13th of April the Princess made a brief excursion to Sor- 
rento by way of Naples, where her father-in-law and the Empress 
of Russia were staying. On the 24th of April she left her suite for 
Florence, tiavelmg by way of Perugia and Lake Thrasiuiene, 
through the valley of the Arno. As she had but little time, she 
was onlf able to visit the galleries of the Uffizi and Pitti Palaces, the 
tombs of the Medici in San Lorenzo, the Convent of St. Mark, the 
Cathedral, the Church of Santa Croce, and the " Muzeo Nazionale." 

The Pi incess left Italy on the 28th of April, reaching Darmstadt 
on the 2nd of May. 

Her journey had been one of thorough enjoyment, and she felt 
deeply grateful that she had at last been able to see with her own 
eyes tiiose glorious works of art, which from her childhood she had 
onlj^ been able to picture dimly to herself. 

The joy of her reunion with her family was, alas! not to be of 
long duration. Prince Louis had been obliged to leave Darmstadt 
early on the morning of the 29Lh of May to inspect the troops in 
Upper Hesse, leaving the Princess still iu bed, exhausted from the 
great fatigue of her Italian journey. The two little Princes came 
to wish her " good moi-ning," and by her wish were let in her room 
by the nurse. The children SQon began to play, as was their wont, 
running in and out of the room into the adjacent one, and looking 
from one window and then from another. Prince Ernest having run 
into the next room, the Princess followed him, leaving Prince Fritz 
in her bedroom. During her almost momentary absence he fell out 
of the window on to the stone terrace below. "Whether he had leaned 
too far out of it and overbalanced himself, or whether in running 
fast through the room to the window to look for his brother he could 
not stop himself and fell from it, no one actually knows. He was 
picked up insensible, and died a f . w hours afterward in the arms of 
his distracted mother. Effusion of blood on the brain caused by the 
fall ended that young and bright little life. The loss of this unusu- 
ally-gifted and beloved child was a blow to the mother from which 
she never recovered. Her married life had till then been such a 
happy one, that this first sorrow came on her with redoubled force. 

On the evening of Whitsunday, June 1, the beloved little Prince 
was taken to his last resting-place, at the Rosenhohe (the Grand 
Ducal Mausoleum), his parents and sisters and brother being pres- 
ent, it was very long before the Princess at all recovered from the 
terrible shock of the death of her child, though the sympathy shown 

* He said to the Princess, " La b6n6diction d'un vieillard fait toujours du 
bien." 



ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 159 

to her by her family and friends — indeed, by all — greatly comforted 
and helped lier. 

In the autumn the Prince and and Princess went to Heiden in 
Appenzell for a little change. From there they paid a visit to the 
Prince of Hohenzollern at his castle of the Weinburg. At the .end 
of November they went to England with their three youngest chil- 
dren, and remained there till the 23rd of December, when they re- 
turned to Darmstadt. 



Darmstadt: January 1^. 

, . . We were both much shocked to hear of the death of the 
Emperor Napoleon, and I must say grieved; personally he was so 
amiable, and she is much to be pitied. That he should die an exile 
in England, as Louis Philippe did, is most striking. In England 
the sympathy shown must touch the poor Empress, and, as i tele- 
graphed, we should be so grateful to you, if you would kindly be 
the medium tlirough which both of us would like to express to her 
how much we feel for her. How proud yon must ever be, in feel- 
ing that your country is the one always able to offer a home and hos- 
pitality for those driven away from their own countries! England 
is before all others in that ; and its warm sympathy for those who 
are in misfortune is such a generous feeling. 

Fanny Baillie's Victoria is such a nice girl. She comes to ours 
every Saturday, and is not above playing at dolls with them, though 
she is so much older. There are two rather nice little English gii'ls, 
daughters of the chaplain here, who come to them. 

February 1. 
If anyone will feel with us, 1 know you will do so most. Since 
three days, with an interruption of one day, poor Frittie has been 
bleeding incessantly from a slight cut on his ear, which was nearly 
healed. Since yesterday evening we cannot stop it. All the usual 
remedies were used, but as yet unavailing. Just now tlie place has 
been touched again with caustic, and tightly bound, after we had 
with great trouble got rid of the quantity of dried blood from his. 
hair, ear, neck, &c. He is horrified at the sight of so much blood, 
but shows gi'eat strength as yet in spite of so great a loss. 
He is of course very irritable, and, as he must not scream, one has 
to do whatever he wishes, which will spoil him dreadfully. 1 own 
1 was much upset when 1 saw that he had this tendency to bleed, 
and the anxiety for the future, even if he gets well over this, will 
remain for years to come. All have their trials, one or another, 
and, please God, we shall bear whatever is sent without complain- 
ing. To see one's own child suflter is for a mother a great trial. 
With what pleasure one would change places with the little one, and 
bear its pain ! 

February 6. 

... In the summer Fritz had a violent attack of dysentery, 

which was so prevalent at Darmstadt, and off and on for two 

months it continued, until Scotland stopped it ; and this illness made 

him sensitive and delicate. 

, . . What has caused him such great suffering has been that. 



160 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

what with the use of caustic, the tight bandaging and the iron, a 
quantity of small gatherings formed on his cheek and neck, causing 
such an amount of pain that he could not rem? in in bed or any- 
where quiet for the two first days and nights. Now they are drying 
off, the itching is such that he don't know what to do with himself, 
and we have the greatest difficulty in keeping him from rubbing or 
scratching himself. The want of sleep through pain, &c., has ex- 
cited him very much, so that he has been very difficult to manage. 
The bandages of course cannot be removed, and great care will be 
taken when they are removed, lest bleeding should recommence. 
He has been out twice a day as usual all along, and his skin never 
quite lost its pinkness and mottled appearance; all of which are signs 
that he has good blood and to spare, else he would look worse and 
have shown weakness, which after all he did not. . . . 

He speaks well for his age, and is, alas! very wild, so that it will 
be impossible to keep him from having accidents. . . . 

... 1 have been playing some lovely things (very difficult) of 
Ohopin lately, which 1 know you would admire. 

Darmstadt : February 19. 
My best thanks for your dear letter! That I forgot to thank you 
at once for dear Grandmamma's very beautiful print* came from 
my having the lithograph of that picture in my room always. before 
me, and, though the print far surpasses it, 1 am so fond of the litho- 
graph, that 1 forgot the print at the moment 1 was writing to you. 
Before that dear picture, the painting of which 1 recollect so well, 
my children often sit, and 1 tell them of her who was and ever will 
be so inexpressibly dear to us all. In the schoolroom, in my sitting- 
room, in the nursery, there is with the pictures of you and dear 
Papa always one of dear Grandmamma, and, in my room and the 
schoolroom, the Duke of Kent also. 

My sitting-room has only prints and lithographs, all "Winterhalters, 
of the family : you and Papa, your receiving the Sacrament at the 
Coronation, Raphael's Disputa and Belle Jardiniere, and the lovely 
little engraving of yourself from Winterhalter's picture in Papa's 
room at Windsor. f 

Vicky is coming here on Wednesday. The Grand Duke of Wei- 
mar has kindly allowed Mr. Ruland to join us as cicerone: which 
for galleries, &c., is very necessary, and we take no courier. Rome 
is our first halting-place in Italy, and for years it has been my dream 
and wish to be in that wonderful city, where the glorious monu- 
ments of antiquity and of the Middle Ages carry one back to those 
marvelous times. 

I am learning Italian, and studying the history and art necessary 
to enable me, in the short time we have, to see and understand the 
finest and most important monuments. 1 am so entirely absorbed 
and interested in these studies just now, that 1 have not much time 
for other things. My father-in-law, perhaps Princess Charles too, 

* A private plate, engraved for the Queen by the late Mr. Francis Holl from 
a. picture by Winterhalter. 

t Also engraved by the late Mr. Francis Holl for the Queen from a picture 
given by Her Majesty to the Prince Consort on the 26th of August, 1843. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 161 

■will be with Aunt Marie of Russia at Sorrento then. William will 
probably join us at Rome; he is quite a connoisseur in art, and a 
good historian, quite at home in Rome, about which he raves. 1 
must say that 1 look forward immensely to this journey; it opens a 
whole new life to one. . . , 

• Kanne has made all arrangements for us at Rome. We shall 
leave here about the 1 8th of March. 

Rome, Hotel d'Allemagne : March 27. 
. . . We left the dear children well, but very sorry at part- 
ing. The two days at Munich were most interesting. The National 
Museum in its way surpasses any 1 have ever seen, and in originals 
is ricner even than South Kensington. Aunt Mariechen was very 
kind and dear; the Moriers very amiable hosts, and we met some 
Interesting people there. Two hours before we left, after eight in 
the evening, Ludwig and Otto* came to us and remained sometime. 

The Brenner, over which we came, was covered with snow — most 
beautiful scenery, like St. Moritz in the Jiingadine. Tue journey 
was very fatiguing. We had a morning for Bologna, and had to 
wait three hours at Florence for the night train — time enough to 
drive round and in the town, which is most lovely. What trees, 
mountains, colors ! then the fine buildings ! 

The following morning at six we I'eached Rome. The sun was 
bright, the distance blue— the grand ruins dark and sharp against 
the sky, cypresses, stone pines, large cork oaks, making up such a 
beautiful picture. Every day I admire the scenery more and more; 
every little bit of architecture, broken or whole, with a glimpse of 
the Campagna, a picturesque dirty peasant and a dars tree close by, 
is a picture in itself which one would like to frame and hang up in 
one's room. It is too, too beautiful ! To tell you all we have seen 
and are seeing would tire you. Bertie and Arthur's descriptions, 
too, so lately have told you the same. 

The Via Appia, the grand old road lined with ruins of splendid 
tombs, leading- from Atbano through the Campagna to Rome along 
which St. Paul went, and tne great kings and emperors made their 
triumphal entries, is a fit one to lead to such a city as Rome, which 
ruled the world. 

The antique monuments, those of the Middle Ages, are so magnifi- 
cent and interesting that as yet 1 don't know which to mention first 
or admire most! 

Our incognito did not last long (though even now we maintain it), 
for the Crown Princess heard of us and came to see us, as did the 
Crown Prince, and we had to go to the Quirinal, a morning visit 
without entourage. 

Palm Sunday, Rome : April 6. 
. . . We saw the beginning of Mass and blessing of the palms 
in St. Peter's this morning, with a procession and beautiful singing. 
Whilst the procession, with part of the choristers, go outside the 
church, some remain within, and they respond to each other, which 
produces a very striking effect. In spite of the bad style inside of 

* The King of Bavaria and his brother, first cousins of Prince Louis of Hesse. 

6 



163 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

St. Peter's, as a whole it produces a marvelous eflect through its 
wonderful size and richness of decoration. 

1 saw two convents yesterday: the Sepolte Vive, which Bertie and 
Alix saw, and where the nuns asked nauch after him, and said that 
he was moUo amabiler ; and another equally strict one, but not au- 
stere, where the Superior told me that Aunt Feodore with Princess 
HohenzoUern had paid them a visit. Monsignore Howard was the 
only gentleman with me and the ladies, as they never see any men. 
Their idea is, that they spend the whole of their life in contempla- 
tion and prayer, so as to pray for those who cannot pray for them- 
selves. 

The museums of the Vatican and of the CapitoJ, with their enor- 
mous collection of antiques, are very fine. The celebrated Venus, 
Apollo Belvedere, the Torso (which Michael Angelo admired so 
much, and was taken to touch when he could no more see it), the 
wounded Gladiator, &c., are there. The Sistine Chapel, with 
Michael Angelo's frescoes, which are certainly the most marvelous 
pieces of painting and conception, is verj'- dark, and the frescoes are 
suffering much from the smoke, dust, &c. Raphael 's Stanze are far 
better preserved, and lighter than I had expected, and of suck 
beauty ! 

1 thought so often and so much of dear Papa, when I saw the 
originalsof all the pictures he so much admired and took such in- 
terest in. How this alone fascinates me 1 cannol tell you. In these 
galleries and chvu'ches there is only too much to be seen, besides the 
antique ruins, &c. You would be terrified to see how full oui day 
is from before nine. Mr. Ruland is an excellent cicerone for pict- 
ures and sculptures. 'William is with us here since last Sunday. 

We are going to the Villa Ludovisi this afternoon. The gardens 
of the V ilia Doria Pamfili are most beautiful : the terraces there re- 
mind me of Osborne. 1 can see in many things where dear Papa 
got his ideas from for Osborne and for his decorations, which Pro- 
fessor Gruner understood so well to carry out. 

Many thanks for your having told Lady Churchill to send me an 
account of your opening of the Park.* 1 am glad all went off so 
well, and that you were not the worse for it. 

1 have quite refused going to Naples. We shall arrange probably 
to go for two days to Castellamare (one hour from Naples), from 
thence to Sorrento and Pompeii, and return here. As yet it is not 
hot here at all. 

Rome : April 9. 

Let me thank you for your letter written on our dear Victoria's , 
birthday. I have never been away from her on her birthday be- 
fore, and though we see such fine interesting things, yet 1 feel very 
homesick for the dear childien always. In three weeks or less 1. 
shall see them all again. 1 look forward to the time with perfect 
impatience, as 1 am so rarely separated from them, and we live so 
much together. Every other day Fraulein Kitz and Orchard write, 
so that I have news daily. 
Louis' father wrote to me to-daj'', as his sister asks us to her house 

* The opening of Victoria Park, in the East End of London, on the 2nd of 
April. 



ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 163 

at Sorrento for one or two nights for the 12th; but as 1 was rather 
deranged from a sick headache yesterday, 1 shall wait a da3'^ before 
we decide. It is wet and quite cold to-day. 

"We visited San Clemente two days ago, and Father Mulooly took 
Tis through the three churches — one under the other. The antique 
one was full of water, and we walked about on rickety planks, each 
with a lighted taper, as it is quite dark thqre. It is most curious, 
and the old paintings on the walls telling the legend of St. Clement 
are wonderfully full of expression and feeling for the time they 
were done. 

Rome : April 19. 

, . . Our visit to Sorrento went off well. We got there at one 
on Monday morning for luncheon. The san had given me a dread- 
ful headache, which ended' in sickness, so that 1 could not leave my 
room. Marie sat with me, and was very dear and kind. The next 
day, she and my Aunt, who seems tired and dispirited, had bad 
headaches. We went with my father-in-law and some of the ladies 
and gentlemen on the following afternoon in the Empress's yacht 
to Capri, close by, to see the blue grotto. 

The Bay of Naples, particularly seen from Sorrento, is most 
lovely — like a beautiful dream — the colors, the outlines are so 
perfect. 

We breakfasted together in the mornings with AlUuI and Marie, 
and on Tuesday we took our leave. 

We shall go to Florence the 33d (the first station homeward); 
remain there three or four days; one night at Verona, and then 
home. It is a fatiguing journey, and we have so often had people 
in the carriage, which is very unpleasant — some very rude English, 
going to Sorrento; they did not know us. 

Florence : April 25. 

Your kind wishes 1 received early this morning. Thousand 
thanks for them, and for the presents which 1 shall find on getting 
liome! 

1 shall be so glad to have a large photograph of yourself. Thirty 
years! Goud-by, youth; but 1 feel quite as old as I am, though the 
Uime has flown by so fast. I would it had flown as well as it has 
fast ! I look back to the past with great gratitude to the Almighty 
for innumerable blessings, and pray our life may continue so blest. 
1 have a very bad headache — neuralgia; 1 have it continually, and 
the journey is very long and tiring. Darling Einie wanted to buy 
Bomething for my birthday, and he thought a china doll with a bath 
would be the best. 1 am glad Victoria remembered to write to 
Beatrice as 1 told her; they are very fond of their A.untie. 

Florence seems a beautiful town, and the situation amongst the 
hills, over which the suburbs spread, is most picturesque. 

1 inclose the last telegrams from Sorrento. It is fiewe du pays 
which Marie had. We remained at Rome a day longer on account 
of poor Alfred. He is very patient and hopeful. 

The King, whom we saw at the races, sends you his respects, 
and was delighted with the cream-colored horse you sent him. 
Many thanks for the flowers. 1 inclose two from here. The 



164 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

account of your giving away the colors* 1 had already read with, 
interest. 

"We must go to the Grand Ducji^s Marie to-morrow ; Monday to 
Verona, twelve hours; next morning to Munich, and that night to 
Darmstadt. How I look forward to see the dear children ! It seems 
to me an age since we parted. 

Darmstadt : June 9. 

Tender thanks for your last letter, and for every word of sym- 
pathy! The weary days drag on, and bring much pain at times, 
though there are moments of comfort, and even consolation. 

The horror of my Darling's sudden deathf at times torments me 
too much, particularly waking of a morning; but when I think he 
is at rest, free from the sorrow we are suffering, and from every evil 
to come, 1 feel quite resigned. He was such a bright child. It 
seems so quiet next door; I miss the little feet, the coming tome, 
for we lived so much together, and Ernie feels so lost, poor love. 

We were at the Mausoleum with all the children yesterday even- 
ing. It is a quiet spot amidst trees and flowers, with a lovely view 
toward the hills and plain. He loved flowers so much. I can't see- 
one along the roadside without wishing to pick it for him. 

There is a young sculptor from Stuttgart, who was accidentally 
here, and, meeting the children, had asked permission to make 
medallions of them. The last afternoon sweet Frittie had sat to 
him, and he is now making a lovely bust of him, which is getting- 
very like. 

On Wednesday my mother-in-law, with her three sons, goes to 
Berlin; on Thursday Uncle Adalbert^ will be buried in the Dom. 

We sha'u't be able to go to Seeheim until Saturday. 

How too kind of you to have asked us to Osborne 1 How a rest 
and home air would have revived me — and the pleasure of seeing 
you again; but Louis cannot leave until after his birthday If he 
did get leave, it would so throw him out before he has to command; 
and, haviDg been absent this spring, he feels it an impossibility, and 
this I am sure you will understand. I could not leave him or the 
children. Our circle has grown smaller, and drawn us all the more 
together with a dread of parting from each other. We thank you 
a thousand times for the kind offer. 

Seeheim : June 32. 
... I do earnestly hope that too long a time may not elapse 
before we meet. 

It is very hot, and 1 feel very low and unhappy. 

To morrow this house will be full, and all the Russians, &c., 
close by. Had there only been any other quiet country place to be 
at, how gladly would I have escaped this ! 

... It is only three weeks to-day since we took our darling to his 
last resting-place! 1 wish I could go there to day, but it is too hot 
and too far. 

* To the 79th Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders, at Parkhurst, on the 16th 
of April. 

t The allusion is to the death of the little Prince Frederick, who was killed ou 
the 29th of the previous month by a fall from a window. 

X Princess Charles' brother, Prince Adalbert of Prussia. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 165 

Fritz and Louise of Baden came two days ago to Darmstadt, to 
see my parents-in-law and us. 

Dr. Macleod's letter is very kind. 

1 inclose two photographs of dear Frittie out of groups, the nega- 
tive of one of which unluckily does not exist any more. The little 
blouse is the one he had on on that terrible day. My darling sweet 
child — to have lost him so! To my grave shall 1 carry this sorrow 
with me. 

In the book you sent me there is a fine poem by Miss Proctor, 
" Our grief ^ our friend," called Fnend sorrow, which expresses so 
much what 1 myself feel about a deep grief. 

Seeheim : June 27. 
... It was just four weeks yesterday since our darling died, 
and we went to the Mausoleum. 1 felt the whole weight of my sor- 
row, and the terrible shock doubly again. But the precious child 
does not — that is a comfort. He is happy and at rest, whilst we 
grieve and mourn. Ernie always prays for Frittie, and talks to me 
of him when we walk together. 

Aunt Marie arrived at two on Monday, and a few hours later came 
to see me, and was so sympathizing, mother^, and loving; it touched 
me much. At such moments she is peculiarly soft and womanly, 
and she loves her own children so tenderly. She cried much, and 
told me of the sad death of her eldest girl, who was seven, and of 
the terrible, irreparable loss her eldest son was to her. She has 
such a religious, truly resigned way of looking at great sorrows such 
as these. In the room I am now living in Aunt Marie had seen 
Frittie in his bath two years ago, and she remembered all about 
him. She is coming to " Sunshine's " toilet this evening; it always 
amuses her, and she is very fond of the children. 

Seeheim : July 9. 
. . . There are days which seem harder than others, and when 
1 feel very heartsick, prayer and quiet and solitude do me good. 

1 hear AfBe comes on Thursday night. This evening the Emperor 
arrives. Pour Marie* is very happy, and so quiet. . . . How I 
feel for the parents, this only daughter (a character of Hingehung 
[perfect devotion] to those she loves), the last child entirely at 
home, as the parents are so much away that the two youngest, on 
account of their studies, no more travel about. 

Seeheim : July 26. 
... 1 am glad that you have a little colored picture of my 
darling. 1 feel lower and sadder than ever, and miss him so much, 
so continually. There is such a gap between Ernie and Sunny, 
and the two boys were such a pretty pair, and were become such 
companions. Having so many girls, I was so proud of our two 
boys ! The pleasure did not last long, but he is mine more than ever 
now. He seems near me always, and 1 carry his precious image in 
my heart everywhere. That can never fade or die ! 

♦ The Grand* Duchess Marie, who was engaged on the 11th of July to the 
Duke of Edinburgh. 



166 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Seeheim: August?. 
Many thanks for your aear letter! 1 am feeling so low and 
weak to-day that kind words are doubly soothing. You feel so with 
me, when you understand how long and deep my grief must be. 
And does one not grow to love one's grief, as having become part of 
the being one loved — as if through tJiis one could still pay a tribute 
of love to them, to make up for the terrible loss, and missing of not 
being able to do anything for the beloved one any more?* 1 am so 
much with my children and am so accustomed to care for them and 
their wants daily, that I miss not having Frittie, the .object of our 
greatest care, far more than words can describe; and in the quiet of 
our everyday life, where we have only the children around us, it is 
doubly and trebly felt, and is a sorrow that has entered into the very 
heart of our existence. 

May the hour of trial and grief brine: its blessing with it, and not 
have come in vain! The day passes so quickly, when one can do 
good and make others happy, and one leaves always so much un- 
done. I feel more than ever, one should put nothing ofi ; and chil- 
dren grow up so quickly and leave one, and I would long that mine 
should take nothing but the recollection of love and happiness from 
their home with them into the world's fight, knowing that they have 
there always a safe harbor, and open arms to comfort and encourage 
them when they are in trouble, I do hope that this may become the 
case, though the lesson for parents is so difficult, being continually 
giving without always finding the return. 

Dear Fanny Baillie has been a few days here, and goes to England 
to-day. I shall miss her so much. 1 am so very fond of her. 1 
hope you will see her; she will bring you many messages from us. 

Seeheim : August 13. 
. . . After endless difficulties it has been settled that we can go 
to the Mainau. I am so far from strong and well that a change is 
necessary, and we shall go on the 15th, as Louise of Baden pro- 
posed, and I have written this to her. 

How you will enjoy the rest at Balmoral! After so much going 
on, you must require it. 

Hel^ne Renter is coming here for a fortnight with her boy — Ernest's 
age. Poor boy, he longs for a playfellow. 

Seeheim : August 16. 
. . . Louis joins with me in saying that we shall gratefully 
accept your wish that we should come to Windsor, and he trusts 
there will be no difficulties for leave then. . . . 

Seeheim : September 7. 
. . . You ask if 1 can play yet? 1 feel as if I could not, and I 
have not yet done so. In my own house it seems to me as if 1 

* How these words recall those of Constance (jSTmgr John, act iii., scene 4) : — 
Grief fills the room up of my absent child, 
Lies in his bed, walks up and down with me, 
Puts on his pretty looks, repeats his words, 
Remembers me of all his gracious parts, 
Stuffs out his vacant garments with his form;* 
Then have I reason to be fond of grief. 



ALICE, GRA.ND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 167 

never could play again on that piano, where little hands were nearly 
always thrust when 1 wanted to play. Away from home — in Eng- 
land — much sooner. 1 had played so often lately that splendid, 
touching funeral march, of Chopin's, and I remember it is the last 
thing I played, and then the boys wei'e running in the room. 

Maiy Teck came to see me and remained two nights, so warm- 
hearted and sympathizing. 1 like to talk of him to those who love 
children, and can understand liow great the gap, how intense the 
pain, the ending of a little bright existence causes. 

Soon 1 shall have my Louis back. I long for him very much; but 
tlie change of air, the active outdoor life, and being quite thrown 
into men'^s society and occupations, must refresh body and mind. 
Here he has only me, the governess and children as Umgang. But he 
is what the Germans call ein HauRhammel — it is what he likes best. 

We shall do nothing for his birthday. The children will recite 
their poems and write little things, and his parents will come lo our 
five o'clock tea. 

Heiden, Appenzell : October 7. 
How kind of you to remember our darling's birthday; we both, 
thank you for this. Sad and many are our thouglits. I think of 
my loneliness and anxiety when he was born, with Louis far away 
in the midst of danger — a sad and awful time to come into the world; 
but sweet Frittie was my comfort and occupation, a second son, a 
pleasure to us both! Now all this is wiped out, and our parents' 
hearts are sore, and askins for the dear bright face we miss so much 
from amongst our circle of children! He ended his fight very soon. 
May we all follow in a way as peaceful, with as little struggle and 
pain, and leave an image of as much love and brightness behind, to 
be a blessed remembrance for the rest of our lives! 

1 can't write on any other subject to-day, therefore close these 
short lines with much love from your devoted child, Alice. 

Darmstadt : November 14. 
... It is very kind of you to ask about the rooms. I should 
prefer living in the tapestr}'' rooms this time. It won't be like the 
last lime — though after our house here, so full of happy and of 
heartrending recollections, 1 go through continual pangs, which it 
will take many a year to soften down, as you can understand. 

Buckingham Palace : December 20. 

Beloved Mamma, — How ,inuch 1 thank you for your dear pre- 
cious letter, and for all the true love and considerate sympathj^ you 
showed me during our visit! It has soothed and comforted me, 1 
assure you, and will be a pleasure and satisfaction for me to look 
back to the many pleasant talks we had together. 

Louis, who has always been so devoted to you, was touched to 
tears, as I was, by your expressions of love to us and lo our chil- 
dren. 

Thank you also for all advice, which is so precious to me, and iu 
following it 1 shall like to think that 1 am doing something that you 
told me. 

How much [ felt in parting from you I cannot say. Neither did 
1 like to speak of it, for it was too much, and the harder things iu 



168 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

life are better borne in silence, as none can bear them for one, and 
they must be fought out by one's self. 

Ernie and Irene send endless loves to you, to Uncle and Auntie. 
Sunny's hand is better. 

Tiila came to see me yesterday, and we both drove with her to the 
Memorial.* 

. . . There is so much 1 would run on about, now the dear habit 
of intercourse together has once more become so natural to me. 
"Writing is at best a poor remplagant. 

Once more from both of us warm and tender thanks for so much 
love and kindness! Love to Leopold and Beatrice; kind remem- 
-brances to all who surround you! 

From your grateful and devoted child, 

Alice. 

Buckingham Palace : December 21. 
... It is fine and warm and still. 1 hope it will be so early 
to-morrow when we cross over. 1 shall telegraph how the passage 
has been. 

Please thank Brown for his kind wishes. I am so sorry that I 
missed saying good-by to several. To say the truth, I dreaded it. 
It is always so painful. The old Baron'sf way of disappearing was 
almost the best. 



1874 



During the first months of this year the Princess had the com- 
fort of seeing many of her relations. The year was chiefly spent in 
retirement, and devoted to many sad memories. On the 34th of May 
she gave birlh to a daughter whose christening took place on the 11th 
of July at Jugenheim, near Darmstadt, in the presence of the Em- 
press of Russia and the Duke of Edinburgh. The child received the 
names of Marie Victoria Feodora Leopoldine. 

The hottest part of the summer was spent at Blankenberghe for 
the use of sea baths. In September the great maneuvers of the 
Eleventh Army Corps took place in Upper Hesse, where the Prin- 
cess met the Emperor of Germany. 

- The Princess's charitable institutions were all prospering, and 
assuming larger and larger proportions; amongst them the Princess 's 
own hospital was by degrees slowly approaching completion. It 
was the institution she had the most at heart. . It was intended to 
be a training-school for those who intended to become nurses, and a 
home for probationers whose training was at an end. It was also 
to serve as a model of those reforms in sanitary arrangements which 
the Princess had so much at heart. 

When the provisional English hospital at Darmstadt (already men- 
tioned during the war in 1870) had been taken over by the Hessian 
authorities, all its furniture, appointments, &c., were left to the 

* To the Prince Consort in Hyde Park. 

t Baron Stockmar had such a disHke of leave-takings that he never let it be 
known when he was going away from the English Court. The first intimation 
Of his intention was — that he was already gone. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 169 

" Alice Ladies' Union " tor the small hospital which it had started, 
aided by a small body of doctors in Darmstadt. This was the origin 
of the " Alice Hospital," begun in a very small humble way in a 
cramped little house in the Mauer-Strasse. The Frauen-Verein had 
undertaken, when the English National Society for Aid to Sick and 
Wounded had made over their hospital to them, either to build quite 
a new one or thoroughly to reorganize the existing one in the Mauer- 
Straase. There were no funds to build a new hospital; therefore, 
the " Alice Ladies' Union " could only resort to the other alternative, 
and this was carried out to the letter, by additional buildings and a 
totally new arrangement of its interior. As time went on, it was 
found advisable -to give the hospital a distinct administration, and to 
separate it from the " Alice Ladies' Union," placing special funds at 
its disposal. This never would have come to pass, nor would the 
hospital have proved the success it did, had it not been for the im- 
tiring zeal, perseverance, economy, and practical knowledge of the 
lady directing it. During the summer months of 1874, a lady well 
acquainted with German and English hospitals — a trained nurse her- 
self—became Lady Superintendent of the training-school for nurses, 
and of the hospital generally, which gradually, but surely, was gain- 
ing in importance. » 

The Alice Union for the Emplo5mient of Women made a further 
step in advance during this year, and established itself on a firm 
broad basis under the name of ' ' The Alice Society for the Educa- 
tion and Employment of Women of all Classes." Of this the Prin- 
cess was the President, whilst Fraulein Louise Blichner directed the 
whole. The gentlemen and ladies who formed the committee were 
chosen by the Princess. All worked most harmoniously together; 
and the Princess was as anxious to receive advice' from others in, 
matters concerning the society as she was glad to give it herself. 



Darmstadt: January 12. 
. . . Holo low and miserable 1 am at times in these rooms, par- 
ticularly when I go to bed, 1 cannot tell you! The impression of 
all is so vivid and heartrending. I could cry out for pain sometimes. 
Till the first year is round this will often return, Iknow, and must 
be borne as part of the sorrow ! 

Januarj' 10. 
... 1 know well what your grief and j'our bereavement were 
compared to mine; but they are such different sorrows, I don't think 
one can well compare them. Your life was broken — upset: altered 
from the very roots, through the one you lost; my life is unchanged, 
save in the mother's heart the blank, the pain which thousands of 
little things awaken — which by the world, even by the family, are 
scarcely felt ; and this ofttimes loneliness of sentiment clouds one's 
life over with a quiet sorrow which is felt in emrytMng. , . . 

Darmstadt : January 23. 
On our dear Affie's [Prince Alfred's] wedding-day, a few lender 
words. It must seem so strnnge to j^ou not to be near him. My 
thoughts are constantly with them all, and we have only the Times,* 



170 ALICE, GEAKD DUCHESS OJ- HESSE.. 

account, for no one writes here — they are all too busy, and of course 
all news comes to you. What has Augusta [Lady Augusta Stanley] 
written, and Vicky and Bertie? Any extracts or other newspaper 
accounts but what we see would be most welcome. 

We give a dinner to-night to the iamily and entourage, and Rus- 
sian and English legations. ... 

Louis sends yuu his love and warmest wishes for yourself and the 
happiness of the dear pair, in which I most earnestly Join. Grod 
bless and jjrotect them, and may all turn out well! 

Darmstadt : January 28. 
. . . Dear Marie [the Duchess of Edinburgh] seems to make the 
same impi ession on all. How glad 1 am she is so quite what I 
thought and hoped. Such a wife must make Affle happy, and ao 
him good, and be a great pleasure to yourself, which I always like 
to think. I shall read to my mother-in-law the letters, and show 
them to Bauerlein. Both will be very grateful for being allowed to 
see them. 

We are going from Saturday to Monday to Carlsruhe. The eldest 
girls .^nd Bauerlein, who is going to take charge of them for a week, 
are going with us. 

. . . One day we have six degrees of h*eat, the next two or four of 
cold; it is very unwholesome. 

Carlsruhe : February 8. 
I have a little time before breakfast to thank you so very much 
for the inclosures, also the Dean's [Stanley] letter through dear 
Beatrice. We are most grateful for being allowed to hear these most 
interesting reports. It brings everji-thing so much nearer. How 
pleasant it is to receive only satisfactory reports ! 1 fear Aunt Marie 
is far from well. I should be very anxious, for she is like a fading 
flower. 

All the family, Hohenlohes and Holsteins, send their duty. All 
their respective children and ours were together yesterday afternoon. 
I hope not to seem vaia, if it strikes me that amongst all the chil- 
dren my girls usually carry away the palm. Victoria is in such 
good looks at present; they are both natural and real children, and 
as such 1 hope to be able to retain them long. 

Sophie Weiss* came to see me yesterday. 1 was very glad to be 
able to give her so good an account of you, and how young you 
looked when 1 had that gieat happiness of those few short days at 
Windsor, which did me good in every respect. Old Frau von Bun- 
sen, now eighty -three, I went to see — such a charming old lady, 
fresh in her mind, with snow-white hair. You and Papa were the 
topic she enjoyed speaking about, and our brothers and sisters. 

Darmstadt: March 2. 
. . . My nice Miss Graves 1 could so well have taken when 
Kitty left, but I was so anxious for a German that, though I was 
much inclined toward her, 1 thought a German more important than 
it really is. Not the nationality but the individuality is the first 
thing; and here 1 think 1 have succeeded in finding the right per- 
son. . . . 

* A former Dresser of the Queen's. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 171 

Darmstadt: March 11. 
... I hope you were not the worse for all your exertions. The 
Times' accounts are charming. Such a warm reception must have 
touched Marie, and shown how the English cling to their Sovereign 
and her house. 

We have cold, snow and dust, after quite warm weather. I trust 
you will have sunshine to-morrow. 

This last fortnight the news from Ashantee has so absorbed our 
thoughts. It has been an arduous undertaking, and one's heart 
warms to our dear troops, who under all difficulties sustain their old 
name for bravery and endurance. The poor 42nd [Regiment] lost 
many through illness, too; and I see they entered Coomassie playing 
the bag-pipes! 

Louis is just reading to me Sir Hope Grant's book on the Indian 
Mutiny, which he kindly sent me, and which is interesting and 
pleasant to read. 

1 am taking the first snowdrops to sweet Frittie's grave. How 
the first flowers he so dearly loved bring tears to my eyes, and recol- 
lections which wring my heart anew! 1 dread these two next 
months with their flowers and their birds. Good- by, darling Mamma. 

Darmstadt : April 7. 

. . . Surely Marie must feel it very deeply, for to leave so deli- 
cate and loving a mother must seem almost wrong. How strange 
this side of human nature always seems — leaving all you love most, 
know best, owe all debts of gratitude to, for the comparatively un- 
known ! The lot of parents is indeed hard, and of such self-sacri- 
fice. 

April 11. 

. . . The children are too much an object here: they have too 
little to compare with; they would be benefited by a change, seeing- 
other things and i)eople, else they get into a groove, which 1 know is. 
not good. They are very unspoilt in their tastes, and simple and 
quiet children, which 1 think of the greatest importance. 

Louis Battenberg has passed a first-rate examination. The parents 
are so happy, and the influence the good conduct and steady work of 
the elder brother has on the younger is of the greatest use, as they 
wish to follow him, and be as well spoken of, and please their par- 
ents, as he does. . . . 

April 15. 
My best thanks for your dear letter of the 13th. You say 
rightly, what a fault it is of parents to bring up their daughters with 
the main object of marrying them. This is said to be a prominent 
feature in modern English education of the higher classes. . . . 
1 want to strive to bring up the girls without seeking this as the sole 
object of the future — to feel they can fill up (heir lives so well other- 
wise. ... A marriage for the sake of marriage is surely the 
greatest mistake a woman can make. ... 1 know what an ab- 
sorbing feeling that of devotion to one's parent is. When 1 was at 
home, it filled my whole soul. It does still in a great degree, and 
Eeimioeh [home-sickness] does not cease after ever so long an ab- 
sence. . . . 



172 ALICE, GEA]!fD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

Darmstadt : April 23. 
... I thouglit so miicli of your remarks about daughters, &c., 
and do tliink it so natural and dutiful to remain with one's parent as 
long as oae is wanted. Is it not a duty when no one else can take 
one's place? I should feel it so. 

April 26. 

1 thank you most tenderly for your loving wishes for my birth- 
day, received on getting up yesterday morning. You can under- 
stand that the day was inexpressibly sad, that the fair head missing 
in our circle was painfully felt, and that all these recollections 
caused me endless tears and heartache — though not for him, sweet 
precious child 

As you say, life at best is a struggle happy those who can lie 
down to rest, having fought their battle well; or those who have 
been spared fighting it at all, and have remained pure and un- 
touched, barely touching this earth, so mixed up with grief and sin! 

Let me thank you for the charming photographs, and for the 
present toward the layette— ^a most kind assistance. 

. . . We went to the Mausoleum. The children had made me 
wreaths to take there, and we all went together. How often and ten- 
derly Ernie speaks of Frittie! It is very touching, and speaks of his 
deep and warm heart. He said the other day — for the recollection 
of death has left such a deep impression, and he cannot reconcile it 
with life, it pains him — " When 1 die, you must die too, and all the 
others; why can't all die together? 1 don't like to die alone, like 
Frittie." Poor child! the wish that aZ? have, who love their own, 
so early expressed. ... 

May 4. 
Many thanks for your last dear letter written on dear Arthur's 
birlhday, of which, though late, I wish you joy. Such a good, 
steady, excellent boy as he is ! What a comfort it must be to you, 
never to have had any cause of uneasiness or annoyance in his con- 
duct! He is so much respected, wliich for one so young is doubly 
praiseworthy. From St. Petersburg, as from Vienna, we heard ihe 
same account of ihe steady line he holds to, in spite of all chaffing, 
&c., from others; which shows character. 

My mother-in-law tells me that since Miechen has been allowed to 
retain her religion, this right will of course be conceded to all Prin- 
cesses in future. What a good thing, for the changing 1 always 
thought too bad, and nowadays so intolerant and narrow. . . . 
To think of Mr. Tan de Weyer also leaving this world! To you he 
will be a loss, and to all who knew him. Old friends are precious 
landmarks in the history of one's life, and not to be replaced by 
new ones; and it is sad, how time reduces the number as one gets 
on in life. How deeply j^ou must feel this with each fresh loss ! 1 
feel much for you. . . . 

Darmstadt : May 18. 
. . . Since 1867 the Emperor [of Russia's] face shrunk so, and 
he became so thin. When 1 first saw him, in 1864, he was much 
stouter and fresher looking. He has many cares, and one sees they 
weigh upon him, for he is so kind and so well-meaning, and has 
done so much to advance liberty and culture in his own country. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 173 

Darmstadt : June 5. 
. . . Beloved Mamma, — The day (Whitsunday, and dear Frit- 
tie's burial day) of Baby's birth would have been too sad, had not 
the fact of its being your birthday given a double significance; but 
when I heard those bells, and became conscious again of everything, 
my feelings were deep and mingled beyond expression. 
. . . With repeated tender thanks, your most loving child, 

Alice. 

June 11. 
. . . Having no cow, or country place to keep one, in this tre- 
mendous heat where one can't keep milk, and dysentery carries off 
«o many babies, it would not be fair to deprive the poor little thing 
of its natural and safest nourishment till the hot months are over. 
These, darling Mamma, are my reasons, and though 1 do it with 
such pleasure, yet it is not without sacrifices of comfort and conven- 
ience, &c. ; but it seems to me the best course to take for our chil- 
dren, and as we are situated. 

Many thanks for being Baby's godmother! It gives us great 
pleasure. 

JJo thank all our good people for their kind interest. . . . 

1 am driving out this afternoon, if cool enough. . . . You 
must not tell one of the heavenly Scotch air, when one is breathing 
Jieated stove air; it makes one too envious. . , . 

July 13. 

The christening went oft very well. Baby looked really pretty 
for so young an individual. It was in a large room. Marie [Duch 
ess of Edinburgh], quite in pink, held her godchild; and my moth- 
er-in-law, with her best love, begs me to tell you, it had pleased her 
so much that you had asked hei to represent you. My three older 
girls looked very nice, I thought, in lavender silk (your Christmas 
present). 1 had the same color, and "Sunny," in pink, was im- 
mensely admired. She is still improving in looks since you saw her.- 

1 was glad it was another place, in different circumstances from 
the last christening. As it was, it moved me mucli. The last time 
I heard these words darling Fritlie was with us, and now the chain 
has a gap ! 

... We can get nothing at Scheveningen except at exorbitant 
prices, so w^e go to that dreadful Blankenberghe— without tree or 
bush, nothing but a beach and sand banks. 

Blankenberghe : July 34. 
The sea air is dong all good, the children especially, the heat had 
pulled them so. 

1 have bathed once, and hope it will agree. . . . My cough 
and relaxed throat are getting better. 

The rooms are small and few, but clean, and the cooking good, 
and we are quite satisfied. There Is not a soul one knows. 

Blankenberghe: August 16. 
This day makes me fliink of our dear kind Grandmamma, 
"whose image still dwells amongst us! None who ever knew her can 
forget how truly lovable she was; and we grandchildien will ever 



174 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

retain such a bright recollection of her. So many little attentions, 
small souvenirs, kind letters, all tokens o± affection so pleasing to 
the receivers. 

Yesterday Louis saved a lady from drowning. He was bathing. 
The waves were high, and he heard a cry for help, and saw a bather 
struggling. She had lost her footing. Her husband tried to help 
her, but was exhausted and let her go; equally so the brother-in- 
law, and Louis felt he was losing his strength, but she iiept her pres- 
ence of mind and floated. He let her go once till a wave brought 
her near him again, and he caught her hand and brought her in, 
feeling quite done himse'^f. 1 was not in the sea at the time, for the 
waves were so tremendous that 1 lost my footing several times, and 
had come out, fearing an accident. The lady is a Mrs. T. Sligo, a 
Scotchwoman, and she has just written to me to thank Louis. He is 
a good swimmer, and very strong. The gentlemen are two gray- 
haired Scotchmen. 

Ella has so wonderfully improved since she has been here. She- 
is no more pale and languid, and Ernie is another child also. 

Luckily it has not been warm so the air and baths are doubly 
efficacious. They have done me a world of good. 1 feel quite dif- 
ferent to what 1 have done ever since Sunny 's birth. 1 believe the 
sea to be the only thing for such a relaxed state, and, being strong 
and healthy by nature, 1 can't bear not being well and feeling so 
weak. Miss Graves has returned, but the girls have been very good 
— no trouble at all. 

Kranichstein : August 26. 

On dear Papa's birthday 1 must send you a few lines. The 
past is ever bright and vivid in my mind, though year after year 
intervenes. How must it be for you, who live surrounded by such 
precious recollections of the happy past! 

1 think doubly of you to-day, and doubly tenderly, sweet Mamma! 
1 got home quite right, and found the house here cold. There was 
no sun, and our rooms being to the north, and the wood so near, 
makes them feel chilly. 

1 am glad dear Leopold bore the journey well. The air "will do 
him good in his weakened state. 

The day at Laeken was quiet and pleasant. Marie is still thinner 
and more aged, 1 think. The loss of that nice boy weighs on them 
still, and they spoke much about it, and she with many tears. 

Everyone has his burden to bear, and must bear it alone with 
trust and resignation — that is the thing to struggle and to pray for. 

Kranichstein : September 1. 

. . . I shall get a comforter done for good Mrs. Brown, kind old 
woman. 1 am glad she does not forget me, and shall be pleased to 
do any \VA\t thing that can give her pleasure. "Will you tell her, the 
plaid she made me still goes everywhere with me? How is Mrs. 
Gram ? 

Louis is gone, and I have a good deal to do every day. We break- 
fast at half -past eight, then 1 have Baby and take the children out 
till eleven. 1 then have business. Baby, and, at one, the elder girls 
alternately for French reading. iVfter luncheon I write my letters. 



ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 175 

&c., and before five go out. In the evenings 1 read, and have sup- 
per at eight with the two ladies. 

Ella is another child since she has been at the seaside — fine color, 
no longer pale and languid, learns well, and is quite different. Ernie 
the same, bright and fresh; while before they had been looking pulled 
and weak, outgrowing their strength. 

" Sunny " is the picture of robust health, and sweet little " sister 
Mai}"- " sits up quite alone, and is very neat and rosy, with such quick 
eyes, and two deep dimples in her cheeks— a great pet, and so like my 
poor Frittie. 

The return here has been very painful, and days of great depres- 
sion still come, when I am tormented with the dreadful rem.em- 
brance of the daj 1 lost him. Too cruel and agonizing are those 
thoughts. 1 dwell on Jiis rest and peace, and that our sufferings he 
cannot know. What might not life have brought him? Better so! 
but hard to say, " God's will be done." 

Kranichstein : September 15. 

. . . 's conversion has created no smaller sensation with us 

than elsewhere, and the Times criticised his step so sharply. It re- 
mains a retrograde movement for any Protestant, how much more so 
for a man of his stamp! Quite incomprehensible to me. 

. . . This Catholic movement is so u?i-EnglM. 1 think, among 
those Ritualists there are 5(9?irt^(fe Catholics who help to convert. . . . 
I will send you sweet little Maly's photograph next time. . . . 
Baby has a very fair skin, light-brown hair and deep blue eyes with 
marked eyebrows, not much color in her cheeks, but pink and 
iiealthy -looking altogether. 

Kranichstein : September 34. 

. . . People with strong feelings and of nervous temperament, 
for which one is no more responsible than for the color of one's eyes, 
have things to fight against and to put up with, unknown to those 
of quiet equable dispositions, who are tree from violent emotions, 
and have consequently no feeling of nerves — still less, of irritable 
nerves. If 1 did not control mine as much as 1 could, they would 
be dreadful. . . . One can overcome a great deal — but alter one's 
self one cannot. . . . 

October 31. 

... 1 always think, that in the end children educate the parents. 
For their sakes there is so much one must do: one must forget 
one's self, if everything is as it ought to be. It is doubly so, if one has 
the misfortune to lose a precious child. Rilckert's lovely lines are so 
true (after the loss of two of his children) : 

Nun hat euch Gott veriieh'ii, was wir auch woUten thun, 
Wir wollten euch erzieh'n, und ihr erzieht uns nun. 
O Kinder, ihr erziehet niit Schmerz die Eltern ietzt; 
Ihr zieht an uns, und ziehet uns auf zu euch zuletzt.* 

Yesterday Ernie was telling Orchard that 1 was going to plant 
acme Spanish chestnuts, and she said, " Oh, 1 shall be dead and 

* Now unto you the Lord has done what we had wished to do; 
We would have train'd you np. and now 'tis we are train'd by you. 
With grief and tears. O children, do you your parents train, 
And lure us on and up to you, to meet in heaven again. 



176 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

gone before they are big; what a pity we had noae sooner!" and 
Ernie burst out crying and said, " No, you must not die alone — I 
don't like people to die alone-; we must die all together!" He has 
said the same to me before, poor darling. After Lenchen's [Princess 
Christian's] boys were gone, and he had seen Eddy and Georgy 
[sons of Prince of Wales], his own loss came fresh upon him, and 
he cried for his little brother! It is the remaining behind tjie loss, 
the missing of the dear ones, that is the cruel thing to bear. Only 
time can teach one that, and resignation to a Higher Will. . . . 

Darmstadt : November 9. 
. . . The new Church laws (similar to the Prussian) go through 
our Upper Chamber to-morrow, and will meet with great opposition. 
Louis is, of course, for accepting them, as a check must be put on 
the Catholics; for the Catholic clergy are paid by the State as well as 
the Protestant, so that the State has an equal right over both; but this 
right the Catholics have for years managed to evade. The Bisnop 
of Mayence is doing his utmost to create every possible obstacle, but 
it is to be hoped that one will not here have recourse to the method 
of fines and impiisonment as in Prussia. ... 

November 16. 
Many thanks for your dear letter, and for the advice, which, as 
a mark of your interest in our children, is very precious, besides 
being so good! What you mention 1 have never lost sight of, and 
there is, as you say, nothing more injurious for children than that 
they should be made a fuss about. 1 want to make them unselfish, 
unspoiled, and contented; as yet this is the case. That they take a 
greater place in my life, than is often the case in our families, comes 
from my not being able to have enough persons of a responsible sort 
to take charge of them always; certain things remain undone from, 
that reason, if 1 do not do them, and they would be the losers. I 
certainly do not belong by nature to those women who are above all 
wife ; but circumstances have forced me to be the mother in the 
real sense, as in a private family, and I had to school myself to it, I 
assure you, for many small self-denials have been necessary. Baby- 
worship, or having the children indiscriminately about one, is not at 
all the right thing, and a perpetual talk about one's children makes 
some women intolerable. 1 hope 1 steer clear of these faults — at 
least 1 try to do so, for I can only agree in every word you say, as 
does Louis, to whom 1 read it; and he added when I was reading- 
your remarks, " Das thust Du aber nicht. Die Kinder und andere 
Menschen wissen gar nicht, was Du flir sie thust," ["But you 
don't do so. Neither the children nor anybody else knows what 
you do for them "]. He has often complained that 1 would not 
have the children enough in my room, but, being of your opinion,, 
where it was not necessary, 1 thought it better not. . . . 

December 12. 
I inclose a few lines to Mr. Martin.* I have only had time to 
look at the preface, and am very glad to hear that you are satisfied. 

* The first volume of whose Life of the Prince Consort had just been pub- 
lished. 



ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 177 

With what interest shall I read it ! You will receive these lines 
on the 14th. Last year 1 had the comfort of being near yon. It did 
me real good then, and 1 thank you again for those short and quiet 
days, where the intercourse with you was .so soothing to my aching 
heart. There is no Umgang [intercourse] 1 know, that gives me 
more happiness than when 1 can be with you — above all, in quiet. 
The return to the so-called world 1 have barely made. Life is seri- 
ous — a journey to another end. The flowers God sends to brighten 
our path I take with gratitude and enjoy; but much that was dear- 
est, most precious, which this day commemorates, is in the grave; 
part of my heart is there too, though their spirits, adored Papa's, 
live on wilh me, the holiest and brightest part of life, a star to lead 
us, were we but equal to following it ! The older 1 grow the more 
perfect, the mure touching and good, dear Papa's image stands be- 
fore me. Such an entire life for duty, so joyously and unpretending- 
ly borne out, remains for all times something inexpressibly fine and 
grand! With it how tepder, lovable, gay, he was! 1 can never talk 
of him to others who have not known him, without tears in my 
eyes — as I have them now. fie was and is my ideal. I never knew 
a man fit to place beside him, or so made to be devotedly loved and 
admired. ... 

December 14. 

Before this day is over, I must write a few words — my thoughts 
are so much with you and n'ith the past, the bright happy past of 
my childhood, where beloved Papa was the center of this rich and 
happy existence. I have spent nearly the whole day with the pre- 
cious volume which speaks so much of you and of him. 

What a man in every sense of the word ; what a Prince he was — 
so entirely what the dear old Baron [Stockmar] urged him always 
to be ! Life with him must have seemed to you so secure and well- 
guarded. How you must have loved him! It makes one's heart 
ache again and again, in reading and thinking of all dear Papa was 
to you, that you should have had to part from him in tho heat of 
the day, when he was so necessary. Ihm ist icold [With him it is 
well].' ^ life like his was a whole long life-time, though only 
twenty-two years, and he well deserved his rest! 

The hour is nearing when we last held and pressed his hand in 
life, now thirteen years ago. How well 1 recollect that last sunrise, 
and then the dreadful night with you that followed on that too 
awful day! But it is not well to dwell on these things, when we 
have the bright sunny past to look back to. Tennyson's beautiful 
Dedication^ expresses all one feels and would wish to say. 1 can 
only add, with a heavj^-di'awn sigh, " Oh, to be worthier of such a 
Father!" How far beneath him, if not alwaj^s in aims, at least ia 
their fulfillment, have I always remained! 

December 17. 
My best thanks for the letter of the 15th. Poor Colonel Grey'sf 
death is shocking, and Bertie and Alix are sure to have felt it 

* To 27ie Idylls of the King. 

+ Only child of Sir George Grey, and Equerry to the Prince of Wales. He 
died at Sandringham, of inHammation of the lungs. 



178 ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

deeply. Dear Bertie's true and constant heart sufiters on such, occa- 
sions, for he can be constant in friendship, and all who serve him 
serve him with warm attachment. 1 hope he won't give way to the 
idea of Sandringham being unlucky, though so much that has been 
trying and sad has happened to them there! Superstition is surely 
a thing to fight against; above all, with the feeling that all is in 
God's hands, not in ours! 

How interesting the book is [Life oj the Prince Consort\ ! I have 
finished it, and am befriedigt [satisfied]. It was a difficult under- 
taking, but Mr. Martin seems to have done it very well. 

1 am sure dear Osborne is charming as ever, but I can't think of 
that large house so empty; no children any more; it must seem so 
forsaken in our old wing. 1 have such a Heimweh [yearning] to see 
Osborne again after more than six years ! . . . 



1875. 



Each year the Princess Alice endeavored by some public effort or 
other — either a di amatic or musical performance — to collect funds 
for her many charitable institiitions which, as they extended their 
field of usefulness, were more and more in need of pecuniary help. 
Artists as well as amateurs gladly offered their services on all such 
occasions. 

In the beginning of this year the Prince and Princess and their 
children went to England for two months, spending part of the 
time with the Queen, and part with the Prince and Princess of 
Wales. The two eldest daughters, Victoria and Elizabeth, accom- 
panied their grandmother to Balmoral in May. 

The whole family returned to Darmstadt at the end of June. In 
July the Prince and Princess Louis were present at the " coming of 
age" of the Hereditary Grand Duke of Baden. The rest of the 
summer was spent at Kranichstein. 

In 1874 the Hessian Government had amended their educational 
laws for the schools, and had established, as a fundamental princi- 
ple, that needlework in all its branches should be taught in all girls' 
schools, and. that suitable teachers for this purpose should be en- 
gaged. To meet this necessity, a course of lectures and instruction 
in thwart of needlework was instituted by the "Alice Society," 
open to women and girls of all classes. This has proved in its re- 
sults of real blessing and benefit to the whole country. 



[The next two letters arose out of the expression of an opinion on 
the part of some of the Prince Consort's friends, that the puWica- 
tion of his Life under the sanction of the Queen, with unreserved full- 
ness of details, had been premature.] 

Darmstadt : January 3, 1875. 
... It is touching and fine in you to allow the world to have 
so much insight into your private life, and allow others to have 
"what has been only youi' property and our Inheritance. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 179 

People can only be the better for reading about dear Papa, such 
as he was, and such as so feelingly and delicately Mr. Theodore 
Martin places him before them. To me the volume is inexpressibly 
precious, and opens a field for thought in various senses. 

For the frivolous higher classes how valuable this book will be, 
if read with real attention, as a record of a life spent in the highest 
aims, with the noblest conception of duty as a leading star. 

To this letter Her Majesty replied: — 

Osborne: January 13, 1875. 
. . . Dearest Alice, — Now as regards the book. If you will 
reflect a few minutes, you will see, how 1 owed it to beloved Papa 
to let his noble character be known and understood, as it now is, 
and that to wait longer, when those who knew him best — his own 
wife, and a few (very few there are) remaining friends — were all 
gone, or too old, and too far removed from that time, to be able to 
present a really true picture of his most ideal and remarkable char- 
acter, would have been really wrong. 

He must be known, for his own sake, for the good of England and 
of his family, and of the world at large. Countless people write to 
say, what good it does and will do. And it is already thirteen years 
since he left us ! 

Tlien you must also remember, that endless false and untrue 
things have been written and said about us, public and private, and 
that in these days people will write and will know: therefore the 
only way to counteract this is to let the real, full truth be known, 
and as much be told as can be told with prudence and discretion, 
and then no harm, but good, will be done. Nothing will help me 
more, than that my people should see what 1 have lost! Numbers 
of people we knew have had their Lives and Memoirs published, 
and some beautiful ones. Bunsen's, by his wife; Lord Elgin's, by 
his (very touching and interesting); Lord Palmerston's; &c., &c. 

The Early Tears volume was begun for private circulation only, 
and then General Grey and many of Papa's friends and advisers 
begged me to have it published. This was done. The work was 
most popular, and greatly liked. General Grey could not go on with 
it, and asked me to ask Sir A. Helps to continue it, and he said that 
he could not, but recommended Mr. Theodore Martin as oue of the 
most eminent writers of the day, and hoped 1 could prevail on him 
to undertake this great national work. 1 did succeed, and he has 
taken seven years to prepare the whole, supplied by me wilh every, 
letter and extract: and a deal of time it took, but 1 felt it would be 
a national sacred work. You must, I think, see 1 am right now; 
Papa and 1 too would have suffered otherwise. 1 think even the 
German side of his character will be understood. 

One of the things that pleases people most is the beautiful way in 
which he took all good Stockmar's often very severe observations. 
And they also admire so much good old Stockmar's honesty, fear- 
lessness, and are pleased to be shown what a dear warin-hearted old 
man he was. Your devoted Mamma, V. R. 



180 ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

January 18. 
. . . The service in Dr. Weber's study before the open coffin, 
filled with flowers, was very affecting. He was truly beloved and 
respected. His sufferings must have been intense, and for many 
years borne heroically — not a word said: not a complaint; always 
ready to bear the sorrows of others with them, yet bearing his own 
unassisted! Wonderful self-command and unselfishness 1 He knew 
his illness was fatal; even to the latter weeks considered his days as 
but few, and put all in order, without letting his family and friends 
know what he himself only too well foresaw. 

It was a stormy afternoon with pouring rain when he was buried. 
Louis, his poor boy, and many were out. ... 

We have April weal her. I have a very heavy cold, and feel so 
weak and done up. It is too warm and unhealthy : every place 
smells, our house especially. 

January 27. 
. . . My little May has such a cold, which lessens her usual 
smiles. She is a fine strong child, more like what Victoria was, but 
marked eyebrows, with the fair hah* and such speaking eyes. She 
and Aliky are a pretty contrast! 

February 14. 
You say of the drains just what 1 have said from year to year; 
and this summer — if we can get away in the spring, when it is most 
unwholesome — what can be done is to be done, and 1 hope with bet- 
ter success than what has hitherto been attempted. 

My little May cannot get rid of her cough, though she looks pink 
and smiling. 1 shall be so glad to show her to you — she is so pretty 
and dear. 

My father in-law has for the first time got the gout in his feet, 
and is so depressed. Uncle Louis suffers dreadfully from oppression 
at night, so that he can't remain in bed. He is a good deal aged, 
and stoops dreadfully. . . . 

March 14. 

Louis gave me a dreadful fright last week by suddenly break- 
ing through the ice, and at a very deep place. He laid his arms over 
the thicker ice, and managed to keep above water till some one was 
near enough to help him out. He said the water drew immensely, 
and he feared getting under the ice. The gentleman, who is very 
tall, lay down and stretched his arms out to Louis, another man 
holding the former: and so he got out without ill effects. As it was 
at Kranichstein, he undressed and rubbed himself before the stove in 
the Verwalter's [land-steward's] room; and he came home in the 
Verwalter's clothes, which looked very funny. . . . 

Marlborough House : May 15. 
I did not half thank you yesterday for our pleasant visit. I 
€Ould not trust myself to speak. 1 felt leaving you again so much. 
It has been a great happiness to me, so iDoliltJiuend [doing me so 
much good] to have been with you, and 1 can never express what 1 
feel, as 1 would, nor how deep and tender my love and gratitude to 
you are! The older I grow, the more precious the Yerlialtnus [re- 
lation] to a mother becomes to me, and how doubly so to you! 
Louis feels as I do ; his love to j'ou has always been as to his own 



ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 181 

mother; and my tears besjin to run, whenl recall your dear face and 
voice, which to see and hear again has seemed so natural, so — as it 
out^ht to be! that it is quite difficult to accustom myself to the 
thought that only in memory can I enjoy them now. 

How I do love you, sweet Mamma! There is no sacrifice 1 would 
not make for you: and as our meetings are of late years so fleeting 
and far bet ween, when they are over, 1 feel the separation very 
much. . . . 

Marlborough House : June 15. 
. . . God bless you, my precious Mother, watch over and guard 
you; and let your blessing and motherly interest accompany us and 
our cliildren ! Louis' tenderest love; many, many kisses from all 
children, and William's respectful duty! 

Kranichstein : June 20. 
. . . K\l Victoria and Ella tell me of their stay at Balmoral — the 
many things you gave them and their people — touches me so much: 
let me thank you so many limes again. I feel 1 did not half say 
enough, but you know 7iow mucJi I feel it ! 

Our journey did very well; no one was ill, after that dreadful 
storm — a piece of luck. Tou are now again at Windsor. How 
much I think of you and of dear Beatrice ! 

July 10. 
. . . We got home from Carlsruhe at eleven o'clock last night. 
We went there on Thursday; arrived al two; were received there 
by Fritz and Louise and the Emperor; found dear Marie Leiningen 
and Hermann and Leopoldine there. Fritz W . arrived half an hour 
afterward from Vienna, having met with a railway accident in tbe 
night; but he was, thank God, unhurt — barely shaken. 

it was frightfully hot! Family dinner at five; then a drive about 
the town, which was decked with flags. At nine in the evening a 
large soiree and continual circle! and supper — such a heat! At eight 
next morning in gala, church service. Fritz (son) for the first time 
in uniform with the Black Eagle; then at ten a very fine parade, in 
which Fritz rnarched past as second lieutenant with his regiment. 
The troops were so fine; the Emperor led his own regiment past, 
and it was a very moving sight, with a great deal of cheering. At 
two, there was a large banquet, at which Fritz made a beautiful 
speech, and the Emperor a very good answer. 

All Fritz's (son) former school-fellows, and the ditferent schools 
and masters, came by in procession, and the day was very fatiguing. 
He is such a good boy. His former tutor, who finished his task of 
education yesterday, said to me: " Er ist ein gute?' Mensch und die 
Wahrheit selber " [He is a good man, and truth itself]. He was 
very self-possessed, modest, and civil, talking to everyone. He is 
full of promise, and has been carefully and lovingly brought up by 
his parents, who are such excellent people. I have the greatest re- 
gard for them. 

I told the Emperor the frie:ht we had about the war. He was 
much distressed, that anyone could believe him capable of such a 
thing; but our Fritz and Fritz of Baden agree that, with Bismarck, 
in spite of the nation not wishing it, he might brmg about a war at 
any moment. Our Fritz spoke so justly and reasonably— quite anti- 



183 ALICE, GEAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

■war— and I told him all the opinions 1 had gathered and heard in 
London; and he was much grieved and worried, I could see; but it 
must and can be prevented, if all are against it, 1 am sure. This 
enormous and splendid army, ready at any moment, is a dangerous 
possession for any country. . . . 

Kranichstein : October 7. 
. . . To-day my eyes will not remain dry; the recollection of 
five years ago, which brought us joy and promise of more in our 
sweet second boy, is painlul in the extreme. The sudden ending of 
that young life; the gap this has left; the recollections that are now 
but to be enjoyed in silent memory, will leave a heart-ache and a 
sore place, beside where there is much happiness and cause of grati- 
tude. The six children and we, with endless flowers and tears, 
decked his little grave this morning, and some sad lines of Byron's 
struck me as having much truth in the pain of such moments— 

But when I stood beneath the fresh green tree 

Which living waves where thou didst cease to live, 

And saw around me the wide field revive 

With fruits and fertile promise, and the Spring 

Come forth her work of gladness to contrive. 

With all her reckless birds upon the wing, 

I turned from all she brought, to those she could not bring.* 

The weather is fine; it was much like this five years ago, but 
round Metz it rained. Louis was turning into quarters with his 
troops from a sortie, and he called the news out to the regiments as 
he rode along, and they gave a cheer for their little Prince! 

It was a dreadful time of trial and separation for both of us, and 
Frittie was such a comfort and consolation to me in all my loneliness. 

How sorry I am for poor Alix at this long separation 1 f For her 
sake I grieve at the impossibility of her accompanying him. 

We hope to get back to our house by the 19th, though there will 
be an end of nice walks for the next eight months — the town grows 
so, and is all railroad and coal-heaps where we had our walks for- 
merly, and the town pavement in the streets is most unpleasant 
walking, . . . 

Schloss Kranichstein : October 16. 
For. our dear letter and for the inclosures I am so grateful, but 
distressed beyond measure at dear Fanny's [Lady Frances Baillie]. 
1 had a long letter from her some weeks back, when she was more 
hopeful about dear Augusta [Stanley]. This is too much sorrow 
for them all ! Fanny I love as a sister, and dear Augusta's devotion 
and self-sacrifice to you, and even to us in those dreadful years, was 
something rare and beautiful. Her whole soul and heart were in 
the duty, which to her was a sacred one. The good, excellent Dean! 
My sympathy is so great with these three kind and good people so 
sorely tried. 1 grieve for you, too ! God help them ! 

October 36. 
How sorry I am for dear good old Mrs. Brown and for her 

* Childe Harold, canto iii. stanza 30. 

+ During the visit of the Prince of Wales to India. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 183 

sons. * Please say something sympathizing from me; her blindness 
Is such a tiial, poor soul, at that age. How gloomily life must close 
for her ! 



1876. 

Although this new year brought no actual change to the usual 
routine of the daily life in the Princess's home, and although the 
Princess was able to fulfill her social duties, traces of serious illness 
now began to show themselves by repeated attacks of exhaustion and 
Aveakness. These attacks were partially relieved by a short stay in 
the Black Forest in June, and by a visit to England and Scotland, 
which she made without her husband. The Prince had been de- 
tained in Germany by the great maneuvers, on the conclusion of 
which he fetched her from England, in the autumn. On their way 
back to Darmstadt they stopped at Brussels. They also visited 
Coblenz, to pay their respects to the Empress of Germany, who had 
been to see their children at Darmstadt in October. 



January 18, 1876. 

'No words can express how deep my sympathy and grief is for 
what our dear Augusta and the Dean have to go through. With 
her warm, large heart, which ever lived and suffered for others, 
liow great must her pain be in having to leave him ! 1 can positively 
think of nothing else lately, as you know my love for Augusta, the 
General [her brother, General Bruce] and Fanny has always been 
great; and when 1 think back of them in former times, and in the 
year 1861, my heart aches and my tears flow — feeling what you and 
we shall lose in dear Augusta. My pity for the dear good kind Dean 
is so deep. 1 sent him a few words again to-day, in the hope he may 
still say a few words of love and gratitude to dear Augusta from me. 

Darmstadt: January 22. 

. . . Yesterday morning Ernie came in to me and said, " Mam- 
ma, 1 had a beautiful dream; shall I tell you? 1 dreamt that I was 
dead and was gone up to Heaven, and there 1 asked God to let me 
have Frittie again; and he came to me and took my hand. You 
were in bed, and saw a great light, and were so frightened, and 1 
said, " It is Ernie and Frittie." "You were so astonished! The next 
night Frittie and I went with a great light to sisters. " Is it not 
touching? He says such beautiful things, and has such deep poetic 
thought, yet with it all so full of fun and romping. 

February 9. 

. . . I am SO sorry and shocked about excellent Mr. Harrison. f 
What a loss ! He was so obliging and kind always in the many com- 

* Her husband, the father of the Queen's personal attendant, John Brown, 
bad just died. See More Leaves from a Journal. 
+ Secretary in the oflfice of the Privy Purse. 



184 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

missions for us children. Poor Krauslach,* too — so sad! It is too 
grievous; how one well-known face — with its many associations — 
after another, is called away; and on looking back, how short a space 
of time they seem to have filled! 

Wolfach : June 7. 
. . . The heat here is excessive ; the wild flowers covering every 
field are more beautiful than I have ever seen them anywhere — such, 
quantities of large forget-me-nots. The streams are very much like 
Scotch ones; the valleys are partly verj^ narrow, and the hills wooded 
to the very top— rather like the Thiiringer Wald, but more diffeient 
greens: such lovely coloring. 1 admire the country so much. 

Darmstadt : June 83. 
. . . How sorry I am for good kind old Mrs., Brown — to be 
blind with old age seems so hard, so cruel; but 1 am sure with 
your so loving heart you have brightened her latter years in many 
kind ways. It is such a pleasure to do anything for the aged ; one 
has such a feeling of respect for those- who have the experience of 
a long life, and are nearing the goal. 

. . . Yesterday, again, the Emperor Alexander spoke to me, 
really rejoicing that the political complications were clearing peace- 
fully: " Dites S Maman encore une fois comme cela me rejouit, et 
de savoir comme c'est elle qui tient ^ la paix. Nous ne pouvons, 
nous ne voulons pas nous brouiller avec I'Angleterre. 11 faudrait 
gtre fou de penser^ Constantinople ou aux Indes!" He had tears 
in his eyes, and seemed so moved, as if a dreadful weight was beine: 
lifted ofi ; so happy for the sake of Marie and AflSie, too, that matters 
were mending. He showed me after dinner the buttons you gave 
him, spoke also so afiiectionately of Bertie. ... 1 thought of you — 
thirty-nine years of rule not to be envied, save for the service one 
can render one's country and the world in general in such an 
arduous position. 

Private individuals are, of course, far the best off — our privileges 
being more duties than advantages — and their absence would be no 
privation compared to the enormous advantage of being one's own 
master, and of being on equality with most people, and able to 
know men and the world, as they are, and not merely as they please 
to show themselves to please us. . . . 

Darmstadt : July 5. 
. . . We dined with Uncle Louis, the Emperor &c., and Grand 
Duke of Weimar, at Seeheim yesterday. The Emperor said he had 
written to you, but Prince Gortschakoti: seemed only half-happy, and 
said to me: " Franchement puis-je vous le dire, je desirerais voir 
I'Angleterre graude, forte, decidee dans la politique, comme I'etait 
Canning et les grands hommes d'etat que j'ai connus en Angleterre 
il y aquarante ans. La Russie est grande et forte; que I'Angleterre 
le soit aussi; nous n'avons pas besoin de faire attention ^ tons les 
petits. " He said we made our foreign policy and dispatches for the 
Blue Book, and not an open decided policy before the House of 
Commons and the world. It may interest you to hear this opinion, 
as it shows the temper of his policy. 

* The Prince Consort's head groom, who had come over with him to England. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 185 

September 5. 
It is long since 1 have felt sucli pain as the death (to me really- 
sudden and unexpected, in spite of the danger inherent in her case) 
of my good, devoted, kind Emily* has caused me. My tears won't 
cease. Louis, the children, the whole household, all mourn and 
grieve with me. She was singularly beloved, and richly deserved 
to be so. Her devotion and aftection to me really knew no bounds. 
I cannot think what it will be to miss her. 1 have never been served 
as she served me, and probably never shall be so again. It is a 
wrench that only those can estimate who knew her well — like poor 
Mary Hardinge. She came first in Emily's heart, and the loss for 
her is quite, quite irreparable! Had 1 but seen dear Emily again! 
This sudden, cruel sort of death shocks me so. 

How 1 should have nursed and comforted her had 1 been near 
her! She always wished this, and told me she had such a fear of 
death. There never breathed a more unselfish, generous, good 
character. 

September 6. 

... I fear you will find me so dull, tired, and useless. 1 can 
do next to nothing of late, and must rest so much. Poor Emily! 
My thoughts never leave her. 1 cannot yet get accustomed to the 
thought of her loss. 

P.S. — Just received your dear note. The accounts of my dear 
Emily's sad end have just reached me, and I am terribly upset. "You 
can hardly estimate the gap, the blank she will leave — my only lady, 
and in many ways liomme d'affaires. We had been so much together 
this last waiting; everything reminds me of her, and of the touching 
love she bore me. Surely some years more she would have lived. 

Darling Mamma, I don't think you quite know how far from 
well 1 am, and how absurdly wanting in strength. 1 only mention 
it, that you should know that until the good air lias set me up I am 
good for next to nothing; and I fear 1 sha'n't be able to come to din- 
ner the first evenings. I hope you won't mind. I have never in 
my life been like this before. 1 live on my sofa, and in the air, and 
see no one, and yet go on losing strength. Of course this unexpected 
shock has done me harm too, and has entailed more sad things. . . . 

Douglas's Hotel, Edinburgh: September 11, Sunday. 
... 1 hear Ernie is still so dull and melancholy at missing me; 
he always feels it most, with that tender loving heart of his. God 
preserve and guard this to me so inexpressibly precious child ! 1 
fancy that seldom a mother and child so understood each other, 
and loved each other, as we two do. It requires no words; he reads 
in my eyes, as 1 do in his what is in his little heart. 

It is so wonderfully still here, not a soul in the streets. The people 
of the house have sent up several times to inquire when and to what 
church 1 was going; so 1 shall go, as it seems to shock them, one's 
staying away. I shall see the Monument this afternoon, and go and 
see flolyrood again. The whole journey here brought back with 
the well-remembered scenery the recollection of my childhood, all 

* The Hon. Emily Caroline Hardinge, the Princess's Lady-in- Waiting, died in 
London on the 4th of September, 1876. 



186 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

the happy journeys with dear Papa and you. How the treasured 
remembrance, with the deep love, lives on, when all else belongs to 
the past 1 

I seem, in retaining here, so near you and him and former happy 
years, when my home was in this beloved country. No home in tJtie 
world can quite become what the home of one's parents and child- 
hood was. There is a sacredness about it, a feeling of gratitude and 
love for the great mercies one had there. You, who never left 
country, Oescfiwister [kindred], or home, can -scarcely enter into this 
feeling. 

In the hopes of meeting you soon, kissing your dear hands, with 
thanks for all goodness, and many excuses for having caused so 
much trouble. . . . 

Buckingham Palace : October 19. 
I was so sad at parting with j^ou yesterday. I could not half 
thank you for all your love and kindness during those weeks. But 
you know how deeply 1 feel it ; how truly grateful 1 am to you ; how 
happy and contented. 1 am to be allowed to be near you as in old 
days. Darling Mamma, once more, thousand thanks for all and for 
everything ! 
The journey went quite well, and I am not particularly tired. 

Buckingham Palace : November 19. 
Thousand thanks for your dear letter received this morning ! I 
feel leaving dear England, as always, though the pleasure of being 
near the children again is very great. 

Let me thank you once more from my heart, darling Mamma, for 
all your great kindness, and for having enabled me to do what was 
thought necessary and best. 1 return so much stronger and better 
than I came, in every way — refreshed by the pleasant stay in dear 
Balmoral with you, and then much better for the time here. 1 feel 
morally refreshed, too, with the entire change, the many interests to 
be met with here, which is always so beneficial, and will help me in 
every way when I get back to Darmstadt. AH this I have to thank 
you for, and do so most wannly. 

Louis, who, as you know, is full of love and affection for you, is 
very grateful for your kind words, and has likewise derived profit 
and enjoyment from his stay in England. 

. . . My color and strength have so much returned, that 1 do not 
doubt being well again this winter. 

I went with Dean Stanley to see Mr. Carlyle, who was most in- 
teresting, and talked for nearly an hour. Had 1 had time, 1 would 
have written down the conversation. The Dean said he would try 
and do so. 

With Louise 1 visited Mr. Motley also, who in his way is equally 
interesting, and has a great charm. . . . 

Darmstadt : November 26. 
Many thanks for your last letter from Balmoral, received yes- 
terday morning! I know you feel leaving the dear place, but with- 
out going away there is no Weidersehen [meeting again]. The hap- 
piness of our meeting with the dear children was very great on all 
sides — they eat me up ! 



ALICE, GEAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 187 

They had made wreaths over the doors, and had no end of things 
to tell me. We arrived at three, and there was not a moment's rest 
till they were all in bed, and I had heard the different prayers and 
hymns of the six, with all the little diiferent confidences they had to 
make. My heart was full of joy and gratitude at being with them 
once more, and 1 prayed God to make me fit to be their real friend 
and stay as long as they require me, and to have the insight into tlieir 
different characters to guide them aright, and to understand their 
different wants and feelings. This is so difiicult always. 

Victoria is immensely grown, and her figure is forming. She h 
changing so much— beginning to leave the child and grow into the 
girl.. I hear she has been good and desirous of doing what is right; 
and she has more to contend with than Ella, therefore double merit 
in any little thing she overcomes, and any self-sacrifice she makes. 

Ernie is very well, and his birthday was a great delight. Sweet 
Httle May is enchanting—" my %ceet heart," as she calls me. Aliky 
is very handsome and dear. 

Darmstadt : December 12. 
1 see this letter will just arrive on the 14th — day never to be 
forgotten ! How deepl}^ it is graven in my heart — with letters of 
blood; for the pain of losing Mm, and of witnessing your grief, waa 
as sharp as anything any child can go through for its beloved par- 
ents. Yet, God's mercy is to be found through all, and one learns 
to say " Thy will be done," hard though it is. . . . 



1877. 



The health of Prince Charles of Hesse (father of Prince Louis) 
had for some time past given cause for great anxiety. He had 
always suffered from violent headaches and a delicate throat. On 
the evening Of the llth of March he was seized with erysipelas, and 
died peacefully on the 20th. The Princess shared the grief of her 
mother-in-law and family most truly ; for Prince Charles, though 
outwardly shy and retiring, was a man of great cultivation and re- 
finement, and had made himself beloved by all who knew him. He 
was buried in the Mausoleum at the Rosenhohe on the 24th of 
I March, The Grand Duke, who was deeply affected by his brother's 
death, and all the family were present. 

A month had scarcely passed since Prince Charles' death when 
the Grand Duke himself was attacked by serious illness at Seeheim, 
one of his summer residences, near Darmstadt, and died on the 13th 
of June at the age of seventy-one. 

Prince Louis was the next heir, and ascended the throne as Grand 
Duke Louis IV. 

The total change of circumstances, the heavy duties and responsi- 
bilities of her new position, came most unexpectedly upon the Prin- 
cess, and she scarcely felt herself equal to them. With her well- 
known conscientiousness and high feeling of duty it was not surpris- 
ing that they weighed heavily upon her, more especially as her health 
Jiad of late become very delicate. Still, the hope of being able to 
carry out many a plan for the welfare of her adopted country en- 
couraged her greatly. 



188 ' ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

After the official receptions held by the Grand Duke and Grand 
Duchess were over, they left Darmstadt for the quiet little watering- 
place of Houlgate in ITormandy. The Gi'and Duke was only able 
to accompany the Grand Duchess as far as Metz, but he followed her 
later on with the children. The rest and quiet were good for them 
all; and, apparently much improved in health, the Grana Duchess 
returned for the first time as " mother of the country " {Landes- 
mutter] to Darmstadt. Her reception was of the warmest and most 
enthusiastic nature, which she took as a good omen for the future. 

The Emperor of Germany and the Crown Prince visited Darm- 
stadt at the end of September, for the purpose of assisting at the 
cavalry maneuvers, to the great satisfaction of the country. 

The change in Princess Alice's position in no wise affected her 
relations to her many charitable institutions, though she had of 
course many new responsibilities thrown upon her. Her constant 
endeavor was to be just and free from prejudice, to recognize what 
was good, no matter where, and to promote and further it to the 
best of her power. 

The Grand Duke and Grand Duchess saw much of the Crown 
Prince and Princess of Germanj-- during the latter part of the year, 
as they were living at Wiesbaden. 

Fraulein Louise Btichner, who had been for ten years so intimately 
connected with the Grand Duchess, not only as working with her 
for the good of others, but also by ties of the truest friendship, died 
on the 28th of November. Her death caused a gap which was sorely 
felt. A few days before her death, when she was already confined 
to her bed, she received a letter from the Grand Duchess herself, on 
the occasion of the tenth anniversary of the opening of the ' ' Alice 
Bazaar," thanking her for all she had done. 

The Grand Duchess had caused many of the pamphlets written 
by Miss Octavia Hill to be translated, in the hopes of encouraging in 
Darmstadt the authorities, and those at the head of private under- 
takings, to farther exertions for improving the condition of the poor. 

Whilst in England she had become acquainted with Miss Octavia 
Hill, " the warm-hearted friend of the poor," and had visited with 
her many of the poorer parts of London. She felt the sincerest ad- 
miration and respect for Miss Hill, and entirely shared her view, 
" that we must become the friends of the poor to be their benefac- 
tors. " The Grand Duchess did not wish to copy exactly in Ger- 
many what Miss Hill had done in London : but she hoped that the 
knowledge of what had been done in other places would be an in- 
centive to work in the same direction. 

At the beginning of this year ttie Grand Duchess had visited in 
strictest incognito the worst houses (in sanitary respects) inMayence, 
and determined to make a plan for the election of new dweUings for 
the working classes there. 



Darmstadt: Januaiy 1. 
. . . How beautifully Max Mliller's letter* is written and ex- 
pressed, and how touchingly and truly he puts the point of view on 

* Written after the death of his daughter. 



ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 189 

which we all should learn to stand. To become again pure as chil- 
dren, with a child's faith and trust — there where our human intel- 
lect will ever stand still ! 

I have been reading some of Robertson's sermons again, and 1 
think his view of Christianity one of the truest, warmest, and most 
beautiful 1 know. ... 

Darmstadt : Blarch 23. 
Thank you so much for your dear and sympathizing letter. 
These have been most painful — most distressing days — so harrowing. 

The recollections of 1861, of dear Frittie's death, when my dear 
father-in-law was so tender and kind, were painfully vivid. My 
mother-in-law's resignation and touching goodness, doing all that 
she could during the illness and since for all arrangements, is very 
beautiful ! 

The poor sons gave way to bursts of tears during those agonizing 
hours; yet they-held their father alternately with me, and were quiet 
and helpful for their mother and for him, just as their simple quiet 
natures teach them. 1 begged Bauerlein to write to you meanwhile. 
I am feeling so exhausted, and there is so much to do, and we are 
always going from one house to the other. 

It was heartrending from Monday morn till Tuesday eve, to see 
the painful alteration in the dear well-known features augmenting 
from hour to hour, though I believe he did not suffer latterly. He 
was not conscious, unless spoken to, or called very directly. 

My mother-in-law never left his bedside day or night, and we were 
only a few hours absent on Monday night. Before we went home, 
she called our names distinctly to him as Ave kissed him, and he 
seemed to notice it; then she knelt down, and distinctly, but choked 
with tears, prayed the Lord's Prayer for him, calling him gently. 

The next day at six we were there again, and till half-past .six in 
the evening never left the bedside. She repeated occasionally, as 
long as she thought he might hear, a short verse— s<? touching l' and 
once said, " Bist Du traurig? es ist ja nicht auf lange, dann sind 
wir wieder zusammen!" [" Art thou sad? It is not for long, and 
then we shall be together again "], kissing and stroking his hands. 
It was very distressing. 

When all was over we four were close to her, and she threw her- 
self on him, and then clasped her sons to her heart with words of 
such giief, as you so weil understand! 

Early the next morning we went with her to his room. He lay 
on his bed, very peaceful, in his uniform. Louis had clasped the 
hands together when he died, and 1 arranged flowers on the bed and 
in the room round him. 

There is a terrible deal to do and to arrange, and many people' 
come, and we are much with my poor molher-in-law. Yesterday 
afternoon we went for the last time, to see the remains of what had 
been so precious. She read a " Lied " [a hymn], and then kissed 
him so long, and took with us the last look. Yesterday evening the 
coffin was closed in presence of the sons. 

We are going to the RosenhShe [the Mausoleum] now, before 
going to Louis' mother, to put things straight there, and see if one 
can get by dear Frittie — it is so small. 

The three brothers are dreadfully upset, but able to arrange and 



190 ALICE, GRA.HD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

see after what is necessary. Aunt Marie [the Empress of Russia] 
wanted to come, and is in terrible distress; she loved that brother 
beyond anything. In her last letter to my mother-in-law she says, 
" Ich habe solohe Sehnsucht nach dem alien Bruder," [" I have 
such a yearning after my old brother "]. 

His nature was a singularly delicate-minded, pure, true, unselfish 
nature, so full of consideration for others, so kind. My tears flow 
incessantly, for I loved him very dearly. 

My dear mother-in-law has such a broken ruined existence now— 
all turned round him ! She knows where to find strength and com- 
fort — it will not fail her. ... 

Dai'mstaclt : June 7 
c . . We are going through a dreadful ordeal. The whole of 
Monday and Monday night, with a heat beyond words, dreading the 
worst. Now there has been a slight rally.* Whether it will con- 
tinue to-morrow is doubtful. He is always conscious, makes his lit- 
tle jokes, but the pulse is very low and intermits. 1 was there early 
this morning with Louis. ... 

The questions, long discussions between Louis and some people, 
as to complication and difficulty of every kind that will at once fall 
upon us are really dreadful, and 1 so unfit just nowl The confusion 
will be dreadful. ... 

I am so dreading everything, and above all the responsibility of 
being the first in everything, and people are not bienvdUant. 

1 shall send you news whenever 1 can, but 1 am so worn out. I 
shall not be able to do so much myself. 

I know your thoughts and wishes are with us at so hard a time. 
God grant we may do all aright I . . . 

Telegrams. 

June 7. 
Going to Seeheim, as great weakness has come on. Am much 
tired by all that lies before us, and not feeling well. 

Seeheim: 13th. 
Dear Uncle Louis is no more. We arrived too late. 

Darmstadt : 6 :20 o'clock, 13th. 
Such press of business and decisions. Feel very tired. 

15th. 
We are both so over- tired; the press of business and decisions is 
so wearing, with the new responsibility. 

18th. 

Last ceremony over! All went off well, and was very moving. 

Alice. 

Darmstadt : June 19. 
Only two words of thanks from both of us for your kind wishes 
and letters! Christian and Colonel Gardiner bring you news of 

* The Grand Duke of Hesse was alarmingly ill. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 191 

everything that has been and is still going on. But we are over- 
whelmed, over-tired, and the heat is getting very bad again. 

. . . "Will tell you what a very difficult position we are in. It is 
too dreadful to think that I am forced to leave Louis in a few weeks 
under present circumstances, but, if he wishes to keep me at all, 1 
must leave' everything and this heat for a time. These next weeks 
here will be veiy anxious and difficult. God grant we may do the 
right things! 

June 28. 

... To have to go away just now, when the refreshment of 
family life is so doubly pleasant to Louis after his work, 1 am too 
sorry for. If I were only better; if I only thought that I shall have 
the chance of rest, and what is necessary to regain my health! Now 
it will be more difficult than ever, and I see Louis has the fear, 
which I also have, that I shall not hold out very long. 

July 15. 
... 1 leave on Tuesday, but stop on the way. The children 
go direct and join me in Paris, when we go on together on. Friday 
or Saturday to Houlgate. The trains don't fit, and one has some 
way to drive from Trouville. 

Houlgate : July 25, 
. . , This place is quite charming — real country, so green, so 
picturesque — a beautiful coast; the nicest sea -pi ace I have been at 
yet. Our house is " wee " for so many, and the first days it was 
very noisy; and it was so dirty. The maids and nurses had to scrub 
and sweep; the one French housemaid was not up to it. All is bet- 
ter now, and quite comfortable enough. The air is doing me good, 
and the complete change. 1 have bathed twice, and the sea revives 
me. 

I follow as eagerly as any in England the advance of the Rus- 
sians, and with cordial dislike. They can never be redressers of 
wrongs or promoters of civilization and Christianity. What 1 fear 
is, even if they don't take Constantinople, and make no large de- 
mands as the price of their victories now, the declaration of the in- 
dependence of Bulgaria will make that country to them in future 
what Roumania has been for Russia now, and therefoie in twenty 
years hence they will get all they want, unless the other Powers at 
this late hour can bring about a change. It is bad for England, for 
Austria, for Germany, if this Russian Slav element should prepon- 
derate in Europe; and the other countries must sooner or later act 
against this in self-preservation. 

"What do the friends of the " Atrocity Meetings " say now? How 
difficult it has been made for the Government through them, and 
how blind they have been! All this must be a constant worry and 
anxiety for you ! 

The children are so happy here— the sea does them such good. I 
am very glad 1 brought them. 

Houlgate : July 88. 
. . . Though we have rain off and on, still the weather is very 
pleasant, and we are all of us charmed wilh the place, and the 
beautiful, picturesque, fertile country. Tlie life is so pleasant — real 



192 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE., 

country — whicli 1 have never yet found at any bathing-place abroad 
yet. I have bathed every other day — swim, and it does me good. I 
feel it already. Ella is getting her color back, and the little ones 
look much better. 

1 send you the last photos done of the children ; Ella's is not favor- 
able, nor Irene's, but all in all they are a pretty set. May has not 
such fat cheeks in reality; still it is very dear. The two little girlies 
are so sweet, so dear, merry and nice. 1 don't know whicJi is 
dearest, they are both so captivating. 

1 have been to an old tumble-down church at Dives — close by here 
— where William the Conqueror is said to have been before starting 
for England. His name and those of all his followers are inscribed 
there — names of so manj^ families now existing in England. It was 
very interesting. 

August 82. 

. . . How difficult it is to know one's children well; to develop 
and train the characters according to their different peculiarities and 
requirements! ... 

Darmstadt : September 9. 

. . . 1 must tell you now, how very heartily and enthusiastically 
the whole population, high and low, received us yesterday. It was 
entirely spontaneous, and, as such, of course so very pleasing. . . . 
1 was really touched, for it rained, and yet all were so joyous — 
flags out, bells ringing, people bombarding us with beautiful nose- 
gays; all the schools out, even the higher ones, the girls all dressed 
in white. The Kriegerverein, Louis' old soldiers, singing, &c. In 
the evening all the Gesangvereine joined together and sung under 
our windows. 

"We are very glad to be at home again; and, please God, with 
earnest will and thought for others, we together shall in our dilfer- 
ent ways be able to live for the good of the people intrusted to our 
care! May God's blessing rest on our joint endeavors to do the 
best, and may we meet with kindness and forbearance where we fall 
short of our duties ! 

Darmstadt: October 30. 

... 1 had to receive sixty five ladies — amongst them my nurses 
—and some doctors from here and other towns, all belonging to my 
Nursing Society, which has now existed ten years. Then 1 M'as at 
the opening of my Industrial Girls' School, where girls from all 
parts of the country come, and which is a great success. 1 started 
it two years ago. On Sunday 1 took the children to hear the Sun- 
day school, which interested them very much. 

1 have been doing too much lately, though, and my nerves are 
beginning to feel the strain, for sleep and appetite are no longer 
good. Too much is demanded of one; and 1 have to do with so 
many things. It is more than my strength can stand in the long 
run. . . o 

December 13. 

For to-morrow, as ever, my tenderest sympathy ! Time shows 
but more and more what we all lost in beloved Papa; and the older 
1 grow, the more people I know, the more the remembrance of him 
shines bright as a star of purer luster than any 1 have ever known. 
May but a small share of his light fall on some of us, who have 



ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. ^ 193 

remained so far beneath him, so little worthy of such a father! We 
can but admire, reverence, long to imitate, and yet not approach near 
to what he was ! 

We are going with the children to-day to Wiesbaden until Satur- 
day; and 1 mean to tell Vicky that she had better give up the hope 
of my being able to come for the wedding.* 1 could not do it. 1 
only trust the why will be understood. Do write to the dear Em- 
press about it when next you write Hoio sorry 1 am to be absent at 
a moment when, as sister and a German Sovereign's wife, 1 should 
be there; but the doctor would not hear of it, so \ gave it up. , . . 

Darmstadt : December 21. 
. . . You say all that happened after the dreadful l4th is 
effaced from your memory. How well lean imagine that! I re- 
member saying my utmost to Sir Charles Phipps in remonstrance to 
your being wished to leave Windsor— it was so cruel, so very 
wrong. Uncle Leopold insisted; it all came from him, as he was 
alarmed lest j^ou should fall ill. 

How you suffered was dreadful to witness: never shall 1 forget 
what 1 went through for you then; it tore my heart in pieces; and 
my own grief was so great, too. Louis thought 1 would not hold to 
*my engagement then any more — for my heart was too filled with 
beloved, adored Papa, and with your anguish, to have room or wish 
for other thoughts. 

God is very merciful in letting time temper the sharpness of one's 
grief, and letting sorrow find its natural place in our hearts, without 
withdrawing us from life ! 



TEE END. 

1878. 
" Life is serious— a journey to another end" {Dec. ISOt, 1874). 

1878. 

The state of the Grand Duchess's health prevented her from 
accompanying the Grand Duke to Berlin on the occasion of the mar- 
riages of Princess Charlotte of Prussia (eldest daughter of the 
Crown Prince and Princess of Germany) to the Hereditary Prince 
of Saxe Meiningen, and of Princess Elizabeth of Prussia (sister to 
the Duchess of Connaught) with the Hereditary Grand Duke of 
Oldenburg. Although she was unable to go out much into society, 
or to take an active part in social gayeties, her interest and sympathy 
were unabated, particularly in all matters concerning art and science. 
She received many guests, and Prince William of Prussia (then 
studying at Bonn) often visited her. 

The celebrated portrait-painter Heinrich von Angeli came to Darm- 

* Of the Princess Charlotte of Prussia with the Hereditary Prince of Saxe- 
Meiningeu. 

7 



194 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

stadt in the spring to paint a family picture of the Grand Duke and 
Grand Duchess and their children by command of the Queen of Eng- 
land. Princess Alice greatly enjoyed his acquaintance, and was 
charmed as well by his musical talent as by his wonderful genius in 
painting. Angeli's picture of Princess Alice was the last ever 
painted of her. 

The repeated attempts on the life of the old Emmperor of Germany 
affected the Grand Duchess very nearly, as from her childhood she 
had ever been greatly attached to him. 

The Grand Duke and Grand Duchess with their children spent the 
summer months of this year at Eastbourne. Sea bathing and sea air 
had again been recommended as necessary. 

The Grand Duke had to return to Darmstadt soon after their arrival 
at Eastbourne, but toward the end of the stay there he rejoined 
them. 

The whole family visited the Queen at Osborne. 

Although the Grand Duchess had during all her former visits to 
England, shown her lively personal interest in all charitable institu- 
tions in London, visiting many herself, she seems on the occasion of 
this, her last, visit to her beloved native land, to have taken a more 
than ordinary interest in these matters, and to have also gone mi 
nutely into the subject of the exertions which were being made to 
relieve the pressing wants of the poor. 

The Grand Duchess had scarcely arrived at Eastbourne (an eye- 
witness tells us), when she at once made inquiries as to the condition 
of the poorer parts of that town, and deteruiined to visit them her- 
self. Hhe loved to wander about that part of Eastbourne which is 
inhabited bj'^ the fishing population. She often entered their cot- 
tages, visiting the sick, and showing her sympathy to all. The 
visits to the Sunday School were a great pleasure to her. The 
Princess often remarkedj "' how much good such instruction must 
do." 

She' attended divine service at a church some little way off, not 
because the service was particularly attractive, but because the 
church and its congregation needed support and help. . 

Amongst those good works which from year 1o year had specially 
occupied her were the Refuges and Penitentiaries for those poor 
women and girls who must need our help. Much had been done in 
this way in England, and the Albion Home at Brighton, founded 
and managed solely by Mrs. Murray Vicars, had proved of the great- 
est service and blessing. The Grand Duchess invited Mrs. Yicars 
to come and see her at Eastbourne and tell herself about her work, 
and showed her, when she came, the great sympathy and kindness 
entering with the warmest interest into all details of the working of 
the Home. 

Before leaving Eastbourne the Grand Duchess went incognita to 
Brighton, and paid a private visit to the Albion Home. " I only 
come as one woman to visit another," were the Princess Alice's own 
words, when Mrs. Vicars begged her to be allowed to tell the poor 
Penitents who their visitor was. 

The Grand Duchess was greatly impressed, after her visit to the 
Home, by Mrs. Vicars' wonderful power and practical knowledge, 
and by her gentle, loving way toward those poor girls; and this in a 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. ' 195 

great measure induced her, with the Grand Duke's consent, to be- 
come Patroness of the Albion Home. At first, when asked by Mrs. 
Vicars to becomes the Patroness, she had refused to do so; but, 
having reconsidered the subject^ slie wrote to her the following 
letter from Darmstadt>— 

New Palace, Darmstadt. 
" Dear Mrs. Vicars,— I have returned from visiting the Home 
so convinced of your excellent management of it in every respect, 
that, if you still feel my becoming Patroness of the Home (and of the 
Ladies' Association connected with it) can further the good and 
noble work, I am most willing to comply with your request. The 
spirit of true, loving. Christian sj-mpathy in which the work was 
bgun by you, and with which it is carried out ; the cheertulness you 
impart, the motherly solicitude you offer to those struggling to retui-n 
to a better life, cannot fail to restore in a great measure that feeling 
of self-respect so necessary to those voluntarily seeking once more a 
virtuous life, and by so doing regaining the respect of their fellow 
creatures. " Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least of 
these my brethren, ye have done it unto Me. " In this spirit may the 
Home, as well as the Association connected with it, continue itsgood 
work- My entire sympathy and good wishes will ever be with it. 

" Ever yours truly, 

"Alice.'' 

After the Grand Duchess's return to Darmstadt, she devoted her- 
self with redoubled energy to all her charitable institutions ; but, 
alas! she felt more and more that her bodily strength was no longer 
equal to her exertions. 

In the autumn she had the happiness of seeing several of her fam- 
ily at Darmstadt, the last of them being her brother. Prince Leo- 
pold. 



Darmstadt : January 26. 
Though I have no letter, and expect none at such a moment, 
still I must send you a few lines to tell you how constantly I think 
of you, and of mj^ own beloved and adored countiy. The anxiety 
you must be going through, and the feelings you must experience, 1 
share with my whole heart. . . . 

God grant it may be possible to do the right thing, for it is late, 
and the complication is dreadful! 

1 have barely any thoughts for anything else; and the Opposition 
seems to me to have been more wrong in its country's interest, and 
to have done her a greater harm than can ever be redressed. It is a 
serious, awful moment for Sovereign, country, and Government; 
and in your position none have to go through what you have — and 
after all so alone ! 

I hope your health bears up under the anxiety. 

April 9. 
. . , Angeli has arrived, and will begin at once. "We thought 
Ernie and Ella— Victoria is too big, though she is the eldest and 
ought to be in the picture; she would be too preponderant. Angeli 



196 ALICE, GRAHD DUCHESS OF HESSE.. 

is quite lost in admiration of Aliky and May, who are, 1 must say 
myself, such a lovely little pair as one does not often see. He will 
begin our heads to-morrow, ... 

Darmstadt: November 6. 
... 1 am but very middling, and leading a very quiet life, 
which is an absolute necessity. It is so depressing to be like this. 
But our home life is always pleasant — never dull, however quiet. 
Only a feeling of weariness and incapacity is in itself a trial. 

On the 8th of November Princess Victoria was suddenly attacked 
with diphtneria. How and where she caught the illness remains 
unexplained. The Grand Duchess, always so courageous in illness, 
and fearing none, had, however, always had a great horror of 
diphtheria." Princess Victoria was at once isolated from her family 
and the others in the house; but, alas! to no purpose. Princess 
Alice superintended the nursing, aided by the nurses and the Lady 
Supermtendent of her hospital. The terrible anxiety of the poor 
mother during that illness is best described by her own telegrams 
and letters to the Queen. , 

Telegram. November 8. 

Victoria has diphtheria since this morning. The fever is high, 
1 am so anxious,' 

Telegram. November 10. 

Victoria is out of danger. 

Telegram. November 13. 

This night my precious Aliky has been taken ilL 

Darmstadt •, November 12. 
This is dreadful i my sweet, precious Aliky so ill! At three 
this morning Orchie called me, saying she thought the child was 
feverish ; complaining of her throat. I went over to her, looked into 
her throat, and there were not only spots, but a thick covering on 
each side of her throat of that horrid white membrane, 1 got the 
steam inhaler, with chlorate of potash for her at once, but she was 
very unhappy, poor little thing. We sent for the doctor, who lives 
close by, and who saw at once that it was a severe case. We have 
put her upstairs near Victoria, who is quite convalescent, and have 
fumigated the nursery to try and spare May and the others. It is a 
terrible anxiety; it is such an acute, and often fatal, illness. . . . 
Victoria has been graciously preserved : may God preserve these [the 
younger ones] also in His mercy! My heart is sore; and 1 am so 
anxious. 

Telegram. November 13. 

Aliky tolerable. Darling May very ill; fever so high. IrSne has 
got it too. 1 am miserable; such fear for the sweet little one! 

On the 14th of November Prince Ernest and the Grand Duke were 
attacked with diphtheria, so that, up to that time. Princess Elizabeth 
only had escaped the infection. She was sent to her Graildffi0tbpi''8, 
Pjincess Cbfirles of Hesse's, palp,ce, 



ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 397 

Telegram. November 15. 

My precious May no better; suffers so much. 1 am in such 
lionibie fear. Irene and Ernie, fever less. Ernie's throat very 
swelled. Louis no worse; almost no spots. Aliky recovering. 

Evening:. 
Darling- May's state unchanged; heartrending. Louis' fever 
and illness on the increase. The others, as one could expect; all 
severe cases. May's most alarming. 

The sympathy with the Grand Duchess in her great anxiety was 
univereal. In many of the churches special services were held, pray- 
ing for the recover}^ of that dearly beloved family. The well-known 
suffering state of the Grand Duchess's own health, so sorely tried 
at this moment, caused the gravest fears to be entertained on her 
own accoimt. 

On the morning of the 16th of November sweet little Princess 
"May" — the Princess's "sunshine " as she ever called her — was 
taken from her doting pareats. The Grand Duchess telegraphed as 
follows to hei' mother >-* 

November 16. 
. . . Oul- sweet little one is taken. Broke it to my poor Louis 
this morning; he is better; Ernie very, very ill. In great anguish. 

Telegram. November 16 ; evening. 

The pain is beyond words, but " God's will be done!" Our 
precious Ernie is still a source of such terrible fear. The others, 
though not safe, better. 

Telegram. November 17. 

Ernie decidedly better; full of gratitude. 

Telegram. November 18. 

My patients getting better; hope soon to have them better. 
Last painful parting at three o'clock. 

The coflBn had to be closed very soon. It was entirely covered 
with flowers. The Grand Duchess quietly entered the room where 
it had been placed. Siie knelt down near it, pressing a corner of 
the pall to her lips; then she rose, and the funeral service began. 

When it was over, she cast one long, loving look at the coflBn 
which hid her darling from her. She then left the room and slowly 
walked upstairs. At the top of the stairs she knelt dowm, and tak- 
ing hold of the golden balustrade, looked into the mirror opposite to 
her to watch the little coffin being taken out of the house. She was 
marvelouslj^ calm ; only long-drawn sighs escaped her. 

When all had left the palace, she went to the Grand Duke, who 
was to be kept in ignorance of all that was going on. The Grand 
Duchess had herself arranged every detail of the funeral. 

Telegram., November 19. 

The continued suspense almost beyond endurance. Ernie thought 
he was going to die in the night, and was in a dreadful state for some 



198 AJAGE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

hours. Louis very nervous, too; but they are not worse. The six 
cases have been one worse than the other. 

La(;er, November 19. 
Ernie had a relapse, and our fears are increased. I am in an 
agony between hope and fear. 

The Grand Duchess desired her warmest thanks to be expressed to 
the country for their heartfelt sympathy. 

On the 25th of November the Grand Duke was able for tne first 
time to leave his bed for a few hours, and on the 6th of December 
he and Prince Ernest drove out for the first time in a shut carriage. 

It was on this day that the Grand Duchess wrote for the last time 
to the Queen. 

No-vember 19. 

Beloved Mamma,— Tender thanks for your dear, dear letter, 
soothing and comforting! 

Our sweet May waits for us up there, and is not going through 
our agony, thank God! Her bright, happy, sunshiny existence has 
been a bright spot in our lives— but oh! how short! I don't touch 
on the anguish that fills me, for God in His mercy helps me, and it 
must be borne; but to-day again, the fear and anxiety for Ernie is 
still greater. This is quite agonizing to me; how 1 pray that he may 
be spared to me ! 

His voice is so thick; new membranes have appeared. He cries 
at times so bitterly, but he is gayer just now. 

To a mother's heart, who would spare her children every pain, to 
have to witness what I have, and am still doing, knowing all these 
precious lives hanging on a thread, is an agony barely to be con- 
ceived, save by those who have gone through it. 

. , Your letter says so truly all I feel. I can but say, in all 
one's agony there is a mercy and a peace of God, which even now 
He has let me feel. . . , 

P, S. — I mean to try and drive a little this afternoon. I shall go 
out with Orchie, Of my six children, since a week none more about 
me, and not my husband. It is like a very awful dream to me. 

November 22. 

Beloved Mamma, — Many thanks for your dear letter, and for 
all the expressions of sympathy shown by so many! 1 am very grate- 
ful for it. 

Dear Ernie having been preserved through the greatest danger is a 
source of such gratitude ! These have been terrible days ! He sent 
a book to May this morning. It made me almost sick to smile at 
the dear boy. But he must be spared yet awhile what to him will 
be such a sorrow. 

For myself, darling Mamma, God has given me comfort and help 
in all this trouble, and I am sure His Spirit will remain near us in 
the trials to come! Great sympathy, such as all show, is a balm; 
but 1 am very tired, and the pain is often very great; but pain can 
be turned into a blessing, and 1 pray this may be so. . . . 

When alone, 1 rest; and writing even is a physical exertion. Those 



ALICE. ORAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 199 

around me have spared me all they could, but one must bear the 
greater weight one's self. 

May God spare you 'all future sorrow, and give you the peace 
which He alone can give 1 

P.S, — 1 finish these lines at my dear Louis' bed. Tie thanks you 
so much for your dear loving sympathy. Thank God, he is doing 
well. But the pain they have all gone through in their poor throats 
has been aioful. The doctors and nurses— eight ! for they have 
changed day and night, and had such conslaut attendance — have 
been all I could wish." 

Tour loving child, Alice. 

Darmstadt: December 1. 

. . . Everyone shows great sympathy, 1 hear, everywhere. . . . 
All classes have shown a great attachment to us personally, and to 
the House, and amongst the common people — it goes home to them 
that our position does not separate us so very far from them, and that 
in death, danger, and sorrow the palace and the hut are visited alike. 
So many deep and solemen lessons one learns in these times, and 
r believe all wojks together for good for those who believe in 
God. . . . 

December 2. 

So many pangs and pains come, and must yet for years to come. 
Still, gratitude for those left is so strong, and indeed resignation en- 
tire and complete to a higher will ; and so we all feel together, and 
encourage each other. Life is not endless in this wm-ld, God be 
praised! There is much joy — but oh! so much trial ana pain; and, 
as the number of those one loves increases in Heaven, it makes our 
passage easier — and home is there ! 

Ever your loving childj 

Alice. 

December 6. 

Louis and Ernie Tvill go out in a shut carriage to-day, though it 
rains — but it is warm. Louis' strength returns so slowly. Of course 
he shuns the return to life, where our loss will be more realized; to 
him, shut off so long, it is more like a dream. I am so thankful 
they were all spared the dreadful realities 1 went through — and 
alone. My cup seemed very full, and yet 1 have been enabled 1o 
bear it. But daily 1 must struggle and pray for resignation; it is a 
cruel pain, and one that will last years, as 1 know but too well. 

Ever your loving child, 

A, 

Amongst the last letters from the Grand Duchess is one written on 
the 6th of December, instructing Prince Ernest's new tutor in his 
duties. Princess Alice wished her sou to become a truly good man 
in every sense of the word — upright, truthful, courageous, unselfish, 
ready to help others, modest and retiring. She wished his tutor to 
encourage in him fear of God and submission to His will, a high 
sense of dutj^ a feeling of honor and of truth. 

It had been settled that as soon as the convalescent patients were 



200 ALICE, GRIND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

able to be moved, tlie whole Grand Ducal family should go to Hei- 
delberg for thorough, change of air. 

On the 7th of December the Grand Duchess went to the railway 
station to see the Duchess of Edinburgh, who was passing through 
Darmstadt on her way to England. That night she first com- 
plained of feeling ill; and on the following morning the unmistaka- 
ble symptoms of diphtheria had begun to show themselves. It is sup- 
posed that she must have taken the infection, when one day, in her 
grief and despair,' she had laid her head on her sick husband's pil- 
low. During the first day of her illness she settleU several things, 
and gave various orders in case of her death. Still it was evident 
that she thought she would recover. 

She bore her great sufferings with wonderful patience, and was 
most obedient to everything the doctors ordered her to do, however 
painful and trying. Those were terrible days ! How much so to 
her is apparent from short sentences which from time to time she 
wrote down on slips of paper. Everything was done to alleviate her 
sufferings — everything to encourage her. The high fever which set 
in at the commencement of the illness did not decrease on the third 
day as in the previous cases, though her sufferings were perhaps not 
so great. At times she was very restless and distressed. In the 
night of the 12th of December she gave many directions to her 
mother-in-law, and to her lady-in-waiting. At times, too, she spoke 
in the most touching manner about her household, also inquiring 
kindly after poor and sick people in the town. Then followed hours 
of great prostration. 

On the morning of the 13th of December the doctors could no 
longer disguise from the Grand Duke that their efforts to save that 
beloved itfe were in vain. As the danger increased, the Grand 
Duchess expressed herself as feeling better. She received her moth- 
er-in-law that afternoon in the most affectionate manner; also saw 
her lady-in-waiting; and when the Grand Duke entered her room 
her joy was most evident. She even read two letters— the last one 
being from her mother. After some hours of heavy sleep she woke 
perfectly conscious and took some nourishment. She then com- 
posed herself to rest, saying, " Now I will go to sleep again." And 
out of this sleep she woke no more. 

Shortly after 1 a.m., on the 14th of December, a change took 
place which left no doubt to those around that that precious life was 
fast ebbing away. When, a little later on. Princess Charles went 
into the Grand Duke's room, who was then asleep, she had left the 
Grand Duchess perfectly unconscious. It required no words of his 
mother's to break the news to him. 

At half past eight that morning Princess Alice died peacefully, 
murmuring to herself, like a child going to sleep, " From Friday to 
Saturday — four weeks — May — dear Papa — !'" 

It was exactly to the day four weeks since Princess May's death, 
and seventeen years since the death of the Prince Consort. On the 
following Tuesdajr evening, the 17th of December, after a solemn 
service held by the English chaplain, the remains of the beloved 
Princess were quietly removed from lier own palace to the chapel in 
the Grand Ducal Castle. The next clay, amidst the universal grief 
of high and low, the colHn was placed in the Mausoleum at the Ro- 



ALICE, GRAI<rD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 301 

senhfthe. Her brotliers, the Prince of Wales and Prince Leopold, 
were present. 

A beautiful recumbent monument by Boehm, representing the 
Princess holding Princess May in her arms, is now placed in the 
Mausoleum over the spot where she rests. 



GONGLUBING REMARKS. 

We must leave it to those who have read the preceding pages — 
mere chronicle of facts as they are — to form theh own idea of the 
character and personality of the Pi'incess. 

Still, the disjointed manner in which the whole subject has been 
treated seems to call for a few moi'e additional remarks. 

The world has long been acquainted with Ihe outward appearance 
of the Princess — with the delicacy of her features, the sweetness of 
their expression, and the dignity and gracefulness of her every 
movement. Though so perfectly natural and simple in manner, she 
never forgot tiiat she was a Princess. While she knew how to en- 
courage and draw out those who, from timidity, kept themselves in 
the background, she also understood how, in a moment, to check 
anything like forwardness, and, where necessary, to silence pre- 
sumption by a glance. 

Her conversation was bright and animated, passing from topic to 
topic, but always directed to subjects worth talking about. There 
was a certain distinction in the way she dealt even with minor mat- 
ters of daily life. She spoke German with a slightly foreign accent, 
but with a power of idiomatic expression that seldom failed her, and 
showed how thoroughly she had mastered the genius of the lan- 
guage. 

Occupation was a necessity to her: she could not understand how 
anyone could be idle. When at home, she always had some nee- 
dlework at hand ready to take up. 

The Princess was singularly free from all prejudice, and always 
endeavored to judge people according to their worth. 

It sometimes happened that she offended people by her independ- 
ent views, but she never knowii^gly hurt anybody's feelings; innate 
generosity was a striking trait in her character. 

Franlv and sincere herself to an unusual degree, she always en- 
couraged others to be the same, and was most tolerant of well- 
grounded contradiction. 

In times of trouble and danger, when so much was expected of 
her, her powers seemed to expand. It was in such moments that 
she really showed the master-spirit, which remains calm and sell- 
possessed when all around lose their heads. 

The Princess took the deepest interest in the personal welfare of 
all around her, even to the humblest of her servants. This interest 
was shown by many small services, seldom rendered to their serv- 
ants b}^ masters or mistresses. 

With all her appreciation of the purely theoretical and scientific 
aspect of things, she was naturally of a very practical two. of miud. 



303 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

She had few equals in her love and lalent for organizing, for com- 
muaicating her own ideas to those around her, and in turn being 
animated by the views of others. Thus it was that she expected not 
a little from those about her, and might almost have given the im- 
pression of a very restless nature, had not this activity been counter- 
balanced by an unceasing perseverance in carrying out and adhering 
to what she had once undertaken. 

To become acquainted with great men of every profession, 
whether scholars, artists, or men of science, was a real pleasure to 
her. She loved to gain an insight into tiieir thoughts and views, 
and proved herself a very German in her admiration and apprecia- 
tion of serious scientific work. 

Among the arts music and painting were those she loved the best, 
and cultivated the most. In both she was far ahead of even distin- 
guished amateurs. Her drawing was free, firm, and bold; she had a 
decided talent for composition, and was rich in inventive power. 
She had a wonderful eye for color, and was especially successful in 
water- colors. 

She was an excellent musician, and played extremely well. Few 
could read and understand ditticult pieces at sight as the Princess 
did. In music, as in all the arts, her taste was rather severe. She 
had a great predilection for the classical school. Bach, Beethoven 
and Schumann, Schubert, Mendelssohn and Brahms were her 
especial favorites. 

In theatrical performances she disliked empty show and splendor 
— the mere decoration of pieces for the love of decoration. She be- 
lieved in the ennobling influence of the representation of sound 
classical works. 

Her whole being mentally and morally was concentrated in her 
children and their education, and in this she showed herself to be a 
thorough woman. She endeavored to make them feel the worth 
and greatness of both the nations to which they belonged by birth. 
She was apt to be more severe in her criticisms of the German mode 
of education and of moral training than of that of her own country. 
That this should have been so is easily to be explained. In Germany 
her life and work were not easy, and she knew that it would take 
time before her endeavors for tlie welfare of her adopted country 
met with recognition, whilst in England, the country of her birth 
and her affection, to which she clung with ever-increasing reverence 
and devotion, she knew she was ever becoming more beloved. 

Still, being so thoroughly English as she was, we cannot but say 
that much that was best and finest in her character must be consid- 
ered as the inheritance of her German father. A nature such as the 
Princess's could not help coming into contact with many deep and 
serious questions, in which religion alone could help her. 

The traces of perfect trust in God, and entire submission to His 
will, will be found throughout her letters. We know that at one 
time she wavered in her convictions. Although she never doubted 
the value of practical religion, although she ever turned to her Bible 
for help and comfort in hours of distress and anxiety, she had to 
wrestle heart and soul with theoretical doubts. It seems to have 
been a struggle of many years' duration, at the commencement and 
end of which personal influences played a great part. 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 203 

We are indebted to an intimate friend and relation of Princess 
^lice's for the following communication, ■which is in accord with 
the observations of others who knew her: — 

" After her son's death 1 thought 1 observed a change in her feel- 
ings. Before that time slie had often expressed openly lier doubts 
as to the existence of God —had allowed herself to be led away by 
the free-tliinldng philosophical views of others. After Prince Fritz 
died she never spoke in such a way again." She remained silent 
while a transformation was quietly going on within, of which I after- 
ward was made aware, under the influence of some hidden powei. 
It seemed as if she did not then like to own the change that had 
come over her. 

" Borne time afterward she told me herself, is the most simple and 
touching manner, how this change had come about. 1 could not 
listen to her story without tears. The Princess told me she owed it 
all to her child's death, and to the influence of a Scotch gentleman, 
a friend of the Grand Duke's and the Grand Duchess's, who was 
residing with his family at Darmstadt. 

" ' 1 owe all to this kind friend,' she said, ' who exercised such a 
beneficial influence on my religious views; yet people say so much 
that is crusl and unjust of him, and of my acquaintance with him.' 
At another time she said, ' The whole edifice of philosophical con- 
clusions which 1 had built up for myself, I find to have no founda- 
tion whatever; nothing of it is left; it has crumbled away like dust. 
What should we be, what would become of us, if we had no faith, 
if we did not believe that there is a God who lules the world and 
each single one of us?' 'I feel the necessity of prayer; I love to 
sing hymns with my children, and we have each our favorite 
hymn. ' * 

" 1 remember observing that her table in her room was covered 
with religious books in all languages. Some of them she recom- 
mended to me." 

The German Protestant form of worship did not satisfy her. Her 
own English liturgy, with its fine simple prayers and benedictions, 
with its many appointed lessons from Holy Writ — the Old Testa- 
ment especially— with its sermons confined to a limited time, pleased 
her more. At the same lime she always acknowledged with grati- 
tude and admiration that the great spiritual hero who was the first 
to demand as a right absolute sincerity in the life of faith, and so 
brought on the Reformation, was a German. 

The Princess had a very wide knowledge of history. Her politi- 
cal opinions were independent, entirely free irom party prejudice, 
and based on the principle she had imbibed from her father— that 
Princes exist for the welfare of their people. 

Future generations must ever acknowledge how the Princess Alice 
throughout her life strove to fulfill the saying of her favorite hero in 
history, " the great Fritz " (Frederic the Great, inhh AnthnachiaDeU) : 
" The rulers of nations must set the example of virtue to the world. " 

* This raemoranduih does not go far enough. The Princess returned to the 
faith in which she was. reared, and died in it, a devout Christian, 



20,4 ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 



APPENDIX. 

[The beautiful sketch wliidi follows appeared in the DarmstacVer 
Zdt'ting, dated " Christmas Eve, 1878;" and the annexed translation 
of it, by Sir Theodore Martin, appeared a few days afterward in the 
Tillies.^ 

A WATCHER BY THE DEAD. 

Long, long before daybreak on one of those gloomy December 
days of last week an officer made his way hurriedly along the empty, 
silent streets of the capital. He was in full uniform, but its pomp 
and splendor were shrouded in a thick covering of crape, for ho was 
afoot thus early to do duty by the bier of the beloved Princess. 
Desolate were the streets, as of a city of the dead ; desolate as though 
tenanted only by the dead was the lordly palace to which he bent 
his steps. The sentinels at the great gate stood motionless, despite 
the severe cold, as if they feared to disturb the repose of death. 
Here, where the Inhabitants of the capital used to see all astir witti 
the busy, cheerful life inseparable from the residence of a reigning 
Prince; here, where indaj's but recently gone by children, blooming 
and beautiful, the country's pride and the joy of their princely 
parents, gave animation to house and garden, all was silent and void; 
a deadly blast had swept over the till now so happy home. The 
country's young, idolized mother had closed her beautiful eyes, 
closed them for evermore, after doing and enduring nobly, after tast 
ing the bitterness of great earthly sorrow. Many long and wof ul 
days, many nights of even greater anguish, had slie watched, 
trembled, and prayed by the couch of a husband sick unto death, 
and of five children beloved past telling. The sweet, youngest bud 
in the fair wreath of princely children had been torn from her bleed- 
ing heart, and tears — scalding tears — for the sweet little May -blossom, 
which she had herself put to its last sleep under chaplets of flowers, 
flowed fast, as she folded her hands in gratitude, when the peril of 
death had passed over the heads of her husband and her other chil- 
dren. " Thus do we learn humility!" she said, with quivering lip, 
to a lady who sfood beside her. " Grod has called for one life, and 
has given me back five for it; how, then, shoidd 1 mourn?" And 
now, when, with fear and trembling, joy seemed about to enter once 
more into that heavily-stricken home, again the dark pinions of the 
Angel of Death were beard upon the air, and he bore away the truest 
of wives, the most loving of mothers, a sacrifice to duty fulfilled 
with the noblest f orgetf ulness of self. These were the thoughts with 
which the solitary wayfarer went upon his sorrowful way, and 
crossed the threshold of the chamber of death. With light step and 
whispered words the watchers by the dead whom he relieved with- 
drew. 

Overwhelmed by the majesty of death, which met him here in. its 
most somber form, the new comer bent his head and continued long 
in silent prayer. The Princess lay on a bier in the great hall on the 
ground fl.oor, where she had so often sat surrounded by a radiant 



ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 205 

circle of guests. What of her was earthly, cased in a triple 
cerement, was covered with a ijall of black velvet, which, however, 
was almost hid from view beneath a mass of flowers and palms. 
Upon the head of the coffin stood a little, simple crucifix of perfect 
artistic workmanship. Six torches on pedestals, hung with black, 
stood round the bier, shedding but a feeble glimmer through the 
hall, scared}^ brighter, indeed, than the scanty light of the dawning 
winter day. From the wall opposite the coffin the j^outhful image 
of her husband, painted in Lappier times, looked sadly down upon 
the loved one lost. Directly opposite hung the picture which the 
Hessian Division had had painted for their much-loved leader, in 
remembrance of the glorious day of Gravelotte — a picture of battle 
and of the wild melee of slaughter in the silent chamber of death. 
He who now watched by the'coflin had played a part in the conflict 
of the memorable day which the picture Avas meant to perpetuate, 
and he knew how deeply it was interwoven with the life of tlie 
Princess who lay there iu her long last sleep. Her dear husband 
had gone to the campaign with his faithful Hessians; she knew his 
precious life to be in hourly danger; bvit her own sorrows and cares 
were not her first thought. Helpful, comforting, encouraging, she 
gave at all times to those who were left behind a brilliant example 
of cheerful and devoted courage; and when the wounded and sick 
came back from the battlefields iu ever-increasing numbers, she it 
was who everywhere took the lead with noblest self-abnegation and 
practical good sense. By the beds of the sick and dying she stood 
like a coiiiforting angel, and the love of the Hessian people twined 
the fairest of all diadems, the aureole of the heroine, round her 
princely brows. 

This grateful love, not only of those who bore arms, but of the 
citizen and artisan as well, for which these things laid the founda- 
tion, was now sincerely and unconstrainedly busy beside the bier of 
the princelj'- sleeper. Servants came, with loads of wreaths and 
bouquets, and arranged them upon the cofiin. But it was not the 
official tributes of flowers from Court and noble, from the deputa- 
tions of regiments far and near, which were laid as a mournful horn 
age at the feet of the dead mistress, that touched most deeply the 
heart of him who stood there on guard. No, the tear that stole 
down unbidden, the little trivial gift of the poor and humble who 
lived far away from Court favor, had a greater value in his ej^es. 
It was still quite early morning when, with the first glimmer of day, 
came an old peasant woman from the Odenwald. Advancing 
timidly, she laid, with a murmured prayer, a little wreath of rose- 
mary, with a couple of small white flowers, perhaps the only orna- 
ment of her poor little room at home, as a token of gratef id affection 
down upon the velvet pall. Then, thinking herself unnoticed, she 
took a rosebud from one of the splendid wreaths, and hid it under 
the old woolen dress. Who could interfere to balk the impulse of 
genuine afi ection, that longed to carry off some slight memorial with 
it? And now the little flower is lying between the leaves of the old 
Bible, and in days to come the matron, when she turns the leaves of 
the sacred volume, will tell her daughters and granddaughters of the 
noble lady, too early snatched away from her people— of her, who 
never forgot the poorest and the humblest of them all. 



206 ALICE, GRAND DUCHT^ISS OF HESSE, 

Anon appeared the bearer of one of the proudest names in Hesse, 
who was attached to the personal service of the Princess. The 
official, stalwart bearing of the courtier was loft outside, and, weep- 
ing hot unhidden tears, he lingered long by the bier. To what a 
Jofty soul, to what goodness of heart, was he saying here a bitter 
farewell. He was followed by two little girls, poorly but cleanly 
dressed, and they, too, brought their tribute of gratitude— two little 
bunches of violets. Shyly, almost frightened, and yet with childish 
curiosity, they drew slowly nearer. They thought of another winter 
day, some years ago. Hungry, chilled to the heart, they were 
sitting in an empty attic; their parents were dead, and they ate 
among strangers bread that was hard and grudgingly given, when 
that great lady appeared who was now sleeping here under the flow- 
ers. From her, whose heart was ever yearning to the orphan's cry, 
they heard again, for the first time, gentle, loving words; by her 
provision was quickly made for their more kindly treatment, and 
gratitude was rooted firmly and for ever in their young souls. 

A deputation from the Court Theater laid upon the coffin a wreath 
intertwined with pale pink streamers. Art, too, had come to mourn 
for her noblest patroness, who had been ever ready with her fine, 
cultivated intelligence to advance whatever was great and good. A 
servant brought a beautiful cross, of dark foliage with white flowers. 
It was the 2;ift of the Grand Duke's mother, anxious to testify by 
an outward sisrn her love for her dead daughter. In ever-growing 
numbers came the mourners, all visibly oppressed by the weight of 
the calamity which had fallen upon the country. Countless were 
the gifts of love, of gratitude, of respect, which, now beautiful and 
costly, now slight and simple, arched ever higher and higher the hill 
of flowers above the coffin. The ladies of the neighboring towns 
sent cushions of dark violets, with chaplets of white flowers. Two 
ladies deeply veiled brought branches of palm, from the dark green 
of which gleamed a white scroll — a poetic farewell word of deep 
feeling: — 

A hurricane, charg^ed with destruction, 

O palm, swept o'er thee. The squall 
Crash'd through thy leaves, and tore from thee 

The tenderest, sweetest of all. 

The clouds clear'd away in the distance, 

The tempest seem'd over and past, 
When forth from the firmament darted 

A lightning-bolt, fiery and fast. 

It struck thee, O noble one, struck thee I 

It erush'd thee, and now thou art gone 1 
Farewell ! To our death-day thine image 

Still, still in our hearts shall live on. 

There was a second poem, inclosed in a heart-shaped framework of 
• leaves, which gave expre.ssion to the grief of a devoted soul for the 
high-hearted lady. 

But now the hour was come for another to take the post of honor 
by the bier of the Princess." Silently and sadly the two men saluted. 
He that left took away with him a deep and elevating impression of 
the general love and respect paid by the people of Hesse to their too- 
early departed Princess, and the remembrance of that silent walch 



ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 207 

by the dead wiil remain in his memory for ever. And he who now 
entered on that honorable duty could chronicle proofs of genuine 
grief, of true reverence and love, not fewer nor less touching. Who- 
soever is thus bewept has secured the best and fairest memorial in 
the hearts of her own people for all lime — "The remembrance of 
the just abideth in blessing." 

Nothing could show better than this touching narrative, how deep 
and how widespread was the grief for the death of the Princess 
throughout the country which had so recently hailed her as its 
Sovereign. Not less deep and universal was the sorrow with which 
the sadlntelligence was received in her native land. She had long 
been dear to all hearts there; for the fame of her many admirable 
qualities as daughter, sister, wife, and molher had penetrated into 
every household. The news that her life was in peril had awakened 
the deepest sympathy; and when the anniversary of the death of the 
father she had loved so well brought the tidings of her own death, 
there were few homes on which it did not cast a shadow as for the 
loss of one that was personally dear. The journals teemed with ex- 
pressions of the national grief, each vieing with the other in paying 
affectionate tribute to the worth of one v/hose name had long iDeen 
familiar and cherished on the lips of her countrymen and country- 
women, and in assurances of sympathy to the Queen, and the loving 
hearts of her kindred, on whom this great calamity had fallen. 

It may not be out of place to insert here, as an example of these, 
what was written out of a full heart on the day of the Princess's 
death by the hand which had not yet concluded the task of tracing 
the Life of the Prince Consort, in which the Princess had all along 
taken the keenest interest. The letters printed in this volume afford 
the amplest proof of the justice of the estimate which the writer had 
formed of the gifted and devoted woman whose heart is there laid 
bare for our study and instruction. 

" Oil, sir, the good die first, 
And those whose hearts are diy as summer dust 
Burn to the socket." — Wordsivorih. 

December 14th, 1878. 

On the 14th of December, seventeen years ago, a great sorrow fell 
upon England in the death of the Prince Consort, who, if he did 
not die too soon for his own happiness and fame, died at least, as 
all now feel, too soon for England. That memoiable 14th of De 
ceniber has again come round, and again a great sorrow has fallen 
upon the country. The Princess has been taken to her rest, who 
watched and soothed the Prince Consort in the last days of his fatal 
illness, and who by her fortitude and noble devotion helped mate- 
rially, though then but a girl of seventeen, to sustain and comfort 
the widowed Queen in her measureless affliction. For the first time 
a breach— and such a breach— has been made in that family circle 
to which all who had the privilege to know it looked as the happiest 
in England — happiest, because mutual love and esteem bound all 
its members together by ties knit in childhood and never broken, 
and because the noble activity for good which had been set before 
them in the example of their parents kept their hearts fresh and 
their minds ever open. She who, while yet a girl, was called to 



208 ALICE, GRAiTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

play a vroman's part by h.er father's deathbed, has been the first to 
follow him into the Silent Land. 

No life could have opened more auspiciously than that of the sec- 
ond daughter of our Royal house.* From the first she gave prom- 
ise of beauty and of intelligence. The fine old English names of 
Alice and Maud, selected for her by her happy parents, seemed, as 
names sometimes do, to be particularly fitted to the winning, open 
character of her fait and finely-formed features, and their sound 
was one pleasant in the mouths, not only of those to whom she was 
known, but of the people, as she grew up and was seen in public by 
the eager and kindly eyes to whom the sight of the Royal children 
has always been welcome. 

When the marriage of the Princess Royal took place in 1858, the 
Princess Alice was still only a girl of fifteen; but she had already 
developed qualities of mind and heart of no ordinary kind. She 
came by degrees to till up in some measure the vacancy which had 
been created by the removal of her very gifted sister to Berlin. 
Naturally she was drawn nearer to the Prince Consort; and the in 
fluence of his character and the teachings of his affectionate wisdom 
sunk deeply into her pure and highly intellectual nature. He looked 
forward to her future with the assurance that she would prove all 
he could wish a daughter to be. She, on the other hand, loved him 
with a devotion only tempered by profound reverence for the great 
qualities which she could then, perhaps, but dimly appreciate, but 
the true extent and worth of which her own subsequent experience 
and reflection taught her more thoroughly to measure. When in later 
years she spoke of the Prince, one saw that, as Ben Jonson said of 
Shakespeare, "she honored his memory, on this side idolatry, as 
much as any. ' ' 

The teaching of that beloved father was put to the proof in those 
sad days of patient watching which preceded his death. Things 
were told at the time of the devotion and the marvelous self-control 
of the young girl, called so sternly and so suddenly to face death in 
the person of a father, on whose life that of the Queen herself seemed 
to depend, and whose counsels she knew to be of inestimable value 
to the nation. A few days after the Prince's death, she was spoken 
of by the n7nes in these noticeable words: "Of the devotion and 
strength of mind shown by the Princess Alice all through these try- 
ing scenes it isimpossible to speak too highly. Her Royal Highness 
has, indeed, felt that it was her place to be a comfort and a support 
to her mother in her aflBiction, and to her dutiful care we may per- 
haps owe it that the Queen has borne her loss with exemplary resig- 
nation, and a composure which, under so sudden and terrible a be- 
reavement, could not have been anticipated." The knowledge of 

* She is a pretty and large baby, and we tbink will be la Beaute of the fam- 
ily."— 27ie Queen to King Leopold, 9th May, 1843. 

" Our little baby, whom I am really proud of, for she is so very forward for 
her age, is to be called Alice, au old English name ; and the other names are to 
be Maud (another old English name, and the same as Matilda), and Mary, as 
she was born on Aunt Gloucester's birthday." — The same to the same, 16th 
May, 1843. 

" Our christening went off veiy brilliantly, and I wish you could have wit- 
nessed it. Nothing could have been more anstdndig. and little Alice behaved 
extremely well," — The same to the same, 6th June 1843. 



ALICE, GRAN"!) DUCHESS OF HESSE. 209 

this fact — and it was a fact — sunk deeply into people's minds. It 
was never forgotten, and from that day the name of the Princess 
Alice tias been a cherished household word to all her countrymen 
and women. 

"When, in 1863, she married the husband of her choice — a man 
whose sterling worth and manliness had satisfied even the critical 
judgment of parents jealous for the happiness of a daughler so 
justly dear — the affectionate good wishes of the Queen's subjects of 
all grades went with her to her new home. In that home, brightened 
and ennobled as it was by her presence, her love for the home and 
country of her youth burned with a stead}'' and ever-deepening 
glow. It is only those who know how strong is the mutual love by 
which the children of Queen Victoria are bound to their parents and 
to each other, who can appreciate the passionate yearning toward 
England of the Princesses whose homes have been made elsewhere. 
England and all its interests held a foremost place in the heart of 
the Princess Alice; and no one Vv'atched more closely eveiy phase of 
the changeful life of the busy land, which she loved and reverenced 
as the home of liberty and the pioneer of civilization. 

While fulfilling with exemplary devotion every duty as a wife 
and mother, the process of self-culture was never relaxed. Every 
refined taste was kept alive by fresh study, fresh practice, fresh ob- 
servation; neither Avas any effort spared to keep abreast with all that 
the best intellects of the time were adding to the stores of invention, 
of discovery, of observation, and of thought, jilach successive year 
taught her better to estimate the value of the principles in religion, 
in morals, and in politics in which she had begn trained. As her 
knowledge of the world and of man grew, she could see the wide 
range of fact upon which they were based, and their fitness as 
guides amid the perplexing experiences of human life, which, how- 
ever seemingly varied in different epochs, are ever essentially the 
same. Then the significance of the Prince Consort's habit of judg- 
ing everything hj some governing principle, and working always 
by strict method, became clear to her; and in a letter written in 
January, 1875," of which a copy is before us, the Princess writes 
with her accustomed modesty: "Living with thinking and culti- 
vated Germans, much in Papa has explained itself to me, which for- 
merly I could less understand, or did not appreciate so much as 1 
ought to have done." 

She inherited much of her father's practical good sense, and, like 
him, was ever ready to take part in any well-directed effort for rais- 
ing the condition of the toilworn and the poor. How much of their 
misery, nay, of their evil ways, was due to their wretched habita- 
tions, she, like him, felt most keenly; and she gave her sympathy 
and support to every effort for their improvement. With this view 
she translated into German some of Miss Octavia Hill's essays On 
the Homes of the London Poor, and published them with a little .pref- 
ace of her own (to which only her initial A. was affixed), in the 
hope that the principles, which had been successfully applied in 
Loudon by Miss Hill and her coadjutors, might be put into action 
in some of the German cities. No good work appealed to her in 
vain. The great exemplar of her father was always before her, and 
in the letter from which we have already quoted she speaks of his 



210 ALICE;, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 

life " spent in the highest aims, and with the noblest conception of 
duty," as a " leading star " to her own. 

That sense of duty carried her to the bedside of the Prince of 
Wales when, at the end of 1871, he was struck down at Sandring- 
ham by the fell disease under which his father had sunk. There she 
fulfilled the same priceless offices which she had ten years before dis- 
charged at Windsor Castle. It pleased Heaven to spare her a re- 
newal of the great affliction of 1861 ; and in the very days of Decem- 
ber in which we are now living the life of the much-loved brother, 
which had been well-nigh despaired of, came slowly back to requite 
lier affection, and in answer to her prayers. 

The trials of that time came, before the exhaustion had passed 
away both of body and mind which the Princess had undergone 
during the Franco-Grerman war. Separated— and for the second 
time— by war from the Prince of Hesse, who was away in the 
thickest of the perils of that campaign, she was not a woman to give 
herself up' to morbid brooding on the pangs and apprehensions 
under which, devoted wife as she was, she yet could not fail to 
suffer most acutely, for her feelings were warm, and her imagina- 
tion active beyond that of most women. In the hospital at Darm- 
stadt, crowded with the soldiers, French as well as German, who 
had come from the battlefields maimed and racked with pain, she 
was foremost with her bright intelligence, her helpful sympathy, 
and her tender hand, in soothing pain, and inspiring that seuse of 
manly gratitude which is the best of panaceas to a soldier's sick- 
bed. What she was and what she did at that time have embalmed 
her image in many a heart, and will make the tears flow thick and 
fast in many manly eyes at the thought of the death of one so 
young, so good, so gifted, and so fair. To her it was merely duty 
—duty to be done at every cost; but how much it had cost to that 
finely touched spirit and to that delicate womanly frame might be 
read, by all who could look below the surface, in the deep earnest- 
ness of her eyes and the deeper earnestness of her thoughts. The 
pain of that terrible period would not let itself be forgotten even in 
the gratitude which she felt for the providence which restored her 
beloved husband to her side, and for the realization of her father's 
cherished dream of an United Germany, which had been purchased 
l)y the valor and the sufferings of its sons. 

The Princess's fortitude - had already been severely tried in the 
war between Prussia and Austria in 1866. Hesse-Darmstadt was 
engaged upon the side of Austria, and her husband. Prince Louis, 
took the field with the troops of the Principality. At the very time 
his third daughter, the Princess Ir^ne, was born, he was with the 
army; and the Princess Alice knew he was under fire but was un- 
able to get any tidings fiom him. The victorious Prussians marched 
into Darmstadt, while the Princess, newly made a mother, was still 
confined to her room. 

Of the sad aspects of life it had been her destiny to see much — as 
daughter, as sister, and as woman. In June 1873, a terrible calam- 
ity fell upon her as a mother. A child — one especially beloved — 
climbing to an open window in a room adjoining that in which she 
was, lost its balance, and was killed almost before her eyes, as she 
rushed in terror to call him back. This, too, had to be borne. It 



ALlCli, GUA.ND DUCHESS OP HliSSE. 211 

was borne nobly, and with Christian resignation. But such shocks 
tell upon the vital powers, and some trace of what had been " under- 
gone and overcome " seemed to be visible long afterward in a per- 
ceptible bodily languor, and in a more spiritual beauty which had 
passed into her expressive face. 

The thought of this sent an anxious thrill through the hearts of 
many, when it became known that the Princess was herself seized 
by the terrible malady which had prostrated her husband and five 
ot her children, and taken from her the youngest of them all — tlie 
youngest, the brightest, the idol of her other children.* She had 
nursed them all through their time of danger, and now, spent with 
watching and anxiety as she was, the malady had laid its fatal clutch 
upon herself. She that had cared and thought for all was soon past 
all human care to save. Thus she died as she had lived, devoted, 
self-sacrificing, purified hj great pain and great love— a model 
daughter — wife — mother. 

Of the loss of such a woman to the husband to whom she was the 
all-in-all, to the children to whose love she will respond no more, to 
the mother in whose thoughts she is interwoven with the sweetest, 
the saddest, the most sacred memories, to the brothers and sisters, 
whom she loved and who loved her so truly, so tenderly, who dare 
trust himself to speak? It must be long before the grief can be as- 
suaged, under which all these must now be suffering — before the 
" Idea of her life can sweetly creep," as something hallowed, " into 
their study of imagination;" but the day will come when they will 
bless God, that theirs was a wife, a daughter, a sister, a mother, so 
good, so noble, and that, having fought her fight on earth valiantly, 
yet meekly, she has gone where there is no more sorrow, nor crying, 
and where the great mysteries of life alone find their solution. 

Theodore Martin. 



Of the many beautiful tributes in verse to the worth of the Prin- 
cess, which appeared in England, immediately after her death, none 
spoke the prevailing feeling more truly than the following : — 

IN MEMORIAM. 

Princess Alice ; died December 14, 1878. 

Death's shadow falls across the Palace door, 

His fingers trace our dear Princess's doom ; 
" She will awake no more; ah I never more !" 

And through the murky night the big bells boom. . 

But in the gray of morning hope appears, 
And treading in death's footprints entrance seeketh 

Where lonely grief is weeping bitter tears, 
And whispers low—" She being dead yet speaketh." 

* The struggle to conceal from the other children that their favorite was 
dead cost the Princess, down to the time of her own fatal seizure, such a daily 
and almost hourly effort as, in her weak staOe, she was ill able to bear. Her 
suffering during her short illness, which lasted less than a week, were borne 
with exemplary patience, and an unselfish and even cheerful spirit which 
were truly admirable. The day before she died, she expressed to Sir William 
Jenner her regret that she shoiild cause her mother so much anxiety. 



'212 ALICE, Gil AND DUCHESS OF BES8E. 

And at the voice of Hope the black clouds break, 
And through the rift there shines God's glorious light; 
• And we who mourn look up and solace take 

As those to whom comes day — dawn after night. 

" She being dead yet speaketh "—all may hear 
The message left us by her lovely life 

In deeds that live, in actions that endear, 
As Princess, sister, daughter, mother, wife I 

The flerce rude light that beats upon a throne 
For which so many royal heads are hid. 

Served but to make her worth more widely known, 
To glorify the acts of grace she did. 

A favorite sister ! She the love had earn'd 
Her brothers and her sisters for her felt, 

By her devotion which had brightest buru'd 
When with disease and threatening death she dealt. 

A darling daughter I 'Tis the Queen alone 
Can know the secret of that awful time, 

When at the father's side by her were shown 
A faith and constancy alike sublime. 

A doting mother ! What could she do more 
Than for her little one her life lay down? 

No heroine than this could higher soar — 
No grander deed a noble life could crown 1 

A perfect wife ! The heavy veil of grief 
Back from the stricken hearth we will not draw, 

Save but to say her life, alas ! too brief. 
Her husband foimd without one spot or flaw. 

Then let not grief persuade us she is dead ; 

She has but left us for a fairer shore ; 
And though her spirit heav'nward may have fled. 

Her influence remains for evermore. 

Truth. 



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A Story by a New Author, entitled 

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% TBM ^SAS)i)S LIBMAET.-'Grdinm^^g mmm. 



CHARLOTTE, EMILY, AND ANNE BRONTE'S WORKS. 

S Jane Eyre (in small type) o . , . , , 11 

896 Jane Eyre (in bold, handsome type) o . « c SG 

562 Shirley 3C 

Sit The Professor.. , IC 

329 Wuthering Heights <, . „ iu 

438 Villette , 2C 

967 The Tenant of Wildfell Hall 3C 

)98 Agnes Grey. , . . . „ . . gC 

MISS M. E. BRADDON'S WORKS» 

W Aurora Floyd ...... %■ 

09 To the Bitter End..... 20 

89 The Levels of Arden ._ 2G 

95 Dead Men's Shoes .,....,, 30 

i09 Eleanor's Victory gO 

114 Dairell Markham ,. 10 

x40 The Lady Lisle 10 

171 Hostages to Fortune..,. c. 20 

190 Henry Dunbar... ,... 20 

315 Birds of Prey 2<0 

235 An Open Verdict o. 20 

251 Lady Audley's Secret gO 

254 The Octoioon IC 

260 Charlotte's Inheritance gO 

287 Leighton Grange 10 

295 Lost for Love „ 20 

322 Dead-Sea Fruit 20 

459 The Doctor's Wife .20 

469 Rupert Godwin.... 2C 

481 Vixen 20 

482 The Cloven Foot 20 

500 Joshua Haggard's Daughter 20 

519 Weavers and Weft 10 

525 Sir Jasper's Tenant .... 20 

639 A Strange World : 20 

550 Fenton's Quest 20 

562 John Marchmont's Legacy , 20 

572 The Lady's Mile 20 

579 Strangers and Pilgrims 26 

681 Only a Woman (Edited by Miss M. E. Braddon) 20 

619 Taken at the Flood . 2C 

641 Only a Clod 20 

849 Publicans and Sinners 2iJ 

656 George Caulfield's Journey , W 

665 The Shadow in the Corner 10 

666 Bound to John Corripany; or, Robert Ainsleigh 20 

701 Barbara ; or, Splendid Mi'sery 20 

705 Put to the Test (Edited by Miss M. E. Braddon) 20 

?84 Diavola ; or, Nobody's Daughter. Part I gG 

?M Diavola; or, Nobody'sJ)§ughter. Part II. « . . ji(5 



TEE SEASIDE LIBRABT.—Ordinwry Edition. m 

MISS M. E. BRADDON'S WORKS.— Comtiimed. 

811 Dudley Carleon ...,-. .,,..!<& 

828 The Fatal Marriage 10 

837 Just as I Am; or, A Living Lie 20 

942- Asphodel „ 20 

1154 The Misletoe Bough „ 20 

1265 Mount Royal ., 20 

Um Flower and Weed , ...., 10 

!553 The Golden Calf 30 

1638 Married in Haste (Edited by Miss M. E. Braddon) 20 

RHODA BROUGHTON'S WORKS. 

186 " Good-Bye, Sweetheart " ,...,.. 10 

269 Red as a Rose is She ..,., .' ^ 

285 Cometh Up as a Flower. , , , ., 10 

403 "Not Wisely, But Too Well" 20 

458 Nancy.... 20 

526 Joan............. 20 

?63 Second Thoughts. 30 

WILKIE COLLINS' WORKS. 

10 The Woman in White 20 

14 The Dead Secret.. , , 20 

23 Man and Wife....... 20 

33 The Queen of Hearts.... 20 

38 Antonina.,.,. 20 

43 Hide-and-Seek 20 

?6 The New Magdalen ....10 

94 The Law and The Lady 20 

180 Armadale....... 2C 

191 My Lady's Money 10 

S25 The Two Destinies. 10 

250 No Name. • 20 

286 After Dark 10 

400 The Haunted Hotel..... 10 

433 A Shocking Story ...10 

487 A Rogue's Life 10 

551 The Yellow Mask ...10 

583 Fallen Leaves. 30 

664 Poor Miss Finch 20 

($75 The Moonstone .20 

®96 Jezebel's Daughter.... 20 

T13 The Captain's Last Love 10 

?21 Basil 20 

^45 The Magic Spectacles. 10 

■305 Duel in'Herne Wood 10 

928 Who Killed Zebedee? 10 

mX The Frozen Deep 16 

WO The Black Robe S| 

1164 Your Money or Your Life Ml 

H^ Heart and &3ience. A Sjory of tbe Prebwit Time. ,,....,. *0 



TEE SEASIDE LIBUABY.— Ordinary Edition, 



J. FENIMORE COOPER'S WORKS. 

222 Last of the Mohicans 20 

224 The Deerslayer ., 20 

226 The Pathfinder. 20 

229 The Pioneers. » 20 

231 The Prairie.... c 20 

233 The Pilot ._». .... 20 

585 The Water- Witch , 20 

590 The Two Admirals. ,. » 20 

615 The Bed Rover. 20 

76J Wing-and-Wing........ 20 

940 The Spy , 20 

lose The Wyandotte 20 

1257 Afloat and Ashore 20 

1262 Miles Wallingford (Sequel to "Afloat and Ashore") 20 

1569 The Headsman; or. The Abbaye des Yignerons 20 

1605 The Monikins. 20 

1661 The Heidenmauer; or. The Benedictines. A Legend of 

the Rhine ...... 20 

1691 The Crater; or, Vulcan's Peak. A Tale of the Pacific 20 

CHARLES DICKENS' WORKS. 

20 The Old Curiosity Shop... 20 

100 A Tale of Two Cities 20 

102 Hard Times IC 

118 Great Expectations 20 

187 David Copperfield 20 

200 Nicholas Nickleby 20 

213 Barnaby Rudge 20 

218 Dombey and Son 20 

239 No Thoroughfare (Charles Dickens and Wilkie Collins). ... 10 

247 Martin Chuzzlewit. 20 

272 The Cricket on the Hearth 10 

284 Oliver Twist 20 

289 A Christmas Carol 10 

297 The Haunted Man = 10 

304 Little Dorrit .'20 

308 The Chimes 10 

317 The Battle of Life 10 

325 Our Mutual Friend 20 

337 Bleak House 20 

352 Pickwick Papers 20 

359 Somebody's Luggage 10 

367 Mrs. Lirriper's Lodgings 10 

372 Lazy Tour of Two Idle Apprentices. « 10 

375 Mugby Junction 10 

403 Tom Tiddler's Ground 10 

498 The Uncommercial Traveler 20 

521 Master Humphrey's Clock 10 

(825 Sketches by Boz *20 

839 Sketches of Young Couples 10 

38? The Mudfog Papers, ^c...^^...... iM 



fk TOE SEASIDE LlBRABT.—Ordin<xrry Edition. 

"THE DUCHESS'" WORKS. 

258 Phyllis (small type) , . , 10 

589 Phyllis (large type) 20 

393 Molly Bawn 20 

445 The Baby „.... 10 

499 "Airy Fairy Lilian" 20 

771 Beauty's Daughters * o 20 

855 How Snooks Got Out of It - 10 

1010 Mrs. GeofErey 20 

1169 Faith and Unfaith , "20 

1518 Portia; or, " By Passions Rocked." 20 

1587 Monica, and A Rose Distill'd 10 

1666 Loys, Lord Berresf ord, and Other Tales 20 

ALEXANDER DUMAS' WORKS. 

144 The Twin Lieutenants 10 

151 The Russian Gipsy 10 

155 The Count of Monte-Cristo (Quadruple Number) 40 

160 The Black Tulip 10 

167 The Queen's Necklace 20 

172 The Chevalier de Maison Rouge 20 

184 The Countess de Charny 20 

188 Nanon 10 

193 Joseph Balsamo ; or, Memoirs of a Physician. 20 

194 The Conspirators 10 

198 Isabel of Bavaria 10 

201 Catherine Blum 10 

223 Beau Tancrede; or, The Marriage Verdict (small type) 10 

997 Beau Tancrede, or, The Marriage Verdict (large type) 20 

228 The Regent's Daughter 10 

244 The Three Guardsmen 20 

268 The Forty-five Guardsmen 20 

276 The Page of the Duke of Savoy 10 

278 Six Years Later; or. Taking the Bastile 20 

283 Twenty Years After 20 

298 Captain Paul . 10 

306 Three Strong Men 10 

318 Ingenue 10 

331 Adventures of a Marquis. First half 20 

331 Adventures of a Marquis. Second half 20 

342 The Mohicans of Pans. Vol. L (small type) , 10 

1565 The Mohicans of Paris. Vol. I. (large type) 20 

1565 The Mohicans of Paris. Vol. II. (large type) 20 

1965 The Mohicans of Paris. Vol. III. (large type) 20 

1565 The Mohicans of Paris. Vol. IV. (large type) 20 

344 Ascanio 10 

608 The Watclimaker 20 

616 The Two Dianas 20 

622 Andree de Taverney 2C 

664 Vicomte de Bragelonne (1st Series) 20 

%4 Yicomte de Bragelonne C2d Series) W 



TRJS SEASIDE LIBRARY. -Ordina/ry Edition. 75* 

ALEXANDER DUMAS' WORKS.— Continued. 

664 Vicomte de Bragelonne (3d Series) 20 

664 Vicomte de Bragelonne (4th Series) 30 

688 Chicot, the Jester 20 

849 Doctor Basilius 20 

J452 Salvator: Being the continuation and conclusion of "The 

Mohicans of Paris." Vol. 1 20 

(.452 Salvator: Being the continuation and conclusion of "The 

MoWcans of Paris." Vol. II 20 

11452 Salvator: Being tlie continuation and conclusion of "The 

Mohicans of Paris." Vol. Ill ; 20 

1452 Salvator: Being the continuation and conclusion of " The 

Mohicans of Paris." Vol. IV 20 

1452 Salvator: Beina- the continuation and conclusion of "The 

Mohicans of Paris." Vol. V 20 

1561 The Corsican Brothers 10 

1593 Marguerite de Valois. An Historical Romance 20 

GEORGE EBERS' WORKS. 

712 Uarda: A Romance of Ancient Egypt 20 

756 Homo Sum 10 

812 An Egyptian Princess 20 

880 The Sisters 20 

1120 The Emperor 20 

1397 The Burgomaster's Wife. A Tale of the Siege of Leyden. 20 

1594 Only a Word : 20 

GEORGE ELIOT'S WORKS. 

7 Adam Bede 20 

11 The Mill on the Floss (small type) 10 

941 The Mill on the Floss (large type) 20 

15 Romola 20 

35 Felix Holt, the Radical 20 

58' Silas Marner 10 

70 Middiemarch 20 

80 Daniel Deronda 20 

202 Mr. Gilfil's Love Story 10 

217 Sad Fortunes of Rev. Amos Barton 10 

277 Brother Jacob 10 

309 Janet's Repentance 10 

527 Impressions of Theophrastus Such - IC 

l?i76 The Spanish Gypsy: A Poem 20 

MRS. FORRESTER'S WORKS. 

395 Fair Women :... 36 

431 Diana Carew 20 

474 Viva 30 

50* Rhona v .... ...,^ ..,,....,.... 20 



nri THE SEA8TBE LIBRARY.^Ordinary Edition. 

MKS. FORRESTER'S WORKS.-Contiimed. 

638 A Young Man's Fancy o ,.... ..,. 1€ 

556 Mignon , ....,.,..0.. aC 

573 The Turn of Fortune's Wheel , 10 

600 Dolores... 9C 

620 In a Country House IC 

633 Queen Elizabeth's Garden U 

858 Roy and Viola 2C 

894 My Hero 3C 

1163 My Lord and My Lady 2C 

1471 I Ha'^e Lived and Loved 3C 

1588 From Olympus to Hades ..„.. aC 

EMILE GABORIAU'S WORKS. 

408 File No. 113 ..,.,.,,..W 

465 Monsieur Lecoq. First half 2C 

465 Monsieur Lecoq. Second half 20 

476 The Slaves of Paris. First half 20 

476 Tlie Slaves of Paris. Secona half. 2C 

490 Marriage at a Venture 10 

494 The Mystery of Orcival 20 

501 Other People's Money 20 

509 Within an Inch of His Life 20 

515 The Widow Lerouge 20 

523 The Clique of Gold • 20 

671 The Count's Secret. Parti 2C 

671 The Count's Secret. Part II 2« 

704 Captain Contanceau; or. The Volunteers of 1792 10 

741 The Downward Path ; or, A House Built on Sand ( La 

Degringolade ). Part I 20 

741 The Downward Path; or, A House Built on Sand (La 

Degringolade). Part II 20 

758 The Little Old Man of the Batignolles 10 

778 The Men of the Bureau. IC 

789 Promises of Marriage IC 

813 The 13th Hussars If 

834 A Thousand Francs Reward IC 

899 Max's Marriage ; or, The Vicomte's Choice 10 

1184 The Marquise de Brinvilliers , 2C 

KARY CECIL HAT'S WORKS. 

8 The Arundel Motto , IC 

407 The Arundel Motto (in large type). . - . • 20 

9 Old Myddelton's Money • . . 10 

427 Old Myddelton's Money (in large type). ; . ■ 20 

17 Hidden Perils • TO 

434 Hidden Perils (in large type). 2C 

•23 The Squire's Legacy IC 

6t6 Tbe Squire's Legacy (io )^p t^mi — » ■ — = . - - SC 



THE SEASIDE LIBBARY.—Ordina/ry Edition. i» 

MARY CECIL HAT'S WORKS- Continued. 

27 Victor and Vanquished 20 

29 Nora's Love Test 10 

421 Nora's Love Test (in large type) 20 

275 A Shadow on the Threshold 10 

363 Eeaping the Whirlwind 10 

384 Back to the Old Home 10 

415 A Dark Inheritance lO 

440 The Sorrow of a Secret, and Lady Carmichael's Will 10 

686 Brenda Yorke 10 

724 For Her Dear Sake 20 

852 Missing 10 

855 Dolf s Big Brother. 10 

930 In the Holidays, and The Name Cut on a Gate 10 

935 Under Life's Key, and Other Stories. 20 

972 Into the Shade, and Other Stories 20 

1011 Mv First Offer 10 

1014 Told in New England, and Other Tales 10 

1015 At the Seaside; or, A Sister's Sacrifice = 10 

1220 Dorothy's Venture '. . . 20 

1221 Among the Euins, and Other Stories 10 

1431 " A Little Aversion " 10 

1549 Pid Me Discourse 10 



THOMAS HUGHES' WORKS. 

492 Tom Brown's Schooldays at Rugby 20 

598 The Manliness of Christ , . 10 

640 Tom Brown at Oxford 20 

1041 Rugby — Tennessee 10 

CHARLES LEVER'S WORKS. 

98 Harry Lorrequer 20 

132 Jack Hinton, the Guardsman 20 

137 A Rent in a Cloud 10 

146 Charles O'Malley, the Irish Dragoon (Triple Number) 30 

152 Arthur O'Leary , 20 

168 ConCregan 20 

169 St. Patrick's Eve , 10 

174 Kate O'Donoghue 20 

257 That Boy of Norcott's 10 

296 Tom Burke of Ours. First half 20 

296 Tom Burke of Ours. Second half 20 

319 Davenport Dunn. First half. 20 

319 Davenport Dunn. Second half 20 

464 Gerald Fitzgerald , 20 

470 The Fortunes of Glencore 20 

529 Lord Kilgobbin 20 

646 Maurice Tiernay 20 

0^6 A Day's Ride,..,,,.,.,.... ,,.,,.,,.,,,,,, ,., ^ 



t THE SEASIDE LIBRARY.— Ordinary Edition. 

CHARLES LEVER'S WORKS —Continued. 

609 Barrington « 30 

633 Sir Jasper Carew, Knight. 20 

657 The Martins of Cro' Martin. Parti 20 

657 The Martins of Cro' Martin. Part II 20 

822 Tony Butler 20 

872 Luttrell of Arran. Part 1 20 

873 Luttrell of Arran. Part II 20 

951 Paul Gosslett's Confessions 10 

965 OneofThem. First half 20 

965 One of Them. Second half 20 

989 Sir Brook Fossbrooke. Part 1 20 

989 Sir Brook Fossbrooke. Part II , . 20 

1235 The Bramleighs of Bishoo's Folly 20 

1309 The Dodd Family Abroad. First half 20 

1309 The Dodd Family Abroad. Second half 30 

1342 Horace Templeton 20 

1394 Koland Cashel. First half 20 

1394 Roland Cashel. Second half 20 

1496 The Daltons; or, Three Roads in Life. First half 20 

1496 The Daltons; or, Three Roads in Life. Second half 20 



SAMUEL LOTER'S WORKS. 

33 Handy Andy 20 

66 RoryO'More 20 

128 Irish Legends 10 

158 He Would be a Gentleman o 20 

293 TomCrosbie 10 

SIR BULWER LYTTON'S WORKS. 

6 The Last Days of Pompeii , 20 

587 Zanoni 20 

689 Pilgrims of the Rhine 10 

714 Leila; or, The Siege of Grenada 10 

781 Rienzi, The Last of the Tribunes 20 

955 Eugene Aram 2f< 

979 Ernest Maltravers. 2'' 

1001 Alice; or, The Mysteries 2:! 

1064 The Caxtons 20 

1089 My Novel. First half " 20 

1089 My Novel Second half 20 

1205 Kenelm Chillingly: His Adventures and Opinions. 20 

1316 Pelham; or, The Adventures of a Gentleman 20 

1454 The Last of the Bar«us. First half 20 

1454 The Last of the Barons. Second half 20 

1529 A Stranee Story 20 

1690 What Will He Do With It? First half 20 

im What WtU He J)Q WJIh It? Second Ii&lf , , . ?*) 



THE SEASIDE LIBBABT.— -Ordinary Edition. xj 

T. B. MACAULAT'S WORKS. 

S26 The Lays of Ancient Rome, and Other Poems _. 10 

976 History of England. Parti 20 

976 History of England. Part H 20 

976 History of England. Part 111 20 

976 History of England. Part IV 20 

976 History of England. Part V 20 

976 History of England. Part VI 20 

976 History of England. Part VII 20 

976 History of England. Part VIII 20 

976 History of England. Part IX , 20 

976 History of England. Part X 20 

GEORGE MACDONALD'S WORKS. 

455 Paul Faber, Surgeon o 20 

491 SirGibbie 20 

595 The Annals of a Quiet Neighborhood 20 

606 The Seaboard Parish 20 

627 Thomas Wiugfold, Curate.., , 20 

643 The Vicar's Daughter 20 

668 David Elginbrod 20 

677 St. George and St. Michael.. , 20 

790 Alec Forbes of Howglen 20 

887 Malcolm 20 

922 Mary Marston 20 

938 Guild Court. A London Story 20 

948 The Marquis of Lossie 20 

962 Robert Falconer 20 

1375 Castle Warlock : A Homely Romance 20 

1439 Adela Cathcart 20 

1466 The Gifts of the Child Christ, and Other Tales 10 

1488 The Princess and Curdie. A Girl's Story 10 

1498 Weighed and Wanting 20 

E. MARLITT'S WORKS. 

453 The Princess of the Moor „ 20 

522 The Countess Gisela 20 

636 In the Schillingscourt 20 

866 The Second wife 20 

878 In the Counselor's House 20 

1055 The Bailiff's Maid 20 

1210 Old Mamselle's Secret 2(/ 

CAPTAIN MARRTAT'S WORKS. 

108 The Sea-King lv> 

122 The Privateersman= 10 

141 Masterman Ready 10 

147 Rattlin, the Reefer 10 

150 Mr, Midshipman Easy 10 

J§6 The King's Owq, . .5, ,,„,., .,,,,,5 ,,,,?.,,,? m ?.».".?? J16 



m THE SEASIDE LIBRAEY.—Ordimry Miimi. 

■ I I 

CAPTAIN MARRYAT'S WORKS. -Continued. 

159 The Phantom Ship IC 

163 Frank Mildmay 10 

170 Newton Forster 10 

173 Japhet in Search of a Father 20 

175 The Pacha of Many Tales 10 

176 Percival Keene 10 

185 The Little Savage 10 

192 The Three Cutters 10 

199 Settlers in Canada 10 

207 The Children of the New Forest 10 

366 Jacob Faithful .'^ 10 

273 Snarleyyow, the Dog Fiend 10 

282 Poor Jack 10 

340 Peter Simple , 20 

898 The Mission ; o*", Scenes in Africa 2fi 

1070 The Poacher 20 

U16 Valerie 20 

FLORENCE MARRYAT'S WORKS. 

' 110 The Girls of Feversham IG 

119 Petrouel. 2ft 

197 " No Intentions" , 20 

206 The Poison of Asps 10 

319 "My Own Child" 10 

805 Her Lord and Master 10 

323 A Lucky Disappointment 10 

426 Written in Fire 20 

533 Ange , 20 

635 A Harvest of Wild Oats 20 

703 The Root of All Evil 20 

742 A Star and a Heart 10 

784 Out of His Reckoning 10 

820 Tlie Fair-Haired Alda , 20 

897 Love's Conflict 20 

1038 With Cupid's Eyes 20 

1067 A Little Stepson 10 

1086 My Sister tlie Actress 20 

1349 Phyllida. A Life Drama 20 

1654 Facing the Footlights , 20 

MISS MULOCKS WORKS. 

2 John Halifax, Gentleman Ki 

456 John Halifax, Gentleman (large type) 20 

77 Mistress and Maid 1(J 

81 Christian's Mistalie 10 

82 My Mother and I 10 

88 The Two Marriages 10 

91 The Woman's Kingdom 2(i 

101 ANobleLife 10 

108 A Br ave Lady. 3(1 



TEE 8E ASIDE LIBRARY. -Ordinary Edition. xm 

<■■ ■' - — ■ ■■ ' ■' ■■■■■■ t i^-^ 

MISS MULOCK'S WORKS.— Continued. 

121 A Life for a Life 20 

130 Sermons Out of Church 10 

135 Agatha's Husband 20 

142 The Head of the Family 20 

327 Hannah 10 

240 The Laurel Bush 10 

291 Olive 20 

294 TlieOgilvies 20 

314 Nothing New 10 

320 A Hero 10 

330 A Low Marriage ? 10 

457 The Last of the Ruthvens, and The Self -Seer 10 

480 Avillion; or, The Happy Isles 10 

626 Young Mrs. Jardine 10 

628 Motherless (Translated by MissMulock) 10 

752 The Italian's Daugliter 10 

773 The Two Homes 10 

804 A Bride's Tragedy 10 

824 A Legacy 20 

850 The Half Caste 10 

886 Miss Letty's Experiences 10 

945 Studies from Life 10 

964 His Little Mother, aud Other Tales 10 

978 A Woman's Thoughts About Women 10 

1029 Twenty Years Ago. A Book for Girls. (Edited by Miss 

Mulock) 10 

1177 An Only Sist«r, Madame Guizot de Witt. (Edited by Miss 

Mulock) 10 

1261 Plain-Speaking 10 



MRS. OLIPHANT'S WORKS. 

136 Katie Stewart 10 

210 Young Musgrave 20 

391 The Primrose Path 20 

452 An Odd Couple 10 

475 Heart and Cross 10 

488 A Beleasiuered City 10 

497 For Love and Life 20 

511 Squire Arden 20 

542 Tlie Story of Valentine and His Brother 20 

596 Caleb Field 10 

651 MadonnaMary » 20 

665 The Fugitives - 10 

680 The Greatest Heiress in England 20 

706 Earthbound - „ 10 

775 The Queen (illustrated) - 10 

785 Orphans 10 

802 Phoebe; Junior. A Last Chronicle of Carlingford 20 

875 No. 3 Grove Road 10 



MUNRO'S PUBLICATIONS. 



The Seaside Library 



[continued from third page op cover. 



ai5 Not Like Other Girls. By Rosa Nou- 

ehette Carey 15 

216 Foul Play. By Charles Reade and 

Diou Boncicaulr 15 

217 The Man She Cared For. By F. W. 

Robinson 15 

218 Agnes Sorel. By G. P. R. James. ... 15 

219 Lady Clare ; or, The Master of the 

Forgres. By Georges Oliuet 10 

220 Which Loved Him Best? By Bertlia 

M. Clav, autlior of " Dora Tlioriie " 10 

221 Coiiiin' Thro' tlie Rye. By Helen B. 

Matliers 15 

222 Tlie Sun-Maid. By Miss Grant 15 

223 A Sailor's Sweetheart. By W. Clark 

Russell 15 

224 The Arundel Motto. Mary Cecil Hay 35 

225 The Giant's Robe. ByF.Anstej' 15 

226 Friendship. By " Ouida " 20 

227 Nancy. By Rlioda Broughtou 15 

228 Princess Napraxine. By"Onida".. 20 

229 Maid, Wife, or Widow? By Mrs. 

Alexander 10 

230 Dorothy Forster. By Walter Besauc. 15 

231 Grififith Gaunt. By Charles Reade. . 15 

232 Love and Mouey; or, A Perilous Se- 

cret. By Charles Reade 10 

233 "I Say No;" or, the Love-Letter An- 

swered. Wilkie Ciillins 15 

234 Barbara; or, Splendid Misery. Miss 

M. E. Braddon '. 15 

235 "It is Never Too Late to Mend." 

A Blatter-of-Fact Romance. Bj'' 
Cliarles Reade 20 

236 Which Shall It Be? By Mrs. Alex- 

ander 20 

237 Repented at Leisure. By Bertha M. 

Clay, Author of " Dora Thorne".. 15 

238 Pascarel. By "Ouida " 20 

239 Signa. By "Ouida" 20 

240 Called Back. By Hugh Conway. .. . 10 

241 The Babys Grandmother. By L. B. 

Waif drd 10 

242 The Two Orphans. By D'Ennery . . . . K) 

243 Tom Burke of "Ours." First half. 

By Charles Lever 20 

243 Tom Burke of " Ours." Second half. 

By Charles Lever 20 

244 A Great Mistake. By the author of 

"His Wedded Wife" 20 

245 Miss Tommy. By Miss Mulock 10 

246 A Fatal Dower. By the author of 

"His Wedded Wife" 10 

247 The Armom-er's Prentices. B3' Char- 

lotte M. Yonge 10 

248 The House on the Marsh. F. Warden 10 



By 



249 '■ Prince Charlie's Daughter." 

the author of " Dora Tliorne ' 

250 Sunshine and Roses; or, Diana's 

Discipline. By the author of " Dora 



Thorue 

251 The Daughter of the Stai-s, and other 

tales. By Hugh Conway 

252 A Sinless Secret. By " Rita " 

2.53 The Amazon By Carl Vosmaer 

254 The Wife's Secret, and Fair liut False. 

By the Author of " Dora Thorne " 

255 The Mystery. By Blrs. Henry Wood.. 15 

256 Mr. Smith : A Part of His Life. By 

L. B. Walford 16 

257 Beyond Recall. Bj- Adeline Sergeant 10 

258 Cousins. By L. B. W^alford 20 

259 The Bride of Monte-Cristo. A Sequel 

to " The Count of Monce-Cristo," 
By Alexander Dumas 10 

260 Proper Pi-ide. By B. M. Croker 10 

261 A Fair Maid. By F. W. Robinson. . . . 20 

262 The Count of Monte-Cristo. Part L 

By Alexander Dumas SO 

262 The Count of Monte Cristo. Part H. 

By Alexander Dumas 20 

263 Anishmaelite. By Miss M. E. Braddon 15 

264 PitJdouche. A French Detective. By 

FortunS Dn Boisgob^y 10 

265 Judith Shakespeare: Her Love Af- 

fairs and Other Adventures. By 
William Black .15 

266 The Water-Babies. A Faiiy Tale for 

a Land-Baby. By the Rev. Charles 
Kingsley 10 

267 Laurel Vane; or. The Girls' Con- 

spiracy. By Blrs. Alex. McVeigh 
Miller gO 

268 Lady Gay's Pride; or, The Miser's 

Treasure. By Mrs. Alex. McVeigh 
Miller 20 

269 Lancaster's Choice. By Mrs. Alex. 

McVeigh Miller 20 

270 The Wandering Jew. PartL By Eu- 

gene Sue 20 

270 The Wandering Jew. Part 11. By 

Eugene Sue 20 

271 The Mysteries of Paris. Part I. By 

Eugene Sue 20 

271 The Blysteries of Paris. Part II. By 

Eugene Sue 20 

272 The Little Savage. Captain Marryat 10 

273 Love and Mirage ; or, The Waiting on 

an Island. An Out-of-Door Ro- 
mance 10 

274 Alice, Grand Duchess of Hesse, Prin- 
cess of Great Britain and Ireland. 



Biographical Sketch and Letters. . . 10 

The above books are for sale b.v all newsdealers, or will be sent to any address, postage pre 

paiil, b.v the publisher, on receipt of 12 cents forsingle numbers, IT cents fo'r special numbers, aTid 

Jo cents for double muubers. Forties wishing the Pocket Edit i: •not 'I'HE.SK.ismK Library must ha 

cai-eful to mention the Pocket F.dition. otherwise the Ordinary Edition w-ill be sent. Address, 

(GEORGE iUIIMiO, I'lililiNliev, 

l». <). Ilox 3751. 17 to '.57 Vandewatev Street, New York. 



H 153 79 










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